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  1. parapadakis

    What type of cork is best for seals?

    Hello, I'm about to make my own cork seals for the first time. In this case it is for a Safety Pen, but there are also a few Onoto plungers in waiting. My question is this: What is the correct/best type of cork to use for seals? Does it make a difference? many thanks George
  2. bsenn

    Webster - Winds Like a Watch

    A thread here mentions a Sears catalog with a Webster pen which has an exclusive filler which "winds like a watch". The last post in the thread seems to have the best resolution of the catalog page. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/349491-sears-wishbooks-1937-96-online/#comment-4268709 I recently picked one up. The cap has a clip similar to Sheaffer military clips. The cap and barrel material reminds me of Parker shadow waves. The nib is a well-made 14k marked Webster Gold Star and the barrel is marked Webster Made in USA. The knob on the end is stamped in two places with arrows indicating direction. Turning in the direction of the arrows (clockwise, these are left-hand threads) reveals threads attached to and turning with the knob. The knob turns until about 1/8" of threads are revealed, then stops hard. I have been working on removing the section with no luck so far. I assume it is some kind of piston filler, but can anyone tell me what I can expect to find once I get the section loose? Brian
  3. Hi! I'm a new member from Sweden and my name is Peter, nice to meet you all! I inherited 3 pens when my father passed earlier this year and i need help with identification of the pens and also want to know if they are any good or if it's just "ordinary" fountain pens. They are all piston filled pens by the way. The 1st one is fully striped and have no text/logo or markings on it whatsoever and is equipped with and Iridium point. The 2nd is one color blue/gray-ish (Can't really determine because of impaired vision) It has the text "Valero" branded on it's body and has a nib with the text "Real 12R" on the point. The 3rd I know just alittle about, it is black and have the text "The Tower" on two places on the pen and a 14K gold nib. As far as i understood this was the name Soenneken (?) gave these pens when selling them to Sweden and some other country. Maybe some of you can fill me in here? Name, model, approximate age and other info would be nice I would appreciate all info you can give me and if someone can help with estimating the value on each pen it would be nice. (No pens are for sale, i plan to start using one or several of them.) //Peter
  4. Looking into possibly buying a Santini... was wondering if any of you have greased the piston on it or know how to. Thanks for your help! W. H. Major
  5. Karmachanic

    M1000 - Piston weight?

    I've looked online to no avail. Does anyone know the weight of the M1000 piston mechanism? Thank you!
  6. Mob Mentality

    Montblanc 149 piston puzzle

    <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/192670838@N04" title=""><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51088053741_90065e7a29_h.jpg" width="1600" height="1200" alt=""></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> Hello all. I recently purchased a Montblanc 149 in red gold. What is strange is the piston threads on this pen. The pen has an 18k nib however the threads don't appear to be brass looks to almost be a whitish metal has Montblanc changed the piston threads recently? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  7. Dear readers, I was hoping you could help identify this pen. Searching for "Swan piston filler" and derivatives thereof have not yielded any helpful information. I'm looking to disassemble and restore this pen, as it is leaky from both ends. Many thanks for any help you can offer. If pictures are of too low a quality, I can provide better ones.
  8. I realized today that I have a decent collection of Wing Sung piston fillers (698 gold, medium, fine, 3008 fine and 618 fine) and decided to compare them side by side and in writing. A few observations: the gold nib 698 is quite scratchy compare to the steel nibbed 698s. The rest of the nibs were similar, with the fines being very fine. The gold fine was a bit springy and a bit jucier than the steel nibs. None of the 698s post, I just stuck the caps on the end to keep them from rolling around while taking pictures, but the 3008 and 618 do nicely. The 618 isn't shorter, but the cap fits on further. Next, all the knobs except the 3008 (old style) have "locks" to keep them from turning. The 698s are the easiest to clean just flushing with the piston. The 3008 really needs disassembly to clean. I think overall, the medium would be my preference, it is a nice feeling pen and I prefer a slightly bolder line. All in all a fantastic value. Last, I have terrible taste and ordered a green glitter 618. No one will mistake that for anything vintage! From left to right: Gold nib 698, Medium 698, Fine 698, 3008 fine, 618 fine Ink: J. Herbin Perle Noir, Paper Clairefontaine
  9. Trinh Nguyen

    SCRIBO FEEL piston disassemble.

