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Found 18 results

  1. Fishmeister

    Waterman 55 Safe Ink Selection

    New to the forum and relatively new to fountain pen collecting. I have a particular interest in the more vintage pens and have just purchased a Waterman 55. A lot of threads and websites mention safe inks to use in these older lever filler pens, but I'd just like confirmation on safe inks for this particular hard rubber material pen. My current ink of choice is Aurora Black, which I believe is fine to use, but would I be better off to use Waterman or Sheaffer for example? Additionally, I will only be using black ink for this pen.
  2. tonybelding

    Rubber-Friendly Ink

    I recently pulled a couple of my Edison bulb-fillers out of storage. One had traces of ink dried in it, as I must have neglected to flush it before putting it away. The other looked clean. Both of them had the rubber bulbs partially melted. The conventional wisdom says rubber bulbs and sacs (as in lever-fillers, touchdown-fillers, etc.) should last for many years, perhaps decades. I've been having a lot of failures with them, and I've heard about friends having problems with them too. I've had restored vintage pens that failed too, much sooner than I would have expected. My first impulse
  3. ColdDeadHand

    Permanent Ink For Vintage Pens?

    I have a bit of a hangup for permanent inks, and this is often at odds with my passion for vintage pens. Do you think I'm going to take apart a Parker Vacumatic, clean it, replace the diaphragm, admire the clarity of the barrel that has survived for 70 or 80 years, and then fill it with Heart of Darkness? No. That is not happening. I love HoD, but that goes into modern pens that I don't really give a darn about. Inks with no water resistance are uninteresting to me. Yes, I have a bottle of Waterman Serenity Blue. It's used for dip tests after I refurbish a pen, but there is no way I
  4. enchiridion

    Parker Reflexx

    last night when sorting my pens I came across one of those buys that never made it into the daily use set. It is a Parker Reflex from about 2000. the rubber got sticky and gave away. I dipped it in talcon powder, but I guess it is a proces that cannot be stopped. Anybody the same problem?
  5. I bought it on one of my ebay trawls (I think). I have no idea if it has a model number. It certainly feels nicer than the hard triangular section of the Safari and its clones. It is the nearest thing I have seen to a clone of a Lamy Nexx. I believe it came in a 0.5mm nib or a 0.38mm nib that is hooded.
  6. At my 50th birthday, my lovely Wife gifted me a Montblanc Starwalker Rubber Ballpoint similar to this: Now I've been looking for a mechanical pencil in the same design (I like the girth and the heavy weight), but without luck, so therefore these questions: Did Montblanc ever produce this model as a Mechanical Pencil?If so: Is the design similar to the ballpoint (no cap) or similar to the fineliner (removable cap)?Thank you.
  7. The Perfect Pencil has everything you need in order to write or sketch and now Graf Von Faber-Castell surprises with two brand new editions. This pocket pencils made of Californian Cedar wood feature a replaceable eraser under the cap and a platinum-plated extender with built-in sharpener. Now the brand launches two new editions: The Magnum edition incorporates a magnum size with an extra thick and soft 4B lead. While the Blue Guilloche features a brand new coloured pencil. For further information click here, or do not hesitate to contact us via info@iguanasell.com
  8. Hello FPN! I bought my first fountain pen a few months ago due to an intriguing review I saw on this forum. The pen is called the Gama Forever and is made from ebonite. I enjoy using this pen very much, and have had no functional issues with it. However, I find that that my fingers become sticky when using this pen even for a short while. To be more specific, the section of the pen seems to leave a rubbery residue on my thumb and index fingers. I have been using this pen for quite a while now, and this issue has not resolved itself. My fingers do not sweat very much, although they are
  9. tonybelding

