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Found 14 results

  1. I've been using Lamys as my pens for school for seven years. I've never had any problems. However, my most recent purchase, which I've been using for about two months, has the same issues that stopped me using the previous one. I use these pens a lot, probably changing my cartridge every two to three weeks. I rely on my pen a lot as a student and I need it to work otherwise I'll have to turn to *shudder* ballpoint. Essentially the ink stopped flowing as easily as it used to, skipping on upstrokes or horizontal lines. Then it got very very hard to work. So I rinsed the whole of the pen, removing the nib and blowing very gently to push water through where the ink goes (I think it's the feed). It worked- for a day. Now it's gone back to being very pale and scratchy even though it's got enough ink and the nib seems fine? I'm so frustrated by this as pens aren't cheap and I've only had it for two months! I love fountain pens so much- what can I do to fix this one? Soak it? But I don't see how the ink could have dried up during such regular use? The nib is fine, not bent or anything. aargh, please help me!!!
  2. I have a 1938 Parker Vacumatic with the lockdown plunger. I recent had it sent away for a diaphragm replacement. In the process, the repairman had to rebuild the plunger as it had seen some wear and had presumably been repaired at some point in the past. Unfortunately, when the pen arrived back in the mail and I removed the blind cap, I was greeted by a snake-in-a-can of spring and plunger button shooting out of the pen. It seems the button on the end of the plunger came loose from the metal plunger tube, letting the spring free from its housing. I've seen a lot of pictures of mostly disassembled Vacumatics, but haven't seen photographic examples of the internal plunger components. So I thought I'd post a couple images and include some insights and questions regarding my current problem. Here are the parts as they came loose from the end of my pen. The spring fits inside the shaft (presumably with the metal inset piece at the bottom of the spring) and the brass button slides on top of the end of the spring and inside the end of the sleeve. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/VacSpring-300x200.jpg click image for full size Here is my fix for giving the button a better chance of bonding securely inside the shaft. I've alternated between two paper clips to gradually compress the spring by sticking one through the spring, via the lock-down slot and using the other to keep the spring held down against the top of the slot. This way, the spring is not in contact with or placing upward pressure on the cap as it is glued and left to dry. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/VacClip-300x200.jpg click image for full size Any input on what I should use to get the button to stay? I've been considering epoxy or even good old fashion Krazy Glue. Obviously I'll need some that can hold tight with only a small amount, and I'm not particularly concerned with being able to undo the bond easily. I will using this pen regularly but gingerly and I assume that if anymore work is needed on the Vacumatic system, I'll be needing to replace the whole shebang. Thoughts? Questions? Also here's a (badly lit) picture of the whole pen (fine, arrow nib; "shadow wave" finish). It was my wife's great-grandfather's and its my favorite of all my pens. http://sethkastner.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/DSC02460-300x200.jpg
  3. Alexcat

    Yard-O-Led Nib Unit

    Firstly, I know I made a huge mistake/boo boo...am daft, etc. insert word if choice. Trust me, Ive used them all, and then some. I bought this: "The plain version of the Viceroy style. Purchased in 1988. The nib is a medium point and the original. On the pen cap there is a tiny dent, barely visible. Pen number 4635 YOL 925 . Hallmarked. Wooden box and YOD guarantee" When I got it, it wouldn't write...I tried soaking, gently(no chemicals whatsoever, not even Fairy) patience, multiple flushing s etc. still wouldn't write. Long story short, contacted seller, who was adamant it wrote when he sold it, and he thought I may have damaged it in my attempts to fix. He offered a return, but conditional on him sending it to a repairer(and I had no way of knowing whethervId be named/charged for repair etc) Got myself so upset( lot of life stuff going on, recently widowed, am very fragile right now, can cope with very little) and wondering if I had in fact damaged it, that I closed the eBay case and Sid I'd get it fixed myself. I know that sounds stupid, buI really couldn't cope with the hassle. So. Asked my friendly penman if he'd look at it, explained it all, upshot is that it has a crack; this is what he said(and he also said that there was very little chance that I had done the damage): "have just taken a good look at the forward part of the section, and there is definitely a spiral shaped crack in it that extends for about 5 or 6 mm. As such, you are unlikely to ever get a decent ink flow from the nib. You would need a replacement section. Your pen is quite an old model, and YOL no longer make sections of this type, so i don't really know where you'd get one from. " Does anyone have any suggestions(other than trying to contact the seller on eBay....already did, no response, and as I was stupid enough to close the vase, he is in the right) Is there any other nib unit which would fit, or anywhere I could get a replacement without spending a fortune? Hope this makes sense.... Alex
  4. Hvostik

    £5 Parker Sonnet - Weird Nib

    Hello, everyone. First post - please, be kind. So, I came across a CT Flighter Sonnet (1994 version) at a charity shop I volunteer at. Marked "Sonnet Q.I France". Old Parker logo - arrow through ellipsis(?). Feather engravings on clip are distinct and sharp - good sign. However, the nib seems 'off'. See images - too much tipping, and layered to form a ridge on upper part. Blob of tipping on end if tip (no pic, as couldn't fix pen to microscope in that position). The engravings are nowhere near as sharp as the ones on the clip- not sure if this indicates an issue. It writes fine though... Not as wet as I would have liked, but hey, for a fiver, can I really complain? So, my questions are: Do you, penthusiasts, think it is genuine? If so, is the nib's condition a problem? Should I attempt to sand it down using micro-mesh? Should I return it? As a sixth-form students, I don't think my budget will stretch to a whole new nib unit...
  5. I have a Pelikan 400 tortoise (one of the modern re-releases) with a friction fit piston assembly. The piston got stuck and I assumed there was dried ink around the piston head. Curiously there wasn't. Even after knocking out the piston mechanism I cleaned the barrel with q-tips and there wasn't any sign of ink. I put it all back together, cleaned everything, put grease where grease was meant to be....a problem emerged. The piston nob won't screw down tight to the barrel. When I turn the nob to plunge the piston towards the nib, the piston won't go tight to the end of the pen like it used to. Instead there is a short gap just before the end of the barrel and the whole assembly at the other end unravels and falls off, as if the piston spindle is pushing everything out. That is, the nob and mechanism that slots into the nob, but not the section that friction fits into the barrel. So the whole thing comes off in my hand. I tried to re-seat the piston mechanism entire by knocking it out again and putting it back together - same issue. Can anyone help, with straight forward, easy to follow instructions?
  6. northstar

