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  1. Currently there are many excellent pens being made in Italy and modern Italian pens have captured my heart. I have been a fan of the beautiful Aurora pens for some time and lately the uniquely special offerings from Scrittura Bolognese have enthused me even more. I have a few Leonardos and even two (!) of the very first Radius 1934 pens. I have been delighted with them all because of their beauty, the quality of the nibs and overall manufacture, and most of all the pleasure of writing with them. I didn’t have a Montegrappa, however. Today I set that right and it is truly extraordinary and, I h
  2. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For Sale
    • Used


  3. I like celluloid, Omas, vintage (and of course modern too)... For a long time I resisted getting a vintage Omas Cracked Ice. The combination of the rare pattern and vintage Omas makes it quite expensive to acquire a senior sized or even a mid sized Omas Cracked Ice. I also have a vintage Conway Stewart Cracked Ice, which is considered one of the most attractive Conway Stewart patterns (along with Herringbone, Tiger Eye etc). So I convinced myself that I didn't need an Omas Cracked Ice. That is until the right moment came. Recently I was able to acquire a vintage Omas Cracked Ice in the lady/ri
  4. Hi, this vintage Pilot is pretty neat but the celluloid shrinkage has the cap threads mostly impossible to engage and impossible to secure as they run off the end. It is a functioning Japanese eyedropper (original packing cork) with an ebonite section which screws in and seals well so expanding the barrel doesn’t seem like the best option. The cap band is also loose, but the cap and barrel threads meeting is my primary concern. The barrel has nearly a mm of shrinkage apparent at the size decrease where the cap sits. Does anyone have any recommendations? It is such an interesting h
  5. I'm interested in getting some celluloid pens both vintage and new, but I'm unfamiliar with the properties beyond how they are made and their beauty. What causes celluloid breakdown and why should a pen be isolated from other celluloid pens? Any other things to be aware of? Thanks.
  6. From the album: Japanese pens

    The patterns around the cap or body on a Platinum #3776 Celluloid pen is unlikely to be seamlessly continuous because, as Platinum Pen explained: Source: https://www.platinum-pen.co.jp/e_spec_explanation.html#celluloid

    © A Smug Dill

  7. sansenri

    Visconti Id Early Model

    I recently acquired this Visconti pen but cannot identify the model name, if it does have a name... it is evidently an early model, it is made of wrapped celluloid, black-brown flake, and has a steel two tone nib with Visconti written vertically, top down, such as I have already seen on a Visconti Classic the nib is steel I assume as it has no gold markings the pen is approx 13.5 cm capped, short of 12 cm uncapped, and it is rather fat. It is a cartridge-converter pen. The material used is surely celluloid, you can smell the distictive odour of canfor as you open the barrel, and it is wrapped
  8. Hi everyone I love celluloid pens, and use celluloid Stipula fountain pens as daily drivers. However, some have become less shiny/reflecting but more dull over time. Is there a simple and cheap trick (similar to shining silver trims again with a toothbrush and a small bit of toothpaste) to "polish" the celluloid? The celluloid pens I have are quite expensive and rare, so I wouldn't want to harm the celluloid in any way! Thanks for all advice and experiences!! Greetings from Belgium, Ruben
  9. sansenri

    Death Of An Omas

    OK, so, I knew this was coming. Perhaps I was not expecting so soon, but I knew this was the direction things had taken. I was actually discussing about this pen, and the status it was in, in another thread here not too many days ago. When I bought this pen in early 2015 I knew something was wrong with it, because the price was so cheap, and some deterioration was already evident. Then again I liked it so much and was not prepared to pay the above euro 1000 it was selling mint already at that time (and earlier). The Galileo Galilei pen was released in 1993 in a limited edition of 4,692 pieces
  10. R_Bones

    Pilot Con-20 And Celluloid Pens

    I have a Hakase in jade green celluloid. It can accept a CON-70 but for a variety of reasons I am not the hugest fan of that converter, and the CON-40 is pretty lacking in ink capacity. I have always liked the CON-20; they have good flow and filling and cleaning them is a breeze. Should I be worried about outgassing though if I leave one in a celluloid pen? I am not sure what the sac material is made out of but I know that sacs were known to cause discoloration in older colored celluloid pens, which seems particularly noticeable in green celluloid pens. With that said this celluloid stock is
  11. Found a couple of interesting articles relative to the preservation of celluloid nitrate film that may be of value to pen collectors: https://hyperallergic.com/343828/the-unlikely-story-of-how-nitrate-film-endures https://americanarchivist.org/doi/pdf/10.17723/aarc.73.2.n2746075wr84356t In summary, their recommendations are consistent with what many FPN regulars already know, ie. to store celluloid nitrate in cool, dry environments so as to slow the decay (ie off-gassing of nitrates) - 40 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) and 20%-30 % humidity being optimal (at least as regards vintage c
  12. sombrueil