    Hello, I don't know if anyone have this problem with SCRIBO piston, I got mine only roughly 4-5 months, however the piston feel a bit sluggish and not as smooth as I wanted to be; I want lubricate the piston but I'm not sure if I should try and with what tool. If anyone had tried, how did you do it and with what tool?
  10. Hello everyone, I had asked this question on the Italy forum, but did not get any reply, so hopefully someone will be able to help here. I just bout this three (NoS) Omas Deskpens (Two 556T and one 583T), the pistons are extremely stiff and not moving. I need help on how to disassemble the pistons to grease them. Thank you in advance. Best regards, Northstar
  11. I was thinking about what would the perfect pen look like. I decided (at least for today) that the pen would have a piston fill and would take a #6 friction fit nib. This would allow me to trade nibs around and would have the finese of a piston fill. Question: what pens come to mind that take a #6 nib and has a piston fill? Thanks Russ
  12. Family owned and operated, Fountain Pen Revolution has come out with their version 2 of the Jaipur fountain pen. Currently there are only 2 acrylics, a blue and an orange and 1 ebonite brown which is the subject of this first look reviewlet. What is it? A piston filler of Indian origin designed and branded by FPR along with a stable of other brands that they sell. The ebonite is smoother and finished better than the Himalaya v2. Himalaya looks and feels more matte whilst the Jaipur is slicker and sheenier. The length is a smidge longer and girthier than the Himalaya with a more cylindrical shape. I much prefer its profile over the himalaya v2 and that pen feels almost perfect. Comparison to an M600 would longer, less taper and slight less girth. Jaipur hits close to Lamy Safari dimensions. Left to right: Leonardo Momento Zero, Pelikan M600, FPR Jaipur v2 with Ultra Flex nib, Lamy Vista (clear Safari) and FPR Himalaya V2 The Jaiput v2 piston filler pen can be completely disassembled for maintenance which is a big plus. Additionally the ebonite feed and nib can be swapped for #6 plastic ones at the FPR shop. Takes about one and a half turns to uncap and Jaipur posts deep and secure. I totally love this. The pen is light at 19.5 grams on my coffee scale. How does it feel?Imagine a light Pelikan M800ish/Lamy Safari sized pen with a very slight tapered grip ending at a very clear and useful ink window. Add an ultra flex steel cut out shouldered nib tuned with an ebonite feed backed by unencumbered volume of piston full of ink. Finally, finally I have converted and firsthand witnessed the praise of pleasurable FPR affordable flex writing. I dare say it is up there with 4x more expensive 14K Gold Jowo flex. Unlike my first stutterings with Himalaya v2, Jaipur v2 wrote straight out of the box no problems. No flushing of feeds or heat settings or bum leaky convertors. I just rinsed the nib and .... WTH!! Let's backtrack... I received shipping at work and could not wait to get home to ink the baby up. Everything check out: no defects and superb build quality, piston worky if not a bit stiff. Knock on wood, I got one from the good batch?! then I came home all hot and bothered in the FP heat phase when to my surprise, I could not undo the blind cap. Blind cap? What's that you say? Well unlike a regular piston converter like Montblanc 146, Pelikan M series, Sailor Realo, etc etc FPR Jaipur v2 has a beautifully thin crafted end cap that the user screws to reveal the actual ribbed piston knob. Clockwise knobbing fills and counter will dispense. I could not get the dang thing off and then I heard a rattle sound and saw separation from the piston mechanism and barrel. We were not dealing with a captured converter here. So just before I'm ready to make love with my new pen, i dun brok it?!