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  1. fpupulin

    The Arco Photo Thread

    Long due thread... In a page devoted to Italian pens, this topic is calling all the expressions of one of the most recognizable Italian materials ever used in fountain pens: the mythical Arco celluloid! Made worldwide famous by the Officine Meccaniche Armando Simoni (OMAS) in Bologna in their Extras and Paragons, Milords and Princesses and Damas, and proposed here and there by other brands and independent manufacturers, the Arco celluloid is the quintessence of "italianity" in pens: warm, refined, flamboyant and unique. Judging by the prices fetched by Arco celluloid pens in these days, is seems that the "Arco fever" is strongest than ever, and I can understand why... Let me begin with a few photos of some of my Arco:
  2. sansenri

    Death Of An Omas

    OK, so, I knew this was coming. Perhaps I was not expecting so soon, but I knew this was the direction things had taken. I was actually discussing about this pen, and the status it was in, in another thread here not too many days ago. When I bought this pen in early 2015 I knew something was wrong with it, because the price was so cheap, and some deterioration was already evident. Then again I liked it so much and was not prepared to pay the above euro 1000 it was selling mint already at that time (and earlier). The Galileo Galilei pen was released in 1993 in a limited edition of 4,692 pieces to celebrate the 650th anniversary of the University of Pisa, but the wild celluloid used is one of those for which deterioration issues have been reported often. I was not wise enough not to pick this up then, the visible defect was mostly aesthetic and I though I could easily live with it for such a nice pen. The first issue showed up immediately, when the pen arrived the nib in the section was loose, and came out. I had the pen checked by Brunori, a respected shop in Milano (now closed...), the nib collar in ebonite had disintegrated, but he had spares and replaced it for me. Due to the defect I obtained a further extra discount from the seller (a now untraceable noushop1963 not sure whether on the bay or on some other local site) making this purchase as cheap as a resin Omas, back then. Now I know that disintegrated collar was probably the first alarm bell I should have listened to. I'm not complaining, though, I've happily used the pen, and the slight warping in the celluloid sort of reminded me the pen was actually alive... It was. Here a couple of pictures of the pen still in relatively good health... If you enlarge the photos (click on them) you can see however that degradation had already started. The brass ring on the finial is corroded and green, some corrosion is also visible on the greek on the cap. It's really difficult to spot the warping in the celluloid in the middle of the barrel, but you could feel it under the fingers. At any rate, when I started noting the corrosion I documented myself more about the problems with decaying celluloid and out-gassing, and the specific issues with the wild celluloid (in some specimens, not all, note there are still quite a lot of wild celluoid Omas pens that are perfectly fine) and sure enough I convinced myself that it what was happening to my Galileo. I cleaned the pen from corrosion and isolated it from other pens (especially other celluloid pens). I started using it more regularly, to sort of better enjoy it's uncertain health, but I noted that corrosion would continue, and the pen would start forming a slightly sticky patina on it's body... I also noted that the pen had started acting strangely on my inks... one of the blue inks I put in it became purple... Water I put in it turned yellowish... The pen, stored in an open carboard box on a shelf, stained the cloth inside the box, forming a pen shaped greyish stain... (I've called it my personal sindone...) I had not totally given up using it, so a couple of days ago I picked it up for a washing and refill. When I tried turning the filling knob the celluloid body snapped in half in my hands... This is the poor body I'm sorry for these heartbreaking images. I'm feeling as in loss of a close relative (well, ok, almost...). Probably the nib needs to be salvaged, I have not yet managed to pull it out, I think I need to unscrew the section, I've noted it turns although it's very stiff. For the moment though I just need some comfort...
  3. Well said, from the Omas web site, here: OMAS is pleased to introduce the 360 SOLETERRE, a special creation realized in limited and numbered 360 pieces only, made to support education rights of children in Morocco, Ivory Coast and San Salvador, thanks to SOLETERRE.org For every 360 SOLETERRE purchased, OMAS will donate its profits to Soleterre and finance together the “education rights”. Buy your 360 SOLETERRE before October, 31st and receive your fountain pen at no delivery charge and with an ink bottle free of charge. The 360 SOLETERRE is available on OMAS.com exclusively with an Extra Fine 14carat gold nib. One of our own FPN members, Newton Pens, supports students with pen sales, and it is great to see Omas doing even a little bit, globally Free global shipping through 10/31 and what appears to be a pretty orange ink, too. I'm a big fan of demonstrators and the 360 line, and wish our dealers carried it (I checked first with Chatterly, where I've had the finest service). It's available direct only. Here's some pictures, enjoy!
  4. captain1796

