Jump to content
Classifieds is broken, please do not submit any new ads ×

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'swan'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • FPN Community
    • FPN News
    • Introductions
    • Clubs, Meetings and Events
    • Pay It Forward, Loaner Programs & Group Buys
  • The Market Place
    • The Mall
    • Market Watch
    • Historical Sales Forums
  • Writing Instruments
    • Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
    • Fountain Pen Reviews
    • Of Nibs & Tines
    • It Writes, But It Is Not A Fountain Pen ....
    • Pen History
    • Repair Q&A
  • Brand Focus
    • Cross
    • Esterbrook
    • Lamy
    • Mabie Todd Research/Special Interest Forum/Group
    • Montblanc
    • Parker
    • Pelikan
    • Sheaffer
    • TWSBI
    • Wahl-Eversharp
    • Waterman
  • Regional Focus
    • China, Korea and Others (Far East, Asia)
    • Great Britain & Ireland - Europe
    • India & Subcontinent (Asia)
    • Italy - Europe
    • Japan - Asia
    • USA - North America
    • Other Brands - Europe
  • Inks, Inc.
    • Inky Thoughts
    • Ink Reviews
    • Ink Comparisons
    • Co-Razy-Views
    • Th-INKing Outside the Bottle
    • Inky Recipes
  • Paper, and Pen Accessories
    • Paper and Pen Paraphernalia
    • Paper & Pen Paraphernalia Reviews and Articles
  • Creative Expressions
    • Pen Turning and Making
    • Pictures & Pen Photography
    • The Write Stuff
    • Handwriting & Handwriting Improvement
    • Calligraphy Discussions
    • Pointed Pen Calligraphy
    • Broad (or Edged) Pen Calligraphy

Blogs

  • FPN Board Talk
  • Incoherent Ramblings from Murphy Towers
  • The Blogg of Me
  • FPN Admin Column
  • Rules, Guidelines, FAQs, Guides
  • Musings on matters pen
  • Marketing & Sales
  • Iguana Sell Pens Blog
  • Newton Pens' Blog
  • Peyton Street Pens Blog
  • holygrail's Blog
  • A Gift For Words
  • I Don't Have a Name; So This Will Do
  • Karas Kustoms' Blog
  • Debbie Ohi's Inky Journal
  • Sus Minervam docet
  • Crud!
  • Clut and Clutter

