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  1. Past hour
  2. Oh no! The eBay seller I got a Monteverde Mountains of the World pen from offered a 10% discount on the Black Mountains version which would make it cost $40.50. What to do?
  3. Kari Homan Shannon

    The FPN Post Office

    Letter in from @Enkida
  4. I believe it's a genuine ST Dupont pen. I have the same version Poudre d'Or but in rollerball format. The plastic section broke off a while back so I am not using it anymore. My local ST Dupont dealer in town, he is also the ST Dupont service center here showed me that Chinese Lacquer can withstand heat. I pulled out my cigar torch lighter and lit the Chinese Lacquer and nothing happened. Quite impressive. I would not do that to my MB Meisterstuck, lol. If I was you, just use the pen. It's a beautiful pen and deserves to be used.
  5. A Smug Dill

    Starting Over (kind of)

    Fellow member @Jamerelbe has experience across a broad range of Diplomat models, and in fact has review them on FPN, so you might want to look at what he has to say or has written. Or maybe ask @DvdRiet. I don't have a Diplomat Esteem fountain pen, although I vaguely remember having one with a grey granite finish many years ago. I wasn't impressed with it, but then it probably didn't have an EF nib to suit me and allow (fair or favourable) comparison with the pens I liked; and I think it didn't seal well against ink evaporation. It must have been chucked out along the way, long before I returned to the hobby. In any case, that pen probably isn't a good exemplar of what the nibs on new Diplomat Esteem pens today are like. I do know that the Esteem doesn't have the same type/size of nib as on the Excellence A2, Aero and Elox; and I can endorse those larger nibs only from recent experience. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/364201-what-pens-are-you-using-today-in-2022/?do=findComment&comment=4530866 https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/366416-hello-from-adelaide-australia/?do=findComment&comment=4535870
  6. Today
  7. mazinger55

    Old vs new Matte Black Sonnet rollerball

    better the old model
  8. OCArt

    Soften or Lube Esterbrook 484 base seals

    On a pool filter webpage I found out that silicone grease is good to use on "O"-rings, so that's my plan. It will be fun to use this desk pen. I'm just old enough to remember going to the bank with my parents and finding desk set fountain pens with chains for use by the customers to fill out checks, deposit slips and the like.
  9. Yesterday
  10. fpupulin

    New Old Stock Bohème OB - snag or pass?

    The Bohéme is a great pen design, and I understand why you appreciate so much your pen and your well tuined nib. Last summer I was able to put my hands on a non-retractable Boheme Golden Line with no stone, with a perfect EF nib. I use it very often, for anything, and I am already pleased by the gracious shape of this pen.
  11. I have one — it has a black feed, not a red one.
  12. fpupulin

    The Meisterstück 149 Calligraphy Appreciation Thread

    Dear como, I agree with JulieParadise that both versions look fantastic. I have a slight preference for the alphabet you wrote with the 149 Calligraphy, as it has that subtle and elegant stroke variation that made it more "live". Nonetheless, your test well demonstrates that this particular script may be perfectly written with an italic nib, and il looks very nice also this way. As to the paper, I have not had problems with the 3-4 sheets of Clairefontaine I used so far. Now that the the weather is brighter and warmer, it sometimes happens that the hand interferes with the paper, making it a bit oily. As a side note, I really enjoyed your pic, with the two beautiful pens resting on the sheet after the work... They are so absolutely diverse, and so absolutely splendid in their own, particular, timeless beauty!
  13. dipper

    Hello From Adelaide, Australia.

    Welcome @banistersmind from the woodlands of Norfolk UK. The video review below shows another (fairly similar) pen from the same "Online" brand as your be-safe pen. The reviewer compares that pen favourably to the well respected Lamy Safari pen. Also the video gives some info on the "Online" company, their cartridges, and compatibility with standard "international" cartridges and "converters" for using bottled ink. Choosing a "better" pen? I suggest you try just one more low-price pen first. Look for something with a few differences.... A different nib width, different body length, different weight, different materials used, etc. After using both pens you will be much better tuned-in to what you like and don't like. You may even find that you really like the cheaper pens! Some are excellent writers. See this forum topic...
  14. Number99

    I got this pen today

    Parker180 basket wave version of the roller ball. The harshness of a refill exploding on an airplane from Okinawa It arrived after a trip. Others are one of the few collections of my fountain pens for viewing. It is a link of Line Friends. https://www.linefriends.jp/m/
  15. Brian-McQueen

    Sheaffer Snorkel blues...