    Omas 360 Proto

    So Id like some input. I found and ordered an Omas 360 piston fill. This is the large size. I bought this pen to use and not abuse, but. not worry about scratching either. So Im looking at it, and its marked 000/360 PROTO. So now based on how expensive these pens are, Im wondering if I should just stash it away. The pen was probably unused before I inked it. Looking forward to your opinions.
  5. Hi all, I have an opportunity to buy a barely used Omas 360 Mezzo for about $400 and was hoping to get views of the community before proceeding with the purchase. 1. Is $400 a fair price for this model? 2. Durability of the cartridge system - I've read numerous posts on the forum about the mechanism giving in after a certain period of usage. Any views on the longevity of this mechanism? What happens if it breaks? Between all the 360 models, I prefer the Mezzo the most and the only thing I'm not sure about is the mechanism. (also will have to do a nib regrind as I like a fine point instead of the broader nib available in this deal) Appreciate any other views about the pen as well! Especially if you are a long term user of it. Much appreciated, Sidd
  6. Hi all, just wanted to hear your views about the Arco supply / demand. I remember few years back when ASC launched their first pen with the arco material. There was a buzz in the community and in their marketing about how there are only a few rods remaining for the Arco material. Fast forward to 2021, I still see a lot of models made in Arco both from ASC brands and also from the likes of Leonardo. My personal view is that the price of any item is what people are willing to pay for it. But I write this post wondering how the overall messaging has been on the supply / availability of this material compared to the actual steady supply of Arco pens since Omas. That said I'm still on the lookout for an Oldwin Arco Verde (not ASC version)! cheers Sidd
  7. I have been using fountain pens since 1976. That time it was primarily hero pens and mostly locally manufactured moulded pens, the brand names I find hard to remember. Most of these pens were of two filling categories only, sac filler(mostly made in China) and ED. Thereafter I graduated to Parker and continued using a few of them till 2019 on and off. Meanwhile got facsinated by Ballpens, netters, jitters, Gel pens, roller pens etc. Came 2018. I still had three Parker Vectors, one each for using Blue, black/green and red inks respectively. I came across an article on Ratnamsons and history of fountain pen turned in india. This made me search for manufacturers in India and I thought of reviving my love for Fountain pens. Thus I jumped headfirst in acquiring all I could lay my hands on and in the process became friends with many turners and became aware of their products too. Subsequently I graduated to use of flex nibs and dip nibs. I got interested in calligraphy fonts and cursive writing. That will be a different post. Currently I will focus on three pens from different brands using flexible nibs Magnacarta Emotions with stock flex steel nib, Kanwrite heritage with KANWRITE Fine flex steel nib and LOTUS pen with Kanwrite 14k Gold flex nib. The LOTUS pen is part of a limited edition initiative by Fountain pen lovers of India with 50 pens only made . These three pens when I started flexing, I realised that even in steel flex nibs, the amount of pressure required to assert pressure was different. It required lot of efforts to flex Magnacarta vis a vis KANWRITE Heritage. The LOTUS pen with gold nib was but easier.
  8. Valentino