@ WTH!@#$ No amount of silicone gripper oven mitt strength twisting would undo the blind cap to access the knob for ink filling! I was really upset as I was not sure I was either tightening the blind cap or loosening it. It would not budge and so I had a pen that could not fill unless I syringed from the nib end which unscrews for nib swaps; basically Jaipur as a crappy eyedropper. Then I remembered FPR introductory video and rewatched for the direction of the twists during the Jaipur overview. https://youtu.be/rkX1p47KbM4 I ended up untwisting out the whole piston assembly then I was able to get better purchase on the blind cap and free it to expose the piston knob. But now I had a piston part to reattach. Luckily I was able to rescrew it back in and get the piston working again. I could filler up! Writing, writing and writingJaipur v2 chews ink up and I love it.Finally can go full plow and refill to use up ink stash. Akkerman Garuda Rood - wet juicy yumCrappy De Atramentis Bamboo Green ink sample - feather like crazy but still juicy though had a couple of skips and hard startsDiluted Organic Studio Nitro also sold at FPR - WOW BAM POW! that and Akkerman have been stellar. I dunno maybe it's the piston volume and not that skinny skank convertor of the Himalaya v2 but the Jaipur v2 feels like a homerun on the writing experience. Page after A5 page, I can just gush and pour without issue with the right ink. The only negatives were the super tightening of the blind cap which I did not truly did not over tightened which I "fixed" with silicone grease ?! to the inner threads AND hard to turn, stiff piston which I hope to fix with silicone grease to the ink chamber though I kinda don't want to mess up the honeymoon by unscrewing the nib and potentially ruins it!! In all, Jaipur v2 is a worthy flagship and I prefer it over my 2 Himalaya v2s: 1 good and the other meh . No heat setting, flushing, leaking, etc. I just fill and write now. As a true testament to this pen, I bought another one at the time of this reviewlet, this time in blue acrylic to see if it holds up to this faithful ebonite version. Hey, need more data points? Here's YouTuber Larry of Larry's Fountain Pens with a word: https://youtu.be/Rj2_eDTcSDU Peace out, write on!
  13. Hello, I'd like to share a question about disassembling the piston mechanism on Pelikan 400NN Merz&Krell. I got one today, literally covered in dirt and dust. After few hours of soaking in lukewarm distilled water, I could easily take apart the nib assembly, the collar, the feed, clean and re-set the nib, put everything back together, ink it and write test it. To my surprise, I found it to be in mint condition, perhaps used once and set aside, than forgotten for 40 years. The only thing I was afraid to mess with was taking apart the piston assembly. It isn't a matter of whether I really needed it, I prefer learning how to do it. I understand it is right-threaded (=normal-threaded), but I see no clue for unscrewing it. Is there someone who could give me detailed instructions on how to do it? Should I turn it past the point of having pushed the piston all the way down? I see no dried ink traces on the "wrong side of the piston". These pens are rather scarce, so I haven't done this before and I am afraid of applying force which could break the differential system on this beautiful pen. Any expert hint will be more than welcome. Thanks in advance!
  14. Gutbucketeer

