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  1. Disclaimer: I am new to vintage fountain pens. I recently acquired a Mabie Todd Swan (photos of the pen and some scribbles below) and would appreciate assistance with the following items: I know very little about this pen and would like to learn about its provenance, approximate age, model and comparison with other Swan models, etc. The body of the pen is marked "Eternal" but the nib is not. Does this mean that the current nib replaced the original? The pen is a very nice writer once the ink is flowing; it can feel very smooth, provides nice line-width
  2. I recently started restoration on a Waterman's 52 in a nice cardinal red, but I have run into a problem I have never faced before. The nib and feed will NOT budge. I was able to remove the section just fine but the nib and feed have not moved a millimeter from my efforts. I have tried heat and grippers to remove by hand and I even used more heat than I am normally comfortable using to remove a nib and feed and it did not budge. I then moved over to my knock out block, I again used an excessive amount of force to knock the nib and feed and it still would not budge. I then tried dripping some mi
  3. Hello All: I am new to the fountain pen world, and have quickly ramped up my collection over the last year. I began with new pens, then discovered the joys (and sorrows) of vintage pen collecting. I've gotten some amazing deals and have been quite happy with my progress. I particularly love my numerous Esterbrooks with various nibs, a lovely little Arnold, Parkette, and several Sheaffer Lifetime Balance pens (all lever filled). As you can see, I don't have super high end pens, nor am I likely to, as I am on a budget. And then...I purchased some amazing pens, for great prices, but I t
  4. I have a Conway Stewart in excellent outside condition. I sent it to a pen repair person for a complete restoration, new sac, nib tuned and polished. I got it back and all it got was "grease" and does not fill or write. Charge was $17. (restoration quote was $40) Rather than pursue with this fellow and waste my time, are there any reputable pen restorers, repair persons in the USA, with an online website, that I can send my pen to for restoration and nib tuning and polish? Thanks for your help. jim
  5. I came across this pen that probably belonged to my grandfather. First of all I haven't been able to identify the pen or its age. It has a vacumatic fill and an ebonite feed. The ribbed section also seems to be made of ebonite and has some signs of whitening. The biggest problem with this pen is that the barrel has been sloppily glued to the section by some sort of adhesive, most probably many years after the pen was manufactured. The adhesive was quite brittle so I managed to carefully peel it off. What remains behind looks like damage to the barrel itself. The adhesive has dug small pit
  6. ALeonardoA

    Parker 51 12K Gold Cap Restoration Help

    Hello Members, I'm currently restoring my grandfather's Parker 51 with a 12K gold cap. The process been surprisingly smooth so far, thanks to YouTube and good luck probably, except I noticed that the nib of the pen doesn't seem quite right. It's a 14k nib and the tip is bent towards the right a bit. I don't have much experience with these pens and I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas about what options I have to remedy this problem. Would I have to purchase a new nib? If so, where can I find one? Could the nib be repaired? Any recommendations of who would be up to the task? I'd appreciate a
  7. Hi all, I have 3 vintage Sheaffer fountain pens that were recently passed down to me from my late great-grandfather. I know that one of them is for sure a Sheaffer Snorkel, but I'm not sure about the other two. Images of the Snorkel: https://imgur.com/a/TWdURQp Images of the brown pen: https://imgur.com/a/BYhi5jT Images of the green pen: https://imgur.com/a/2myBKsk The two unknown pens I'm fairly confident I can easily restore. They both AFAIK have petrified sacs, though one of them came apart and I was able to get it out. The Snorkel I am less confident about, given its complexity. I
  8. adamselene