    Omas Lucens 1936

    I am new to vintage pens. This one just came in. I do not know if it is working properly and I would also like to clean it. The pump moves up and down very easily. Is that good? I tried loading it with water. Not sure it does anything. Do you guys know how I can open it up? The pin of the cap, seems to be plated with gold, but there are ware marks on it. Is there a way to replace it with a new pin? The nib seems to be in pristine shape. It has a very intense yellow color. The cap screw spins less than a full turn for a full lock or unlock. Is this a sign of ware, or is this how it was built? And if it is a sign of ware, can it be fixed? The pen is a very nice one, I am very excited to start using it.
  9. I like celluloid, Omas, vintage (and of course modern too)... For a long time I resisted getting a vintage Omas Cracked Ice. The combination of the rare pattern and vintage Omas makes it quite expensive to acquire a senior sized or even a mid sized Omas Cracked Ice. I also have a vintage Conway Stewart Cracked Ice, which is considered one of the most attractive Conway Stewart patterns (along with Herringbone, Tiger Eye etc). So I convinced myself that I didn't need an Omas Cracked Ice. That is until the right moment came. Recently I was able to acquire a vintage Omas Cracked Ice in the lady/ring-top size. As I understand, the Omas is made of celluloid (cellulose nitrate) and Conway Stewart of cellulose acetate. Here I made some photographic comparisons. Some background notes: The Omas Cracked Ice pattern is known for discolouration. Most of the pens in this pattern are found in various discolouration on the barrel. Zero discolouration is extremely rare, as this celluloid (and indeed any "trasparente" patterns) is very sensitive to acidic ink. So my Omas is no exception, though I consider the discolouration here modest. I have seen better and some worse. 1. Both pens capped. Omas ring-top, 10cm long. Conway Stewart No. 24, 13.2cm long. 2. Nib side pattern comparison. 3. Feed side pattern comparison. 4. Omas nib side discolouration. 5. Omas feed side discolouration comparison. 6. Conway Stewart Cracked Ice cap and barrel, in cellulose acetate, no discolouration. 7. The "dark sides" of Omas Cracked Ice: Similar to the Arco pattern, the Omas Cracked Ice also has two "dark sides". This is what I love about this Omas version, that you can see that the Cracked Ice is revealed through cross-cutting the pearl like flakes in the celluloid, much like leaves in a pond! These "dark sides" are more intriquing than those of Arco in this aspect. I hope you find the above informative! I've always enjoyed handling a vintage 🙂.
  10. Hello everyone, I had asked this question on the Italy forum, but did not get any reply, so hopefully someone will be able to help here. I just bout this three (NoS) Omas Deskpens (Two 556T and one 583T), the pistons are extremely stiff and not moving. I need help on how to disassemble the pistons to grease them. Thank you in advance. Best regards, Northstar
  11. the scribo feel has nibs that are reputedly made using the same machines as the omas paragon nibs - is there anyone here with representatives of these nibs for a head to head comparison? the metallurgy would be different considering the scribo nibs are split between 14k and 18k whilst the paragon seems to only come in 18k.
  12. Does anyone here own an Omas old style Arte Italiana roller and can tell me the refill code? The Omas refills are no longer available but I believe Schmidt makes compatible refills, however I need the Omas refill code. I am planning on buying this roller used, but want to ensure I can find the refills (Schmidt makes several different refills compatible with different Omas roller pens). I can also ask some of the pen shops to advise the correct refill, but I am giving a try here first... thanks!
  13. I had posted this thread a few days ago in a different area of FPN. Perhaps best in Regional Forum under Italian pens. Would appreciate if anyone has seen this kind of nib imprint and knows what it is. Many thanks!! ---------- I had the pleasure of seeing a very nice vintage fountain pen during a recent dinner with a friend. The pen belonged to the his late grandfather. It is an Omas Extra lever filler with marbled brown celluloid. I love looking at any vintage pens, and noticed that the nib is not the usual Omas vintage nib. It has a kind of sheep(?) imprint on the nib with "14K-585" and "OSMIUM" on it. I didn't write with it, but I tried on my thumb nail and it feels very soft and flexible, a typical wonderful vintage nib of that era. With the permission of my friend, I posted the photos of this pen in the hope that someone might know what this interesting-looking replacement nib is. Many thanks!! By the way, I had offered to restore (lever is stuck and also needs new sac for sure) and polish this pen for my friend, but he doesn't want. Nib is patinated but he doesn't want to get it polished either. He wants to leave the pen as how it was when he received it, and only uses it as a dip pen. I understand.
  14. ernieh