    Do-Write Piston Filler

    I have been cleaning up a Do-Write Piston filler that I won on Ebay. See the pictures. I have been able with soaking, and ultrasonic cleaning to get the nib and feed out, and get it pretty much cleaned of old ink. However, the old simple piston is now detached from the plunger seal and can come all the way out. So here is my question. How can I open the pen up to replace the plunger sealer? Were these old piston fillers glued at both ends, or does one end screw into the barrel? If they were glued in were they typically glued using glue I can heat and loosen or not? You can see at the end of the pen a ring around it where the barrel and screw part for the endcap meet. Or will I have to saw the pen in two and then add an insert to reseal it? It will be fun to try to get the pen working again, but It may end up being just for parts. JAB
  15. hari317

    M101 N Piston Assembly.

    Was getting stiff after nearly 9 years since purchased new. Homemade 7.8mm spanner. LH threads. Another way to do is from nib unit end. Easy access and no tools needed. But I prefer to remove the filler on pens its possible on and grease the seal walls. Ymmv. Hope the pics help someone else attempting DIY.
  16. Kalikrates

    Possible To Fully Fill Twsbi Eco?

    This is probably a very naive question, but I have gotten hold of a TWSBI eco which is the very first piston filler I try (and by the way, great nib for the price), so please bear with me. When I fill it, the piston sucks ink from the bottle but it also sucks air, i.e., like half of the barrel gets filled with ink and the other half is empty (or in other words, the ink level goes up slower than the piston, for every 2 mm that the piston goes up, I get 1 mm of ink). Its this just a physical limitation with piston fillers and "just the way it is", or am I doing something wrong and the barrel should fill fully?
  17. I wish I had too many dollars, but I do have too many Dollars! I'm speaking, of course, of the piston-filler and syringe-filler versions of these neat fountain pens from Pakistan. http://hisnibs.com/images/Indian/Dollar/DollarBurgundy717iCapTop.jpg I've carried these terrific, inexpensive pens for quite a few years -- and they've always been popular sellers. However, I recently took possession of a large quantity at one time -- and want to move them quickly. It benefits me, and for a limited time, it really benefits you. These models have been entry-level priced at $15.00 for the pistons and $10.00 for the syringes since...well, forever. At that price they've always been great pens to introduce someone to what a piston-filler or syringe-filler fountain pen is all about. They also make great knock-around pens. Well, for a limited time (basically, until I make a significant dent in this huge supply I've received), I'm offering them to you for $5.00 each! See the details in my newsletter here. http://hisnibs.com/images/Miscellaneous/Alignable%20award.png http://hisnibs.com/images/Miscellaneous/Teresa%20at%20pen%20show.jpg I also won a little award last week for sharing a business story. As it involved an incident at a pen show, I thought I'd share it here.
  18. essayfaire

    Twsbi Go Review (Brief)

    I recently have become very interested in the different filling mechanisms used in fountain pens. As a result, when the TWSBI Go was introduced with a spring-loaded piston mechanism at a reasonable (under US$20) price, I decided to order my first TWSBI. The Go is made of solid-feeling plastic. I like that everything on it feels nice and tight. The pen is a bit short, and I find the width a bit wide for the length of pen. It doesn't really seem to be intended for use posted, which is how I usually write (unless the pen is Capless). This is a demonstrator pen, so everything is on display from the spring that is responsible for drawing the ink to the large ink reservoir (making it easy to see what color is inside). it feels much more substantial in the hand then similar clear plastic pens. I purchased an F nib, which seems to be appropriately labeled. Not particularly smooth, but not scratchy either. I also like that the pen is tapered towards the nib; it makes the width of the pen more suitable (at least for my hand). Pros: LARGE ink reservoir, interesting and fun filling mechanism, price, seems pretty leak-proof Cons: A bit inelegant, a bit wide, the nib is just adequate Bottom Line: Though I like the filling mechanism and ink capacity of this pen, I don't expect to use it often. I did fall in love with the new ink I opened at the same time, however!
  19. mns68

    Omas Piston !

