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  1. Hello everyone, I was reading a childhood memoir by Satyajit Ray (renowned Indian film-maker and writer). There, he mentioned of "black Waterman and Swan fountain pens which were made of a material called Gutta Percha". As a fountain pen enthusiast, naturally, I was curious. A quick Google search showed something related to dentistry instead of what I was looking for. Wikipedia says it is a form of latex. Does anybody have any idea what is Gutta Percha? Also, does anyone own a waterman or swan (or any other brand's pen) made of this material? warm regards, Auntor
  2. OldTravelingShoe

    20220522_083824.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  3. OldTravelingShoe

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    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  4. OldTravelingShoe

    20220522_083854.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  5. OldTravelingShoe

    20220522_083757.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  6. OldTravelingShoe

    20220522_083721.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  7. OldTravelingShoe

    20220522_083639.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  8. OldTravelingShoe

    20220522_083618.jpg

    From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens

    © (c) 2022 OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.


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  9. Here is a small self-filling Swan with a flexible #2 nib. I know little else about this pen and would appreciate any information (model, manufacture date, etc).
  10. Disclaimer: I am new to vintage fountain pens. I recently acquired a Mabie Todd Swan (photos of the pen and some scribbles below) and would appreciate assistance with the following items: I know very little about this pen and would like to learn about its provenance, approximate age, model and comparison with other Swan models, etc. The body of the pen is marked "Eternal" but the nib is not. Does this mean that the current nib replaced the original? The pen is a very nice writer once the ink is flowing; it can feel very smooth, provides nice line-width variation as the nib is flexible and I think stub-ish, and it lays down a lot of ink. At the same time, it's prone to hard starts and occasionally skips. It also looks like the feed might not be properly aligned with the nib. I would like to have the nib examined and tuned by a professional and was thinking of sending it to Mike Masuyama. Does this seem appropriate, or are there other nib experts I should consider? I would like to have the body of the pen cleaned up and restored prior to getting the nib worked on, but I have no idea who to send it to. Any recommendations? In particular, I would like to have some luster restored to the body, have the fins of the feed looked at as they seem to have some minor damage, and have it cleaned up (the pen has a bit of a smell which, although gradually dissipating, remains pretty strong inside the cap). The tip of the nib looks a bit slanted to me. I know only so much is possible with photos, but can anyone tell if it's because this nib has an oblique grind or if it's some sort of alignment issue?
  11. Dear readers, I was hoping you could help identify this pen. Searching for "Swan piston filler" and derivatives thereof have not yielded any helpful information. I'm looking to disassemble and restore this pen, as it is leaky from both ends. Many thanks for any help you can offer. If pictures are of too low a quality, I can provide better ones.
  12. Hi, this is my finest stub and my oldest pen. A pre-1907 Mabie Todd & Bard Swan 3003 eyedropper with "short nib, fine" as it was called those times. And when they said fine, a very fine nib was meant: This one gives 0.28 to 0.30mm lines vertically and 0.21mm horizontally on paper. Best wishes Jens
  13. Hi, I've been looking for a second Swan eye dropper and so this one made it's way from England. It is a 3202 MED with stub nib made ca. 1915 to 1920 with an original leather pouch. I think it was good luck to find such a nice pen... Some photos, the Swan as it came, not much to do for restauration, needs some reallignment of the tines. Best wishes Jens
  14. I managed to win this pretty little number yesterday...I dont know if youd call the pattern Marble or Reverse Cracked Ice, but it looks in decent shape so should be fun to write with. Well know more when it gets here.
  15. Hi all! Im a vague fountain pen fan but I dont have a lot of technical knowledge. Weve found two old pens which have been passed down from my grandparents, one Swan and one Parker. Both are in working condition as far as I can see, although need a bit of TLC. Not sure of the age but probably mid-19th Century. The Swan is plain black with gold banding, Swan 2 14ct gold nib. Labelled Swan Self-Filler, Mabie Todd and Co Ltd, Made in England. The Parker is black with copper-y shell-looking inlay. Nib is gold in colour but not sure of the material. Any information on these pens and whether theyd be worth anything would be great! Thank you so much. Will try to attach some photos!
  16. This beauty arrived today. No model number anyway. New York made. 1915 patent pending date on clip. Swan self filler imprint on barrel. #3 nib. Similar to the SM1/60 but a metal lever.
  17. Hi everyone! I have just been told by my cousin that I am going to be receiving a fountain pen from inheritance. The pen is a Swan 4660. My question is, what is a respectable price for a Swan 4660 that is near mint/mint possibly unused? I have NO intention of selling, and am not interested in the ridiculous amounts things go for on ebay - I'm simply wondering what a pen such as this is worth approximately given no unrealistic bidding etc? To me it is priceless and may or may not be used by me ever, I'm scared to use something possibly new old stock. While we're at it, what would a used but excellent condition one be worth being reasonable with pricing? Sorry that this is a weird question, I'd just rather know if I should protect this pen not only for personal reasons, but also monetary reasons. Thank you all! If I get the pen soon, I will upload photos!
  18. I have a Swan lever less with very nice engraving but I'm reluctant trying to service it. Any suggestions? it's dated 1953 would that be accurate? since it is valuable I'm doubting between selling as is or servicing more pictures on my website
  19. Hi, I restored a vintage Mabie Todd Swan L212/52 in lapis lazuli colored celluloid made ca. 1936. This one has a longer section and a flatter turning knop than my L212/60, so I suspect it to be an early version... It's nib is a medium stub with nice flex. A turned up nib. Best Jens
  20. I have Swan lever less with very nice engraving but I'm reluctant trying to service it. Any suggestions? it's dated 1953 would that be accurate? since it is valuable I'm doubting between selling as is or servicing
  21. KingRoach

