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Hi, I recently purchased the stainless steel version of the Lamy 2000 fountain pen and I have a question regarding a possible defect in the pen. The version of the pen that I purchased has metal finger tabs extending from the O-ring between the piece of the pen attaching to the nib and the piece constituting the main body of the pen. Previously, I had owned the fiber-glass version of the Lamy 2000, and the finger tabs, if I recall correctly, were located to 9 and 3 o'clock on the pen. I.e., when looking directly at the nib, the finger tabs were on a line parallel with the nib. On my new stainless steel Lamy 2000, however, the finger tabs are askew, at roughly 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock, i.e. on a line diagonal to the nib. Is this a possible defect to the pen, or is it a normal design feature? Thanks in advance for your responses. [PS: I sent a similar inquiry to Lamy, but am posting the question here in the interests of thoroughness/getting an independent opinion.]

These are writing samples using just a single unit of each model of LAMY EF nib I have, without any claim or implication that one unit of (say) Z55 EF nib will be identical or comparable with a different unit of such. The first six nibs were all fitted in turn onto the same feed on the same pen drawing from the same reservoir (i.e. converter) of LAMY Benitoite ink. Each nib was cleaned in a dilute solution of ammonia and detergent and patted dry on a paper towel immediately before fitting on the LAMY cp1 pen used, then pressed against a paper towel until the ink being drawn through is dark enough, then written with on another sheet of Rhodia Dotpad 80g/m² paper until the colour and flow appear stabilised. The last of the nibs listed is the EF nib that came fitted on my LAMY 2000 blue Bauhaus pen. There are discernible but relatively minor differences between the ink flow and output of the first six nibs; the LAMY 2000's EF nib is what stood out as glaringly different, and incidentally I find its output the least pleasing. The first nib is somewhat scratchy, to the point that it ripped and picked up fibres from the paper surface from time to time. I don't suppose every Z50 EF nib is equally as damaging, but I didn't feel like either going through my other Z50 EF nibs to find a better, smoother unit to test, or modifying the nib such that it is significantly different from factory condition (or at least as it was supplied to me by the retailer) by smoothing it with micro-mesh. The Z52 and Z53 nibs are both harder than the Z50 nib, but can put down lines that are at least equally as broad when pressed. The gold nibs feel softer than the steel nibs, and I can physically see more elastic deformation in the body when they are pressed, but their tines don't spread as far apart and thus the "maximum" line widths are not as broad. Even though there has been several reports that the EF nibs on LAMY Dialog 3 pens — which use Z55 nibs — exhibit the characteristic of an architect's grind, in that lines left by downstrokes are narrow and cross-strokes wider, the one I tested proves not every Z55 EF nib is like that. (I have two Z55 EF nibs, but I haven't looked at the other one yet; it's on a new pen that only arrived on the weekend.) The Z57 EF nib tested had more of the Sailor Zoom nib-like quality, in that the incident angle between nib and page changes the line widths of cross-strokes notably. The Lamy 200 EF nib is wettest and broadest of them all, and has the least potential for delivering line variation through hand pressure moderation or fluctuation. Ugh. <EDIT> I just tested another Z50 EF nib, and it was as scratchy as the one used above. Alrighty then, micro-mesh it is. All better now.

Hi, So, recently, my brand-new stainless steel Lamy 2000 arrived… uncapped. According to the store, the cap came off during transport; hard to believe, in my opinion. I rather think that the pen was checked but not closed properly afterwards. I don’t know if it’s because the cap was totally loose in this big box or not, but I noticed some marks and even dents on the pen body. Are these kinds of things to be expected on a brand-new metal fountain pen? Personally, I find it hard to believe the loose cap has nothing to do with these; still, if they’re in the range of normal, I’m willing to accept it. But, furthermore, I have no way to know if the nib was hit or not – I noticed nothing worrying when writing, but it’s hard to compare a BB nib. Moreover, I noticed that the cap is not fixed as tightly as it is on my Makrolon Lamy 2000. The base of the cap is a bit loose on the horizontal axis, as if it wasn’t the same diameter; I can feel it just holding the pen in my hand. Also, I switched the cap between the stainless steel and Makrolon version: the Makrolon cap is always tight, while the steel cap is a bit loose on both models. Is the steel cap usually a bit looser compared the Makrolon one? Or is my cap a bit too loose, maybe even loose enough to believe the cap actually came off during transport? Thanks for your help.

