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  1. WestLothian

    3D-Printing Replacement Parts

    Hopefully this will be of interest for those wanting to "repair" by replacement the unrepairable components of vintage pens. This Conway Stewart from around 1950 has cross-linked changes to the polymer causing severe distortions and embritlement (see photograph). The lever-fill mechanism was completely unusable depite all the parts still being inside the barrel. I have had a basic level 3D printer for a couple of moths now and I have been impressed with the fine details that can be generated when the slower speeds and layer heights are used rather than the standard settings. This encouraged me to measure the complicated elements and print test parts to see if the cap threads and the jewel threads would be sufficiently accurate to work. The cap has a 4-start thread that secures it to the barrel with a simple twist. This has a lead of 2.5 mm per turn and, with 4-starts, the effective pitch is 2.5/4 = 0.625 mm. I then used the standard thread forms for ISO metric or Unified to prepare small test parts 1/2" or 12 mm long. The first attempt was far too tight so I kept the same thread form but put the 4 helical cuts deeper into the cap to give a greater than standard clearance. It only took this second test part to get a free running thread that was still very secure when tight. The barrel needs to hold a "J" shaped spring for the filler and has a fine groove to retain a 2-coil helical spring that positions the gold-plated lever in its socket. I printed the barrel first and persuaded the original springs to seat correctly in the new part. This let me fit an ink-sac and get writing. The cap required the female thread to be printed in the same way and had a simple single thread for the cap jewel. It seemed to be close to the dimensions for M4 x0.7p but again required the hole to have a more generous clearance than the metal standard. This cap jewel tightened well using some silicone gloves for grip and holds the gold-plated clip securely. The surface finish shows a texture which is a bit like a silky fabric. I decided to leave this texture rather than trying to sand smooth and polish to a finish. I will need to experiment with the best method to add a decorative gold-plated capring and possibly a printed securing band rather than a groove. The project was worthwhile, if only for the learning and process familiarisation.
  2. LoneCrone

    Learning to repair/refurbish

    Hi, I'm new to the forum and have done my introductions but I'm looking for specific advice here. I have a few questions. Please forgive me if some of this info is already in other posts, but so far I have been unsuccessful in searching. Either I get 0 hits or, for fewer words, I get 5,000 hits!) 1. Is there anywhere you go for instructions or tutorials on basic fountain pen repair or refurbishment? It could be an online seller who has good tutorials, youtube channels, bloggers, etc. 2. What tools are basic necessities for simple stuff like replacing an ink bladder? Nothing super specialized or for more advanced operations. 3. Who has the most beginner friendly website in terms of locating what you need to get in parts or tools? Good descriptions, good search function for know-nothings (can't find a tool or part if I don't know it's name!), reasonable cost. Right now I just have an Osmiroid 54 lever fill made in England that I need to put a new ink bladder into. Thanks for your opinions!
  3. I found an aerometric Parker 51 locally for cheap, but its clip is broken. I'm looking for a clip to replace it, doesn't necessarily have to be a Parker 51 clip. What other clips would fit it?
  4. madoo77

    Trying to identify this pen

    Hi, I have a pen probably 40 years old passed on to me by my late father-in-law. Loved him and love writing with this pen. The converter is beginning to leak now and I am trying to see if I can get a replacement one. First step is to identify this pen and from looking at online information it is either a Sheaffer TRZ or a Fountain II. I saw the following links online which I have been using as a reference: https://www.peytonstreetpens.com/fashion-ii-fountain-pen-model-261-gold-lined-medium-new-old-stock-in-box.html https://www.ebay.ca/itm/185589989550?hash=item2b360680ae:g:GIYAAOSwqRRjK1LX The clip of my pen is slightly different from the TRZ 70 as it is not as close to the end of the cap as the TRZ 70. The Fashion II picture matches but the bottom of the pen is slightly different. Any advice on which one it is? Also, are the converters for the two pens the same? Thanks in advance for your help.
  5. Found in antique mall. Parker21. Squeeze filled with ink went fine , but when I remove cap to use, there's ink all over the top and Barrell underneath the cap. Am I filling it wrong? Does anyone have a recommendation for a repair person? Is there a possible crack in the plastic? Thanks for help.
  6. OldTravelingShoe