Product Groups

  • FPN Pens
  • FPN Inks
  • FPN Donations
  • Premium/Trading/Retailer Accounts

Categories

  • Fonts
  • Tools & Software
  • Rules for Notepads & Paper

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

  1. Here is a small self-filling Swan with a flexible #2 nib. I know little else about this pen and would appreciate any information (model, manufacture date, etc).
  2. Disclaimer: I am new to vintage fountain pens. I recently acquired a Mabie Todd Swan (photos of the pen and some scribbles below) and would appreciate assistance with the following items: I know very little about this pen and would like to learn about its provenance, approximate age, model and comparison with other Swan models, etc. The body of the pen is marked "Eternal" but the nib is not. Does this mean that the current nib replaced the original? The pen is a very nice writer once the ink is flowing; it can feel very smooth, provides nice line-width variation as the nib is flexible and I think stub-ish, and it lays down a lot of ink. At the same time, it's prone to hard starts and occasionally skips. It also looks like the feed might not be properly aligned with the nib. I would like to have the nib examined and tuned by a professional and was thinking of sending it to Mike Masuyama. Does this seem appropriate, or are there other nib experts I should consider? I would like to have the body of the pen cleaned up and restored prior to getting the nib worked on, but I have no idea who to send it to. Any recommendations? In particular, I would like to have some luster restored to the body, have the fins of the feed looked at as they seem to have some minor damage, and have it cleaned up (the pen has a bit of a smell which, although gradually dissipating, remains pretty strong inside the cap). The tip of the nib looks a bit slanted to me. I know only so much is possible with photos, but can anyone tell if it's because this nib has an oblique grind or if it's some sort of alignment issue?
  3. Dear readers, I was hoping you could help identify this pen. Searching for "Swan piston filler" and derivatives thereof have not yielded any helpful information. I'm looking to disassemble and restore this pen, as it is leaky from both ends. Many thanks for any help you can offer. If pictures are of too low a quality, I can provide better ones.
  4. Hi, this is my finest stub and my oldest pen. A pre-1907 Mabie Todd & Bard Swan 3003 eyedropper with "short nib, fine" as it was called those times. And when they said fine, a very fine nib was meant: This one gives 0.28 to 0.30mm lines vertically and 0.21mm horizontally on paper. Best wishes Jens
  5. Hi, I've been looking for a second Swan eye dropper and so this one made it's way from England. It is a 3202 MED with stub nib made ca. 1915 to 1920 with an original leather pouch. I think it was good luck to find such a nice pen... Some photos, the Swan as it came, not much to do for restauration, needs some reallignment of the tines. Best wishes Jens
  6. I managed to win this pretty little number yesterday...I dont know if youd call the pattern Marble or Reverse Cracked Ice, but it looks in decent shape so should be fun to write with. Well know more when it gets here.
  7. Hi all! Im a vague fountain pen fan but I dont have a lot of technical knowledge. Weve found two old pens which have been passed down from my grandparents, one Swan and one Parker. Both are in working condition as far as I can see, although need a bit of TLC. Not sure of the age but probably mid-19th Century. The Swan is plain black with gold banding, Swan 2 14ct gold nib. Labelled Swan Self-Filler, Mabie Todd and Co Ltd, Made in England. The Parker is black with copper-y shell-looking inlay. Nib is gold in colour but not sure of the material. Any information on these pens and whether theyd be worth anything would be great! Thank you so much. Will try to attach some photos!
  8. This beauty arrived today. No model number anyway. New York made. 1915 patent pending date on clip. Swan self filler imprint on barrel. #3 nib. Similar to the SM1/60 but a metal lever.
  9. Hi everyone! I have just been told by my cousin that I am going to be receiving a fountain pen from inheritance. The pen is a Swan 4660. My question is, what is a respectable price for a Swan 4660 that is near mint/mint possibly unused? I have NO intention of selling, and am not interested in the ridiculous amounts things go for on ebay - I'm simply wondering what a pen such as this is worth approximately given no unrealistic bidding etc? To me it is priceless and may or may not be used by me ever, I'm scared to use something possibly new old stock. While we're at it, what would a used but excellent condition one be worth being reasonable with pricing? Sorry that this is a weird question, I'd just rather know if I should protect this pen not only for personal reasons, but also monetary reasons. Thank you all! If I get the pen soon, I will upload photos!
