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  1. troglokev

    Comparison of Pilot Elite nibs

    A long time ago, Ron Dutcher posted A Field Guide to Japanese Nibs in this forum. It is an excellent article, and if you haven't seen it, you should read it. I have some, but not all, and I thought people might be interested in a comparison of the nibs in use. Fine nib: Soft Fine nib: Posting nib: Script Nib: Manifold nib: Coarse nib:
  2. I have recently purchased a new box of nibs, Zebra comic G, for copperplate calligraphy. They're nibs I used in the past with happy results, very flexible and nice fine lines in my opinion. I used them with regular fountain pen inks (like Waterman, Pelikan, Lamy, MontBlanc and so on) but also with some self-made mixes and gum arabic. The old set worked just fine as soon as it was out of the box, no need for cleaning or set-up: they just held ink perfectly. This new box seems exactly the same, same finishing, and it was purchased by the same vendor. However the nibs don't hold ink properly: it will pool around the reservoir and refuse to flow towards the tip. When it does flow, it very often comes down all at once creating splotches. I tried different ones, so it's not just a faulty one of the box. I have tried cleaning them with: saliva - which had worked fine in the past with other nibs: slightly better, but the issue is definitely not solved water - no improvement, almost made the issue worse if possible flame - held it over a lighter, at first just a second, then when it was not working I held it for several seconds: again the situation got somewhat better, but it's not solved Things I heard but haven't tried yet: toothpaste - I'm afraid to ruin the tip: should I go for it? chemicals, like solvents: acetone, nitro thinner or simple kitchen degreaser - I really don't know what's going to happen with the metal and/or the ink. I'm not keen on playing the little chemist, so I'd rather leave this as a last resort. intervening on the ink - maybe some inks will solve this problem? Maybe they need to be thinner? Do you have any recommendation or low-risk methods I could try at first? I really want to solve this because I love these nibs and would be very sad to start looking for different kinds to fall in love with also I have a deadline coming up for a job and need to sort this out rather quickly! Thanks and apologies for my English.
  3. How do you store your pen spare parts, ink converters, etc.? My wife finally managed to get me to clean up some of my mess, ahead of friends visiting (which is quite rare for us). I have boxes of pen spare parts, standalone or replacement nibs and nib units, dip pen handles and nibs, ink cartridges and converters, tools (such as tiny wrenches) for pen maintenance, water brush pens, a stamping kit to produce an outline image on swatch cards, makeup applicators for swabbing ink, display stands for (photographing) swatch cards, surplus Chinese pens, dedicated cheap pens for holding certain iron-gall inks and pigment inks so that they're always on the ready, etc. All of which, until recently, used to sit in a precarious pile (or ‘tower’) on one of the unused dining chairs, and it's hard to either move them or hide them away from sight all at once. Just as well that I also have a hoard of ‘spare’ storage boxes, document trays, etc. This one proved suitable beyond my expectations, even though of course it couldn't hold all of that type of bits and bobs; I still have dozens of new Sailor, Platinum, and Pilot converters, as well as retail boxes of ink cartridges and new surplus (not just Chinese, but also Japanese and European) fountain pens filling up mini-crates and crammed into a huge drawer elsewhere. Take a guess how much stuff it holds for me! This is not nearly the “all laid out” view, when there are stacks and layers inside the smaller boxes themselves: All of the plastic boxes shown were bought in Daiso, with the exception of this one:
  4. Hi all. I am returning to the fountain pen world after some years, and I am trying to deepen my knowedge of the different types of nibs. I know about normal, italic, stub, music and so on, but I found in some sites the possibility to choose an "orb " nib (e.g. Orb 0.5). I made some researches here on the forum and elsewhere, but did not find a clear explanation. Could you provide some insights about this type of nib? Is it a subtype of the oblique nibs? Thanks.
  5. New to this forum. I have a Sailor Pro Gear slim with a extra scratchy nib. As Sailor is not having replacement nibs is there any possibility to put another nib from another manufacturer onto the feed? Such a pity replacement parts (nibs) for Japanese pens are not available. kind regards Michel
  6. danielpi