    My Omas Fountain Pens

    Hello there, Just wish to share a couple of pictures of two Omas pens I have. I bought the first one on an auction website many years ago and I forgot the details of this pen. Can anyone tell me what model it is? What I recall is it was made of cotton resin. The second one was given to me by my uncle, by then I was not so into fountain pen and had no idea what Omas was at all... I have tried to look up more information about this pen but did not succeed. Is this kind of special edition of Omas x Zenith? From the smell of pen body the material appears to be celluloid. Welcome your insight.
  15. Hello everyone! Some of you may recall that upon hearing that OMAS had ceased to exist, I decided to try to assemble a complete collection of my all-time favorite pen: the OMAS 360. Taking into account only color, size, materials and specially-branded editions - and thus making abstraction of trim colors, type (FP vs RB) and the presence of precious stones - I was able to inventory a total of 53 different versions of the OMAS 360. Of these, I currently own 51. The ones I like to use and carry with me most of the time (Titanium, Burkina, Snakewood and Ebony), I actually have in double and triple, respectively - just in case they were to get lost, damaged or stolen. A few others I have in both HT/Ag and YG trim versions (standard Blue/Black, Smoke, Lucens and Arco Brown), as I think that the pens look very different with different trims. Finally, I also have a few doubles, just because things happened that way (MoMa Red, Vision Amber, and Mezzo FIGC). Today I thought I would share with you a few quick pictures I took this morning as I was getting the pens organised... I hope you will enjoy seeing them. The complete collection, including a few doubles: http://a.lber.to/post/1_All.jpg The Oversize pens: http://a.lber.to/post/2_Oversize.jpg - Blue/Black, HT Trim - Black, YG Trim ("Tabellionis Stylus", the only true black 360 OMAS ever made, for the Italian Notary Association) The Cotton Resin pens: http://a.lber.to/post/3_CottonResin.jpg Top row: - Blue/Black, YG Trim - Blue/Black, HT Trim - Venician Blue, HT Trim - Grey, GT Trim - Burgundy, HT Trim ("Erasmus CLE") - Pearlescent Purple, RG Trim (Prototype which was never actually produced) - Red, HT Trim - Green, HT Trim ("75th Anniversary") - Colonial Brown, YG Trim (IMOHO, the ugliest 360 OMAS ever made...) - Yellow, HT Trim - White, HT Trim ("75th Anniversary") Bottom row: - Orange/Red, HT Trim ("TAG Heuer") - Yellow, HT Trim ("Bittner") - Black, HT 3-band Trim ("MoMa") - Red, HT 3-band Trim ("MoMa") - Orange, HT 3-band Trim ("75th Owner's Club") The Translucent pens: http://a.lber.to/post/4_Translucent.jpg - Smoke, Ru Trim ("Vintage") - Blue, RG Trim ("Vintage") - Smoke, YG Trim ("Vintage") - Brown, YG Trim ("ZENITH") - Turquoise, HT Trim ("Vintage") - Orange, HT Trim ("Soleterre") - Red, HT Trim ("Vintage") - Amber, YG Trim ("Vision Bronze") - Clear, HT Trim ("Vision") The Celluloid pens: http://a.lber.to/post/5_Celluloid.jpg - Burkina, Ag Trim - Arco Brown, YG Trim (Prototype pen with Greek band on cap, never produced) - Arco Brown, YG 3-band Trim - Lucens, Ag 3-band Trim - Lucens, YG 3-band Trim - Wild, HT 3-band Trim - Wild, HT Trim - Blue Royal, HT Trim - Pearl Grey, HT Trim Missing from photo: - Arco Brown, HT Trim The Metal and Wood pens: http://a.lber.to/post/6_Metal-Wood.jpg - Illumination, Silver - First Personal Computer, Aluminum ("FPC") - T2, Titanium - Snakewood, Ag Trim - Ebony, Ag Trim The Mezzo pens: http://a.lber.to/post/7_Mezzo.jpg - Blue/black, HT trim - Pearlescent Blue, HT trim - Blue, HT trim - Light Blue, HT trim ("FIGC") - Purple, HT trim - Pearlescent Liliac, HT trim - Liliac, HT trim - Red, HT trim ("Camera dei Deputati") - Red, HT trim - Orange, HT trim - Yellow, HT trim - Green, HT trim - White, HT trim Missing from photo: - Light Blue, HT Trim
  16. handlebar

    Back In The Game After Years!

    Formerly known here as "handlebar", my new name is more apropos as Celticshaman. After many years away from the pen world and all that entails, I have slowly been working my way back. Work, life, my business (photography ...Dragon Digital Photography) and other interests crept in and stole away most of my time. And, the industry was changing, not for the better. Coming back now, I see a LOT has changed!! I still have some penpals (always looking for new ones if interested!) and getting back into pens,ink,paper and the history of writing. I reopened my once archived Omas group on Facebook for anyone interested. https://www.facebook.com/groups/200590740889/ I look forward to getting caught up !! Seumas Dòmhnal Ross
  17. Jason Oliver

    Oh, The Wonder...