    Hi all Today I received a NOS OMAS Ogiva 555-S but unfortunately the piston did not move at all ... it looks that it is very much stuck in its place Any suggestion or solutions please Thanks
  20. I already posted same topic in Repair Q&A forum, but didn't get clear answer. According to the advice of senior member of the forum I am re-posting it here in hope someone who know the answer will see it. Another piston problem... I am not sure how to remove piston mechanism from Montblanc 264 fountain pen. I tried to unscrew it, but it does not go. I am afraid to use more force... Is there any special tool to remove it or I should just use more force. May the force be with you!
  21. This last year saw the arrival on the market of a number of new piston filling fountain pen from mainland China. Two of the pens have the Wing Sung name, the 698 and the 3003, and the third I am going to discuss is the Caliarts Ego. Two others that I know of are by Lanbitou and PenBBS. I now have one of each (two of the 3008) and thought I would do a compare and contrast of these three pens. The Wing Sung 3008 was the first of the three pens I bought, and the cheapest. These pens come with a Lamy Safari style nib, in F and EF. The pen holds a little over 1 ml of ink. The cap doesn’t have an inner cap, but there is an o-ring on the body at the base of the cap thread. This seals against a shelf inside the cap and stops the nib from drying out, at least over a few days. The barrel has 16 facets and is slightly tapered towards the far end. The end cap on this model doesn’t lock, and there is always a bit of slack. In practice, though, I have not had any problems with inadvertent leaks, in spite of carrying it to work in my shirt pocket for a couple of weeks. The piston assembly is retained by a ring at the top of the barrel. Undoing this ring allows the whole piston assembly to be easily removed for cleaning and lubrication. As mentioned the pen uses a Lamy Safari style slip-on nib which is interchangeable with a real Safari nib. The feed is relatively long, and has a key at the bottom so it can only be put back in one way. Apart from the loose blind cap, the only other problem this pen has is that the screw head inside the cap that holds the finial and clip on gets rusty. Overall, this is an inexpensive pen that feels good in the hand and has been a reliable and robust worker. The Caliarts Ego was the next pen to arrive. This pen comes with a Pilot 78G style nib but the feed is a little different. I had ordered mine with a Fine nib, but it came with a second, EF, nib and a spare feed. This pens holds about 2 ml of ink, and along with the Fine nib, should mean quite a lot of writing between fills. Like the 3008, there is no inner cap, but there is the cap-sealing o-ring on the barrel. The cap is a very simple affair and, I think, detracts from the pen a little. However, you can now get the Ego with coloured finial and end cap, and these look much more attractive. The finial screws into a threaded extension at the top of the cap, so there are no holes in the cap at all. The section and barrel are all one piece, as it is on the 3008. There is no metal ring on the end of the section, as there is on the 3008. I don’t like metal rings on the ends of sections, as I have had them leak (Jinhao 159, I’m looking a you, here…) The body of the pen is very sleek, with the only break from the end cap to the end of the section being the barrel threads. These are much less prominent than on the 3008. There is no lock on the end cap, but it does screw down firmly and then doesn’t move. The step from the end cap to the barrel is quite smooth, almost as smooth as on a Lamy 2000 or Parker 51 Vacumatic. The pen comes with a little wrench to unscrew the piston mechanism. However, others have said that the plastic flats inside are quite soft and easy to damage, so I haven’t disassembled mine yet. I tried both the EF and F nibs that came with the pen, and they were both excellent, very smooth, especially for their width. I did have to make some adjustments to the F nib, as it was a bit too wet for my taste. Others might like it as it is. Then, using it on hard, smooth Japanese showed up another problem – skipping due to excessive baby-bottom. This didn’t show up earlier on softer, more fibrous, Chinese paper. Using the fine surface of a nail buffing pad I removed a tiny bit of metal, then buffed on the other side. This nib is now perfect, butter smooth for a Fine, Asian nib. Note that this was only a problem because of the combination of my nib preferences and my paper. Others might find they have no problems. The Wing Sung 698 was the most recent acquisition (I have only had it for a couple of days). It is available in various colour schemes, and I got mine in transparent with gold fittings. This pen is the 3008 made properly. It has a Pilot style nib, compared to the other’s Lamy Safari style nib, and both nib and feed are interchangeable with those of a Pilot 78G. In addition, the section unscrews completely for thorough cleaning, if necessary. Unlike the overly simple cap of the Caliarts Ego, the WS 698’s cap is an impressive affair. There is a solid metal ring near the base, surrounding, and presumably reinforcing the cap threads. The finial is solid metal, held on by a large, possibly aluminium, flat-head screw. Unlike the other two pens, the 698 has an inner cap which seals against a chamfer at the end of the section. The o-ring on the body has been replaced by a metal spacer ring between the section and barrel. The body is cylindrical, with the piston assembly held in by a metal ring, as on the 3008. However the end cap has a locking mechanism, where two keys on the cap mate with two slots in the ring. The cap then clicks into place when you push it down. I bought mine with a Medium nib, which equates to a Western (i.e. Parker) Fine. You can also get it in F and EF, and spare nibs in all three sizes are available on eBay. Nibs The nibs on these pens are not up to the standard of a proper Japanese nib, and even the genuine Lamy Safari and Pilot 78G nibs are better than what comes with these pens. However, the nibs are quite reasonable, and all wrote straight out of the box, unless you are as fussy as I am about nibs. See the last paragraph in the Ego section. Dimensions Below is a table of dimensions for the three pens. As you can see, they are very similar. The weights are with the pens empty, so you would add about 1 g for the two Wing Sungs when full, and about 2 g for the Caliarts. Pictures Capped, from the top, Caliarts Ego, Wing Sung 698, Wing Sung 3008 Uncapped, from the top, Caliarts Ego, Wing Sung 698, Wing Sung 3008 In Conclusion Of the three pens, the Caliarts Ego is my favourite. The 3008 has value in being the cheapest of the pens, while being a robust and reliable pen. Its only real fault is the rusting screw head in the cap. The 698 is, as said, the 3008 made properly, and is a good-looking pen that works well. The Ego, however, is functionally flawless, is good-looking and feels good in the hand. Being able to swap nibs around, and get replacement ones, for all three pens, is a bonus.
  22. enchiridion

