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Found 24 results

  1. velox brunneis vulpes

    Waterman 52 lever advice please

    Hello FPNers, I bought a Waterman 52 in amazing condition 5 months ago. But recently, the lever has not been staying in place in the closed position. It keeps popping up a little bit. Does anyone know what the problem might be and how to fix it? Many thanks! Best, John
  2. Further research and consulting have let me know this is a Frankenpen. The cap is German from Imperial Pen company. But they never made lever fillers. The barrel labeled Rikkers and Eton is most likely Dutch made by one of those companies. I have no details as to the association of Rikkers or Eton. Anyone that knows something about these companies would love to hear more. I am reposting this in the European forum. So Myk Daigle sent this to me as a practice repair pen. The plating on the clip was gone, covered in verdigris as was the lever. It used to have a metal band on the cap lip, but that is long gone. It looked like it had gone through a war and on careful examination we found writing on the cap and the barrel. The cap reads "Imperial" 1943. The barrel end reads "Rikker" Eton Fountain Pen. The nib reads: "Warranted" Ptes IRIDIUM INOXYDABLE. Inoxydable is French for Stainless. I can see that there are a couple of posts regarding The Imperial Pen and Pencil company here on the site, but I am not familiar with it at all. Any idea about the markings 1943 (year made?), and "Rikker" Eton Fountain Pen would be appreciated. It has a nice feed, a very corroded nib on the back side, but the tipping is still good and it flexes very nicely. (Nib most likely stainless steel plated with gold) Anyone familiar with this pen company, I would love to hear details. Repair consisted of a thorough cleaning, polishing with micromesh and some metal de-corroder to clean up the clip and lever. This pen will never look like new, but it is a lovely writer and I am glad to have it to play with. Comments please.
  3. Hi everyone! I have been interested in vintage pens for a while, and finally bought my first one at the DC show yesterday. I got a Swan Le Merle Blanc pen that looked like it was in great condition, and the seller was really informative. I ran home and inked up the pen, excited about my new purchase. However, this morning, when I was journaling with it, it ran dry after a little more than a page (which made me think that only the feed got saturated, even though I had searched for tips on fully filling a vintage lever-filler before inking it yesterday). I tried filling it again, and the same thing happened. So now I'm worried that either I'm doing something wrong or there's something wrong with the pen. When I filled the pen, I opened the lever, submerged it in the ink, closed the lever, and let it sit for 10 seconds. I didn't hear any sloshing liquid that would indicated a low fill, but now I think that just meant that it didn't fill at all. In terms of something being wrong with the pen, the seller (who had a large stock of well-restored pens) told me that this was an unused vintage pen with a new sack. Is there something else I can try to do differently? Does it sound like its definitely something wrong with the pen? If it is a problem with the pen, how and where would I go to try to get it fixed? I don't think I'm comfortable doing repair work on my own, but I also am not trying to spend a lot of money, since I was trying to stick to a budget and bought this pen thinking it was already restored and in good condition. I'm really disappointed that this happened, especially with my first vintage purchase. Also I've read a lot of different advice on what inks are or aren't safe for vintage pens. It sounds like my iroshizuku inks (which are my lowest maintenance inks) might not be the best choice. Would Aurora or Montblanc inks be safer? Are there any other tips people need to know when they get their first vintage pens? Thank you in advance for the advice. I really hope I can get this worked out soon, since I was so excited to finally get a vintage pen.
  4. I recently purchased a pair of Sheaffer pens. They are Balance models which are lever filll. Both are white dot, one with a lifetime nib, the other with a feather nib. Is the Section a friction fit with the body on these models, or do they screw in like the Triumph nib versions of the pens? Pictures:
  5. I snagged a couple Balance pens which are lever fill. Both are white dot, one with Feather nib, the other with Lifetime nib. The quick question is whether the Section is a friction fit in the barrel, or a threaded assembly like some of the later pens which are piston fill (which have Triumph nib). Pictures of pens:
  6. I recently purchased a pair of Sheaffer pens. They are Balance models which are lever filll. Both are white dot, one with a lifetime nib, the other with a feather nib. Is the Section a friction fit with the body on these models, or do they screw in like the Triumph nib versions of the pens? Pictures:
  7. fotojake

