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Showing results for tags 'parts'.
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I recently acquired a waterman ink-vue that is missing the nipple and retaining collar for the inksac(8 and 13 in the right side of the attached photo). I understand these are difficult parts to find, so I’m open to suggestions regarding any other repair option.
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Does anyone know (or have any) where I can buy old bent/repairable nibs? I have already checked the major websites, so I’m looking for those unadvertised private websites of pen folks that would have them. I need to practice a repair technique, the more the better.
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I’m wondering if M800 barrels are interchangeable between the old/early West German models (i.e., from late 1980s and early 1990s) and newer/contemporary models. I think that the evolution of M800 didn’t necessarily affect its dimensions over the years but I’d like to check. Namely, my old W. German M800 has some issues with its barrel and I wanted to change it but I keep finding only the newer barrels available. Any advice is helpful. Thanks.
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Theres an old saying about not borrowing trouble, but theres an interesting old Conklin on eBay that may be affordable because it lacks its crescent. Obviously, Id need a replacement but how available are they? Perhaps someone would know which restorers may have a stockpile of these things? Many thanks.
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Interchangeable Parts (Nibs, Sections, Feeds, Caps) Between Models
Addertooth posted a topic in Waterman
I play around with 0552 1/2 V or LEC, 452 1/2 V or LEC, Lady Patricia sized Watermen pens. Is there a table/chart/list which shows interchangeable parts with the older 12 1/2, 32 1/2 (or other 1/2 sized pens)? I am thinking about getting up a modest spares inventory of parts. -
Somehow I managed to lose the cap for my Sailor Pro Gear demo pen. Does anyone know if there is a way to get a replacement or am I SOL? If you have a good suggestion, or know of another brand that might work, Im open to ideas. I love my Sailor fountain pens and I am really bummed about losing the cap. Thanks.
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Ive just bought an Imperial Sovereign mechanical pencil to complete my Imperial Sovereign set of fountain pen and ballpoint. I bought the pencil as being 'serviced' however when it arrived I found it didn't work. I was going to send it straight back but had a look first. Thanks to the resources I found on this network I worked out that I found the lead had been loaded from the top end instead of from the point. They had also used the wrong size lead. It was too thick. Ive now got some 0.9 mm lead however I also noticed that the eraser had also been completely worn down. I can't seem to find the replacement size. Can anyone help? There seem to be a type G, a type P, and a type D. Can anyone help with information. thanks
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Ive just bought an Imperial Sovereign mechanical pencil to complete my Imperial Sovereign set of fountain pen and ballpoint. I bought the pencil as being 'serviced' however when it arrived I found it didn't work. I was going to send it straight back but had a look first. Thanks to the resources I found on this network I worked out that I found the lead had been loaded from the top end instead of from the point. They had also used the wrong size lead. It was too thick. Ive now got some 0.9 mm lead however I also noticed that the eraser had also been completely worn down. I can't seem to find the replacement size. Can anyone help? There seem to be a type G, a type P, and a type D. Can anyone help with information. thanks
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I have a 1938 Parker Vacumatic with the lockdown plunger. I recent had it sent away for a diaphragm replacement. In the process, the repairman had to rebuild the plunger as it had seen some wear and had presumably been repaired at some point in the past. Unfortunately, when the pen arrived back in the mail and I removed the blind cap, I was greeted by a snake-in-a-can of spring and plunger button shooting out of the pen. It seems the button on the end of the plunger came loose from the metal plunger tube, letting the spring free from its housing. I've seen a lot of pictures of mostly disassembled Vacumatics, but haven't seen photographic examples of the internal plunger components. So I thought I'd post a couple images and include some insights and questions regarding my current problem. Here are the parts as they came loose from the end of my pen. The spring fits inside the shaft (presumably with the metal inset piece at the bottom of the spring) and the brass button slides on top of the end of the spring and inside the end of the sleeve. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/VacSpring-300x200.jpg click image for full size Here is my fix for giving the button a better chance of bonding securely inside the shaft. I've alternated between two paper clips to gradually compress the spring by sticking one through the spring, via the lock-down slot and using the other to keep the spring held down against the top of the slot. This way, the spring is not in contact with or placing upward pressure on the cap as it is glued and left to dry. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/VacClip-300x200.jpg click image for full size Any input on what I should use to get the button to stay? I've been considering epoxy or even good old fashion Krazy Glue. Obviously I'll need some that can hold tight with only a small amount, and I'm not particularly concerned with being able to undo the bond easily. I will using this pen regularly but gingerly and I assume that if anymore work is needed on the Vacumatic system, I'll be needing to replace the whole shebang. Thoughts? Questions? Also here's a (badly lit) picture of the whole pen (fine, arrow nib; "shadow wave" finish). It was my wife's great-grandfather's and its my favorite of all my pens. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/DSC02460-300x200.jpg
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Hi Sheaffer's lovers, I recently purchased a "repair box" that I will restore lightly to become a storage box for some of my collection, and in it was this fantastic manual and parts list. I figured I would make the images available. Enjoy! Matt
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I have an old 20's era eclipse large fountain pen. It is in BHR. Unfortunately the section is broken where the sack attaches. Also the feed is destroyed. I have the original nib so wonder if i can find a feed to fit. This all relies on me being able to fix the section. If not and i provide measurements would it be possible to find a similair section. It seems a shame ty write off an otherwise good condition vintage pen
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Does anyone know how to contact ASA pens for replacement parts. I managed to break the section on my ASA Translucent Acrylic Nauka Fountain Pen and would like a replacement. I am more than happy to pay for it. I have been in touch through the contact link on the site, but have had no response. Any help is appreciated. http://asapens.in/eshop/fountain-pen
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I found I have lying around the following few items: A Waterman 52 barrel with properly functioning lever box; a "Warranted 14c 1st class" gold nib, fitted to a Waterman 52 section; a slip cap rather like that I have seen on Onoto and which happens to fit neatly over the 52 barrel over the threads. By adding a sac, I can make what I expect would be a sound, writing pen. Would you? I don't need the pen. For that matter, I do not need the parts. Such a pen would not excite me but PIF has two problems, one being that I am in Oz (postage) and the other being that the parts may be worth more alone. However, selling involves time and effort for relatively low value items. Maybe I should make it rather than leaving the parts lying about uselessly. I am interested in your views, or what you have done.
