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  1. MartinTenbones

    Ultrasonic damage

    Well this is a new one for me. I've cleaned and repaired countless pens now. I had a Waterman Stalwart with a very stubborn section I needed to remove to change the sac. I was doing what I normally do. Soak, heat, soak, and also some ultrasonic cleaning to get the section out. I have been trying for days off and on. This morning I put the pen in the ultrasonic and when I took it out it was very hot. Just the pen not the water. It blistered the pen on the opposite side from the lever. This area is above the waterline as I was only just above the nib section with water. I have no explanation as to why. All the other times I had cycled it it hadn't heated up. Any thoughts?
  2. Trinh Nguyen

    SCRIBO FEEL piston disassemble.

    Hello, I don't know if anyone have this problem with SCRIBO piston, I got mine only roughly 4-5 months, however the piston feel a bit sluggish and not as smooth as I wanted to be; I want lubricate the piston but I'm not sure if I should try and with what tool. If anyone had tried, how did you do it and with what tool?
  3. Restoration_Iceland

    Meisterstuck 642 cork replacement - help

    I've got a Meisterstuck 642 with a broken cork seal on my restoration table. I saw somewhere that people have replaced these seals with silicone o-rings. Any idea what size seals to use for this or where one can find appropriate cork replacement seals? For reference the diameter of the piston looks like its about 5mm and the nut that holds it is about 8.5 mm so I would expect the seal to be about 9mm. All advice is welcomed.
  4. Hello y'all, I've gone and done it. I cracked the section on my 221P. It's cracked in multiple places and unless I try to fix it with super glue and the entire grit of micro mesh, it seems unrepairable. The plastic seems somewhat brittle. Now I'm looking for parts. I looked on eBay to no avail. Does anyone know where I can find a section for the 221P? Any help will be appreciated. Happy New Year, Ross
  5. I would love some advice on this 1936 gold Swan. It needs a new sac, but I cannot work out where it comes apart. I am maybe being a bit too gentle because I don't want to damage it! I can get the nib out, but the feed appears to be stuck fast. It looks like the 'gold shell' is likely in several pieces, but I was hoping someone on here would be able to tell me where it opens. The nib appears to be cracked, I will attempt to locate a replacement sometime in the future. Any info on the model ID greatly appreciated too. Thank you.
  6. Hi all, I am finishing my repair of a Balance Vac, and I am trying to set the nib and feed, and they will not seat in the section far enough in! I have never had this problem before. I have attempted to reseat it about 5 times. Every time I find myself exerting more force than I believe is a proper amount and so I back off, say a few chosen words, scratch my head, knock it back out, and figure out what the hell is wrong. I have looked inside the section, I do not see any old nib edge marks to see where it was seated before (this is my fault for not doing this when I took it apart). I have rotated where I attempt to place the nib and feed when inserting it...the only other thing I can THINK of is to set the section in the freezer or fridge (for a brief few minutes) to get it to shrink and therefore expand the size of the section hole, but that is just pure speculation as I try to figure out how to get this darn thing back in. It is the nib and feed that came/original with the pen, so it's not that I am trying to replace these parts. I am out of ideas. Any suggestions?
  7. Does anyone know (or have any) where I can buy old bent/repairable nibs? I have already checked the major websites, so I’m looking for those unadvertised private websites of pen folks that would have them. I need to practice a repair technique, the more the better.
  8. stric75

    M800 barrel interchangeability

    I’m wondering if M800 barrels are interchangeable between the old/early West German models (i.e., from late 1980s and early 1990s) and newer/contemporary models. I think that the evolution of M800 didn’t necessarily affect its dimensions over the years but I’d like to check. Namely, my old W. German M800 has some issues with its barrel and I wanted to change it but I keep finding only the newer barrels available. Any advice is helpful. Thanks.
  9. MartinTenbones