    Waterman's 52 Lever Fill Failure

    Hi, I bought a circa 1918 Waterman's Ideal 52 lever fill fountain pen two weeks ago. I had it filled with Waterman's ink at the store, took it home, and gleefully wrote with it until it ran dry today. I started to flush it out with distilled water and after about 20, or so, fills and flushes it just stopped filling when I released the lever to fill it one more time. No forewarning of impending failure, no breaking or snapping sound, nothing. Any idea what this could be, is a fix simple? I am somewhat handy, but if this is a repair beyond my means, can someone recommend a place that works on lever fill pens that is good? Thank you for any advice you can offer up. Jake
  8. I've replaced the J-bar of one of my Esterbrook J pens with an 54mm aftermarker J-bar. After doing that I noticed that the lever is loose. While the pen otherwise worked, the rattle of the lever annoyed me enough to pull the pen apart again and try to fix it. Googling for the issue revealed some insight from Brian Anderson here. However I haven't found any information about how best to do this. So I thought I would try on my own and grabbed a couple of pliers and used that to flatten the metal on sides of the J-bar. However it didn't give easily, and I'm not sure if it helped at all. I still can't insert the J-bar in a way in which the lever isn't loose. On one occasion I almost succeeded, but after trying to use the lever 2 or 3 times, it returned to being loose once again. I must admit, I have no idea how to do this properly. Could somebody help with some advice, please?
  9. http://www.ebay.com/itm/322790449481?ul_noapp=true Anyone got an opinion on this lever? I haven't been able to find Stephen's book in the US but I had never seen this lever on an Onoto before and wonder why or how -or mainly if - DeLaRue were using it (or anything so complex, possibly to get around the Watermans box patent?) so early in their l/f production? In her un-illustrated book THE HISTORY OF THE ONOTO PEN, Eileen Twydle says that DeLaRue (for which company she sounds authoritative, using the term "we") started making l/fs in 1922 in response to market pressures: but their earliest lever seems to have been a straight Sheaffer-type one (known in UK as the Swan/Valentine style) and not the lever in a box Watermans style they adopted later. But this ebay-appearance is neither?? I wonder if they patented this curious design or did this lever just come out of someone's parts stock in the mid 1920s? But I have also never seen a generic version of the 1920s Pilot lever without a P or an N in it? I suppose, in its symmetry, it looks a bit like the early 1920s lever which MontBlanc used for about ten minutes, - shown in the 'Fountain Pens - Their History and Art' book [http://www.ebay.com/itm/322561277801?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649].
  10. shannonkd

    Unknown Esterbrooks

    Hi! I found these two pens at an antique shop. One is missing the nib and the other has the nib which says Esterbook 9556. Can you tell me what those numbers mean? Do any of you guys know the actual model for these? I'm guessing they are both Esties since they're so similar, but I could be completely wrong!
  11. I recently found a vintage BCHR lever filler at an estate sale and decided to try to restore it (i posted earlier about this). The lever seemed to be stuck halfway in, and I couldn't get it out. I eventually got it- but now I'm even more confused. Any advice would be extremely appreciated. I got out what I thought was the lever- and I don't think that's what it was after all. I'm guessing the lever is missing altogether and what I thought was the lever is something else all together. http://imgur.com/mXegDCc you can see above what I thought was a lever and turned out not to be as well as the J-bar that I pulled out. Here are all of the parts: http://imgur.com/k623KQx And just because if anyone has any idea who may have made this pen, the nib and chasing pattern:http://imgur.com/hj7DpSphttp://imgur.com/uSrCgLLIf anyone has ideas about -who made the pen-what I need to do to restore it-what parts I need-where I can find them that would be much appreciated!
  12. heybuddy

