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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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I have seven Sailor pens. I love using them. I have three with steel nibs: a fude ProFit Junior +10 a MF 1911 Compass. a gold plated F Sailor Shikiori Tsukuyo no Minamo Shimoyo I have three with a 14K gold nib: a black lacquer F Sailor ProFit. a MF Sailor Shikiori Fairy Tale Orihime (Vega) a black lacquer M Sailor Pro Gear Slim I also have a 21K gold nib model the EF Wicked Witch of the West 1911L I’ve written nine journals with them since last year alone, so I use them a lot. The problem is with the 14K black Sailor ProFit model. No matter how much I use pen flush or break the nib in through use, it gouges and scrapes the paper surface. It picks up paper fibers and becomes a brush all the time. I've been told that Sailor gold nib pens write “buttery”, but they are patterned after dip pens, so they make a scritchy sound on paper. Since I do art with dip pens, I love this tactile feedback. My 21K EF Witch writes smoothly as does my gold plated F Shimoyo. They’re a joy to write with, but not the ProFit. It even writes thinner than the EF. What can I do to fix this on my end? Is this a common difference between 14K nibs and 21K ones? How do I send this in to Sailor to get the nib repaired or replaced? Thanks for your friendly suggestions.
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Polishing products and their compatibility with pen materials
The Honey Batcher posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Hi Everyone Being new in the world of fountain pens and restoration of them, I am not sure how to approach polishing. I know some are in favor of polishing others are not. If you decided to polish what products are best for which material? · Harden rubber · Casein · Bakelite · Celluloid · Thermoplastics · Metal parts · … Assuming that you always start with a less critical area to see how things turn out in the specific case. What products do you recommend for the different materials? I am not looking for long detailed answers. More something simple and short like below. · Harden rubber: XXX, YYY and ZZZ · Casein: XXX and never ZZZ · Bakelite: BBB and YYY · Celluloid: No idea · Thermoplastics: XXX · Metal parts: AAA Let me know if a post about this already exists. I am looking forward to read your answers. Thanks. -
Hello! I have this Pelikan Toledo, presumably from the 80s. as you can see from the pictures attached, the piston mechanism is partially disassembled. When I assemble it, the back knob doesn’t contract fully. If am I right, the only way to get it right is remove the thread black part attached to the barrel, then to assemble the piston mechanism outside the barrel (considering get the fully contactin of the back knob) and then insert the fully assembled mechanism into the barrel. Is that correct? If yes… what the right way to do it? Are that thread part friction fitted into the barrel or thread into it? Left or right thread? Should I apply dry heat and or DW40? if it is friction fit… should I apply pressure from the section extreme using a wood bar o apply pull tracción from the back thread part? Piston contracted or extended? thanks a lot!!!
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Hopefully this will be of interest for those wanting to "repair" by replacement the unrepairable components of vintage pens. This Conway Stewart from around 1950 has cross-linked changes to the polymer causing severe distortions and embritlement (see photograph). The lever-fill mechanism was completely unusable depite all the parts still being inside the barrel. I have had a basic level 3D printer for a couple of moths now and I have been impressed with the fine details that can be generated when the slower speeds and layer heights are used rather than the standard settings. This encouraged me to measure the complicated elements and print test parts to see if the cap threads and the jewel threads would be sufficiently accurate to work. The cap has a 4-start thread that secures it to the barrel with a simple twist. This has a lead of 2.5 mm per turn and, with 4-starts, the effective pitch is 2.5/4 = 0.625 mm. I then used the standard thread forms for ISO metric or Unified to prepare small test parts 1/2" or 12 mm long. The first attempt was far too tight so I kept the same thread form but put the 4 helical cuts deeper into the cap to give a greater than standard clearance. It only took this second test part to get a free running thread that was still very secure when tight. The barrel needs to hold a "J" shaped spring for the filler and has a fine groove to retain a 2-coil helical spring that positions the gold-plated lever in its socket. I printed the barrel first and persuaded the original springs to seat correctly in the new part. This let me fit an ink-sac and get writing. The cap required the female thread to be printed in the same way and had a simple single thread for the cap jewel. It seemed to be close to the dimensions for M4 x0.7p but again required the hole to have a more generous clearance than the metal standard. This cap jewel tightened well using some silicone gloves for grip and holds the gold-plated clip securely. The surface finish shows a texture which is a bit like a silky fabric. I decided to leave this texture rather than trying to sand smooth and polish to a finish. I will need to experiment with the best method to add a decorative gold-plated capring and possibly a printed securing band rather than a groove. The project was worthwhile, if only for the learning and process familiarisation.