    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  7. OldTravelingShoe


    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  8. Hi, I have got two old Cross classic century gold fountain pens from my father. I'm not sure about the age. They are marked: 1/20 10KT GOLD FILLED with 14KT M nibs. They have problems with ink flow, dryness and scraping. The pens have now been cleaned in water for over 24 hours. No more ink is coming out. But, I have problems removing the nibs for further cleaning and adjustments. Is it possible to remove them at all or are they fixed? They are not moving at all when pulled. I'm trying with a rubber band between my fingers for better grip, but no :-( Hope you have som good solutions for me :-)
  9. I currently have a 1930s Osmia 222 button filler on my work desk which needs a new sac. The barrel is celluloid and the section seems to be hard rubber. It's a rare pen and I need to be extra careful. What I don't know is whether the section is screwed in or only friction fit. Does anyone here have experience with button fillers from Osmia? Any info is highly appreciated.
  10. WestLothian

    Pelikan Pitting Repair

    After more than a dacade of regular use, my Pelikan pens have developed deep pitting corrosion at the gold ring at the nib end of the section. I wrote to my original supplier and they gave be contact details for an approved repair service. This did not give me a fixed price to replace the ring but requested the pen to be sent to them for a repair assessment. The charges for just the assessment and post and insurance have put me off completely. I decided to have a go at a repair myself starting on an older, cheaper pen. I started by cleaning and getting as much of the dark material away from the holes. The next step was to deposit copper into the pitting using a basic electroplating kit and copper solution. This took several layers and rubbing back to get level with the original gold plating surface. I then decided to increase the protection of the base materials with a layer of nickel plated over the copper and hopefully thick enough to avoid porosity. This layer looked quite dull at first but eventually became brighter after polishing and replating a few times. The final step was to reapply a decorative gold plating layer and get the surface back to the original bling. I have used the pen plating kit before for decorative restoration but this was the first attempt at filling the pitting craters. I feel more confident now. I will use the M600 for a while with the 4001 ink and see how it survives before attempting the process on my M800, which has a rough edge and one deep corroded pit hole.
  11. While trying to fill a Pelikan Go! the piston just turned off right into my hand! It is not my pen, but I have permission to re-glue the piston. Is this safe to do, and if so what type of glue should I use? The pen is plastic. Thanks.
  12. Hi all, It's my first visit to the forum. I hope someone can help me. I have a Montblanc Noir et Noir retractable fountain that has become rather intractably jammed! I've included some pics to try to illustrate. The nib can still be extended and retracted smoothly by twisting the cap at the barrel. The problem is that when I unscrew the cap from the end to replace it at the nib, the end piece (that clever little flip top that releases the cartridge) remains threaded in the cap. And having the end piece embedded in there makes the cap too narrow to screw onto the barrel and protect the nib. Does anyone have experience with this kind of issue? I would appreciate any kind advice. I love this pen, high-maintenance or no. Thanks kindly. Teresa
  13. 2 weeks ago i got a parker duofold centennial stearling silver barrel. i have spare centennial grip part so i need only stearling sliver cap. i tried to find it at google, ebay, japan auctions and several fountain pen stores. anyone know which store is selling a centennial silver cap???
  14. Hello. It's my first post on fountain pen network. I need some help trying to clean my newly purchased m605. Or I guess you might as well call it a repair at this rate. Essentially, some old ink trapped between the piston and the barrel. Initially, it was all over the piston wall too as that was the condition left by the previous owner. I thought I could clean it on my own but as you can see there are still some ink in there. I tried to soak it in water, soap water and pen flush. I also used pen flush and ultrasonic cleaner together but ink in the double seal can't seem to get out. What can I do? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance :)
  15. Hello, I am hoping to get some direction. I purchased a used 75th anniversary Montblanc 149. About a 2 weeks ago I noticed that a small piece of the rose gold flaked off of the nib near the breather hole. Does anyone know of someone that I can reach out to that can completely re-plate the nib. I understand MB did a really bad job on plating these nibs so I would like to get it re-done so that I don't have to worry about it in the future.
  16. Trinh Nguyen

    SCRIBO FEEL piston disassemble.