    Swan 6242 Overflowing Feed

    I have this Swan 6242 with a new sac. I've double and triple checked that I have no air leaks nowhere, and the feed is set to the nib, but the latter laways gets soaked with ink immediately when the pen points downwards and that builds up slowly. A minute shake will send ink flying. It occurred to me that the feed might have been changed from a different pen at some point, but to be honest it's a good tight fit so I can't see it being that. What are your thoughts? Video in this link https://www.dropbox.com/s/i62lhecpwih15a3/20191010_161330.mp4?dl=0
  22. Hi, last week a stunning Swan #2 tuned up nib arrived on a Swan L212/60 (late 1930s). It has a double pointed tipping: downside a F with good flex and on the top a real needlepoint! The L212 isn't restored yet, so I took a 6260 for a writing sample on A5 paper with 5mm squares: Some details of the nib and tipping: I haven't seen such a nib before, it seems to be a lucky find... Best Jens
  23. My wife has dug out an old Swan Leverless which she says belonged to her grandmother. It has not been used for many decades. I'd like to know hold old it might be, and what model number. The barrel is stamped with a swan logo surrounded by this text: SWAN LEVERLESS PEN MABIE TODD & CO LTD MADE IN ENGLAND TRADE MARK PAT. APP. FOR The clip also bears a swan logo. The section is stamped with: SWAN The nib is engraved with: "SWAN" 4 14 CT MABIE TODD & CO LTD The section is loose in rotation, maybe an eight of a turn. The filler cap also rotates, perhaps a third of a turn, but does not appear to suck up any ink. I want to take it apart for inspection and cleaning, and probable replacement of sac. I've tried warming it up with a hair drier and pulling firmly, but it won't budge. Can anyone confirm that it is definitely a push fit, and suggest why it might turn but not pull out?
  24. Hi everyone! I have been interested in vintage pens for a while, and finally bought my first one at the DC show yesterday. I got a Swan Le Merle Blanc pen that looked like it was in great condition, and the seller was really informative. I ran home and inked up the pen, excited about my new purchase. However, this morning, when I was journaling with it, it ran dry after a little more than a page (which made me think that only the feed got saturated, even though I had searched for tips on fully filling a vintage lever-filler before inking it yesterday). I tried filling it again, and the same thing happened. So now I'm worried that either I'm doing something wrong or there's something wrong with the pen. When I filled the pen, I opened the lever, submerged it in the ink, closed the lever, and let it sit for 10 seconds. I didn't hear any sloshing liquid that would indicated a low fill, but now I think that just meant that it didn't fill at all. In terms of something being wrong with the pen, the seller (who had a large stock of well-restored pens) told me that this was an unused vintage pen with a new sack. Is there something else I can try to do differently? Does it sound like its definitely something wrong with the pen? If it is a problem with the pen, how and where would I go to try to get it fixed? I don't think I'm comfortable doing repair work on my own, but I also am not trying to spend a lot of money, since I was trying to stick to a budget and bought this pen thinking it was already restored and in good condition. I'm really disappointed that this happened, especially with my first vintage purchase. Also I've read a lot of different advice on what inks are or aren't safe for vintage pens. It sounds like my iroshizuku inks (which are my lowest maintenance inks) might not be the best choice. Would Aurora or Montblanc inks be safer? Are there any other tips people need to know when they get their first vintage pens? Thank you in advance for the advice. I really hope I can get this worked out soon, since I was so excited to finally get a vintage pen.
  25. Lunoxmos

    Mabie Todd & Co 'swan' Ink

    I recently went down to an antique shop and I happened to find some 'Swan' Ink bottles, made by Mabie Todd & Co in Sydney Australia. One bottle was labeled "PERMANENT BLUE BLACK" while the other was "VIVID RED". They appear to have what is most likely dried ink in them, though there is a chance that the permanent blue-black one contains iron oxide sediment at the bottom considering it is most likely an iron gall ink. Is it possible that I could receive some information on them (there doesn't appear to be much about it online), as well as whether it is safe to reconstitute the ink inside of them? Also. since there appears to be rust on the caps, how would I open the bottles without having to smash the glass or any other method that involve s the destruction of the bottle? (Or should they stay closed?)





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