    Why every fountain pen isnt made of Italian celluloid is a mystery Ill never understand. Such a wonderfully beautiful material
  18. I had the pleasure of seeing a very nice vintage fountain pen during a recent dinner with a friend. The pen belonged to the his late grandfather. It is an Omas Extra lever filler with marbled brown celluloid. I love looking at any vintage pens, and noticed that the nib is not the usual Omas vintage nib. It has a kind of sheep(?) imprint on the nib with "14K-585" and "OSMIUM" on it. I didn't write with it, but I tried on my thumb nail and it feels very soft and flexible, a typical wonderful vintage nib of that era. With the permission of my friend, I posted the photos of this pen in the hope that someone might know what this interesting-looking replacement nib is. Many thanks! By the way, I had offered to restore (lever is stuck and also needs new sac for sure) and polish this pen for my friend, but he doesn't want. He wants to leave the pen as how it was when he received it, and only uses it as a dip pen. I understand.
  19. In the past I I read with interest write-ups about one's collection. I thought to share mine as I am reflecting on the hobby. I have been heavily invested into fountain pens since 2005. Do not ask me why. I just got the bug. Initially focused on collecting, then in more recent years trying to find the perfect writers. I think I can now narrow down my inseparable fountain pens into the following 15. Let me share with you what makes them special to me. I will start from the left: 1. Visconti Ripple in Blue Silver (BB Palladium nib): this is a classic early model from Visconti (not to be confused with the equally appealing Watermark) with a silver overlay that is colored in blue with a technique used in the auto-industry. At that time, it was quite a feat. One of Del Vecchio's creations. The added bonus is the double broad palladium nib, smooth and stubbish. It is an heavy pen but I do not mind. Provenance: Peytonstreet Pens (2018). 2. Visconti Ripple Carbon Fiber (M Palladium nib). This was a collaboration between Visconti and an Italian company specializing in carbon fiber for sport cars (Carbon Dream, the logo of Carbon Dream appears on the cap finial). The nib has a very good flow and it is a pleasure to write with. Provenance: private seller in China. 3. Visconti Opera Master Demo (18K F Nib). This is another classic model, quite heavy, and the surprise was the nib. I do not usually like fine nibs but this is really wet and leaves a satisfying line on the paper. Provenance: Eurobox in Tokyo. 4. Visconti Homo Sapiens London Fog (M Palladium nib). It is one of the most balanced models in terms of lenght and weight. Born to write. The gray swirls to me are very attractive aesthetically. The nib has a very good flow (almost a and comes with a hint of feedback that is not bad. Provenance: private seller from Spain. 5. Visconti Homo Sapiens Jade (14k B nib modified). This might look like a boring repetition of the previous model, but it comes with a nib with a story. It is an old 14k nib, super smooth, that was modified by Nagahara Jr, a famous nibmeister previously working for Sailor, with his signature cut that provides line variation according to the angle you hold the pen. Perhaps just a gimmick if you do not write in Chinese or Japanese, but the nib is even smoother than before. Provenance: Martini Pens in Germany. 6. Pilot Custom Urushi Vermillion (B 18k nib). I remember how this model was talked about back in 2015 in stores in Tokyo before its release. It was much anticipated. A new model from Pilot does not happen every day. It turned out to be an oversize version of Pilot's previous flagship, the 845 Urushi, with a spectacular new nib, a number 30 nib (smaller than the Emperor's nib, but larger than the nib on the Yukary's pens). The nib is very bouncy, leading to flex (which I am not interested) and I love the generous flow. Provenance: Morita Pens in Osaka (2017). 7. Delta Dolcevita Piston Filler Maraviglia (BB 14k nib). I generally like Dolcevita pens from now-defunct Delta. But this is phenomenal because of the combination of a very attractive material (a turquoise celluloid) and the stubbish smooth BB nib. Provenance: ebay auction (from a former member of this board). 8. Sailor King of Pen Urushi Vermillion (B 21k Nib). I find the minimalist style and the size of this pen very attractive. One special feature: it never dries! I left the pen inked and untouched for months and would always write even after a long period of non-use. Super smooth nib. Provenance: Aesthetics Bay, Singapore (2016). 9. Nakaya Neo Standard Arai-shu (M 14k nib, reground). I have several Nakayas, but this is my favorite because of the nib. It came with a cursive italics nib that I hated (too crisp). A nibmeister during an event in Japan was able to smooth it and now is a beautiful medium stub, with very distinct line variation. Only downside, a lot of turns to open or close. Provenance: private seller on FPN market. 