    Hello, I don't know if anyone have this problem with SCRIBO piston, I got mine only roughly 4-5 months, however the piston feel a bit sluggish and not as smooth as I wanted to be; I want lubricate the piston but I'm not sure if I should try and with what tool. If anyone had tried, how did you do it and with what tool?
  17. I was thinking about buying a stereo microscope ( my budget is around 250$ to 300$ max) , to do various nib works such as grinding polishing etc. I have a very good belomo 12x loupe but the magnification just isn't enough for me. I want to be able to see very fine details on the tipping of the nib which I can't see with the loupe, especially when working on finer nibs. Now I do have a few options on what to buy, but really need someones opinion. The first choice would be the Amscope se400-z ( https://amzn.to/2SbzszH ). Seems like a good deal and has good reviews. The problem is that it does not have variable zoom plus I don't know if 20x magnification would be enough to show me the finer details of the tipping material and if there would be a noticable difference compared to the loupe. The other option is buying a used microscope from ebay, perhaps from a better brand (leica, zeiss etc) but at my budget most of the ones that I find have pretty much 20x zoom at most (usually its even less, around 10x). The third option would be to buy something unbranded from aliexpress (https://bit.ly/2WCgfps I have something like this in mind) which has more zoom and it is variable too. But again I am trying to avoid this, because I am not certain about the quality of the product and due to the fact that parcels outside eu get stuck at customs, I'll be forced to pay something around 20 euros plus 27% of the price of the item (including shipping). Ideally I would like to buy the amscope se400-z, if 20x magnification is enough to see any difference when comparing it to the loupe. So my question is, is it worth it? Will there be much difference compared to the loupe? Does anyone more experienced have any other proposals, such as another microscope that I have not considered? Any information would be much appreciated and helpful
  18. A while ago, the piston on my M205 snapped as the ink I had in there seemed to have made the piston stuck in place, twisting the piston rod just enough to snap. I tried to contact Pelikan and Chartpak, but both require a fee of $120 for a replacement barrel (I paid $95 for this pen). Also, I have a LAMY 2000 with a few micro cracks on the grip section, right where it meets with the barrel. It leaks everywhere and renders the pen useless unless I want blue fingers. Are there any repair services or options available?
  19. My Parker Duofold is almost 10 years old and the rhodium (palladium ?) cover on the cap rings has been damaged. I have contacted to a jeweler about this issue and he suggested me to detach these rings from the cap. So I have 2 questions: is it possible to disassemble the cap (without any damage) and which metal should a jeweler use to restore the cover? Or maybe it is better to order new rings made of white gold for example? Any help is highly appreciated. Love and peace to everyone! No to war!
  20. Hi, I just received a vintage Rotring Renaissance. I need to take it apart for cleaning. At first I thought the nib section will just screw out like the Pelikan nib. But it feels really tight and I don't dare to apply more force. Does anybody know about this pen? Am I supposed to screw the nib or just pull it out? I did some research on Youtube but didn't find any video of any help.
  21. Hi, I have a damaged/non-working Pilot Elite pocket pen of the 80's. It has a problem with seating the ink cartridge/converter - the converter goes in much too deep and does not become seated (rattles around, falls out if pen is inverted, etc). Can this be repaired? I suspect I'd need to remove the threaded metal part of the body and pull the internal assembly out, but is this (a) reasonably possible, (b) worthwhile and (c) are spare parts to be had anywhere? Many thanks! Marc
  22. rtrinkner

    Lathe Recommendation?

    Hi folks, I'm thinking of purchasing a lathe so that I can try to make my own tools, create custom cap bands, create custom cap band bushings of PEEK (e.g., to follow Fountainbel's swaging techniques) etc. I'd only be using the lathe for pen repair. I'd greatly appreciate any recommendations for specific models you have used with success for pen work. Thanks, Richard
  23. Hi everyone! I picked a Parker 61 with a capillary filler yesterday and I was super excited to try it out. However, I realized that the filler tube itself was loose and inside was totally empty, aside from the long ebonite feed. From the videos I've seen, it seems that there's supposed to be a Teflon coated sheet of wicking material inside that helps wick up the ink. Does anyone know if/how I can either substitute the wick or find a replacement for it?
  24. Hi all! I've just joined the forum, as I'm looking for help with a vintage Cross ballpoint (classic century?) such a Beautiful pen and I fear I've ruined it... Was trying to get the refill out (I know I know, read the instructions) and somehow unscrewed the refill *holder* instead of just the refill. The spring and 2 little washers came out as well. For the life of me, it won't all go back in! It's like the refill holder is too big. . Is this how it stays in..? Friction? And once it is out, can it ever be put back? I am beyond annoyed with myself.
  25. Hi, This is not my first time using a flex fountain pen. I have a pilot 912 FA and a bluedew flex pen but this is my first experience a vintage flex fountain pen. I just received my a vintage waterman fountain pen (a 'new look' that is made between 1940-1950 by JIF-Waterman). According to the seller, this nib can go from EF to 2.0mm. I was experimenting the flex of the pen. And I was too stupid to actually flex it that hard and half of the tip came off from the nib. I still have the tip that is broken off. Is the pen can still be saved or is it only a piece of accessory now? 😭 Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestion.

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