It helps to explore this yourself, revisiting once in a while if need be, and keep in mind where each of those personal info fields are entered. Don't leave it until the urge to change something specific to come upon you, and only then bother to ask the question! Invest the time surveying upfront, instead of waste it later waiting for an answer from nobody in particular. Most of the fields shown above are self-evident as to what they are. I think the only ones that could do with explanation are: Security and Privacy: There is only one setting under there, and that is a toggle for whether your online status (including ‘last active’ date or time) is visible to others Content View Behavior: That has nothing to do with what others can see about you, but only where you would like to start reading when accessing content Enable status updates: This toggle enables/disables the public feed on your profile page; if you disable it, then nobody (including you) can post publicly visible ‘status updates’ or any other message against your profile, but if you enable it, then anyone — friend, foe, or complete stranger — can post something there whenever, without waiting for you to initiate and then only reply to what you wrote Notification Settings have nothing to do with what others can see about you, and so is out of scope for this article, and I'm not going to delve into those right now. (You can look here, here, and here to wrap your head around how notifications work with respect to followed content.) N.B. There is a possibility that some of the above settings and data fields may not be available to Bronze members and/or Silver members, but I have no way of testing that or scoping it out. — • — Another way of getting to the Edit Profile dialog, and the way to change your profile photo (or ‘avatar’), is here: — • — Freeform, custom member titles that one enters for oneself are long gone, and have not been a thing since FPN came back from a long hiatus and platform upgrade late in 2020.

So The new lamy 2000 brown is up for pre order and the price is almost 4 times the base black version https://wonderpens.ca/products/lamy-2000-fountain-pen-anniversary-edition-brown Are you going to buy this one??

I got this lamy 2000 recently and i want to know when abouts it was manufactured? It has Lamy 2000 W. Germany on the base of the cap, the plain ball bearing type clip, the old style section with the plastic under the nib, but no nib size indicator on the nib or stamped into the collar. It also doesn’t have an L on the blind cap like many of the old ones. Does anyone know what year it could be made? i can provide photos if any are needed

Hey guys, I had a Lamy 2000 and sold it, but really missed it. The other day I jumped on a Lamy 2000 with a 0.6mm stub customized by Mike Masuyama. I really like the nib, but it's way too broad for my liking for everyday use (I can see it coming in handy for special occasions, though). I want to buy a nib and/or section. Preferably something already put together so all I have to do is swap it out. Worst case scenario is that I can trade someone the Mike-ified nib that I have for a standard Lamy 2000 EF nib as I'll use that way more than this stub. But I'd really like to have it as a second option. I called Lamy USA and they flat-out refuse to sell me the nib/section for the 2000. They offered a swap. When I explained that I wanted both options, I just got a weird, "Oh, okay...". LOL! I didn't mention the modification as I thought their heads might explode. Anyone? Anywhere? Have money, will spend.

