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  1. So today I was thinking it as a shame that the new Jinhao 85s are all glued together, because the feed in mine is cockeyed. The nib pulls out and pushes in the front for easy swapping, but I haven't been able to find a way to get ahold of the feed well enough to rotate it. This afternoon I thought I'd take another look. I went to unscrew the barrel and instead... the hood unscrewed! After watching ChrisRapp's video I wasn't planning to try and disassemble the hood; I hadn't given it a hot-water bath or anything. It just fell off in my hand! The coupler is *not* the sa
  2. I've disassembled a couple of Parker 51s for cleaning and tuning. On one of these pens, the sac came off even though I didn't really want to take it off. I assume when I heated it up in order to take off the hood, it must've also destroyed whatever was holding this sac in place. The sac itself is somewhat discolored but it doesn't seem torn or damaged in any way. Is it okay to reuse this old sac by shellacing it back to the connector when I reassemble the pen? Or is this something that I shouldn't do?
  3. Hi All Hope you are staying safe with coid19 I inked up my pen and now want to clean and change the ink The instructiosn dont explain how i (1) remove nib (2) pulloff the whole nib section to clean the barrel. There are no videos on youtube. Some comments here talk about old and new Stipulas so I am not sure whether to just pull out the nib. Help appreciated/gary
  4. I have had this ASC Bologna Extra for about a year, and was always curious about how to disassemble it because one day I will have to re-sac it. Today, with a thought derived from another thread on FPN, I was feeling brave and did it. First of all, I would like to thank FPN member sannidh and Youtuber sbrebrown for their answer and video to help me with this disassembly. sannidh's original post is here (a different topic but indirectly related to this because of the same filling mechanism): https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/351582-a-review-of-the-wahl-eversharp-decoband-in-rosew
  5. Hi y'all! I have a Montblanc 310 that has quite a gap between the nib and the feed and am not sure of what to do, as I'm not sure whether the gap is the result of the nib being bent upwards or the feed being bent downwards. There's a video showing this pen's tear-down here: https://youtu.be/H57t0ZLfs1Y?t=42 but no the clear piece that joins the section to the barrel on mine just won't budge. Any ideas? I would like to take it apart, so I can either fix the nib properly or apply hot air or water to the feed to bend it upward to have it touch the nib's underside. The pen writes well, bu
  6. Hello everyone. Trying to open the rear (piston) end of a Geha (model 790, I think). Saw Bo-bo's suggestion if using a paper clip in the hole below the piston threads, and am unable to figure out how to use the paper clip to open it. The paper clip only goes in a couple of mm. I've bent the ends of a couple of paper clips and can't figure it out. Thank you in advance. Nick[ attachment=484016:Geha piston detail.jpg]
  7. hari317

    M101 N Piston Assembly.

    Was getting stiff after nearly 9 years since purchased new. Homemade 7.8mm spanner. LH threads. Another way to do is from nib unit end. Easy access and no tools needed. But I prefer to remove the filler on pens its possible on and grease the seal walls. Ymmv. Hope the pics help someone else attempting DIY.
  8. i am having a bit of a trouble dissasembling the whole feed.. nib... section can't find any place that i could open it so i can clean the inside if anyone can please help me that would be helpful
  9. PJohnP

    Fascinating Tool...

    I saw a rather interesting tool on eBay for disassembling Pelikans : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-for-disassembling-Pelikan-120-140-M400-M200/163938321950?hash=item262b7c461e:g:tecAAOSw-s5dx8Id I cannot comment whether this is the appropriate tool to use compared with some of the knockout block assemblies that we've seen over the years, but I was fascinated with the video. It appears from the video that the barrel screws into the tool, so as to retain it when the piston assembly is being removed. Part of the tool appears to be wood, part steel. Pretty obviously, this is only valid for
  10. Wahl aficionados, I recently got a Wahl Gold Filled Pen, frequently referred to as a "Coronet" (67S97), which is in the process of restoral. Step one is always inventory, followed by disassembly. I was actually surprised to learn that I was not the first person in the pen. The dried out sac was clearly labelled Esterbrook. I managed to pull the splined assembly out of the body without cracking the ink view portion (yeah! take the minor wins). Now I want to remove the section out of the splined ink view portion. I have pictures below. One of them is a zoom of the nib, section and splin
  11. sockmonkey

    Vac Mini: Where Does This O-Ring Go?