  10. I have a Swan lever less with very nice engraving but I'm reluctant trying to service it. Any suggestions? it's dated 1953 would that be accurate? since it is valuable I'm doubting between selling as is or servicing more pictures on my website
  11. Hi, I restored a vintage Mabie Todd Swan L212/52 in lapis lazuli colored celluloid made ca. 1936. This one has a longer section and a flatter turning knop than my L212/60, so I suspect it to be an early version... It's nib is a medium stub with nice flex. A turned up nib. Best Jens
  12. I have Swan lever less with very nice engraving but I'm reluctant trying to service it. Any suggestions? it's dated 1953 would that be accurate? since it is valuable I'm doubting between selling as is or servicing
  13. KingRoach

    Swan 6242 Overflowing Feed

    I have this Swan 6242 with a new sac. I've double and triple checked that I have no air leaks nowhere, and the feed is set to the nib, but the latter laways gets soaked with ink immediately when the pen points downwards and that builds up slowly. A minute shake will send ink flying. It occurred to me that the feed might have been changed from a different pen at some point, but to be honest it's a good tight fit so I can't see it being that. What are your thoughts? Video in this link https://www.dropbox.com/s/i62lhecpwih15a3/20191010_161330.mp4?dl=0
  14. Hi, last week a stunning Swan #2 tuned up nib arrived on a Swan L212/60 (late 1930s). It has a double pointed tipping: downside a F with good flex and on the top a real needlepoint! The L212 isn't restored yet, so I took a 6260 for a writing sample on A5 paper with 5mm squares: Some details of the nib and tipping: I haven't seen such a nib before, it seems to be a lucky find... Best Jens
  15. My wife has dug out an old Swan Leverless which she says belonged to her grandmother. It has not been used for many decades. I'd like to know hold old it might be, and what model number. The barrel is stamped with a swan logo surrounded by this text: SWAN LEVERLESS PEN MABIE TODD & CO LTD MADE IN ENGLAND TRADE MARK PAT. APP. FOR The clip also bears a swan logo. The section is stamped with: SWAN The nib is engraved with: "SWAN" 4 14 CT MABIE TODD & CO LTD The section is loose in rotation, maybe an eight of a turn. The filler cap also rotates, perhaps a third of a turn, but does not appear to suck up any ink. I want to take it apart for inspection and cleaning, and probable replacement of sac. I've tried warming it up with a hair drier and pulling firmly, but it won't budge. Can anyone confirm that it is definitely a push fit, and suggest why it might turn but not pull out?
  16. Hi everyone! I have been interested in vintage pens for a while, and finally bought my first one at the DC show yesterday. I got a Swan Le Merle Blanc pen that looked like it was in great condition, and the seller was really informative. I ran home and inked up the pen, excited about my new purchase. However, this morning, when I was journaling with it, it ran dry after a little more than a page (which made me think that only the feed got saturated, even though I had searched for tips on fully filling a vintage lever-filler before inking it yesterday). I tried filling it again, and the same thing happened. So now I'm worried that either I'm doing something wrong or there's something wrong with the pen. When I filled the pen, I opened the lever, submerged it in the ink, closed the lever, and let it sit for 10 seconds. I didn't hear any sloshing liquid that would indicated a low fill, but now I think that just meant that it didn't fill at all. In terms of something being wrong with the pen, the seller (who had a large stock of well-restored pens) told me that this was an unused vintage pen with a new sack. Is there something else I can try to do differently? Does it sound like its definitely something wrong with the pen? If it is a problem with the pen, how and where would I go to try to get it fixed? I don't think I'm comfortable doing repair work on my own, but I also am not trying to spend a lot of money, since I was trying to stick to a budget and bought this pen thinking it was already restored and in good condition. I'm really disappointed that this happened, especially with my first vintage purchase. Also I've read a lot of different advice on what inks are or aren't safe for vintage pens. It sounds like my iroshizuku inks (which are my lowest maintenance inks) might not be the best choice. Would Aurora or Montblanc inks be safer? Are there any other tips people need to know when they get their first vintage pens? Thank you in advance for the advice. I really hope I can get this worked out soon, since I was so excited to finally get a vintage pen.
  17. Lunoxmos