After 6 months of work, here is the new version of my retractable nib pen (V5). The external appearance of the pen is like a chimera of Pilot's MYU for its titanium body and Lamy 2000 for its overall shape and clip. On the inside of the pen, the nib retracts behind a spring loaded trap door, the nib mechanism is activated by rotating the section of 3/4 of turn, clockwise. The filling mechanism is a piston filler which acts similarly as FountainBell's Bulkfiller holding a large amount of ink. The nib is a cursive italic which was ground from a pelikan BB stainless steel nib, the feed is from an old french pen in ebonite. The pen now features a more discreet trap door for the nib: The piston system is basically the same than the other versions: The ink window is a minimalistic polycarbonate round window which makes the job well: This pen took so much time to design and build out of a single titanium rod: take a look at the titanium shavings! My micro 12kg lathe/milling machine made the job surprisingly well even on Grade 5 titanium. Some tricks had to be used, mainly for drilling procedures: slowing down spindle speed, only predrill holes at 2mm (drilling using progressively larger drillbits stucks them into the work), cooling the drill is also crucial (when you don't own special harware for this purpose you have to stop drilling and wait for it to cool which takes a long long time...). Here are some special setups: Once machined, the hard part was to assemble titanium parts together... Titanium parts don't glide on each others they get simply stucked. To allow free gliding of the titanium moving parts I Had to cover them with acetal caps which required additional extra work. Here you can see the part which allows the section to turn onto the barrel: an acetal ring serves as interface between the section and the barrel: I use this pen for 3 months now and I am very pleased with. Unlike the other versions in ebonite (V1,2,3) the inkflow is more consistent, nor too wet, nor to dry. The pen is much more robust than the other versions although it is heavier it did not broke or deform when falling from my shirt pocket on concrete for example: the grade 5 titanium made it simply bounce with a few minor scratches. Hope my journey to making this pen interested you. Jeremy Link to the other pens for comparison:

Lamy 2000 is probably the only pen which has maintained it’s popularity since it’s launch in 1966.It’s an iconic design & is nearly a perfect pen with just some minor flaws for a normal user with normal requirements. It is & it has always been a popular choice for people looking for good quality, durable and a starter gold nib pen. This particular model of Lamy has never got out fashion & still is a very popular due to it’s simple design & easy availability everywhere. Pros- Timeless Design Nice Piston With Great Ink Capacity Pen Reliability Easy Availability Durability Great Pricing (You can still find it around $99 on sales) Comes with a legacy True Workhorse which is good for long writing sessions Post-able Well Balanced Snap on cap Nice 14k gold nib which is usually wet out of the box (but it may require basic tuning in some cases) Nib Units are available separately with some retailers Cons- Poor Quality Control Some very small parts can easily lost while cleaning or disassembling Cap nubs could be annoying for few guys Only 1 black color. Poor Packaging Retail prices are just too much & still Lamy is constantly increasing them Some people don’t like hooded nibs Specifications- Capped Length: 5.5 in.(139.7mm) Posted Length: 6.188 in.(157.2mm) Length of Body: 4.9 in.(124.5mm) Length of Cap: 2.6 in.(66.0mm) Diameter of Body: 0.5 in.(12.7mm) Diameter of Cap: 0.6 in.(15.2mm) Weight: 0.8 oz.(22.68g) Body Material: Makrolon Section Material: Metal Nib Material: Gold Fill Mechanism: Piston Cartridge Type: Bottled Ink Ink Capacity: 1.35ml Cap Type: Snap On(Magnetic) Postable: Yes Demonstrator: No Clip Style: Spring Lever Lamy 2000 Makrolon no doubt is a classic fountain pen & is most common pen that most enthusiasts have or will like to get. It’s could recommend it to someone who is looking a simple looking fountain pen with a good nib which you can take anywhere you want & is reliable writer. Makrolon itself feels quite pleasant in hand – slightly textured. The matte finish of pen looks simple but is quite unique. I don’t recall other pen apart from Kaco Edge which has such feel & texture (which is called a Lamy 2000 clone by some people but I feel they are different designs). https://inkpenlover.wordpress....ince-1966-too-have-some-flaws/ Nib- The hooded medium nib is made from 14K gold ,it has a some amount of springiness but don’t expect any wonders. The flow is vey good and starts immediately after some days too. The nib is extremely smooth with just a little bit of feedback. You will like the nib for sure , but yeah Lamy is inconsistent with nibs , And their is sweet spot issue in some cases too. Performance- It is a piston filler with an ink capacity of approximately of 1.35 ml. It is a nice filling mechanism overall & work flawlessly. The pen has ink window too; although it is not that great. But yeah it is helpful. This is a great workhorse pen & you won’t have any troubles. It’s a slip cap, so a slight pull is all that is needed to uncap the pen and get writing. Removing the cap really reveals what all the fuss is about. There are no steps between elements or weird changes of angle, just a simple and continuous curve from where the nib emerges from the section to the end of the barrel.The body is round with blunt, flat ends & is comfortable to hold . There is a short brushed metal section which leads the eye down to a small, partially hooded 14K rhodium-plated gold nib. The only departure from curved lines comes with the underside of the section, which angles up more sharply towards the underside of the feed. Breather hole is hidden so it prevents pen from drying out .Some may not like this short brushed metal section. Overall- This is a great starter gold nib pen, its a simple design but its elegant . Nib is nice & flow is very good. It is a durable pen ,it will last you for years. It’s a nice pen if you get it for between $100-150 but keep the flaws in mind before buying. It’s not worth the current MRP. You can get Safari with gold nib too,I enjoy writing with it more- it's personal preference ! Full review link - https://inkpenlover.wordpress.com/2021/04/28/lamy-2000-makrolon-review-masterpiece-since-1966-too-have-some-flaws/[InkPenLover](https://inkpenlover.wordpress.com/2021/04/28/lamy-2000-makrolon-review-masterpiece-since-1966-too-have-some-flaws/)