    Omas Extra Piston Problem

    I have a problem with an Omas extra from about 1946. The turning nob will no set and the piston turns too far so the upper part gets stuck in the barrel. any suggestions?
  23. frr149

    Pelikan M400 Broken Piston

    Hi, I have a vintage m400 whose piston is broken. The casing of the piston is in 2 pieces. How can I fix this? Can I buy a new piston casing? Thanks!
  24. cynegils

    Montblanc 149 Leak Piston

    Hi everyone, I am new to the fountain pen network but have already used the large knowledge base here to guide my recent purchase of a used Montblanc 149 from the 90s. I'm very grateful for the the useful information here. Unfortunately, I may not have read quite enough. The pen arrived yesterday from an antiques store in Spain (I'm in NYC). It came with a little ink inside so I used the pen and found it writes wonderfully. However, while flushing the pen for the first time, I noticed there is a considerable amount of ink on the screws of the piston as you can see in the picture I included (that is supposed to be a shiny brass screw!). Also, I noticed that after a day of flushing, it is still not coming out clear, although it is significantly improving. More importantly, I tried to dry it by surrounding the nib with lint free wipes, and it seems like it could be leaking from either the red arrow, or blue arrow region in the picture of the nib, although I am not sure of this. Is this where a leak would/could form? It seems like there is ink everywhere inside. Most importantly, can this be fixed? If I took it apart, and cleaned and greased the different parts, would this fix whatever is wrong? If not, I'll be trying to return this.
  25. praxim

    Rebuild Keyway

    I have a recently arrived Soennecken which will allow only very short piston travel, about the length of the ink window or less. Taking it apart, the piston mechanism uses a key on the piston running in a recessed keyway inside the barrel. Examining inside the barrel, I could see that the plastic is slightly fractured on the clockwise (from the back) edge of the keyway. What happens is that the piston draws up then the key enters the fractured section to the side, under torque from the piston knob, and jams there having no further straight path up. A bit like a train accidentally diverting to a siding with no exit route. The first obvious possibility is to rebuild the fractured section, perhaps with an epoxy. The difficulty will be to keep the barrel concentric and to shape the edge sharply. Fiddling around a couple of centimetres down an 8.5 mm barrel, I am not confident of that being a great success, if there is a better resort. Has anyone experience of this type of repair? What worked? I could ask the vendor for money back on the pen sold as already restored (they replaced the cork seal). I prefer to make things work if I can.





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