Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'repair'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • FPN Community
    • FPN News
    • Introductions
    • Clubs, Meetings and Events
    • Pay It Forward, Loaner Programs & Group Buys
  • The Market Place
    • The Mall
    • Market Watch
    • Classifieds (Link)
    • Historical Sales Forums
  • Writing Instruments
    • Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
    • Fountain Pen Reviews
    • Of Nibs & Tines
    • It Writes, But It Is Not A Fountain Pen ....
    • Pen History
    • Repair Q&A
  • Brand Focus
    • Cross
    • Esterbrook
    • Lamy
    • Mabie Todd Research/Special Interest Forum/Group
    • Montblanc
    • Parker
    • Pelikan
    • Sheaffer
    • TWSBI
    • Wahl-Eversharp
    • Waterman
  • Regional Focus
    • China, Korea and Others (Far East, Asia)
    • Great Britain & Ireland - Europe
    • India & Subcontinent (Asia)
    • Italy - Europe
    • Japan - Asia
    • USA - North America
    • Other Brands - Europe
  • Inks, Inc.
    • Inky Thoughts
    • Ink Reviews
    • Ink Comparisons
    • Co-Razy-Views
    • Th-INKing Outside the Bottle
    • Inky Recipes
  • Paper, and Pen Accessories
    • Paper and Pen Paraphernalia
    • Paper & Pen Paraphernalia Reviews and Articles
  • Creative Expressions
    • Pen Turning and Making
    • Pictures & Pen Photography
    • The Write Stuff
    • Handwriting & Handwriting Improvement
    • Calligraphy Discussions
    • Pointed Pen Calligraphy
    • Broad (or Edged) Pen Calligraphy

Blogs

  • FPN Board Talk
  • Incoherent Ramblings from Murphy Towers
  • The Blogg of Me
  • FPN Admin Column
  • Rules, Guidelines, FAQs, Guides
  • Musings on matters pen
  • Marketing & Sales
  • Iguana Sell Pens Blog
  • Newton Pens' Blog
  • Peyton Street Pens Blog
  • holygrail's Blog
  • A Gift For Words
  • I Don't Have a Name; So This Will Do
  • Karas Kustoms' Blog
  • Debbie Ohi's Inky Journal
  • Sus Minervam docet
  • Crud!

Product Groups

  • FPN Pens
  • FPN Inks
  • FPN Donations
  • Premium/Trading/Retailer Accounts

Categories

  • Fonts
  • Tools & Software
  • Rules for Notepads & Paper

Categories

  • Gold, Iridium, Rhodium, Platinum - Pens & Pencils
  • Ruby - Pens & Pencils
  • Emerald - Pens & Pencils
  • Diamond - Pens & Pencils
  • Inks
    • Inks - Gold, Iridium, Rhodium, Platinum
    • Inks - Ruby
    • Inks - Emerald
    • Inks - Diamond
  • Paper & Pen Paraphernalia
    • Paper & Pen Paraphernalia - Gold, Iridium, Rhodium, Platinum
    • Paper & Pen Paraphernalia - Ruby
    • Paper & Pen Paraphernalia - Emerald
    • Paper & Pen Paraphernalia - Diamond
  • Pen Parts & Tools
  • Various Items For Sale
  • Charity Auctions

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

  1. Hi Friends I recently purchased an interesting telescopic (3 pieces) propelling pencil with what is known as "magic action". The "magic" consists on the tip getting out when the pencil is extended and it is actually not working and I was curious to open the pencil to explore the mechanism and eventually fix it. If I manually push the tip in and out it moves freely, rotating the tip expels or retracts the led tip properly, that part works. Problem is: i did not manage to find a way to open the pencil. For sure it cannot screw from to front part (did try hard). The bigger part rotates free
  2. JamesEdward

    Front section stuck. Rubber cement?

    Dear all, I got a 30s Parker Duofold Canada from a second-hand seller the other day. It seems someone has glued the front section in place. The feed was clogged with what I can only describe as malleable white-ish school eraser material. This is my pointer to assume it is rubber cement, although I have never seen or used the stuff. I was able to remove it with a toothpick. If a previous owner used this same material to glue the front section in place (some appears to be visible between the tiny space between barrel and front section) how would you recommend tryi
  3. I got 3 Laban Pens & out of those 2 have very bad nibs . I wrote to them and it has been around 6 months & I haven't heard back from you. How has been your experience with them?
  4. Hi everyone - I've got a Montblanc Starwalker that's had the threads on the cap strip completely twice, with very little use. I sent it back for repair once, and am looking for a more reliable solution. The second time it happened, the person at the Montblanc store very smugly recommended that I don't pull the cap off and don't tighten it too much. Believe me, as much as this pen cost, I've been as careful as I can with it and the cheap plastic threads in the cap fail after a couple of months of normal daily use. Can anyone recommend what I should do?
  5. Hello everyone, apperciate your kindness and input here. I bought two Aurora Internazionale on my trip to Japan a while ago, but I think due to all kinds of accidents, and the bank I kept them in got water damage in the vault. I observed some wear and scratches created by shipments. (Which is like a small amount on the and the end of the pen) So I would like to send my pens through Kenro to Aurora, I asked Kenro if Aurora could offer a repolishing of the pen, and they said yes. But I do not know if Aurora is willing to do an overhaul for the two Internazionale since they are sitt
  6. Trinh Nguyen

    SCRIBO FEEL piston disassemble.