    This photo is about as color-accurate as you can find. 12 is Peacock, 13 is Aqua, 14 is Periwinkle. For what it's worth, yours looks like Aqua if you say the first two photos are closer to the actual pen.
  16. if you google "fix scratchy nib site:www.fountainpennetwork.com" you will find tons of good advice. From what you describe, I think your nib tines are out of alignment and need adjusting. This is not difficult to do... Good luck, let us know how it goes.
  17. Yeah, the Level is a good example. My son (12 years old) uses one for school, as its huge capacity is definitely a plus. He likes it, but somehow when the Level was still sold, it never seemed to really catch on. I can remember that in the 90s there were pens from Geha with an integrated ink eraser/Tintenkiller, those were neat. There was a small cap at the rear end of the pen, about the size of a blind cap for piston mechanism, that you could pull off and find a small felt tip with ink erasing fluid for royal blue inks. You could also get refills and replacement tips for these. I cannot recall what the model was named. Pelikan had those, too, I think.
  18. j stack


    Thanks for the replies. Ebay will likely be the route I go (assuming I can figure out how to create a seller's account!). It is a nice pen, but out of my collecting realm. A bit of an impulse buy.
  19. zeroduke

    LeMan 100 - what version?

    Yes, I agree. It's the Opera Version.
  20. The Pelikan Twist. Its interesting design attracted me. Its ergonomics turned my into a 'hater'. It was 'gifted' onwards at the earliest opportunity.
  21. Do you have any Pilot ink? Either in cartridges or Iro? I find sometimes when there are proprietary systems that pen sellers design their feeds with their own inks in mind. I will say that I had a Pilot F tuned for $20, and it became MUCH smoother, while still being a nice narrow line that I can use to do a crossword on newsprint. I am unfamiliar with the inks you've tried.
  22. Pelikan Level comes to mind for me.
  23. alexander_k

    R. Oster Bronze vs KWZ Green-Gold

    No, just the plain version.
  24. .... important! The metal nib/feed combined unit (shown above) is Phosphor Bronze PB102, an alloy used in marine, aircraft, and chemical applications. No corrosion ... so far. I have been designing, making and evolving related designs for a couple of years, and observing corrosion resistance is part of that process. Selecting for corrosion resistance starts with metal alloy information on the wwweb. Usually tabulated as something vague like " excellent / good / moderate / poor ". Often included are lists of known uses and known problems - that can be more helpful. I have not found any such lists saying "excellent for fountain pen nibs". In the copper based alloys (brasses and bronzes) many include lead in the alloy mix, to improve machinability. I have excluded all those alloys for health reasons. PB102 is a lead-free alloy. Electrolytic corrosion (aka Galvanic corrosion) is something to bear in mind. A fountain pen with a metal nib made of one alloy, in contact with a metal feed made of a different alloy, constantly wetted by ink (electrolyte) .... may suffer from that problem, even if each metal has "good" corrosion resistance when alone. My pens are each single metal only, so galvanic corrosion is not an issue. Except for one. A spring-steel dip pen, with bamboo feed/reservoir, and a stainless steel screw touching the nib. The nib to feed gap is adjustable by a pivoting rocking motion, driven by the screw, restrained by a tight wrap of Kevlar cord. Pen has been in occasional use since May 2021, test cleaning and storage as described below, with no galvanic corrosion yet seen. My corrosion resistance test is that pens are used in random rotation with fountain pen inks, or pigment/India inks, rinsed in plain water, drained onto a paper towel, and left to air dry. Then stored dry in jars and checked occasionally over the following months. No oil protection used. (I have not used any iron-gall inks. Need to buy a known nasty one sometime to up the test severity.) Results have been illuminating.... 1 ) Many steels hate being wrapped in gummed (lick and stick) brown paper tape. Corrosion occurs in weeks. So I now label every pen with sawn grooves in binary code. For instance the six-inch-nail pen number P22 is grooved on its shaft as " .I.II. " representing binary 010110 = decimal 22. 2 ) Mild steel pens can remain 95% corrosion free for two years if dried after use and stored out of their wood or bamboo handles. Light red rust stains showing at shank ends, ink tip ends still OK! That is ideal for making design protoypes, proof of concept tests, etc, where ease of working the materials trumps long term durability. 3 ) Mild steel galvanised nail pens remain 100% corrosion free if some of the zinc galvanizing is left in place at the back end of the piece. (Galvanic protection of the exposed bare steel surfaces by contact with zinc nearby.) Here is a six-inch-galvanised nail pen, tip worked as fins and feed slot, zinc coating still visible just behind the inked region. Over a year old now, and showing some india-ink deposits, but corrosion free. 4 ) Stainless Steel alloy 316 is 100% proof against everything I have thrown at it. A polished mirror finish in 2020 is still a polished mirror finish in 2022, despite cleaning only as described. Cheap, very tough and hard wearing, readily available..... but 316 is a swine to work! It blunts saws, clogs files, and destroys abrasive papers. 316 Stainless does behave well if cold forged, hammer and anvil blacksmith style, with heat annealing to undo work-hardening if needed. Are modern factory-made steel nibs cut and cold forged from 316 Stainless sheet? It would be logical choice. 5 ) Household brass-screws, general brass or copper alloy salvaged scrap, and PB102, all develop a colour-change patina within days, but then remain unchanged. I have not repolished any of those pen prototypes following initial polish when made. So, visually inferior to gold nibs but functionally equivalent (?!) and durability good so far. Long term report will be available in 60 years. (Or check brass decorative parts of existing vintage pens?)
  25. GlenV


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