    Parts For Lebeouf

    I have a 5 1\4 inch lebeouf ,green and black, tan ends and cap band, nice big #8 nib, that is missing the clip, lever and ring top. I assume it is a ring top because it has a hold in the top of the cap ( though curiously,it is a little off center). The imprint is OK, a little beat up but readable. This pen deserves restoration. I thought I'd find the parts and then hunt up a restorer. I did find a repro clip at Avalon jewelry but don't know if it will fit nor can I find away to get ahold of them. Any ideas?
  13. Hi, i've a question for you all: I'm waiting for this couple of broken waterman bought via ebay: http://i66.tinypic.com/2ise4r5.jpg since the lever box of the brown one - a 515 - seems intact apart for the lever, i'm thinking to use the lever of the black one - a 501 with the strange-shaped nib i ever seen and a crack on the cap - as a replacement. Since i've not yet the pen in my hands, i'm just speculating and i've made this mockup to check if the "sane" lever will fit the 515: http://i65.tinypic.com/281tv8o.jpg What you think? is this a viable modification?
  14. My first repair, and the first topic I've started. Whoo!! I found this pen at an antique mall for 50 cents (along with a couple Welsharps that are still needing some fine tuning.. ahem.) Anyway, I'm rather pleased with myself. I got it all cleaned out, slightly polished, re-sacked, and adjusted the nib to the best of my ability. It has some dents on the tines that the previous owner must have put there in prying the nib out, but it still functions. I had to gently close the gap between the tines as well, as the flow was extreme. Now, this is a nice little writer. A slightly hard-starter after letting sit overnight while I sleep, but once it gets going again, it doesn't quit. Using the normal side of the nib yields a bold line I'm not fond of, but turning the pen upside down and using the back gives a line with some interesting variation! So while this pen isn't perfect cosmetically, I've grown rather fond of it. The plastic is a dark navy blue, not black as it might appear in the photos. The ink used is Poky black, a rather cheap and feathery ink, but this was the initial post-adjustment test where I didn't possibly want to waste my better inks if the nib started super-flowing again. To note, I'm not entirely sure what model this is.. (Does anyone really know with Wearevers?) I call it a "Taperite Citation" type due to the shape of the section and size of the nib, though it certainly isn't as nice as other copies of the Waterman design. Ah well, I enjoy it whatever model it is. Edit: It's a Supreme. Still enjoying it! And here you can kind of see the denting in the tines.
  15. I am currently in possession of a pretty E.F. lever filler, but I cannot find what the model is anywhere! All I come across is Permapoint. The coloring and pattern of the pen are really pretty, but hard to photograph with my cell phone! The nib says Faber and has a diamond with a star inside. (???) Pen writes very smooth and is a great little pen, but I have no history. Help!!! (please) http:// http://
  16. fitz123