    Esterbrook Dollar Pen Clip

    Hello, How do I disassemble the clip of a esterbrook dollar pen? Thank you in advance.
  7. TimCasey13

    P61 Section Repair

    Hi, I have a Parker 61 that writes perfectly, but the catch (isn't there always one?) is that the section has a small crack that lets ink seep through and stain my fingers when I use it. Can this be fixed? If so is it something a novice can do or should it be left to an expert?
  8. MichaelSpyker

    Pelikan Go! P-70

    Hi Everyone, So I have a Pelikan Go! P70 and I've royally fu**ed up. I was cleaning the nib, very gently, and, I guess my gentle wasn't soft enough so while still screwed into the barrel, the nib section broke off. On top of that, there's a crack in the grip and it keeps falling off. Here's a few questions I have. I'm dirt poor and can't afford another one! I had this pen for literally 3 days before it went to sh*t. I pretty much spent my savings on this and I'm pretty sure I got ripped off. I paid upwards of 50 euros for this, plus currency exchange fees from the Canadian Dollar, so, I know, I messed it up. Okay.... Can I repair this pen? It's my only hope to write with a fountain pen. Can I remove the screw in section from the barrel? It's broken in there, screwed in. If I can remove the section stuck in the barrel... how can I reattach it to the nib section? I'm planning on fusing the plastic together to fix the crack and using superglue to make sure that the grip stays sealed (not stuck to the nib section though). Honestly, I'm desperate to repair this pen. I can't afford another one after I got ripped off with this one.
  9. Good afternoon (here) ladies and gentleman... Okay, so I sprang for this pen on the bay of evilness and I knew it didn't have a clip. To me this isn't a big deal as I'm hoping I will love this pen and use it daily. But, where does one get a clip or can one get a clip for a Waterman 3 and if so, can a complete moron, such as myself do the repair? The pen was cheap as it is (crudely) monogrammed. Any and all help from this illustrious brain trust is much appreciated!!!!!
  10. Smothier

    Sheaffer Snorkel Barrel Crack

    Hi Everyone, I've recently got a hold of a Sheaffer Snorkel from the bay. Upon receiving it, I noticed a crack at the plunger end, usually a far too common and unfortunately fatal issue in snorkels. As it's in the UK, parts are notoriously difficult to find, let alone for a justifiable price. I actually noticed the issue after winning, but having already paid, the seller just played dumb and completely denied it, even though it was blatantly obvious. Since I got it for a good price, however, it isn't worth much in returning. The crack itself is perhaps about 3/8 of an inch, roughly the same distance away from the breather hole. Internally - the pen is sound and fixable, just that little crack can cause issues. I've looked around and and I've seen Tenax 7R advertised wholeheartedly by Ron Z, however it's nearly impossible to find in the UK. (and for a good price) My question is if there's any alternatives I can find cheaply in the UK, something trustworthy as I have little option for failure. I'm confident in my ability to fix pens and have a steady hand (should have been a surgeon but chemistry wasn't my strong point hehe). Also, provided a picture of the crack. Excuse the horrible quality, I needed to MSPaint some things of help. Thanks in advance.
  11. VatVVolf

    Nib Wiggle Lamy Safari

    Hello, guys! I was recently filling my lamy safari with bottled ink for the first time and I noticed that the nib wiggles, not up or down just to the sides a bit... is this normal? if it isn't is there any way for me to fix it?
  12. I'm new to FPN, but I've used fountain pens for a long time now and I'm prepared to help others. First lets get ink flow adjusted.[NOTE THAT THESE ACTIONS WILL MOST LIKELY VOID THE WARRANTY OF YOUR PEN. I REFUSE TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE BRAKING/ INEFFECTIVENESS OF YOUR PEN. YOU FOLLOW MY ADVICE AT YOUR OWN RISK] You probably want to detach the nib if you can, as it is less likely to break if you do. Wash it and place it on a hard surface that is covered with a cloth or tissues. Place it wih the nib facing upwards and press down with your index finger until it splits down the middle(not breaking but split down the line that splits the tines). Hold for ten seconds then attach back to the feed. Rinse and repeat until satisfactory. Next, the scratchiness. The main cause for scratchiness is misalignment. If you modified the ink flow, the alignment may be slightly off. Take off the nib and wash it(again). Then, grip the shoulders of the nib and look at it so that you see the tip of the nib. Push one of the times up or down until fully aligned. With a non detachable nib, you can do the alignment with the same method. But for the ink flow press the nib against paper so it splits in the same fashion. Hold for ten seconds and rinse and repeat until satisfactory. Again, you may need to realign the tines. Thanks for reading!
  13. I would very much like to try to learn the basics of how to restore, look after, and nurture fountain pens....I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of suitable websites ( very much a beginner) or books. Alex
  14. MajesticPens

    Cracked Estie Cap

    So, I dropped my Easterbrook LJ down a flight of stairs. Then this happened: More info in the crack:-goes all the way around-I can't close the cap tightly-inner cap seems to be intact-material is Pearl Grey Can this terrible crack be fixed? Please Help!





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