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I just recently found (as in actually found, more on this later) an Esterbrook pen in surprisingly nice condition. The only issue is that it was missing the cap, but the nib, section, and barrel were all there and in mostly working condition. I decided I wanted to restore it as it's my first lever filler, and have since removed the old sac and fully cleaned its remnants. All that's left is waiting for parts to arrive. From what I can tell, the pen appears to be an Esterbrook dollar pen (*actually most likely a J series, as pajaro pointed out), but without the cap it's difficult to tell. It's also difficult to tell if it's red or copper in colour -- in person, it looks too dark to be copper, but also too dark to be red. The attached pictures make it look noticeably more red than it is in person. I'm also curious where the best locations to buy parts are. I've of course tried ebay, but I haven't seen just a cap yet. On a few of the other sites I've googled, just trying to buy a cap runs you more than the whole pen without even factoring in shipping. I was wondering if there are a few recommended sites or people to buy parts from at a reasonable price? Link to album with pictures: https://imgur.com/a/c6bCn (The pen itself, see linked album for more pictures) As for the "more info", I actually found it during a daily walk around the park. It was just lying in the grass without a cap in a location that's seldom traveled. The sac was completely useless, and definitely hasn't been recently restored. I spent a couple hours looking for the cap but wasn't able to find it, assuming it was even with the pen. The area I live in likely doesn't have many fountain pen users either, and it was obviously not there long -- the whole situation is definitely mysterious.
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Who Makes The Daniel Steiger Brand Fountain Pen?
cmckeon posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Does anyone know of Daniel Steiger fountain pens? They appear to be a watch/jeweler for men, and must have made some branded fountain pens at some point. I got one as a gift around 2010, and need a replacement nib/feeder, but can't find anything that fits and don't know what to look for in a generic nib/feeder anyway. If I knew the mfr of this pen I'd have an idea where to look, or if I knew how to know what size nib/feeder I have, I could look for a generic. Thanks for helping!
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Here is a copy/pasted (with personal info removed), word-for-word email exchange between myself and a Pilot USA customer service rep the other day: Hello, After cleaning my Custom 823 some time ago I seem to have misplaced the small clear rubber gasket which seats around the feed as it sits inside the section (this is not one of the black rubber o-rings which sit on the outside of the section or the plunger assembly to form a seal upon contact with the barrel). Strangely this has not seemed to impact the writing performance nor does my pen spring leaks randomly, but regardless I wonder if it is possible to purchase a replacement part. Many thanks, -XXXXX ------ Dear XXXXX, Thank you for your email message. We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry. We would be pleased to send you the needed ring. What is your last name and mailing information? Thank you for writing to us. We value your loyalty and investment in our products. Sincerely, XXXXX XXXXX Consumer Advisor ------ XXXXX, Thank you so very much! You can send the part to: **my shipping address**Is there any charge for the part? I do not mind paying if so; let me know if this is the case so that you can invoice me for it. Many thanks again for your help! Cheers, -XXXXX ------ Hi XXXXX, No charge. This will be sent via US Postal Mail. Have a wonderful day! Best regards, XXXXX ------ Some things to note: -I live in Canada; I reached out to Pilot USA because up here we don't have a Pilot office, just a distributor (although I think Pilot USA does handle all repairs etcetera for North America) -These forums have stated on numerous occasions how picky Pilot are if you did something to their Custom 823; there are stories all over here to the tune of I opened it to clean it when the papers clearly said not to and Pilot charged a whack of money to do anything to my pen To be fair, nothing is broken on my 823, I just stupidly misplaced a part (which so far has not impacted its performance strangely), and the part likely costs them more to post through the mail than to manufacture. But I don't see service like this much nowadays... I can't imagine opening my Nikon to clean it or adjust something, misplacing some piece in the process, and simply emailing Nikon and having them send me a replacement gear or o-ring or whatnot... and FREE to boot. Long story short, Pilot earned a ton of respect from me for their customer service... it's nice to see a company that supports their products so solidly. I fell in love with the Custom 823 I got a while back from them, but this experience cements that I will definitely purchase from them again (the other moral of the story is if in doubt, ask... you never know what reply you will receive!)