    Piave, 1930's 2Nd Tier Pen

    I just got this handsome pleasant Italian celluloid pen from Rick Propas aka The PENguin. He couldn't find any information on it and of course neither could I. But it is an interesting pen. Rick placed it somewhere in the 1930's, a second-tier pen of what appears to be a very obscure make. It's a lever fill, celluloid. The photos don't really capture the color very well. It's green on black, faceted. The nib is a replacement Montegrappa, an example of a very flexible but not particularly soft nib. You need to press to get the flex, but there is a whole lot of it. Without pressure it is a fine.
  13. Vintage celluloid usually shows some shrinking to various degrees. Depending on the kind of celluloid and brand, the shrinking can be enough for the cap bands to loosen. Sometimes you see such pens which even lost cap bands due to this problem. Is there any good way to fix this issue? Can you tighten the cap bands somehow?
  14. SilverPearlVacumatic

    Fixing Pinhole In Celluloid

    Greetings, I have a nice Sheaffer triumph, that writes well, but occasionally, while I am writing, my fingers will feel wet and I will notice that they are covered in ink. After this happened a few times, I cleaned the outside and pressed a damp paper towel against it to search for a potential leak. I found a spot right where the celluloid steps down to make room for the metal cap band that seems to be leaking ink. This is not a joint, but a step in the same piece of celluloid. I can't actually see a hole or a crack, but I presume one is there. What is the best way to fix this? Could
  15. Is it common for fountain pens to be severely damaged by heat or cold when being shipped? If so, what are the most common forms of damage? Can anything be done to reduce this risk, such as using packages that can breathe or paying for faster shipping? The reason I ask this is because the first fountain pen I bought online was a gorgeous Parker vacumatic maxima. When it had arrived, the celluloid lacked shine, the cap band was loose (as if the plastic had shrunk), and the iridium on one tine was gone and on the other side it jarred sideways, as if a new piece had been soldered on. I suspe
  16. Hello everyone. In follow-up to the topic of protecting ebonite and celluloid (cellulose nitrate) started in this thread: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/332509-experiments-to-re-blacken-hard-rubber/page-2?do=findComment&comment=4301019 I've been going down the rabbit hole of researching HALS and other chemicals that offer protection against UV light-induced oxidation. Something that would act as a moisture barrier would be nice as well. HALS and related chemicals can ostensibly be purchased, but the myriad variations and solubilities have me baffled. I found a resour
  17. Jason Oliver

    Oh, The Wonder...

    Why every fountain pen isnt made of Italian celluloid is a mystery Ill never understand. Such a wonderfully beautiful material
  18. Hi all, I have 3 vintage Sheaffer fountain pens that were recently passed down to me from my late great-grandfather. I know that one of them is for sure a Sheaffer Snorkel, but I'm not sure about the other two. Images of the Snorkel: https://imgur.com/a/TWdURQp Images of the brown pen: https://imgur.com/a/BYhi5jT Images of the green pen: https://imgur.com/a/2myBKsk The two unknown pens I'm fairly confident I can easily restore. They both AFAIK have petrified sacs, though one of them came apart and I was able to get it out. The Snorkel I am less confident about, given its complexity. I
  19. jchch1950

    Stipula Repair

    I have two Stipula pens made of celluloid,one has a broken cap al the clip level and the other in the barrel. I will like to know if is possible to repair them buying a new cap and barrel. Or the the other parts will broke in the near future. Until now a have not find any email to ask the Stipula company. Does anyone knows their email address? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  20. Hi all, This is my last creation. Made from Verdigris Cellulose Acetate based on OMAS Verde. More details about this pen on penteopens.com Nice day. Teo
  21. Gasquolet

    Ink Colour Changing In The Pen?

    I have recently had two pens, piston fillers, both celluiloid, filled with different Akkerman inks where over time the ink colour has changed remarkably. I have a good number of pens, many of them piston fill or self fillers because that's my wont and because most of them are older or vintage. I have never seen such a striking change of ink colour as I've just experienced though and wanted to ask if others have seen the same. The first case could be put down to time in the pen with the ink losing water and becoming more saturated: This is a Geha pen from the 60's filled with Akkerman SBRE
  22. Just got a lovely 144G with long ink window and F nib. It had a new cork seal and filling wonderfully... any harm in using it as an EDC (no pocket only purse) and no direct sunlight?
  23. I’ve been reading other posts for quite a while and got a lot of useful information. I am appreciated to all the shared knowledge from Youtube and forum FPN, fpgeeks, and Reddit. As that knowledge helped me to get started, I also want to do some contributions to this community. During the past year, I got really serious and had some nice pens for my personal collection. I would like to share my thoughts about those pens. As I come from Hong Kong, the suitability of the pens in writing Chinese words is reviewed as well. That’s why you will find Chinese writing in the writing sample. The first
  24. I was told by a reputable vintage pen shop that posting a cap on a vintage pen, such as long striated pattern Parker Vacumatics, Duofold, etc, makes the cap prone to splitting since it is made of celluloid. They said it is a good practice not to Post A Cap on a vintage pen when using unless there is a nylon other insert that is for that function and it is mounted deeper into the cap. However, a lot of pens don't sit very well in the hand when writing if there's no cap. i have a number of expensive vintage pens that I write with, a lot. What is the solution? Buy a sacrificial cap? *
  25. I ran across this on ebay. So many of the Sheaffer desk sets seem to be the standard black body fountain pens. These had an nice splash of celluloid color, which I found strangely appealing. (Possibly "Balance" version derived?) Both of them are white dot, lifetime nibs, celluloid bodies with lever fill. They seemed less common than other examples. Enough of my chatter, pictures below.

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