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  1. Conklin Duragraph Fountain Pen, Amber - 1.1 MM Steel Stub Nib Hello, I recently purchased this pen recently for $32 on Amazon. I'd love to know what my options are for swapping between the screw-out nib units for this pen. I obviously know that I can get the Conklin replacements. I'm wondering if it uses a standard size that can be swapped out for those of different manufacturers. I tried my Franklin Christoph nib - no joy there. It the FC unit just spun in place. Also, I looked for this information before hitting you guys up. I'm also interested in how to find this out for myself nex
  2. I never used flex, broad, BB, stub, oblique or italic nibs in any pens so far. And I want to try out. I want to select a pen model that is relatively inexpensive that will fit these nib types. I will keep my options restricted to nib manufacturers in India or nibs that are available for purchase in India. Just to clear my confusion around nib size, and nib width - I understand that the size (with numbers like #5, #6) refers to the dimensions of the nib. And if I understand correctly there is no uniform size comparison and it varies between pens. Correct me if I am wrong. The only compreh
  3. Hi, I've been looking for a second Swan eye dropper and so this one made it's way from England. It is a 3202 MED with stub nib made ca. 1915 to 1920 with an original leather pouch. I think it was good luck to find such a nice pen... Some photos, the Swan as it came, not much to do for restauration, needs some reallignment of the tines. Best wishes Jens
  4. cullercoats

    Pilot Stub Nibs

    Hello everyone. Can you help me? I have a Pilot 912 with a music nib. I am tempted to buy another with a stub nib. What is the difference between the Pilot #10 stub nib on the 912 and 742 and the #15 stub on the 743? Has anybody compared the two? I should be only too pleased to benefit from your experience. Thank you Adrian
  5. This is a Parker 75 medium stub ciselé of around 1968-1971. Writing sample: The line thickness it produces is about 0.9 mm in width. This width is comfortable for writing characters of medium size (see also the writing comparison). The pen’s triangular section is thin, but it is very comfortable to hold. The pen as a whole is on the smaller side, but the nib is big. Since the pen is of some vintage it is a stub proper rather than cursive italic, i.e. the tipping is noticeably thick with the writing edge noticeably but not drastically rounded (see schematic). The side edges are n
  6. This is a long-term review meaning that it is based on roughly 18 months experience with the particular pen. Pilot 78g Broad (stub): After enjoying playing with my 1.1mm Lamy Joy, I thought it would be nice to add some other italic pens to my collection. The Lamy 1.1mm nib is smooth and pleasant to write with, but lacks sharp line variation and is, perhaps, a touch too broad for extensive notetaking. Based on my experience with Japanese nibs running thinner than western, I gambled that the Pilot 78g might serve this purpose better. So I bought a green one from Speerbob (great eBay seller,
  7. Hi, I restored a vintage Mabie Todd Swan L212/52 in lapis lazuli colored celluloid made ca. 1936. This one has a longer section and a flatter turning knop than my L212/60, so I suspect it to be an early version... It's nib is a medium stub with nice flex. A turned up nib. Best Jens
  8. lmboyer

    To Stub Or Not To Stub

    I'm considering trying something new here but unsure whether it will really suit my liking or not. I am starting to look for the next addition to my collection and I'm looking for a new brand and a new writing experience (though hopefully one I like, not one that's just different). I'm wondering about stub nibs, knowing that they have quite a following in the FP world. I'm also looking at a few new brands I haven't tried yet (mainly Visconti but unfortunately their steel nibs as the gold/palladium are a bit out of my price range, so it would be the Rembrandt). One of my favorite pens so far
  9. I've only been using round nibs, and principally write cursive (right handed) during the course of a workday, which is not a lot of writing. I've been thinking about getting a stub or a cursive italic for my next pen - love the line variation. My handwriting is not great, and am a little hesitant about getting a sharp edged, not forgiving nib. So thinking of a (Italic) Stub or Cursive Italic, both of which, according to Richard Binder's essays on nibs, are supposed to be smoother and easier to use than a pure Italic nib. I don't want to spend a lot of money getting a custom nib at this point
  10. "Stub" nibs seem always (**) to be ground flat not only on the bottom and end, making the angle that contacts the paper and gives directional line variation, but also on the top which never (*) contacts paper. When customizing an ordinary ball-tipped nib to make a stub, why go through the extra step of grinding off the top? I know it is not necessary for writing to flatten the top/back of a round nib, nor of a CI: I have a cursive-italic nib, customized from a broad, that is an EF for writing upside-down, rather the opposite of flat. Yes, I know that a "stub" and a "cursive italic"
  11. Calligraphy lovers rejoice! Today Shanghai Jingdian started offering sets of five italic nib units that will screw into Delike pens and a few models of Moonman pens. These are currently in their Taobao store, but keep your eyes peeled for them to start showing up on eBay soon. http://m.tb.cn/h.37htpcP?sm=9758e2
  12. Over the years I've acquired a suite of pens with modified nibs, and I thought it would be interesting and possibly useful to show a progression of different nib sizes. These are all Nakaya nibs modified by John Mottishaw, all are loaded with Pelikan Blue Black ink, and the samples are written on Rhodia 80 gsm paper with a line spacing of 7 mm. I also included samples from a few other pens for comparison. The nib grinds vary from stub to cursive italic - the smooth cursive italics are somewhere in between. For those, I asked John to grind the nib to provide as much line variation as possibl
  13. Some people can wield a big, fat stub and get amazing results. Not me. I'm a sloppy writer and still learning basic penmanship. I rotate my pens and stubs don't like that. I write fast, and stubs don't always forgive me for it. Just for fun, I made a quick comparison of the stubs that I have in my collection at the moment. ^---normal writing speed at left, slow in the middle, fast at right The TWSBI 1.1 stub I've personally got three of those, in two pens: the Eco and the Go. One is nice (in the Eco), one is okay (in the Go), one is sharp, scratchy, dry, unusable and out of rotation. T
  14. I am considering getting Lamy 2000 EF from "nibsmith" and getting it ground to left foot oblique in stub. Any idea what kind of line width and variation it would result in? My intention is to achieve a fine stub, similar to the 'Fine' stub of Pilot Plumix / Pluminix pen, which is quite fine, probably 0.5mm. It is fine enough for normal daily use and faster writing but still gives a character to the writing.
  15. I first heard about Leonardo Officina Italiana pens from an Instagram posting by Glenn Marcus. His pen looked gorgeous, and he spoke very highly of it. Looking into this “new” company, I find it has been around for several decades, but, while they have made pens for a number of other well-known Italian pen companies, they only recently began making pens with their own branding. They call the first of their models “Momento Zero,” meaning for them “a new beginning.” Given the recent demise of several highly esteemed Italian pen makers and the rumored distress of some others, it is wonderful to
  16. NJEF