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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I have a Kaweco Elite with tool holes for a wrench for nib removal. I haven't had occasion to need this type of tool yet so I don't have any to try. Is anyone familiar with which wrench may fit. I know there are a few available out there for other pens
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I have a desk pen with a badly aligned nib and feed. It has a flat nib under that good. Is there any good way to do this externally or will I need to remove the sac and knock it out? The pen writes well but the alignment makes it all sorts of tricky as the pen needs to be rolled slightly from center. My brain hurts to use it! Pictures say a lot I'd appreciate any advice
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Any tips on removing this nib to swap it to this gold nib? I'm starting with dry heat, however, perhaps there is a better way!
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Hello everyone! I recently acquired my first vintage fountain pen from a family friend. After some research, I found it was a Parker Challenger Deluxe and needed a new sac. I've managed to replace the sac, however upon reinserting the nib section into the barrel, I found it did not fit in all the way. The cap can still screw on, and the filling mechanism seems to be working fine (using water to test!), however I cannot get the section to go down all the way. It seems very stuck, and even after heating did not budge upwards or downwards. Any advice on how to get it unstuck would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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I have a Parker Vacumatic from 1944. The cap jewel is metal (stainless maybe) The clip is lose but I can't get the jewel to come out. Is it possible this isn't the original cap jewel? I see references to a parker 51 with a stainless cap jewel. Is this jewel supposed to be black and perhaps that's why it's so difficult to get out? I have seeped some of the Pensbury PENatrate potion in the space between the clip and the jewel and will let that seep for a bit. Then Ill retry some heat and see if it helps.
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I've been at a few vacumatics lately. Some have been as easy as can be. I have this one however that has been quite the battle. I can not for the life of me get the nib section to thread out. In fact I gave up and soaked the back end in naptha so I could get the pump out which was its own battle. I did get it out and cleaned up when what happens next? I since out the barrel and in doing so the breather tube has decided to drop out. Or it's broken off but I think it's just slid out. Next step is to tap out the nib and feed and get that back together. If it isn't broken off then I suspect that's my only choice. Second question though. In the picture of the pump (which is a straightline as I understand it) I think that the flat price is intended to be right through to the other side so it shows on both sides. Can anyone correct me on that? I'll be pleased once I have this one back together and working. Thanks everyone for your help on this and the other questions I have had on these vacumatics In then pictures below you won't see the breather. It's soaking in pen flush at the moment
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Well I struggled for a while with this. I tried all the advice I could find here. Heat cycles Took out the old sac Soaked over night Soaked overnight with pen cleaner Soaked over night with rapido-eze Naptha on the threads Patience patience patience I also use The Inky Nib collet extractor. Alas the pump finally broke unfortunately. I don't think it was my fault on the end but who knows. More experience will help as I try and restore others. Is this a common problem? I do knok that it is possible to drill it out however I think that's above my comfort level at the moment. Any advice? I have attached a picture of the result
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I have a Parker 105 and it's clogged up tight. I have had it in rapido-eze for a bit but no dice. I feel like something is in the converter end that shouldn't be. Is it possible somebody has one that they can take a picture of where the converter goes in so I can compare it to what I'm looking at. I had thought it took a regular Parker converter but mine looks different. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks I've attached a picture of what I'm looking at The cartridge doesn't seat well not do I see anything that would pierce it. I'm wondering If it used a different ink cartridge or?