    Wild Pelikan Needs Nurture

    What I do when my wife looks for plant racks for the garden in antique stores is ask to see pens, and its rarely rewarding. This time is was exciting. A sad looking pen, but the blunt rounded shape called for a closer look. Nib looked to have been polished many times, and I could only see K, (I really need to find time for cataract surgery). I have only modern Pels, but Ive seen 100s online. At home, I can read the nib with my loupe, and look at webpages, and its definitely an 100. Looks too delicate to do more than remove the cap. Now Its residing in a tray, and I refrain from t
  9. I am trying to rescue an estate-sale Sheaffer and am a little puzzled about what I'm finding. My main reference is the material at http://t.richardspens.com/ref/anatomy/vacfil.htm. This is my first Sheaffer teardown, so novice confusion is a possibility and I won't be insulted to be told I've misunderstood something. I'm going to try to make it clear what I've done. It looks to be a black Heritage Autograph Lifetime Balance with a vacuum filler. It has a clip ball with a flat top, a big "LIFETIME" conventional nib (with serial number) and feed, and an engraved signature on the 14K cap
  10. As the title says I am trying to restore an old sheaffer tuckaway but I am having trouble finding restoration guides specifically for it and instead find videos for restoring sheaffer touchdowns that to my knowledge have the same mechanisms it used in the tuckaway. If anyone has a more specific guide that would be very helpful as this would be my first attempt at a restoration. Also, when watching this video there is an o ring that needs to be placed in the Sheaffer Imperial but i am having trouble finding a notch for one....also what size o ring should i look for/ where is the best place to
  11. I just got a Waterman 452 1/2V from Ebay. It was described as being in "excellent condition". Upon arrival it got a basic cleaning. Pulling the fill lever, it was clear that the sack was either dust, or entirely missing. I just happened to have some number 16 sacs sitting around here (slated for a Lady Patricia restore). And they looked about the right size for this pen. My guess was not entirely correct, but the work-around was easy enough. With a #16 sac, it fit over the section well enough, but coaxing it down into the pen itself proved problematic, as it wanted to fold more than f
  12. I bought this pen on eBay recently and thought I'd stumbled on a wet noodle pen (seller had this in all caps in the title) for a steal at ~$62. Problem is, this pen is almost certainly not a wet noodle, as defined by going off of what I know of them, based on me trying to flex the tines. There's a fair amount of scratching, damage, and bite marks to it, which brings me to my next point. The section and barrel won't come apart, and the lever filler clip stops at a certain point. As someone who is totally inexperienced with restoration, could I restore it on my own or would it be better to send
  13. I bought this pen on eBay recently and thought I'd stumbled on a wet noodle pen (seller had this in all caps in the title) for a steal at ~$62. Problem is, this pen is almost certainly not a wet noodle, as defined by going off of what I know of them, based on me trying to flex the tines (which are about as flexible as an Ahab (so not very flexible at all), and much sharper, for those wondering). There's a fair amount of scratching, damage, and bite marks to it, which brings me to my next point. The section and barrel won't come apart, and the lever filler clip stops at a certain point. As some
  14. I bought this pen on eBay recently and thought I'd stumbled on a wet noodle pen (seller had this in all caps in the title) for a steal at ~$62. Problem is, this pen is almost certainly not a wet noodle, as defined by going off of what I know of them, based on me trying to flex the tines. There's a fair amount of scratching, damage, and bite marks to it, which brings me to my next point. The section and barrel won't come apart, and the lever filler clip stops at a certain point. As someone who is totally inexperienced with restoration, could I restore it on my own or would it be better to send
  15. Hi everyone, As a fountain pen collection and restoration enthusiast it has been very hard in my city to come across more affordable pens, after exhausting the selection of easily available ones (I have a tight budget as I am a student) However, a few days back I went to a stationary shop for some work and say that they had some old chelpark inks on display (ofcourse I bought all of them), curiously I asked the man if he had fountain pens, he told me that he had many old unsold ones and didn't know where they were, after a lot of persuation he agreed to look for them and have them ready i
  16. I received a very beautiful, if broken, vintage button filler some time ago and started working on it last week. It needs a new sac and this I can handle, but the pressure bar is quite rough and a little rusted in some places. This is my first repair so I'm not quite sure what I can and can't do. Should I replace the bar? I can't find a right size replacement (7 cm) anywhere so I'm thinking of just using this old one. The bar is not snapped or cracked and it's still very springy.
  17. Martolod

