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Further research and consulting have let me know this is a Frankenpen. The cap is German from Imperial Pen company. But they never made lever fillers. The barrel labeled Rikkers and Eton is most likely Dutch made by one of those companies. I have no details as to the association of Rikkers or Eton. Anyone that knows something about these companies would love to hear more. I am reposting this in the European forum. So Myk Daigle sent this to me as a practice repair pen. The plating on the clip was gone, covered in verdigris as was the lever. It used to have a metal
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First Vintage Pen - Problem And Advice Request
NobodysPerfect posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Hi everyone! I have been interested in vintage pens for a while, and finally bought my first one at the DC show yesterday. I got a Swan Le Merle Blanc pen that looked like it was in great condition, and the seller was really informative. I ran home and inked up the pen, excited about my new purchase. However, this morning, when I was journaling with it, it ran dry after a little more than a page (which made me think that only the feed got saturated, even though I had searched for tips on fully filling a vintage lever-filler before inking it yesterday). I tried filling it again, and the -
I recently purchased a pair of Sheaffer pens. They are Balance models which are lever filll. Both are white dot, one with a lifetime nib, the other with a feather nib. Is the Section a friction fit with the body on these models, or do they screw in like the Triumph nib versions of the pens? Pictures:
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I snagged a couple Balance pens which are lever fill. Both are white dot, one with Feather nib, the other with Lifetime nib. The quick question is whether the Section is a friction fit in the barrel, or a threaded assembly like some of the later pens which are piston fill (which have Triumph nib). Pictures of pens:
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I recently purchased a pair of Sheaffer pens. They are Balance models which are lever filll. Both are white dot, one with a lifetime nib, the other with a feather nib. Is the Section a friction fit with the body on these models, or do they screw in like the Triumph nib versions of the pens? Pictures:
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Hi, I bought a circa 1918 Waterman's Ideal 52 lever fill fountain pen two weeks ago. I had it filled with Waterman's ink at the store, took it home, and gleefully wrote with it until it ran dry today. I started to flush it out with distilled water and after about 20, or so, fills and flushes it just stopped filling when I released the lever to fill it one more time. No forewarning of impending failure, no breaking or snapping sound, nothing. Any idea what this could be, is a fix simple? I am somewhat handy, but if this is a repair beyond my means, can someone recommend a place that wo
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I've replaced the J-bar of one of my Esterbrook J pens with an 54mm aftermarker J-bar. After doing that I noticed that the lever is loose. While the pen otherwise worked, the rattle of the lever annoyed me enough to pull the pen apart again and try to fix it. Googling for the issue revealed some insight from Brian Anderson here. However I haven't found any information about how best to do this. So I thought I would try on my own and grabbed a couple of pliers and used that to flatten the metal on sides of the J-bar. However it didn't give easily, and I'm not sure if it helped at all. I
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Did Delarue Design The Original Pilot/namiki Lever?
Licensedtoquill posted a topic in Great Britain & Ireland - Europe
http://www.ebay.com/itm/322790449481?ul_noapp=true Anyone got an opinion on this lever? I haven't been able to find Stephen's book in the US but I had never seen this lever on an Onoto before and wonder why or how -or mainly if - DeLaRue were using it (or anything so complex, possibly to get around the Watermans box patent?) so early in their l/f production? In her un-illustrated book THE HISTORY OF THE ONOTO PEN, Eileen Twydle says that DeLaRue (for which company she sounds authoritative, using the term "we") started making l/fs in 1922 in response to market pressures: but their earliest -
Hi! I found these two pens at an antique shop. One is missing the nib and the other has the nib which says Esterbook 9556. Can you tell me what those numbers mean? Do any of you guys know the actual model for these? I'm guessing they are both Esties since they're so similar, but I could be completely wrong!
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I recently found a vintage BCHR lever filler at an estate sale and decided to try to restore it (i posted earlier about this). The lever seemed to be stuck halfway in, and I couldn't get it out. I eventually got it- but now I'm even more confused. Any advice would be extremely appreciated. I got out what I thought was the lever- and I don't think that's what it was after all. I'm guessing the lever is missing altogether and what I thought was the lever is something else all together. http://imgur.com/mXegDCc you can see above what I thought was a lever and turned out not to be as well
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I have a 5 1\4 inch lebeouf ,green and black, tan ends and cap band, nice big #8 nib, that is missing the clip, lever and ring top. I assume it is a ring top because it has a hold in the top of the cap ( though curiously,it is a little off center). The imprint is OK, a little beat up but readable. This pen deserves restoration. I thought I'd find the parts and then hunt up a restorer. I did find a repro clip at Avalon jewelry but don't know if it will fit nor can I find away to get ahold of them. Any ideas?