    Hello, I don't know if anyone have this problem with SCRIBO piston, I got mine only roughly 4-5 months, however the piston feel a bit sluggish and not as smooth as I wanted to be; I want lubricate the piston but I'm not sure if I should try and with what tool. If anyone had tried, how did you do it and with what tool?
  7. Hello everyone, I had asked this question on the Italy forum, but did not get any reply, so hopefully someone will be able to help here. I just bout this three (NoS) Omas Deskpens (Two 556T and one 583T), the pistons are extremely stiff and not moving. I need help on how to disassemble the pistons to grease them. Thank you in advance. Best regards, Northstar
  8. ADEMiller

    Conklin Loose Clip

    Hey everyone! I got this Conklin (looks a lot like an Endura but isn't marked as such?) from an antique store for a really good deal-or so I thought! I was so excited I didn't notice the very loose clip. As you can see from the pictures, it looks like someone forced it one way and a small piece of the hard rubber gave way. Remarkably no cracks, but the clip does move to that one side (but not the other). Is there anything to be done to stabilize the clip? Thanks, Alexander
  9. Hi my hobby friends! A few months ago I finished the restoration of a Sheaffer Balance Oversize in black and pearl like this one. After resacking, full cleaning and so on I filled it with ink (Edelstain Pelikan Garnet and Pelikan 4001 black&Blue in other occasion). When I opened the cap at the next day I noticed that the top of the section was fulled of wet ink. It's important to say that after filled the pen, I drop out a few drops of inks and clean the excess of ink in the feed, as always do. This problem is consistent: that happened a few times already. Other
  10. FarbrorSeb

    Montblanc 12 spindle/knob issue?

    Hoping for some help. The knob on my Montblanc 12 piston filler just twists without the piston moving. Does that mean the spindle head is broken inside the knob? I presume that would be difficult to fix. Everything is friction fitted so it ain’t easy taking the pen apart.
  11. Greetings. I recently picked up a 333 1/2 for less than usual, knowing there would be issues. The body, section, and cap all look fantastic. The nib will need a little attention, but is salvageable and incredibly flexible. But the feed is clearly not original and undersized. I have the equipment and ebonite rod stock to create a new one, but I don't have any idea what the upper part (underside of the nib) looks like. All I can find is images of the underside of the feed. If anyone has any pix of one 't would be deeply appreciated. Dimensions would be even more appreciated. Best,
  12. I have a few Parker 51 pens that I've taken apart, cleaned out, and now it's time to replace their sacs, so I thoroughly removed any gunk and residue from the sac nipple, then shellac'd the new sac and left it to dry for a day or so. The result: after the shellac dries, it seems that it doesn't provide a good air seal. There seem to be "bubbles" under the sac between the "ridges" of the sac nipple, and as I apply some pressure on the sac, it starts to separate from the sac nipple very easily. For this reason, I'm too afraid to put this in a pen, because even though it sold of holds, I'm afr
  13. My wife has a vintage Parker Vacumatic that is a family heirloom. Does anyone know of a repair shop with an online web page that "specializes" in "complete Parker Vacumatic restoration"?? I have seen Danny Fudge at The Write Pen mentioned here, and Ron at Main Street Pens . Are there others (other than the above) in the USA that are reputable (Vacumatics), do great work. Thanks for your help. jim
  14. I have two Waterman E’Talon pens, which I have really enjoyed, plus an extra section and point. Problem is they all leak around the half ring clutch that secures the cap. I was able to dissemble one of the sections and believe the problem is the o-ring that fits above that ring (it’s red/orange). I’m thinking of using silicone to try to create a seal there. But that’s not the problem that is driving me crazy. I can’t dissemble either of the two other sections. I’ve tried hot water and physical pulling, but it won’t com apart. From the section I have apart, I know they do not screw, but push
  15. Gutbucketeer

    Jinhoa X450 Barrel Endcap Removal?