10. Hakase green celluloid and white buffalo horn (18k "stub" nib). Hakase is an artisan company in Tottori. The current maker is the third generation and basically he runs one-man operation. I first read about Hakase in this forum and I was left fascinated. Then one day actually I included Tottori in an itinerary in Japan and I ordered my first one (the next pen). This is my last Hakase, ordered during an event in Tokyo back in March 2018. Ryo Yamamoto, the current maker, is a very able nibmeister. All nibs were adjusted to my writing posture and they are all incredibly smooth. The writing experience with these nibs is very pleasant. 11. Hakase green celluloid (18k B nib). This is the model I ordered during my first encounter with Ryo in his shop in Tottori in 2015 (and delivered in Tokyo one year later). Magnificent smooth nib. I probably exaggerated by adding the possibility to post an already quite long pen. It can work as a desk pen. 12. Hakase in black buffalo horn (18k M nib). This is a very sleek and balanced model. The nib is M with a hint of stub, another extraordinarily unique nib. I ordered it in Tokyo in 2016 during the meeting to take delivery of the first pen and got it again in Tokyo in March 2017. 13. Omas Paragon gray celluloid 90th anniversary (18k BBB nib). I have been a big Omas fan and collector. For many years Omas pens were the only ones I ever used. Now I have only one in this definitive list, but there might have been more. The gray celluloid has some incredible depths and the faceted Paragon is just a timeless elegant design, according to my taste. The nib is an incredible stub, but very smooth. Provenance: trade with a collector in Taiwan (2018). 14. Pelikan M1000 with aftermarket raden decoration (18k F nib). This is my first Pelikan and it immediately made it to the list. The first reason is about aesthetics: the raden work is so clever. The raden was cut to resemble small nibs and they are perfectly arranged on the body and the cap. I immediately liked the creativity of this decoration. The raden work was made by Mr Iwase, a Japanese maker that is quite famous nowadays for these modifications. The second reason is that the F nib actually writes like an M with a very generous flow and meets my requirements. Provenance: Mr Iwase from a pen show (2019). 15. Newton Shinobi (with Omas 18k BB nib). This was a custom pen commissioned to Newton using one of his most popular models. My goal was to re-create a pen with an Omas vibe (hence the semi-transparent celluloid) and to host a terrific double broad Omas nib. The pen had some problems. I had to send it to a repairer that fixed it. Notwithstanding the ordeal, it still makes it to the list because of the nib (that I may transfer to a regular Omas pen in the future). Now, reflecting on the hobby, I think that I reached my level of satisfaction. It is more and more difficult to fall for a new pen, especially with a large collection of pens that do not get any use sitting on the side. I do not regret anything about my journey because apart from the occasional adrenaline rush, thanks to this hobby I made friends and I learnt about cultures and crafts.
  20. Hello FP wizards & Omas FP fans! I have a problem. (yeah, I know what you are thinkin ... too many pens ), but this particular issue has to do what I think is a Omas Extra 630 Demonstrator. I bought it as part of a grouping (one of two pens that induced me to buy the group of FP’s). The piston is stuck. It has traces of ink that have dried over the years. It will not budge, I gently tried to turn it. Not wanting to break or damage it I didn’t force it. I have soaked it in a tall glass bath of water and 2 squirts of liquid hand soap for 2 days. No movement. I have a choice to send back the all of the pens (which I would prefer not!), or tell the seller that it is not able to be repaired w/o professional FP fixer help and request a partial refund of the purchase price of the lot. I like the pen too much to give up that easily or to send back the lot. So, what say you? I have an Ultrasonic cleaner that I have used on other FP’s w/ success. Would you advise using this cleaner? I could simply continue to soak it, but it the water has not entered the piston chamber to dissolve the residual ink (a testament to the seal!) I am not expert at taking apart such a pen and wouldn’t risk damage to it by attempting to. Please, please let me know what you would advise! Pic’s: 1. The first was snagged off our friends Peyton Street Pens website, looks like my pen, although theirs was in pristine condition! PICS#: 2, 3 and 4 are the subject of discussion. Measurements: Capped: 5.25" or 133.35 mm ||| UnCapped: 4.34” or 110mm ||| Cap = 2.25” or 57.15mm Thank you for any comments, advise or predictions! George
  21. Brontosaurus Pluto