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Does anyone know where I can start looking for a piston and barrel sleeve for the repair of a Conklin Nozac Word Gauge?
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Hi I'm new to this forum. I need someone's advise on my Mont Blanc Fountain Pen. I have a Mont Blanc 149 that I really like and it is a Vintage Pen pre 1991 as it does not have a serial number. My other Mont Blanc Fountain Pen uses a ink converter. Recently my Pen came apart and a very small gold ring was later found. At that time I did not realize it was from the Pen. In any case the Pen now comes apart and I can not find the small gold ring which screws into the Pen. Should I send it back to Mont Blanc for repair or can I buy the small gold ring somewhere ? Thanks Lambchop1
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I know this is a very basic question for you all, but can someone please tell me what this part for a rollerpoint is called? Thanks very much, James http://www.jamesburger.com/new/pen-tip.jpg
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Has Anybody Tried To Fabricate Or 3D-Print Parts? (Mark 1 Vacumatic Blind Cap Although Anything Else Also)
ThegreatandpowerfullR posted a topic in Repair Q&A
Has anybody tried to fabricate, with or without a 3d printer, any parts? especially Parker 51 vacumatic blind cap parts? esp on the Mark 1? I have a Blue 51 Mark 1 (vacumatic with the plastic plunger and all-plastic blind cap) that I think is a a demi because it was short, but the diameter is the same so i don't think it matters. I do not care if the color is the same (not like pink or a bad looking color though) or if it is even the same shape since it isn't a very intriguing or necessary shape anyways. The bottom lip has a chip that is about 90-120 degrees around the bottom but not deep, so it doesn't affect usability but is clearly visible by as breaking the continuity/seam and as a kinda "hole" in the side. I'm thinking it might be hard to 3d print usable threads, but I think the following things could be done. 1. Print something that vaguely resembles the cap and have an inset with the threads in another material like homemade casein (milk protein plastic), modeling clay, sugru (moldable silicone that stays set once cured), or a Thermoplastic like InstaMorph (plastic that can be reshaped as well as finished in several ways) 2. Have the whole thing one of the materials listed and hand shape it or even better make a mold of the current cap. 3. Have it 3d printed or one of the materials listed and fugure out a way to have it attached another way than threading. I haver some ideas but not really sure of the best way. I am thinking like some sort of small locking or snap mechanism or like locking friction threads. If anything I could have like a friction-fit end cap with "arms" that run down the pen a little, and if the whole thing or at least the "arms" are made of the silicone sugru it would almost definitely grip if it is what I imagine and double as a roll-stop as I don't usually post even when the pen is short. As long as it works, and doesn't cost much more than an actual blind cap or I can sell another to offset the cost I am probably going to make my own blind cap for at least the experience/fun/challenge/new techniques so if you are interested contact me. -
I told family I would like a fountain pen for my birthday and was given this lovely item, my father's Conway Stewart Executive 60 with the Cracked Ice design. What a beauty. But it needs servicing and parts, missing some of the original innards - the pressure bar, the feed, the ink sac. Is it possible to obtain compatible parts and get the pen working again?
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Hi Sheaffer Fans! I've got a pretty simple question here: Are the earlier Imperial (IV,VI,VIII, etc) caps compatible with the later style (440,550,777,etc) pens? Are the metal caps the same as the plastic ones internally? Thanks!
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Hello, Moment ago I have discovered my beloved Aurora Hastil has lost one of its jewels somewhere on the way. Made my Monday really, really sad. Can someone help me with sourcing a replacement one? Help! http://ewebog.nazwa.pl/allegro/Hastil-1.JPG http://ewebog.nazwa.pl/allegro/Hastil-2.JPG Thank you in advance, Filip
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I recently had a Mont Blanc Diamond LeGrand fail. The pen was in my travel bag on a trip. When I opened the bag and checked my pen holder, I noticed the barrel had broken off at the end. Either the bag took a sharp impact or the barrel failed. I contacted a local Mont Blanc authorized dealer regarding repair and they indicated there was no option for repair. It was purchased in 2011 in the UK from Herrod's who is an authorized dealer and all of the paperwork, receipts, and boxes are still in my possession. The dealer indicated the pen did not have a repair option and I should look at a new pen. Seems crazy for an $600 pen. The diamond cap and other parts are all still intact. The barrel failed at the spring on the back end. I simply want to order a replacement barrel, not an entirely new pen. What are my options and any suggestions as to an Authorized Dealer who may be able to get parts? Thank you. Chris
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I have some pens without caps. I wasn't hungry it was how they came in the grab bag. But now I'm left with what looks like a decent red transitional Estie and black J Estie without caps. I've looked on EBay but I don't want to buy a whole pen just for the cap; I'd just repair the pen WHICH STILL LEAVES ME IN NEED OF A CAP! (and sounding like a pirate) ARGH!