    Twsbi 1.1Mm Stub Or Medium Nib?

    Hi. I'm planning on buying myself a Twsbi Eco just after Christmas, and I'm torn between which nib to get - A stub or a medium. Typically I write quite quickly, and reasonably small with a medium nib, but I really love the look of writing with a stub. There is a photograph of my handwriting written with a Waterman Gentleman with an 18k gold Medium nib, inked with Waterman Black ink. What do you think? Thanks!
  17. Review of the Visconti Homo Sapiens Bronze 1.3mm stub Note: Higher-res photos available here This week I finally gave in and purchased a Visconti Homo Sapiens Bronze with a 1.3mm stub nib. Ever since I first saw photos of this stunning pen, I've been wanting to own one. Lava, bronze, palladium and titanium? Yes, please! This is my second fountain pen. This January I got myself a Waterman Carène with a fine nib, followed by a stub nib about two months later. While it is a very nice pen, I just couldn't resist the even wider nib, the unusual look and materials, and the supposedly very smooth
  18. Hello, I would like to pick a Pen from F-C and I have doubts between Medium Italic vs Stub in steel from Meister Masuyama. I would like to know your feedback if you have tried both. I would pick up an italic because it is supposed to have more line variation. But I am afraid it to be very scratchy, I don't mind if it has a bit of feedback, like a sailor or so, but not too much that it is bothering. Would an italic from Masuyama be smooth or scratchy? Or something in between? I am used to write in cursive, since in Spain print script it is not taught in school. Also it would be great to see wri
  19. Hello, Can anyone please advise from experience if the Montegrappa Exta 1930 Broad nib is stubbish? I am aware that their medium nib runs slightly narrow, but I don't want a greater line width if it is devoid of character. Any advice or writing samples would be much appreciated
  20. Hey Everyone, I've just sent back my Franklin-Christoph medium S.I.G grind in order to exchange for a broad Masuyama italic. Don't get me wrong: the SIG nib was great to write with and I liked it very much; but, since you can't buy Masuyama grinds separately like you can a sig, I've opted for the CI. I'm also interested in learning an italic handwriting script some time, so this makes sense long-term. Now, however, I'm hearing that Masuyama italic grinds are dry writers. One post I've come across was particularly bothersome in that the OP said their f-c Masuyama italic required loads
  21. This one is a Milord Vision in green with a factory stub nib. Its my only Omas with a stub. I was always under the impression that their broad nib was considered a stub but this one is very different. I picked it up secondhand but the nib profile appears to be factory stub along with the engraving on the nib. I cant confirm or deny if someone besides Omas had worked on the nib but it looks and writes like it was ground by a drunken baby. It railroads at the drop of a hat and the grind on the bottom of the nib is super uneven and grainy. I can see the unevenness by eye. I cant believe t
  22. Hello again to all my FP friends! I just wanted to share some writing samples of the 4 nibs I had custom ground by fpnibs.com (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer). Their work is fantastic, reasonably priced, and with excellent service. These nibs all write wonderfully. The 1.1 Oblique Cursive Italic is especially dreamy and now a daily user for me.
  23. slurry

    Converting A Vp Stub To Fine

    Hi All, Any suggestions on modifying a VP stub nib to fine/extra fine. I have successfully transformed a few standard medium nibs to a very smooth fine using a 4K, 8K and 10K honing stones, but the VP stub is a bit nonstandard. Any suggestions, tips, guides, examples etc... are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, .
  24. Woweeeeee... Too bad it shot past my self imposed limit of £150 + S&H. All things considered the price it eventually went for wasn't so bad but too much for me atm. To be honest, I already have one 51 with a factory original 1.1-1.2 mm stub (juicy but would like it to be more crisp). It was just that that nib was... so achingly clean and shaped so nicely. I can almost see it leaving behind a beautiful wide, wet but crisp line with amazing line variation. Oh well, the hunt is still on, just lovely to see an outstanding specimen like that.
  25. I been looking for a cheap way to try stub nib... but so far it seems to cost me around 10 bucks minimum... however someone suggest that I should buy jinhou nib and make it myself... well i dont have any Jinhou nib, but I do have a Wing Sung nib that come with my 698.. and it seems like making stub nib is as easy as cutting it with a side cutter and sanding it down... so is there anything else I need to know before I start butchering my wing sung nib? www.youtube.com/watch?v=rG6_4GK8QCE&t





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