    Help Identifying Old Omas

    Hello, can anyone identify this Omas? I am thinking it is from the 60s and it is a piston filler with a steel nib. Pelikan and Platinum for size reference. Thanks!
  22. jhsd1124013561

    Omas 361 Disassembly & Restoration

    This artcile is to discuss about the disassembly and restoration of a regular line Omas 361, the piston which with a pin, should also work for the old model of Omas Paragon from the 1950s. I got a NOS Omas 361 and a vintage Omas Paragon from the 1950's recently, the piston filling system with a pin really make them special, and I really enjoyed the restoration work. Special thanks to Tom Westerich from http://penboard.de and Richard Binder from http://richardspens.com, enjoy! Pic 1. Green Box of Omas 361 Pic 2. Open Box of Omas 361 with Papers Pic 3. Detail of Omas 361 Papers - Front Pic 4. Detail of Omas 361 Papers - Back Pic 5. Nib Detail - 1 Pic 6. Nib Detail - 2 Pic 7. Nib Detail - 3 Pic 8. Nib Detail - 4 Pic 9. Cap Detail - 1 Pic 10. Cap Detail - 2 Pic 11. Cap Detail - 3 Pic 12. Barrel Detail Pic 13. Fully DisassemblyFrom left to right: a. Cap b. Barrel c. Piston Cork Unit d. Blind Cap e. Pin f. Feed g. Nib h. Hood To disassemble the nib and feed 1. heat the Part H(hood), then pull the Part H(hood) out of Part B(barrel) 2. you will see Part F(feed) and Part G(nib) in Part B(barrel) 3. heat the Part B(barrel) slightly, then carefully pull the Part F(feed) and Part G(nib) out To disassemble the piston 1. pull the Part E(pin) out in picture 14 2. uncrew the Part D(blind cap) out 3. pull the Part C(piston cork unit) out from the Part B(barrel) To restore 1. fully disassemble the pen following the steps above 2. apply scilion to the cork(replace the wooden cork if your pen comes with a wooden one) 3. put the Part C(piston cork unit) into the Part B(barrel) and mark the position of the pin hole (IMPORTANT!) 4. push the Part C(piston cork unit) all the way down of Part B(barrel) 5. screw the Part D(blind cap) on the Part B(barrel), make sure the pin hole on Part D(blind cap) match the position of the pin hole of Part C(piston cork unit) 6. push the Part C(piston cork unit) all the way to the top and make sure the pin hole of Part C(piston cork unit) and Part D(blind cap) are aligned 7. push the Part E(pin) through the pin hole of Part C(piston cork unit) and Part D(blind cap) 8. install the Part F(feed) and Part G(nib) to Part B(barrel) 9. install the Part H(hood) Pic 14. Pin
  23. mns68

    Omas Piston !

    Hi all Today I received a NOS OMAS Ogiva 555-S but unfortunately the piston did not move at all ... it looks that it is very much stuck in its place Any suggestion or solutions please Thanks
  24. I just purchased a modern Ancora pen and was doing a bit of research on the brand. I had known for a while that Ancora had purchased the OMAS brand (with the rodstock going to ASC and the equipment to SCRIBO) but this is the first I heard of actual plans to restart the OMAS name and models. To see the Paragon and 360 again would be incredible. They obviously don't have the OMAS celluloid to work with but Ancora has some incredible materials of their own so I am excited to see what they come up with. Plus all Ancora materials, including nibs, are machined in-house which brings that special OMAS flair in my opinion. Cool stuff. Link: http://ancora1919.com/history-and-production/. The OMAS info is at the end.
  25. enchiridion

    Omas Extra Piston Problem

    I have a problem with an Omas extra from about 1946. The turning nob will no set and the piston turns too far so the upper part gets stuck in the barrel. any suggestions?





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