    Nib Manufacture

    For reference, here is a list of pen manufacturers and who supplies their nibs. I've gathered this from a lot of different sources (including older posts in FPN forums). I'll update and correct the list as I come across new data. There have been several earlier attempts to organize this information on FPN, but hopefully this is a bit more organized/centralized. For the record, I am aware (and should caution readers who are not) that not all Bock or JoWo nibs are the same. The mere fact that, e.g., Visconti and Omas both use "Bock manufactured nibs" does not mean, ipso facto, that they use the "same nib." In that particular case, the nibs are very different. Also, it is worth dispelling the mistaken notion that in-house nibs are “better” than Bock or JoWo nibs. This is patently untrue. Most high end pen-makers will do a lot of finishing after receiving pens from Bock or JoWo, which are already made to their unique specifications at the factory; they are merely taking advantage of the economies of scale offered by a dedicated nib manufacturer (the "artistry" of smoothing and finishing that give a brand's pens their unique "feel" is almost always done in-house by all pen-makers). That said, it is sometimes interesting who makes the nibs for whom, and to that end, I present the following list. Updated June 3, 2017. Organized by pen-maker: Brand Current Nib Supplier Historical Sources Ancora In-House Aurora In-House Bexley JoWo Until early 2000s: Bock for gold, Schmidt/JoWo for steel Caran D'Ache Bock Cleo-Skribent Bock Conid Bock Conklin JoWo Conway Stewart Bock Pre-1920: Warranted, 1920-1975: In-House Cross In-House and Sailor (only for Peerless 125) Pelikan and Pilot Danitrio Bock (except 24k #50 sized nib on the Yokozuna series, made by an undisclosed Japanese company JoWo Delta Bock Diplomat Bock Dupont Bock Eboya Bock Edison JoWo Elysee Bock (finishing by SP Dupont?) Faber Castell JoWo Graf von Faber Castell Bock Franklin Christoph JoWo for steel, Bock and JoWo for gold Formerly all Bock (including some Schmidt branded Bock) Goulet JoWo Hakase Pilot (and Sailor, but mainly Pilot) Helico Bock Karas Kustoms Bock Kaweco Bock Lamy Mainly In-House; Bock for specialty nibs Exclusively Bock in the beginning Magna Carta Bock Montblanc In-House Montegrappa Bock Monteverde Bock Ohashido Sailor Omas Bock In-house until 2000 Onoto Bock Parker In-House Pelikan In-House Originally Montblanc nibs, later in-house, switched to Bock 1997, transitioned back to in-house since mid-2000s Pilot/Namiki In-House Platinum In-House Romillo In-House Sailor In-House Sheaffer Bock In-house Signum Bock Stipula Bock Stylo Art Sailor, Platinum, Pilot, and Bock Taccia Sailor and JoWo TWSBI Bock and JoWo Urso Bock Visconti Bock Waterman In-House Yard-o-Led Bock And organized by nib-maker: Bock Caran D'Ache, Cleo Skribent, Conid, Conway Stewart, Danitrio, Delta, Diplomat, Dupont, Eboya, Elysee, Graf von Faber Castell, Franklin Christoph, Helico, Kaweco, Karas Kustoms, Montegrappa, Monteverde, Omas, Onoto, Sheaffer, Signum, Stipula, Stylo Art, TWSBI, Visconti, Yard-o-Led In-House Ancora, Aurora, Lamy, Montblanc, Parker, Pelikan, Pilot/Namiki, Platinum, Romillo, Sailor, Waterman JoWo Bexley, Conklin, Edison, Faber Castell, Franklin Christoph, Goulet, Taccia, TWSBI Pilot Hakase, Pilot/Namiki, Stylo Art Sailor Hakase, Ohashido, Sailor, Stylo Art, Taccia If you have any additions or corrections, please include a link to where you found your info. Thanks!
  7. For those FPN members at least somewhat familiar with vintage Esterbrook fountain pens, what is your favorite among the many vintage Esterbrook nibs? One might ask in reply, "Favorite for which purpose?" Let's not get bogged down in technicalities. If you want to discuss your favorite for a particular purpose, feel free to do so. At this point, I use my vintage Esterbrooks for general writing and my signature. My favorite is the # 9788 -- flexible medium. I enjoy the modest springiness of the nib as I write, and to me it has an overall luxurious feel when writing. What say you?
  8. The only person I know of is The Nib Studio, however he is not responding to messages on Instagram. Can anybody recommend trusted alternatives ? Would be better if you have previously sent your pens to the people in question.
  9. Rosendust

    It is worth it?

    Hey all, I am wondering if it's worth it to get an Estie with a custom ground nib like those offered on Fountain Pen Hospital's site? This is also something to note:(a second one, also regular sized since my first will be an Oversized Honeycomb) Thoughts and opinions are definitely welcomed. Regards, Rosendust
  10. sidthecat

    Waterman 75 Nibs - WTH?