    Bulb-Filler Experiment

    Because of all the questions around some inks possibly causing rubber sacs to fail prematurely, I have decided to conduct a series of methodical tests using my bulb-filler pens. Because these pens use rubber bulbs, but the bulbs are quite easy and inexpensive for me to replace as needed, they're ideal for testing inks that might possibly be "dangerous" to latex rubber. The methodology I've decided on is. . . Ink one pen each month, and use it continually with the chosen ink for three months. At the end of that time, check the bulb carefully for evidence of decay. Because I have three b
  10. Lanep

    Fountain Pen Smell

    I have a Youth fountain pen (I think it's a Chinese knock off of a Parker pen). Anyway, I use it because it has sentimental value, but lately, and by lately I mean in the past year or so, I've always sensed a strange smell when writing with it. I wouldn't describe it as a rubber smell, but similar to it. It's that intense that I can smell it while writing (so my head is at least 20cm away from the pen). I think that the ink is smelly as well, but I don't know if it's from the rubber ink container in the pen, or something else. Does anyone have any remedies for this or should I stop using thi
  11. ARVA

    Almost Cracked Sac

    Hi, I have an old Parker squeeze converter which at first sight seems to work well, holds a lot of ink and is not leaking. However when I squeeze it the rubber has some cracks in one part , the rubber is not yet cracked completely but sooner or later it will. I can still use it and it also feels flexible. I was thinking if there is any preventing work or something. Can I melt the rubber with the hot red point of a needle so the crack is no longer spreading ? Or can I glue it somehow? Thank you!
  12. Hi, Just seen this pen on an auction site, anyone know what it is?
  13. Hi, I've wanted for a long time to find a tool designed to safely open seized up fountain pens. Something similar to the rubber/handle device used to open jam jar lids? I end up breaking about 20% of pens trying to open them with fingers then leather wadded pliers, then god knows.. getting more and more reckless as my frustration builds! Hot water bath to soften the shellac seems to work only very rarely.. So if there is a tool out there for the job i'd really appreciate and advice on where to buy. Many thanks, Tom
  14. I was given some old Tryphon pen products and the instructions said that the scratch remover can be used to get rid of hard rubber oxydation. I tried it on a spot of hard rubber in a filligree overlay on a hard rubber pen. The problem? The only area that seems to go back to black is the center spot inside the filligree detail but not all the way to the edges. So, I have a spot of nice black surrounded by still oxydized hard leather. I tried Q-tips to get up to the edges but that didn't help. Suggestions?
  15. Is there anything that can be done to hard rubber to protect it from more wear than it has already experienced but won't harm the rubber over time? I just happened to think of this while having difficulty making out a couple areas of imprint on the butt of a hard rubber pen. I am very careful with my pens and it is not like I will be rubbing the area but would like to see if something can be done to protect it.
  16. Hello, I tried looking around for a related topic, but couldn't find one that answered my question...If I store a vintage pen, after I clean it thoroughly of course, and it has a rubber sac (Eversharp Skyline, Esterbrook J etc) or a rubber diaphragm (Parker Vacumatic, "51" Vac), is there any danger that the rubber will ossify and crumble after a period of time spent in storage? Thank you. Cheers, Dragos
  17. Just to say I cleaned my Summit and Conway Stewart Vintage pens with Autoglym Rubber bumper (fender to you Yanks ) cleaner/restorer. They came up a treat (though slightly slippery to begin with, they're harder to grip with no muck and a polished surface) Nice shine, though not too shinny and they are a slightly deeper black colour now as well. Seems like a good choice. Oh and it smells better than rubber as well. What cleaner/restorers have others had success with?
  18. I'm gradually developing a strong distaste toward any pen with a rubber sac. I've just had too many problems with them. I'm beginning to understand why a "sac-less" design was such a big selling point back in the 1930s and 1940s. I've seen "new old stock" pens that came with rubber sacs 40+ years old and worked Just Fine. I've also, unfortunately, seen brand new rubber sacs that failed after a relatively short period of light usage. I've got a suspicion that some inks (i.e. some more than others) cause rubber to age and deteriorate. I've got a suspicion that some sacs available today

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