    Hi, I took my Vac Mini apart for a thorough cleaning today and found an o-ring when emptying the tank of my cleaner. I have no idea where it goes, but I bet someone here does. Any idea based on the attached photo? Thanks!
  12. While I had this apart, I thought I would take a picture to benefit others. The pen is a solid 14kt Command Performance. It had a very dented body. To gain access to the inside, to fix the dents, the pen had to be broken entirely apart to burnish the dents out. When burnishing the dents, it is better to get most the dent out and stop, than over do it and create a surface (outward) bump. The metal bodied Skylines have a plastic piece which presses and glues into the metal body, it is the threaded part in the picture which is next to the gold shell; I refer to it as the "Plug". This
  13. I recently purchased a pair of Sheaffer pens. They are Balance models which are lever filll. Both are white dot, one with a lifetime nib, the other with a feather nib. Is the Section a friction fit with the body on these models, or do they screw in like the Triumph nib versions of the pens? Pictures:
  14. I snagged a couple Balance pens which are lever fill. Both are white dot, one with Feather nib, the other with Lifetime nib. The quick question is whether the Section is a friction fit in the barrel, or a threaded assembly like some of the later pens which are piston fill (which have Triumph nib). Pictures of pens:
  15. I recently purchased a pair of Sheaffer pens. They are Balance models which are lever filll. Both are white dot, one with a lifetime nib, the other with a feather nib. Is the Section a friction fit with the body on these models, or do they screw in like the Triumph nib versions of the pens? Pictures:
  16. I have recently inherited a couple of pens from my father. I'm mainly a Parker freak, and one of them was a battered P75 I've repaired and put back on the road. The other takes me out of my comfort zone: a Conway 87 - see photos below. It's in quite a bad way and needs a good deal of TLC. It is inscribed 14CTGOLD on the nib, and 'Conway 87 made in England' on the barrel. I've found a website that sys these pens were made (or started being made) in 1960. The sac has totally perished. It looks to me as if the squeeze filler is not a removable converter, but is fixed into the pen. Is this corre
  17. Dear all, I have a question about fully disassembling a Homo Sapiens pens. I am specifically interested in removing the packing unit of their power filler mechanism. I have not found one that has attempted it yet, and there seems to be no resource for any potential complications online. The pen is made so that the only thing you can take off is the nib unit. Even the blind cap has no notches to help you unthread it, should you need to. They like their pens sealed. Nevertheless, this can be problematic and challenging for us fountain pen folks, and we love a challenge. So I have some qu
  18. Hi, I just got a Parker 75 with a Medium nib, possibly 1970's, as the nib's marked with a letter and the tassies are dished, but it's incredibly dry (see sample). I already left the nib and the section soaking all night (not much came out), and then a few hours this morning, in warm water with a drop of dishwashing soap. There was some serious muck under the nib (at the tip of the feed), which I used an exacto knife to remove - you can see some of it in the photos, and there's also some in the slots where the nib slides into the feed. After the two soaks, it's somewhat better, but writing
  19. My older Nakaya & Platinum pens have friction-fit nibs and feeds that make it very easy to clean the pens, and to exchange nibs between pens. This year I picked up a new Nakaya Piccolo and a Platinum 3776 "Shungyo". Both of the nibs are very securely fitted, and seem difficult to remove. Can anyone advise, please, if it's possible to remove the newer nib and feed assemblies without using excessive force? Any help or advice will be appreciated
  20. So I have a bit of an issue with a new style Omas Paragon that Ive had for a while. The pen ran great when I bought it secondhand. For quite a while actually. The section threads have a bit of friction before the facets are aligned when capped though. This is my only resin section Omas so the feel was new to me. One day I ran the cap about half a facet passed tight with the facets lined up. I was distracted and slightly over tightened the cap a hair. Since then, Ive had an ink leak at the silver trim where the section meets the body (green arrow). Im in the process of taking the pen
  21. brandonweng0426

    Pelikans' Disassembly

    I currently own a lovely Souverän M800 blue stripe, as a newcomer to Pelikans, I'm wondering if all Pelikans(both modern and vintage) can be fully taken apart by using the same method as the M800(TWSBI wrench for the piston, nib/feed can be unscrewed, and be knocked out from the collar)? (Discussing Souverän MXXX and their ancestors such as 400NN) I've read about rare fiction fit nib units, but that doesn't seems like a huge difference? My purpose of this question is that I feel more confident in spending money getting a pen that I know for sure that I can clean the pen thoroughly, apply g
  22. soniknitr

    Twsbi Diamond 580 Review

    With the latest Twsbi Eco making news, I decided to give my old 580 another shot just to make sure whether I should go for another. Find one is good enough for me (personal opinion). Here is also a link to my blog: TWSBI Diamond 580 Review Here goes my review of the 580: My sole motivation behind getting a TWSBI was to disassemble the pen and have all the fun, which I missed. And I got a clear demonstrator, packaged with a nice-looking wrench. THE TWSBI STORY TWSBI (called Twiz-Bee) refers to San Wen Tong, i.e when TWS is spelled backwards and it means ‘Hall of Three Cultures’ accord
  23. chossenger

    Unidentifiable "lamy" Converter

    Heya peeps So my mother recently uncovered her Lamy Safari from when she was much my age (so it's ~20 years old, I'm guessing), and decided to give it to me, knowing that I was into fountain pens. It's a little the worse for wear (or lack of, rather), as she didn't clean it out before it got shelved, containing a goodly quantity of blue sediment. I eventually got the pen apart and (mostly) cleaned up, but the converter is giving a little more resistance. http://i.imgur.com/tNBBwXZ.jpg It's marked as being a Lamy converter, but it's neither a Z24 nor a Z26. The twiddly plastic grip sectio
  24. ek-hornbeck

    Disassembling A Sailor Trident

    I gave my wife, a lefty, a Sailor Trident for a gift, years ago. She loves it. She's a hook writer, and the Trident's ability to work at a high angle is perfect for her. Except that now she has seen the nano-pigment inks I've been using and wants to use them, for the permanence and because they are so saturated in color. I loaded her Trident up with Montblanc Permanent Blue, which was great for 2-3 weeks, then clogged up in her pen. So I'm going to try De Atramentis Dokument ink -- but I am also now motivated to find a way to take a Trident apart for deep & thorough cleaning. By "deep an
  25. Hello there, I got a little problem with a Pelikan M400 (1980s model). The piston seal has detached from the piston rod and is not sticking in the barrel. Thus, I have to disassemble the M400. Question now: How can I disassemble the piston unit from the barrel? Is that friction fit with the M400 just as it is with the vintage 400? Greetings and Thanx





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