    I'm looking around for a broad nib for a Waterman 52 1/2 v (the little ringtop). vintagenibs.com had a couple of nibs labeled "Waterman 75 Made In USA" stamped lengthwise down the nib. It's gold and has a round breather hole and the usual info sources don't seem to mention this model, which is priced like an average vintage nib. Anybody know anything about them? Are they real?
  11. I’m seeking vac fillers which have 1.5mm stub or italic nibs (do they exist?) and/or 1.5mm stub or italic nibs which fit TWSBI GO and/or SWIPE vac fillers. Do these exist? (They need not be from TWSBI — I enjoy Frankenpenning.) Also, what chance is there of anyone being able to persuades TWSBI to resume making their 1.5 mm stub nib? Oh — by the way — what does TWSBI stand for, anyway? I assume that it abbreviates something, and that it may be abbreviating something in Chinese. I don’t know much Chinese, but I do know that a word which sounds like “bee” Is the Chinese word for a pen or pencil, So I wouldn’t be surprised to find that the company name is short for something Chinese.
  12. OldTravelingShoe

    20220827_145022.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  13. OldTravelingShoe

    20220827_144957.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  14. OldTravelingShoe

    20220827_144905.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.

  15. Help! I really love the Robert Oster inks. Where can I get them in India? Have you guys used Robert Oster?
  16. Hi, I was looking for this information both on FPN and other sources, added some experiments and this is what I maneged to put together: 1) Faber-castell eMotion, ambition, loom, basic, and (!!!) GRIP use same size nibs. 2) I am ready to bet they are exactly the same nibs. 3) The nib is #5. I made sure just puting both JOWO and BOCK #5 nib into GRIP, LOOM and ambition. 4) For some of those pens (eMotion and Ambition for sure) there are nib units avalible. Basicly it is nib, feed and whole section, so must be matched to pen model and sometimes version (ie all black eMotions) 5) those nib units pricing is absurd. In UK its 33 GBP for Ambition and 38 GBP for eMotion. If you section and feed is OK, there is no sense buying them. 6) !!! The cheapest way to buy nibs for all those pens: buy #5 steel nib (a don't know about US but in EU and UK there are some vendors with Jowo and Bock nibs available. (btw: Schmids are actually Jowo or Bock with Schmid feed and housing.). Cost of such nib is around 8 to 10 euro. 7) second cheapest way - but more fun and you get another pen "free" - you buy Faber-Castell GRIP pen Take the nib out, put on eMotion. Grip pens start from 15 euro (a grabbed one in the local stationery shop for 60 PLN which is even cheper). 8) Nibs are friction fit. in GRIP the feed is very basic, very long and quite fragile. There are no grooves in the housing to position the nib, so lenght of feed prevents leakage. But position nib on feed is easy - you will feel it, nibs just "jumps" in place. 9) eMotion and Ambition feeds are better, but I'm not sure they are interchangeable. But I think they are. I will check it and let you know. Feeds are much better, and positioning the nib with feed is also easy. THER ARE grooves inthe housing for the nib - just make sure the nib fits. Puting it back require almost no force. Well thats it I will try to check Ondoro and Essentio - but I don't expect any differences. (BTW: nibs, and whoie nib units on Graf von Faber-Castell Classic, Guilloche, and Anello are also interchangeable. Only difference is colour.
  17. Leftytoo

    Sailor Changes Its Nibs

    Sailor is my favorite pen and I've owned quite a few over 20 years. I just purchased a Pro Gear 21K medium. The nib is marked "M" and not "H-M". In comparing it with the same model (different color) purchased in 2012, I find nib differences that, to me, are not acceptable. The line width has jumped from 0.28 mm to 0.41mm, that is, it has become "Western". Flow is inferior, with ink pooling at the bottom of letters and it writes poorly, with bleeding & feathering, on papers not designed for fountain pens. It is no longer an EDC. Worst of all, it does not have that precision feel, sharp imprint, and tactile feedback that we Sailor aficionados love. It writes like any one of the acceptable $60 pens I've owned. I contacted Sailor. They verified they are changing their nomenclature but have not made any other changes. I returned the pen for a refund. Maybe I got a rare defective nib. If I buy one of these new Sailors, I'll make sure it is easily returnable. For those who complained that Sailors are scratchy, this may be the one you like. There is a great YouTube post comparing Sailor 14K and 21K nibs. The author shows that all write about the same width and ink flow with the exception of M, where the 21K nib is much wider that the 14K equivalent,
  18. donnweinberg