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Vintage Norma 4 colour mechanical pencil
MartinTenbones posted a topic in It Writes, But It Is Not A Fountain Pen ....
I have a Norma 4 colour mechanical pencil however it seems that the blue is broken and won't slide up or down. I suspect the pencil rotates as well to extend lead but it seems jammed. Has anyone taken one apart before? Thanks for any help and direction
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Well this is a new one for me. I've cleaned and repaired countless pens now. I had a Waterman Stalwart with a very stubborn section I needed to remove to change the sac. I was doing what I normally do. Soak, heat, soak, and also some ultrasonic cleaning to get the section out. I have been trying for days off and on. This morning I put the pen in the ultrasonic and when I took it out it was very hot. Just the pen not the water. It blistered the pen on the opposite side from the lever. This area is above the waterline as I was only just above the nib section with water. I have no explanation as to why. All the other times I had cycled it it hadn't heated up. Any thoughts?
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Hello, I don't know if anyone have this problem with SCRIBO piston, I got mine only roughly 4-5 months, however the piston feel a bit sluggish and not as smooth as I wanted to be; I want lubricate the piston but I'm not sure if I should try and with what tool. If anyone had tried, how did you do it and with what tool?
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I've got a Meisterstuck 642 with a broken cork seal on my restoration table. I saw somewhere that people have replaced these seals with silicone o-rings. Any idea what size seals to use for this or where one can find appropriate cork replacement seals? For reference the diameter of the piston looks like its about 5mm and the nut that holds it is about 8.5 mm so I would expect the seal to be about 9mm. All advice is welcomed.
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Hello y'all, I've gone and done it. I cracked the section on my 221P. It's cracked in multiple places and unless I try to fix it with super glue and the entire grit of micro mesh, it seems unrepairable. The plastic seems somewhat brittle. Now I'm looking for parts. I looked on eBay to no avail. Does anyone know where I can find a section for the 221P? Any help will be appreciated. Happy New Year, Ross
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I would love some advice on this 1936 gold Swan. It needs a new sac, but I cannot work out where it comes apart. I am maybe being a bit too gentle because I don't want to damage it! I can get the nib out, but the feed appears to be stuck fast. It looks like the 'gold shell' is likely in several pieces, but I was hoping someone on here would be able to tell me where it opens. The nib appears to be cracked, I will attempt to locate a replacement sometime in the future. Any info on the model ID greatly appreciated too. Thank you.
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Sheaffer Lifetime Nib/Feed (Vac) - Will NOT go in (re-insert)...
Emc^2 posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
Hi all, I am finishing my repair of a Balance Vac, and I am trying to set the nib and feed, and they will not seat in the section far enough in! I have never had this problem before. I have attempted to reseat it about 5 times. Every time I find myself exerting more force than I believe is a proper amount and so I back off, say a few chosen words, scratch my head, knock it back out, and figure out what the hell is wrong. I have looked inside the section, I do not see any old nib edge marks to see where it was seated before (this is my fault for not doing this when I took it apart). I have rotated where I attempt to place the nib and feed when inserting it...the only other thing I can THINK of is to set the section in the freezer or fridge (for a brief few minutes) to get it to shrink and therefore expand the size of the section hole, but that is just pure speculation as I try to figure out how to get this darn thing back in. It is the nib and feed that came/original with the pen, so it's not that I am trying to replace these parts. I am out of ideas. Any suggestions? -
Does anyone know (or have any) where I can buy old bent/repairable nibs? I have already checked the major websites, so I’m looking for those unadvertised private websites of pen folks that would have them. I need to practice a repair technique, the more the better.
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I’m wondering if M800 barrels are interchangeable between the old/early West German models (i.e., from late 1980s and early 1990s) and newer/contemporary models. I think that the evolution of M800 didn’t necessarily affect its dimensions over the years but I’d like to check. Namely, my old W. German M800 has some issues with its barrel and I wanted to change it but I keep finding only the newer barrels available. Any advice is helpful. Thanks.
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