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Hi, i've a question for you all: I'm waiting for this couple of broken waterman bought via ebay: http://i66.tinypic.com/2ise4r5.jpg since the lever box of the brown one - a 515 - seems intact apart for the lever, i'm thinking to use the lever of the black one - a 501 with the strange-shaped nib i ever seen and a crack on the cap - as a replacement. Since i've not yet the pen in my hands, i'm just speculating and i've made this mockup to check if the "sane" lever will fit the 515: http://i65.tinypic.com/281tv8o.jpg What you think? is this a viable modification?
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My first repair, and the first topic I've started. Whoo!! I found this pen at an antique mall for 50 cents (along with a couple Welsharps that are still needing some fine tuning.. ahem.) Anyway, I'm rather pleased with myself. I got it all cleaned out, slightly polished, re-sacked, and adjusted the nib to the best of my ability. It has some dents on the tines that the previous owner must have put there in prying the nib out, but it still functions. I had to gently close the gap between the tines as well, as the flow was extreme. Now, this is a nice little writer. A slightly hard-starter afte
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I am currently in possession of a pretty E.F. lever filler, but I cannot find what the model is anywhere! All I come across is Permapoint. The coloring and pattern of the pen are really pretty, but hard to photograph with my cell phone! The nib says Faber and has a diamond with a star inside. (???) Pen writes very smooth and is a great little pen, but I have no history. Help!!! (please) http:// http://
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Found this grey striped Watermans lever fill fountain pen at a local flea mart for under $15. I am having a hard time figuring out the model of the pen. The pen says Watermans made in USA and has some Chinese/ Japanese characters below it. The clip also has the same characters and the clip shape is a similar shape to a Parker arrow one. The nib says 502 and other Chinese/ Japanese characters on it. (See Pictures) Any help on this pen or any information would be awesome. Thanks
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Advice On Buying A Sheaffer Lever Fill Or Vac Fill? Which One? How Much?
boybacon posted a topic in Sheaffer
Hello, Everyone! Some 35 years ago, my great grandfather gave me a fountain pen out of his "junk drawer". I took it home, found some ink somewhere and actually wrote/drew with it. Then, at some point (because my dad told me I should) attempted to clean it with nail polish remover. It softened the celluloid and made it "sticky". It ended up lost or in the garbage. Anyway, My GG was born in 1900, and the pen was a black and green striated celluloid with a gold nib (that much I can remember). Doing a bit of digging around the eBay, i've seen that Sheaffer pens come in that same sort of -
Hi, I recently bought an Esterbrook J that I'm expecting next week or so. I'm aware that the Esterbrooks don't use a converter and fill their sacs using something called a lever filler. I was wondering if someone could elaborate on how that works. Like, how would I use that mechanism to fill from a bottle? My apologies if the procedure is elementary. -Thanks, Suji P.S. Are there any types of fountain pen inks that should be avoided in order to keep the sac from being damaged??
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Ok, so I just bought this pen because I wanted to restore it, but i can't seem to find its specific name. On the clip "Ottawa" is engraved in a cursive print (sorry it doesn't show well in the photo). The band was missing when I bought the pen, which doesn't help. All that Ive been able to find out is that Ottawa was a sub company of Conklin. Do any of you know anything more about this pen?
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I have a friend asking me to repair her grandmothers Waterman 452, a hard rubber pen with a lovely sterling silver filigree overlay. I can do the sac and cleaning of the pen but my concern is how do I properly remove the section from the pen to replace the sac considering it is hard rubber. Any advice is be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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I have a pen that arrived in a pretty bad state. The sac was missing and the nipple was all gunked up and the feed was full of ink. So I wanted to see if the feed was good or not (I couldn't pull it out w/ the nib, seems tightly fit). What I tried was to put maybe 4 drops of ink into the barrel ala eyedropper style and then push the section back in. After turning it upright and trying to write with it, the ink literally poured out, leaving a giant drop whenever the nib touched the paper. I'm assuming this is because the barrel wasn't airtight. From how I understand it, eyedroppers are me
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I recently acquired a lever-fill Esterbrook desk set with the 8 ball receptacle. The sac (ossified) and j-bar (rusted and broken) were shot and I replaced both, using a 54mm j-bar purchased new. It all works OK, except the lever wants to sag open. Previously I was advised this was due to lack of tension in the j-bar, but this one is new and appears to fit flush against the barrel. Any other suggestions to make the closed lever stay flush with the barrel? Question 2: Is there a rule/guideline/suggestion on seating replacement j-bars? Do you slide them in until they stop with reasonabl
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Hi, I have a three pens (two still waiting for caps) that I would like to complete their restoration so I can eventually add them to the rotation. I'm looking for Esterbrook standard levers, C rings, and jewels (sm & lg). Can anyone help or suggest possible sources? Tks in advance..... Rene
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Here are some more of the pens I bought I have already repaired these ones but I would like to know the names and the approximate years they were made the parts bag said snorkle so I think that's the name of them some aren't as complicated as the others internally and don't have the little extendable tube in them or the seal at the front and the second bunch I assume are just called lever fill sheaffers ?