    Waterman's C/F Fountain Pen

    I was fascinated by the recent article, Waterman's Almost Forgotten C/F Cartridge-Fill Fountain Pen, in the most recent issue (Volume 7, Issue 1) of Paul's Fountain Pen Journal. I would direct you to the article's rendition of the history of the pen and its great photos of the pen and advertisements for the pen from the past. I won't repeat its information here. I was stimulated by the article to hunt on Ebay for this pen. There are many examples of this pen offered on Ebay, both from American and International sellers. I now have purchased three of the pens in different colors, have bid on another, and have purchased perhaps a one-of-a-kind display box of 12 different C/F nibs-in-sections for this type of pen. I wanted to share some photos I've taken today. The C/F I already received is this one, which has a gold-plated cap and reddish-brown barrel. It came with all its papers and a box of 8 cartridges, the ink in which mostly has evaporated, plus a "place-keeper" empty cartridge. I substituted a "broad-flex" nib-and-section (from the 12 nibs) for the one that came with the pen originally. I cleaned out two of the formerly filled cartridges, and then filled one with Diamine Monboddos Hat (dark purple) ink. Wow! The pen wrote immediately and was very smooth in its first "outing." We'll see how it performs over time. I would welcome any experiences or comments others have about this pen.
  19. I love everything about the Triple Tail. The largeness. The clearness. The non-smellyness. The plunger filling system. The 308 cartridges I can use. Everything, that is, but the nib itself. It's just too darn much for me. It's finicky, which is bad enough. But even when it does work after heat setting, etc -- and even with an ink as simple as 4001 Royal Blue or Waterman Serenity Blue -- it's like writing with a paint brush. And that's before flexing! Before I return it for a partial refund, I thought I would see if anyone has managed to trade it out for a #6 nib? And it not a basic #6, then something else? I saw someone asked Goulet, and the answer was: "Maybe". Have you done it? How'd it go?
  20. Filou

    FF nib?

    I try to find some information about the FF nib. So far unsuccessful. Is there somebody, who knows? Thanks in advance!
  21. In trying to hone my skills at grinding, polishing and tuning nibs I am looking for a source of ‘bulk’ #5 and #6 steel nibs on which to practice. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
  22. Hello, Hope you are doing well. I'm interested in finding the best components of Fountain Pen such as Nibs, Brass tubes, Resin tubes, Feed, Ink Collector, Ink Converter, Inner Barrel and other inserts. Preferably in the Asian market. Any recommendation? Thanks
  23. ,Just joined and posted an introduction. Forgot to mention that I belong to a Wood Workshop here in Melbourne who have a large membership but no one making bespoke pens, so that's what I'd like to concentrate on. I have pens my grandfather and farther left me in bakelite and So here's my question: Having used kits in the past with all parts provided, when I now look at my starting point, the nib, I'm overwhelmed. I'd love to be able to offer the pens concentrating on Australian Species, in particular ancient wood. As far as the nib is concerned I feel I would initially look at the mid range, chose and then stick to a manufacturer. It would be great to be able to chose between pen design and nib type. Can anyone give me a nudge in the right direction? Many Thanks Denis
  24. dragos.mocanu

    Nibs For A Beginner

    Hello! This is my first post in the calligraphy section, and I have a question ...but first, a brief intro: I've been tackling with flexible handwriting ever since I got my first Noodler's flex pen, and what a bumpy road it has been... My first flexy nib was incredibly stiff, so I reoriented towards vintage flex, but that turned out to be misleading as well (couldn't find a pen to fit my style). Long story short, it's long since I've sold almost all of my flex pens, keeping only a modified Noodler's nib (ease-my-flex mod) for messing around. And the level of 'messing around' I'm at right now...looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/LHM9H64.jpg (W. B. Yeats' 'Aedh Wishes for the Cloths of Heaven' in Apache Sunset with Noodler's Ahab Ease-My-Flex nib) Feeling that I've started making a bit of progress, I decided to get an oblique pen holder and some decent nibs...problem is, the art stores in my country have a very limited range of flexy nibs (like 1 or 2 variants...) and no oblique holders! After a bit of browsing, I found a nice English webstore with everything I needed; ordered a Speedball oblique holder and 4 nibs (to see which would fit me best): Gillott 404, Leonardt EF Principal, Leonardt Shorthand DP40 and Brause Steno 361. I've read good reviews about the first 3, and I just liked the way the 361 looked Now...after all this useless blabbering comes my question: which other nibs should I consider in my endeavors of learning proper Copperplate (and maybe Spencerian later)? Thank you! (I apologize for the horrendous quality of the photo)
  25. Hello guys! I want to change my nibs from F to EF. Than i went to appelboompen and saw that they have the new Lamy LX nibs. it cost twice the price of the current lamy z50 nib. So Does the LX nibs or the Z52 nibs have a different writing experience than the normal lamy nib? does the new coating effect the nib width? Is it worth it compare the normal nib? Please share your story if you have use a Lamy LX nib. Thanks!





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