I'm thinking of getting a Lamy 2000, but I'm not sold on the design, particularly the "brushed Makrolon" look. There are no nearby pen stores, so I'm stuck with pictures online, which can only show so much. Are the striations as obvious as they look in pictures? More generally, what reasons do (or did) y'all have for being skeptical of the 2000? Were they showstoppers? Were they overblown?

Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Lamy 2000 again about 6 years after I first bought one. After a couple weeks of use, I noticed that the pen doesn't write consistently. Been using it with the Lamy Black ink exclusively so far. And nib width is extra fine. I disassembled the pen to check and found this strange thread like string stuck between nib and feed. I cleaned it out and inked the pen again, and the pen wrote consistently until the same thing happened after a few weeks. (Photo attached) Any advice on what might be causing this? Please share any suggestions on how to fix this issue. Cheers Sidd

Was looking at this posting on etsy and trying to determine if these are fakes. It looks like the cap retention clips are black and not silver. Has Lam'y changed this from their silver clips? https://www.etsy.com/listing/961020710/lamy-black-2000-fountain-pen-with-14ct?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=lamy+2000&ref=sr_gallery-1-2&organic_search_click=1&frs=1

I'm planning to purchase a new Lamy 2000 online as my first expensive pen and I want to get the nib choice right. I like a western F, for example like a Goulet #6 F. Should I go with the F or the EF ? I realize varations of this question have been posted before. Some comments say their F is a true western F and some say it is more a M. I don't know what to think. Comments welcome. Thanks John

Here is the my latest pen! This is an ebonite pen, with an acrylic window within the section and the barrel. It is a capless pen with a twist mechanism, similar to the safety pen one. Twisting the section onto the barrel allows the nib to come in and out. The nib is juicy and flexible (Wahl eversharp #2). The filling mechanism is a copy of Fountainbell's bulkfiller with a modified magnetic (neodymium magnet) mechanism to retain the filling pellet. The barrel end is decorated with an amethyst. The pen length is 12,6 mm length closed and 13,4 mm opened, the maximum diameter is 16mm. The filling capacity is 3,5ml with a regular stroke but can be extended to 4,2ml expelling the air of the pen, penpoint up and resucking ink again. Here are the pictures and the X-ray of the pen.