    Vintage Waterman Pen

    Found this grey striped Watermans lever fill fountain pen at a local flea mart for under $15. I am having a hard time figuring out the model of the pen. The pen says Watermans made in USA and has some Chinese/ Japanese characters below it. The clip also has the same characters and the clip shape is a similar shape to a Parker arrow one. The nib says 502 and other Chinese/ Japanese characters on it. (See Pictures) Any help on this pen or any information would be awesome. Thanks
  17. Hello, Everyone! Some 35 years ago, my great grandfather gave me a fountain pen out of his "junk drawer". I took it home, found some ink somewhere and actually wrote/drew with it. Then, at some point (because my dad told me I should) attempted to clean it with nail polish remover. It softened the celluloid and made it "sticky". It ended up lost or in the garbage. Anyway, My GG was born in 1900, and the pen was a black and green striated celluloid with a gold nib (that much I can remember). Doing a bit of digging around the eBay, i've seen that Sheaffer pens come in that same sort of color, and I have recently gotten the bug to buy one. Right now I have almost all modern fountain pens (Edison, Bexley and Conklin) and a few older "mistakes" that need fixiing/ink sacs (Epenco lever filler, Webster button fill and 4 Arnold lever fillers that all work great, so I guess I can't call them mistakes!). Basically, my experience tends toward modern cartridge & cartridge converter pens. I would like to purchase a Sheaffer pen, because that green and black striped pattern reminds me of the one I destroyed/lost/threw out/whatever. I see lots and lots and lots of Shaeffer pens out there, but I have NO idea of what to look for. Is an older Vac Fill that needs repair better than an older Lever fill that needs repair? How much should I budget? Should I buy a working pen that's been restored? Sooooo many questions. Not the least of which is.....How much should I budget for a working pen? $100.00? More? Less? Any and all advice would be appreciated. Even if you could point me towards a reputable dealer or two. I'd much rather buy from a person/store than eBay, to be honest. --Eric
  18. Hi, I recently bought an Esterbrook J that I'm expecting next week or so. I'm aware that the Esterbrooks don't use a converter and fill their sacs using something called a lever filler. I was wondering if someone could elaborate on how that works. Like, how would I use that mechanism to fill from a bottle? My apologies if the procedure is elementary. -Thanks, Suji P.S. Are there any types of fountain pen inks that should be avoided in order to keep the sac from being damaged??
  19. Ok, so I just bought this pen because I wanted to restore it, but i can't seem to find its specific name. On the clip "Ottawa" is engraved in a cursive print (sorry it doesn't show well in the photo). The band was missing when I bought the pen, which doesn't help. All that Ive been able to find out is that Ottawa was a sub company of Conklin. Do any of you know anything more about this pen?
  20. I have a friend asking me to repair her grandmothers Waterman 452, a hard rubber pen with a lovely sterling silver filigree overlay. I can do the sac and cleaning of the pen but my concern is how do I properly remove the section from the pen to replace the sac considering it is hard rubber. Any advice is be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  21. I have a pen that arrived in a pretty bad state. The sac was missing and the nipple was all gunked up and the feed was full of ink. So I wanted to see if the feed was good or not (I couldn't pull it out w/ the nib, seems tightly fit). What I tried was to put maybe 4 drops of ink into the barrel ala eyedropper style and then push the section back in. After turning it upright and trying to write with it, the ink literally poured out, leaving a giant drop whenever the nib touched the paper. I'm assuming this is because the barrel wasn't airtight. From how I understand it, eyedroppers are meant to have a slight vacuum (aka sealed barrel) which I assume helps prevent the ink gushing out, similar to how punching a hole in the bottom of a beer can, then opening the top allows the liquid to flow. So assuming this, is it ok to assume that the fact that ink flowed through means the feed on this is fine and that if I re-sac it (and thus create a seal / vacuum for the ink) , it -should- work properly? I mean, I know you can't give me a guarantee, but any advice from someone with actual experience in pen repairs would be welcome. ::EDIT:: Also, the pen is a Waterman Stalwart. If anyone knows how to remove the nib and feed, I'd be much obliged. I tried seeing if it was friction fit, but if it is, it's in too tight for me to safely remove it.
  22. I recently acquired a lever-fill Esterbrook desk set with the 8 ball receptacle. The sac (ossified) and j-bar (rusted and broken) were shot and I replaced both, using a 54mm j-bar purchased new. It all works OK, except the lever wants to sag open. Previously I was advised this was due to lack of tension in the j-bar, but this one is new and appears to fit flush against the barrel. Any other suggestions to make the closed lever stay flush with the barrel? Question 2: Is there a rule/guideline/suggestion on seating replacement j-bars? Do you slide them in until they stop with reasonable force, far enough to clear the section nipple plus "a bit more"? Thanks! Steve
  23. Hi, I have a three pens (two still waiting for caps) that I would like to complete their restoration so I can eventually add them to the rotation. I'm looking for Esterbrook standard levers, C rings, and jewels (sm & lg). Can anyone help or suggest possible sources? Tks in advance..... Rene
  24. Shane b

    Sheaffer Identifcation

    Here are some more of the pens I bought I have already repaired these ones but I would like to know the names and the approximate years they were made the parts bag said snorkle so I think that's the name of them some aren't as complicated as the others internally and don't have the little extendable tube in them or the seal at the front and the second bunch I assume are just called lever fill sheaffers ?

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