    Mabie Todd & Co 'swan' Ink

    I recently went down to an antique shop and I happened to find some 'Swan' Ink bottles, made by Mabie Todd & Co in Sydney Australia. One bottle was labeled "PERMANENT BLUE BLACK" while the other was "VIVID RED". They appear to have what is most likely dried ink in them, though there is a chance that the permanent blue-black one contains iron oxide sediment at the bottom considering it is most likely an iron gall ink. Is it possible that I could receive some information on them (there doesn't appear to be much about it online), as well as whether it is safe to reconstitute the ink inside of them? Also. since there appears to be rust on the caps, how would I open the bottles without having to smash the glass or any other method that involve s the destruction of the bottle? (Or should they stay closed?)
  18. Hello everyone. Am the proud owner of 2 new-to-me Swans - both BHR SF 200C Fine models. One has a round top cap, the other a flat top cap. The shape of the sections is different, as are the nibs. One is in perfect working condition, but the other's lever is not attached to the barrel in any way. It is attached to the pressure bar. How does the lever stay in place usually? Am I missing a part? A ring perhaps, or a pin? Many thanks, Nick Also, this nib is very different than my other one. Marked 2 K, it looks like it should be flexible, with long thin tines. But it is not. Surprisingly firm, in fact. The other one is a full flex thing of beauty.
  19. Hi, I'm waiting for a about 100 years (?) old Mabie Todd Swan eyedropper from Ireland. I found the nib fascinating... Will it be fine, much flex? My pen doesn't have an overfeed, is it missing here? Some photos here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/EARLY-20th-C-SWAN-PEN-MABIE-TODD-SWAN-PEN-SWAN-METAL-POCKET-1915-/153109745032 Can't wait to see how it writes. Best Jens
  20. This is a follow up to an April 2018 thread which had a great discussion, but was not labeled well and did not feature all the colors. I have now collected all six colors of the Moire ring top pens, which seemed worth a post to summarize these pens. I also have two slightly larger moire geometric pens posted here. Ads place these along with the 1920s colored pens (142 series), and they have the classic 1920s flat top style. The ends of the barrels are stamped (but not always as usual). Only my Coral pen is not stamped. N/92 = Nile Green F/92 = fuchsia C/92 = coral B/92 = blue M/92 = Ivory (my pen below has a green discoloration. The coral pen shows the ivory color better) L/92 = Lavender I have not seen ads with the M/92 color, so I will continue the name used by Moak. The pens are about 3 7/8 inches capped (give or take). They post to a usable size. Swan #2 nibs were found in all my examples. The Ivory and Coral are mirror image color patterned The blue band on the fuchsia is a lapis style blue with white fleck. The lavender seems prone to fading to gray (I showed the good side of my pen). The Ivory seems prone to discoloration or staining based on the dark staining of the pen in the Moak book, and the green tint on my pen (which had other green stains on the outside that I sanded off).
  21. The top one is an Onoto 6233. Certainly a beauty, very nice and balanced to hold and to write with. I got it from an auction along with a bunch of other interesting pens and it proved a nightmare to repair, certainly due to some extent to my lack of experience, but also to the trickiness of the plunger filling system. It took me no less than four orders from Custom Pen Parts to get it to fill properly. Now, the nib is certainly very nice and soft, though not a flex one. The ink flow seems to be as much of a nightmare as the filling system. Most of the time the ink flow is stingy, with Diamine China Blue. However, at times, it reminds me of a dip pen when just taken out of an ink well, as I remember from when I learnt to write, back in the fifties. It just keeps dripping. I know that before starting to write with a plunger filler you have to unscrew half a turn the blind knob, in order to open the flow valve. However this doesn't seem to have any immediate effect. If the nib is dry, no opening of the valve will bring the ink down unless you shake the pen several times and nicely sprinkle whatever you've got around you. Conversely, once the ink starts overflowing, no locking of the valve will stop it for a while. So that's my experience with an Onoto. The pen below in the picture is a Swan 3260, which I bought on Ebay. It's not particularly beautiful, in fact, rather plain looking. It is a lever filler, which I cleaned, resaked and got to write with no problems. The nib is semi-flex and writing with it is a lovely experience. The pen is absolutely no-nonsense: it does what it is meant for and does it flawlessly. I bought another one on Ebay, shortly after, a 6260. The nib writes too fine for my writing, but I love to use it for drawing. As a bottom line: I wish I could write with my beautiful Onoto, but always fall back on my Swan.
  22. Picked up a Mabie Todd L330/60 from the antique market yesterday ($25CAD), as my first dip into vintage pens... From the info gathered searching through this forum, I figured out it's a black rubber leverless model (pre-war) with a #3 gold nib. The nib is in decent shape and buttery soft with some flex; it fits on a Noodler's Charlie, so I've been playing around with that frankenpen for now. So I opened up the L330 from the nib section end; the sac had disintegrated but the pressure bar looks intact and the twist-button mechanism turns smoothly. I'm not sure how to open 'er up from the bottom though... I don't want to break the twist-fill button or anything. And I've searched online for repair videos and there's nothing for this particular model, though there's a lot for other MT leverless pens. Questions: - does anyone have info about this pen? - any tips on cleaning/polishing hard rubber? - anyone disassembled/repaired this one before and can offer tips? - I measured the nipple at 18/64"... so the pen should take a size 18 sac, right? - the pressure bar goes to about the top band on the body... from the repair book photo it doesn't look like it needs an extension... am I right? Any and all info would be greatly appreciated!! I can't wait to rock this pen as an EDC, taking notes at uni all day
  23. Hello everyone! I'm new to Fountain pen restoration and picked up this lovely Mabie Todd Swan self filler, but don't know a whole lot about it. Things I do know, it's a number 1 nib with a special trim level, but can anyone fill me in on what year it may have been made and whatnot?
  24. For those who are interested in the history of fountain pens, you are undoubtedly familiar with The American Stationer. This was the major trade publication for the stationery and fancy goods trade from the 1870's through the 1920's. The amount of information from the articles and advertisements is invaluable to researchers and the merely curious. For a while we had some big gaps, and some important ones. Recently we saw the critical 1900-1901 issues digitized, but there are still about a dozen missing volumes. (after 1880, all years were bound into two volumes, one for Jan-Jun, one for July-Dec). I was recently able to get a bound copy of one of these missing volumes, vol. 70, from the second half of 1911. I'm in the process of exploring options for getting it scanned and OCR's so that it can be added to the list of online versions of this critical resource. I received the volume in the mail yesterday all the way from Germany. Yes, it was in Germany. It's in great condition. I took a few quick snapshots with my iPhone on my dining room table last night to send to a possible collaborator and the images are so fun I couldn't resist sharing them with y'all. These aren't great scans, but they give you an idea of what the ads are like. The real surprise were the color inserts. I've found three so far: one for Hardtmuth pencils, one for Hardtmuth tracing paper and one for Waterman pens. These are gorgeous, full-page ads. The Hardtmuth pencil one in particular has a ton of color and even shiny silver highlights. Anyway, here are a few ads from 1911.
  25. Dear all, I have the good fortune of a Swan 242 1/2 50 in my collection. My pen came with its original guarantee slip (fun for a 100 years on), and in a presentation box. However, as far as I can see in the advertising, Mabie Todd didnt make presentation boxes for single pens (only pens with pencils) for this model and at this time? I can only assume the branded, cardboard box the pen came was discarded at some point and the guarantee and pen itself transposed. Although it seems strange that someone went to such effort to conserve the form, unfilled in and redundant? Aside - Im intrigued to know what the packaging options were for this pen. Perhaps one day Ill cross paths with something period and correct in which to make this lovely jade example at home! Best.





×
×
  • Create New...