Can you believe it? I really did not need another pen, but I got one anyway. The Lamy 2000 Fine - Macrolon. It is my 3rd Western fine, vs. the Waterman Carene and Pelikan M120 Iconic Blue. On paper their line output is almost identical. The Pelikan I would consider slightly wet and the Lamy and Waterman neither wet nor dry. The Waterman is 18K gold, the Lamy 14K and the Pelikan is steel. For me, they were almost all identical in price. The Pelikan is lightest and smallest, then the Lamy, then the Carene, although the Lamy mid-barrel is a bit wider in diameter than the Carene. The Waterman is lacquer on brass. I expected the Lamy to write like the Waterman, super smooth and quiet. I was surprised to find the Lamy and Waterman feel very different from each other. The Lamy writes much more like the steel Pelikan (the 2 German pens vs. the French pen). There is feedback and noise of writing on paper, unlike with the Waterman. The Pelikan is perhaps a bit more scratchy-like and loud but maybe glides slightly better on paper due to the wetter ink flow. The Pelikan is also much more springy than the other 2. I would not call either the Lamy or Pelikan truly scratchy at all, however. For me, these 3 pens are my most comfortable/easiest pens to write with in my collection, with the Pelikan less comfortable due to its thin section and very slight step at the section threads. The Lamy 'dog-ears' do not come into play with me at all. My grip is at the top of the metal section and below the dog ears. I'm not sure if you would call these work-horse pens but I think I could have the longest writing sessions with these 3 vs. any in my collection because of their comfort. What I notice with all 3, the Lamy included, is when I start writing I think about the words on paper and forget about the pen. This may be a great compliment. In fact, it seems like I forget about the Lamy in hand the quickest. From a writing standpoint, I think that is a good thing. With my Sailor King of Pen or Pelikan M1000 I could be 3 pages in and still be oogling at the smoothness of the writing, or how beautiful they are or be marveling at how long I've been able to maintain the sweet spot... my writing comes backseat to the pen with these 'flagships'. From a pen enthusiast's standpoint, that is amazing, from a writer's standpoint (luckily I am not) it is probably a very bad thing. So I consider the 2 gold nibs, Carene vs. the 2000, one is elegant, delicate looking but very solid in hand, glassy smooth and quiet writing and super comfortable, the other is minimalist, form over function, durable, low to moderate feedback and sound, yet smooth and super comfortable. Both with snap on caps, both with unique nib looks. One should be written with the pinky in the air, the other, not. One, very French (French named after the hull of a yacht), other very German (using the very Germanic sounding 'Bauhaus' design language). Both very different, both really enjoyable and interesting in their own right. I'm still trying to decide of my thoughts of my little German school pen, but that springy nib feels great and for now it is my only pocket pen. Edit: I continue to write page after page with this Lamy 2000. I know many don't believe in pen/nib 'break-in' but I have seen references to ink flow and smoothness improving specifically with this pen over the first few days. I can say with confidence my ink flow and smoothness with this Lamy 2000 continues to improve. At this point I am now just feeling subtle feedback. This is really shaping up into a beautiful Fine writer. I will add I did not include my Pilot Custom 823 Fine in this comparison because that pen really writes like a Western Extra fine. But I can confirm at this point my Lamy 2000 is also now writing smoother than my Custom 823, which is also no small feat as the 823 is an outstanding writing pen with a touch of feedback.

My Lamy 2000 leaks at the "ears" that keep the cap in place. Suggestions? Thanks!

Hey everyone! This is my first post though I've been reading the forums a lot since I first realised that I'm addicted There is so much info on the forums that I really didn't have any reason to ask something. Until now. I've read a lot about Lamy 2k RB and I was very sure that it accepts Pilot G2 refills (and it should accept Uni super ink refills as well). So I went ahead and got this pen during my last trip to Italy without checking whether the refill fits or not. When I got home I was pretty much confused that it does not accept the G2 refill. And the reason is a small step inside closer to the tip. Here's the photo: http://funkyimg.com/i/2t7tm.jpg Is it a freshly made change to force people use original refills or was it always like that with L2K RB? I can force the G2 refill inside but first it takes a rediculous amount of pressure and second - it still does not look good. At all. So i guess there should be some hack. I would greatly appreciate any advice that will keep the pen look the same and still accept original refills in case I need them in the future and still be able to accept G2's. Thank you!

Hi folks So I've been struggling to find a blue ink for my Lamy 2000 EF with my custom Mark Bacas nib. I'd prefer a bulletproof or water resistant ink, but the inks I've tried so far (Noolders Elysium blue, Kon-Peki, Prime of the Commons) either bleed through my Leuchtturm, or take ages to dry. I've got the Pilot nano sou boku ink, but am a bit hesitant to use due to the potential additional cleaning I may have to do due to the pigment. Any thoughts, wisdom, or opinions welcome!