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Found 12 results

  1. Hi everyone I love celluloid pens, and use celluloid Stipula fountain pens as daily drivers. However, some have become less shiny/reflecting but more dull over time. Is there a simple and cheap trick (similar to shining silver trims again with a toothbrush and a small bit of toothpaste) to "polish" the celluloid? The celluloid pens I have are quite expensive and rare, so I wouldn't want to harm the celluloid in any way! Thanks for all advice and experiences!! Greetings from Belgium, Ruben
  2. So my grandad back in India got me a few vintages out of which some are celluloid and others, some sort of plastic. I haven't had the chance of seeing them due to the COVID pandemic. Now many of them are in a poor state. The main reason he got them was for me to try restoration. They aren't expensive or anything, but I wouldn't want to destroy any of them so I thought of asking here some tips to polish them. I have a buffing machine back home but I'm not willing to let these vintages come close to it at all (would you recommend it, anyway?), so hand polishing is the way to go for me. I have
  3. I was smoothing a few nibs today, some from modern fountain pens and some from vintage. I did notice that the final result favored the modern fountain pens and not the vintage ones, despite the fact that the same polishing method was used. Specifically I got much more buttery effect out of a plain parker IM fountain pen with a steel nib, compared to a parker 51 with a gold nib. This got me thinking whether this had to do with the tipping of the nibs and the slit cut. I imagine that modern pens take advantage of new technology which has provided better methods to apply tipping at the nib and to
  4. I accidentally came across a nice pen which I want to have for quite sometime. A Parker 45: Gold Cap, 14K Fine nib, made in USA, black Barrel. The one I got is quite old, but writes very well. As you can see above, there are lots of mini (not micro) scratchings and rust maybe around the pen, turn up I bought it as the price is nice and I really love the shape of the 45. After writing some days, today I return her beauty. I need a princess, not a muddy frog... What I need? [1] Tamiya Compound, Course, Fine, and Finish. [2] Cape Cod polish cloth. (it is much better than the Autosol
  5. shadesdragon

    Parker Duofold From The 1980S

    I purchased a Parker Duofold from the 1980s and didn't notice that the cap band was scuffed on half of it. I didn't inspect it close enough.... So.. I want to see if polishing it would be an option or if this is just a this layer of brass or other material that if polished would wear off and make it worse. Anyone know what kind of material the cap bands are? I have simichrome polish I can use but trying to decide if I should go that route. Any experienced advice is appreciated. Pic attached.
  6. Uncial

    Nib Polishing

    I have a nib I want to polish. It's not rough or scratchy, I would just like to polish it very slightly to take a tiny bit of the 'tooth' out of it. Should I be using lapping film rather than micro-mesh, and what grades should I be looking at? Thanks
  7. I am rather fond of my ebonite pens and some are highly polished and some a very matt. I like the polished ones the most (I know some of you will be pursing your lips right now and uttering, 'heathen!'). Some of the matt ones I would like to keep matt, some I would like to polish to a high shine if possible. Some of the ones that are matt were once shiny and I would like to get them back to their original state - again, if possible. The issue I have is that I have no idea what to polish them with. I would love to hear some ideas of what works and perhaps what to avoid and if anyone had before
  8. jcreilley

    Polishing A Century Ii

    Hello, I have a friend who has been using a Cross Century II for about 9 years. There's a bunch of micro-scratchnig all along the pen from years of use and bouncing around in a pencil case. What is a good material(s) to use for polishing out most of those tiny scratches? I'd use regular metal polish, but I'm concerned about it taking the finish off. It's the all chrome Century II. Thanks
  9. Thanks to my fellow FPNers (read: enablers), I've purchased a Waterman Ideal 52 12/V Red Ripple. From the seller's photos, it looks like a touch of polishing may be in order. What's better to use: Wenol (red label), Simichrome (which I already have, for the Esties), or something entirely different? Also, I assume a Sunshine cloth will be fine for the gold plated furniture, right...? And (since this is rolling along), what about 100% pure carnauba wax? Does that come into play? Please advise, Oh Wise Ones.
  10. Knox nibs from xfountainpens.com come in very handy when you want to customize a relatively cheap pen like a Jinhao or an Ahab to your liking. I have a predilection for the #6 K35 nibs in Extra Fine. There's just one problem: They only come in (faux?) yellow gold plate and in a particularly aggressive shade of gold to booth. When putting them in pens that already sport gold trim, these gold-toned nibs sort of match. When attached to chrome-trimmed pens, however, the mismatch is extreme and, to my eyes, painful. When customizing chrome-trimmed pens, I typically bite the bullet and order
  11. DrSterling

    Polishing Your Pens

    Hey Pelikan Forum, I picked up my first Pelikan a month or so ago, a gorgeous Souveran M805 in black. I absolutely love it, and It's become my daily writer for my notes in college. Despite keeping it in a pen case while it's not in use, it's picked up some very small and fine scratches. They're actually very difficult to see if the lighting isn't right or if you don't look closely. Although I know and accept that this is a natural occurrence in a daily use pen, I'm afraid that I've always been a perfectionist, and like to keep my belongings in the best possible condition. Does anyone here p
  12. TwelveDrawings

    Removing Cosmetic Scratches From Phileas

    If you use only vintage, high-quality fountain pen, please move on. This subject matter is strictly for people like me who mess around with "genuine, non-imitation" plastic fountain pens. Plastic pens can receive minor or major scratches. So can metal pens, but many metals can be polished to remove most scratches. My Waterman Phileas began life as an inexpensive student pen. No lacquer finish. No solid-gold nib (at least that I've seen). No wood, glass, or ivory inlay. It was and still is a molded plastic pen cast in one solid color (and others bear a faux-marble appearance). I shouldn't

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