    Vintage Scheaffer Jr

    Ok so I had a fun one with this pen repair. It's a marble Sheaffer Jr. Bought in a pen lot on eBay. It had quite a bit of exterior micro scratches and almost a white looking film to it I got it all apart and replaced the sac. Cleaned up the nib ect and then got to polishing. Once I worked down the micromesh I noticed that the barrel and the cap seem to be a little different colour. The cap seems more grey and the body more greenish. Finish it all up and insert the nib section. Then I take a few "after" pictures. When I go to put the cap on low and behold it won't screw on! Seems the despite the clip and the nib saying junior this is not in fact the cap for this pen.... Any one know the history of the Junior? It's hard to see in these pictures but under the led magnifying glass they are definitely 2 different colours. Maybe one day I'll find the other half's lol
  10. I received this pen (it is a Slim Line, correct?) recently and the previous owner must have glued the section into the barrel - it won't budge. I've tried lots of soaking, ultrasonic cleaning, heat, and even penetrating oil but no go. Can the nib & feed be pulled out? If so, perhaps I can soak more with liquid getting to the other side of the threads and/or put some penetrating oil from the inside or something else. When I got it it had some ink and it really wrote beautifully. I was thinking it would be the perfect pen to carry with my notepad in my bag. It would be nice to fix but I'm about to give up ...
  11. jmccarty3

    Aurora 88 broken in two

    Today I picked up an Aurora 88 that I hadn't used in a while. Went to unscrew the cap and the pen broke at the junction between the ink window and the barrel. The nib, section, and ink window are stuck inside the cap. Is this something that needs to go to Italy, or is there someone here who can fix it? Thanks very much!
  12. Hello FPNers, I bought a Waterman 52 in amazing condition 5 months ago. But recently, the lever has not been staying in place in the closed position. It keeps popping up a little bit. Does anyone know what the problem might be and how to fix it? Many thanks! Best, John
  13. Best greetings to all, I have been the proud owner of a Meisterstuck 147 for over 20 years. During a recent trip, the cartridge holder of my pen went missing. (please read was stolen) It is a detachable part, simply screwed to the end cap. However, Mont-Blanc does not sell replacement and i find strange to have to send my pen to a service center to screw on a detachable part. Could anyone point me in the right direction to acquire a new cartridge holder (genuine would be preferable but i may have to consider options) It is the double-cartridge model. as per the picture Many thanks to anyone who can help Best
  14. copenhagenwriter

    Montblanc 146 splayed nib? Easy fix?

    I’m considering buying a pen with the pictures nib. But as is obvious it is splayed. I know that from pictures alone it’s difficult to assess the problem. From your experience- does this look like something that could be fixed? And is it a diy-fix or something that would require a professional? kind regards thomas
  15. Hello everyone, Years ago I had the opportunity to buy a faulty Montblanc Agatha Christie FP at a bargain price. I feel time has come to fix it. Before sending the pen to MB for a service quote, I'd like to know if I can fix It by myself. Any Way to put the c-ring in Place by myself? Thanks to everyone Who can help!
  16. WestLothian

    3D-Printing Replacement Parts

    Hopefully this will be of interest for those wanting to "repair" by replacement the unrepairable components of vintage pens. This Conway Stewart from around 1950 has cross-linked changes to the polymer causing severe distortions and embritlement (see photograph). The lever-fill mechanism was completely unusable depite all the parts still being inside the barrel. I have had a basic level 3D printer for a couple of moths now and I have been impressed with the fine details that can be generated when the slower speeds and layer heights are used rather than the standard settings. This encouraged me to measure the complicated elements and print test parts to see if the cap threads and the jewel threads would be sufficiently accurate to work. The cap has a 4-start thread that secures it to the barrel with a simple twist. This has a lead of 2.5 mm per turn and, with 4-starts, the effective pitch is 2.5/4 = 0.625 mm. I then used the standard thread forms for ISO metric or Unified to prepare small test parts 1/2" or 12 mm long. The first attempt was far too tight so I kept the same thread form but put the 4 helical cuts deeper into the cap to give a greater than standard clearance. It only took this second test part to get a free running thread that was still very secure when tight. The barrel needs to hold a "J" shaped spring for the filler and has a fine groove to retain a 2-coil helical spring that positions the gold-plated lever in its socket. I printed the barrel first and persuaded the original springs to seat correctly in the new part. This let me fit an ink-sac and get writing. The cap required the female thread to be printed in the same way and had a simple single thread for the cap jewel. It seemed to be close to the dimensions for M4 x0.7p but again required the hole to have a more generous clearance than the metal standard. This cap jewel tightened well using some silicone gloves for grip and holds the gold-plated clip securely. The surface finish shows a texture which is a bit like a silky fabric. I decided to leave this texture rather than trying to sand smooth and polish to a finish. I will need to experiment with the best method to add a decorative gold-plated capring and possibly a printed securing band rather than a groove. The project was worthwhile, if only for the learning and process familiarisation.
  17. LoneCrone