    Finding An Pelikan M150 Cap

    Hey all, I bought an M200, and was poking around what was left of my searches online. I found a barrel with working piston on eBay for an M150 ($35). Now I know the nibs can be found in loads of places probably for another $30. But, I didn't even think about the cap. Would it be difficult to find a cap for a Pelikan M150, or is it compatible with the caps for other Pelikans? Does it become financially unreasonable to get the 3 pieces separately? I thought it'd be a nice project to add to over time.
  18. idawood

    Restored A Vintage Pelikan Today

    I always wondered, about the reasons which made Pelikan pens so famous. Although, I have to admit I never used any Pelikan pen before. A few days ago, I saw an ad for an old Pelikan pen in the second-hand marketplace, so I took a gamble and purchased this Pelikan 400NN. It was a remote transactionss so I was not sure what was the condition of the pen. Images did not show any significant damage. I bought this pen for 70USD. Today I received the pen and as expected piston was almost jammed. With extra care, I could turn it. But luck was on my side, and when I tried to unscrew the nib section, th
  19. I just recently found (as in actually found, more on this later) an Esterbrook pen in surprisingly nice condition. The only issue is that it was missing the cap, but the nib, section, and barrel were all there and in mostly working condition. I decided I wanted to restore it as it's my first lever filler, and have since removed the old sac and fully cleaned its remnants. All that's left is waiting for parts to arrive. From what I can tell, the pen appears to be an Esterbrook dollar pen (*actually most likely a J series, as pajaro pointed out), but without the cap it's difficult to tell. It's
  20. Hello, Would anyone have any tips on removing the section from a Sheaffer Junior 275? I have tried soaking the pen, applying heat, and using section pliers, but the section just won't budge for me. Please see pics for reference. I currently have the nib and feed removed for cleaning since I couldn't get the section off to replace the sac.
  21. Hello, I've recently repaired a few Sheaffer vac-fillers using the method I often see in these parts of drilling through the barrel to the packing unit and picking out the rubber and felt. I then came across this method by Grandmia, in which he says that he soaked and heated the barrel, before using a dowel to knock out the packing unit for repair. I'm keenly interested in this method, what with the difficulty of alternatively picking out the packing unit through the barrel. Has anyone else tried this? Approximately how long does the barrel need to be soaked? (I've been soaking for three d
  22. MercianScribe

    Stupid Question?

    Maybe my basic physics is lacking... Dry heat works for separating sections and barrels and all kinds of other movements you may want to do. How does it work? If I apply heat to the join of a section and barrel, surely the section expands with the heat too, as well as the barrel threads if there are any, so why doesn't it become harder to get out of the barrel?
  23. razor5cl

    My First Vacumatic - Did I Screw Up?

    Hello all. I recently purchased my first Parker Vacumatic from eBay for the princely sum of £40. I assumed the pen not to be in a working condition with the intention of taking it to Henry Simpole in London for him to repair the mechanism(he charges around £40). And in due course when I received the pen its Speedline filling mechanism was completely shot - the button does not move at all, as expected. However one thing that was not evident in the poor quality pictures from the listing is that the nib is in fact not an original Parker nib but a "Phillips Oxford" 14ct gold nib! Some reading
  24. In 1959, the Montblanc line was redisigned, 142, 144 and 146 are retired, instead Montblanc was offering: Meisterstück: 12 (plastic, looked a bit like the Parker 45 and had a triangular capband) 14 (plastic, see above) 72 (with rolled gold cap) 74 (with rolled gold cap) 82 (with rolled gold cap and barrel) 84 (with rolled gold cap and barrel) 92 (in 14 carat solid gold cap and barrel) 94 (in 14 carat solid gold cap and barrel) Medium range: 22 (with 14 ct gol
  25. strelnikoff

    Waterman 58 Restoration

    Hi Waterman experts and aficionados! Can you please advise on really good and reputable Waterman's pen(s) restoration/repair person? Explanation: I presume it would be equally appropriate to ask/post this question in Repair and... etc - group on this forum, but this is Waterman specific question - thus I feel more comfortable asking here first. I have recently bought one Waterman 58 - and to date, this is my ... rarest, biggest, most precious Waterman pen. I'm still waiting for the package, it should be in my hands in a few days. From what I was told by a seller, it belonged to her g

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