    I have a white Jinhao x450 that was all scratched up and looked like sh**t. So I decided to remove all of the white enamel and make it a brushed steel pen. I can screw off the cap phineal and clip no problem. However, I can't seem to get the end cap of the barrel to move at all. Is it also a screw on, or is it press fit or glued? The other option is to just try to tape the band off while grinding the paint off. JAB
  16. I wanted to share with you the repair of a a crumbled barrel end of a gorgeous oversize Wahl Eversharp Doric in cathay color. A soon as I get this pen (50$) I had the bad idea to push a little on the crumbled crown from the barrel end and boom, it broke up in pieces... Here is the initial state... I cleaned the end barrel removing all the crumbled celluloid. I decided to rebuild the Barrel end crown using another broken doric cap in cathay color (junior size) (also crumbled at the end): here is this cap (yellow arrow shows instable cracks, I got it on ebay for 30$): I first removed a
  17. JonnyTex

    Sailor Repair Process

    I wasn't 100% sure if I should start this thread in the repair or Japan forum. I chose Japan because it is not about repairing a Sailor pen but sending it to Sailor for repair. I thought I would post this thread to inform anyone interested of how the repair process for Sailor Pens works. I sent mine in for repair because I lost the friction-fit inner cap. This is probably a 10 cent part, but the only solution I could find was to send it to the factory for repair. After consulting the forums in this thread: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/347469-sailor-inner-cap-replacement/
  18. Hi all, I took a punt on a vacuum fill Sheaffer Feather-Touch with a military clip cap (the type where the clip bends over the cap's top), and it's sold as unrestored. I'm in the UK, and wondered if anyone had a recommendation for a UK-based repair person?
  19. bestillmysoul

    How To Repair This Jinhao-886?

    While cleaning this pen I think I accidentally removed the nib-holder unit (marked in arrow) from the section. Although the nib holder unit has a screw, it was not screwed inside to the section. But, rather pasted to the inside of the section. When I try to insert the nib holder unit, it remains loose. What can I do in this situation? Is this damage irreversible? https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1597461428__j886_1.jpeg https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1597461497__j886_2.jpeg
  20. lmederos

    Pelikan M800 Section Separated

    Hi all ! I have an M800 that I recently dropped on the floor, while the cap was screwed. I was surprised to see ink all over the floor, and when I picked it up, the cap and the screwed nib and piston were separated from the section where the ink is stored. The section seems to have "popped out" from a collar. Has anyone experienced this? Since the nib is still screwed on the cap, it is hard to see exactly what happened. Any suggestions? Thanks !!
  21. About a month ago, I friend of mine sent his Duofold ballpoint for service to Parker. The pen didn't work for some reason and was just a few months out of warranty, so he decided to sent it directly to Parker in France in order to have it serviced. The pen returned just this week and much to his surprise, it was returned stating that Parker NO LONGER repairs pens or pencils. If under warranty, they might replace the product with a similar one; out of warranty they are offering a 50% discount on any other Parker, Waterman or Rotring product of his choice! Can you believe this?
  22. Greetings! I need some advice. I have an early 1990's MB 149 which needs nib work. I'm guessing it's baby's bottom but the tines also seem to be "wanky" and need adjusted at the bare minimum. I'm not comfortable working on a nib and I live in Germany. I've read about MB's service and it seems that they are more apt to replace parts than fix them, and the cost to replace a nib is very expensive. Also, I bought this pen used (the body and cap are in perfect condition), but unsure if I will keep it as I've really fallen in love with some of my other pens. I'd like to know if it's advisable to
  23. BalancedCraftsman

    Strange Feed On A Waterman 3

    I recently acquired a nice, unrestored Waterman 3 from the early to mid 1930s, in great condition save for a broken feed. Upon removing the remaining length of the feed from the section to commence with the pen's restoration, I noticed that the feed has 2 parts- the feed and an outer sleeve. I have never seen a 2-piece sleeved feed on a Waterman, although I have only restored a few other Watermans (a Purple 5, a 52, and a Dauntless). All things considered, this is the only US-made vintage pen I have found to have a 2-piece sleeved feed (in my limited experience, of course). I've been trying to
  24. I would like to help a friend repair her Montblanc 221, black. It has a hairline crack on the plastic nib holder of the hooded nib. I dont have photo yet but the problem described to me seems a common problem of this model. My question is: must I use MEK, or is Loctite 480 sufficient? I havent been able to buy MEK where I am, but I found Loctite 480 online in Switzerland. I plan to leave the pen for 2 weeks after the glue gets into the crack. Not too optimistic about repairing cracks, but I must try at least. Otherwise her pen is a leaky unusable pen. The leak might not just come from the crac
  25. I am relatively new to sheaffers and pen restoration in general. I have restored my friend's Sheaffer Imperial, but somehow when I got one for myself, the screw was either sealed in and rusted or just rusted in, but i could not even get a grip on it with a screwdriver as the screw had corroded and was stripped. I have limited tools and I don't plan on buying any online. I have also searched online but the suggestions require tools I don't posses or are too risky and I don't want to try. Any suggestions? Sorry I could not get a clear photo of the screw.





×
×
  • Create New...