    Learning to repair/refurbish

    Hi, I'm new to the forum and have done my introductions but I'm looking for specific advice here. I have a few questions. Please forgive me if some of this info is already in other posts, but so far I have been unsuccessful in searching. Either I get 0 hits or, for fewer words, I get 5,000 hits!) 1. Is there anywhere you go for instructions or tutorials on basic fountain pen repair or refurbishment? It could be an online seller who has good tutorials, youtube channels, bloggers, etc. 2. What tools are basic necessities for simple stuff like replacing an ink bladder? Nothing super specialized or for more advanced operations. 3. Who has the most beginner friendly website in terms of locating what you need to get in parts or tools? Good descriptions, good search function for know-nothings (can't find a tool or part if I don't know it's name!), reasonable cost. Right now I just have an Osmiroid 54 lever fill made in England that I need to put a new ink bladder into. Thanks for your opinions!
  18. I found an aerometric Parker 51 locally for cheap, but its clip is broken. I'm looking for a clip to replace it, doesn't necessarily have to be a Parker 51 clip. What other clips would fit it?
  19. madoo77

    Trying to identify this pen

    Hi, I have a pen probably 40 years old passed on to me by my late father-in-law. Loved him and love writing with this pen. The converter is beginning to leak now and I am trying to see if I can get a replacement one. First step is to identify this pen and from looking at online information it is either a Sheaffer TRZ or a Fountain II. I saw the following links online which I have been using as a reference: https://www.peytonstreetpens.com/fashion-ii-fountain-pen-model-261-gold-lined-medium-new-old-stock-in-box.html https://www.ebay.ca/itm/185589989550?hash=item2b360680ae:g:GIYAAOSwqRRjK1LX The clip of my pen is slightly different from the TRZ 70 as it is not as close to the end of the cap as the TRZ 70. The Fashion II picture matches but the bottom of the pen is slightly different. Any advice on which one it is? Also, are the converters for the two pens the same? Thanks in advance for your help.
  20. Found in antique mall. Parker21. Squeeze filled with ink went fine , but when I remove cap to use, there's ink all over the top and Barrell underneath the cap. Am I filling it wrong? Does anyone have a recommendation for a repair person? Is there a possible crack in the plastic? Thanks for help.
  21. OldTravelingShoe

    20221124_181303.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  22. OldTravelingShoe

    20221124_181249.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  23. Hi, I have got two old Cross classic century gold fountain pens from my father. I'm not sure about the age. They are marked: 1/20 10KT GOLD FILLED with 14KT M nibs. They have problems with ink flow, dryness and scraping. The pens have now been cleaned in water for over 24 hours. No more ink is coming out. But, I have problems removing the nibs for further cleaning and adjustments. Is it possible to remove them at all or are they fixed? They are not moving at all when pulled. I'm trying with a rubber band between my fingers for better grip, but no :-( Hope you have som good solutions for me :-)
  24. I currently have a 1930s Osmia 222 button filler on my work desk which needs a new sac. The barrel is celluloid and the section seems to be hard rubber. It's a rare pen and I need to be extra careful. What I don't know is whether the section is screwed in or only friction fit. Does anyone here have experience with button fillers from Osmia? Any info is highly appreciated.
  25. WestLothian

    Pelikan Pitting Repair

    After more than a dacade of regular use, my Pelikan pens have developed deep pitting corrosion at the gold ring at the nib end of the section. I wrote to my original supplier and they gave be contact details for an approved repair service. This did not give me a fixed price to replace the ring but requested the pen to be sent to them for a repair assessment. The charges for just the assessment and post and insurance have put me off completely. I decided to have a go at a repair myself starting on an older, cheaper pen. I started by cleaning and getting as much of the dark material away from the holes. The next step was to deposit copper into the pitting using a basic electroplating kit and copper solution. This took several layers and rubbing back to get level with the original gold plating surface. I then decided to increase the protection of the base materials with a layer of nickel plated over the copper and hopefully thick enough to avoid porosity. This layer looked quite dull at first but eventually became brighter after polishing and replating a few times. The final step was to reapply a decorative gold plating layer and get the surface back to the original bling. I have used the pen plating kit before for decorative restoration but this was the first attempt at filling the pitting craters. I feel more confident now. I will use the M600 for a while with the 4001 ink and see how it survives before attempting the process on my M800, which has a rough edge and one deep corroded pit hole.





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