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  1. Hi y'all! I have a Montblanc 310 that has quite a gap between the nib and the feed and am not sure of what to do, as I'm not sure whether the gap is the result of the nib being bent upwards or the feed being bent downwards. There's a video showing this pen's tear-down here: https://youtu.be/H57t0ZLfs1Y?t=42 but no the clear piece that joins the section to the barrel on mine just won't budge. Any ideas? I would like to take it apart, so I can either fix the nib properly or apply hot air or water to the feed to bend it upward to have it touch the nib's underside. The pen writes well, but has issues starting after not using it for a day because the ink that fills that gap evaporates. Thanks!!! alex
  2. From the album: Translated third-party content

    Source: Official HongDian store on Taobao
  3. I'm having trouble identifying exactly which model this Montblanc Monte Rosa is. Based on searches I think it's an 042 or 412 with a 14K gold nib, but what's throwing me off is that the other images I've seen have the star on the cap and sometimes the clip as well. Pictures are included, but here are the highlights: Silver metal screw-on cap with MONTBLANC in all caps and Monte Rosa in script at the base Gold nib stamped tip to collar: MONT / BLANC / 14C / MONTBLANC / 585 Diamond ink windows MADE IN GERMANY stamped above the ink window area Piston filler The tines are bent and the feed looks like something chewed on it. The nib also seems too loose, and I'm wondering if the unit isn't inserted as far as it ought to be. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the piston. It seems like I ought to be able to remove the nib, but neither pulling nor turning seems to work (it's also super gunked-up and I'm still soaking it in water to try to get it clean. Ink and water will come sort of down the feed but the pen will not write. I'm chalking this up to the super dirty feed and I might try to floss between the nib and feed. Sometimes when filling with water or ink some of it bubbles through and comes out of the screw/piston area, so I think that a seal might be loose somewhere. That, or I need to fill and empty extremely slowly. Thanks for whatever insight you're able to provide. ETA: I managed to wiggle the nib out and it looks like the stamp is 342. So I guess the pen model is 342G? There's no G on the stamp but it's a gold nib, so it only makes sense. Still, it doesn't match any of the images I've found online and now I have to figure out how to get the feed out.
  4. So today I was thinking it as a shame that the new Jinhao 85s are all glued together, because the feed in mine is cockeyed. The nib pulls out and pushes in the front for easy swapping, but I haven't been able to find a way to get ahold of the feed well enough to rotate it. This afternoon I thought I'd take another look. I went to unscrew the barrel and instead... the hood unscrewed! After watching ChrisRapp's video I wasn't planning to try and disassemble the hood; I hadn't given it a hot-water bath or anything. It just fell off in my hand! The coupler is *not* the same as the one from the Jinhao 51A. The threading is different, so the hoods can't just be swapped between them. I thought that, since I'd come this far, I might as well go ahead and see if I could get the feed drum out of the hood. If it was indeed the same as that found in the 51A, I have plenty of spares, so I don't mind destroying it to get it out. It was stuck in there pretty good, although I'm not sure with what. There doesn't seem to be a lot of glue residue inside. I mashed it pretty good getting it out. It does seem to be the same as the 51A assembly, except the collar is glued on (I haven't been able to get it to move, even twisting with two pairs of pliers) and the O-ring is missing. Here it is with a 51A assembly exploded for comparison. So, curiosity assuaged, I guess. UPDATE: Interestingly, the coupler on a 911 is thread compatible with the 85, although the reverse is not true (i.e., the 911 section will go on the 85 barrel, but the 911 barrel will not go on the 85 coupler - and for that matter, neither will the 911 hood). This gives a strange sort of gold/steel effect. The longer 911 section still fits in the 85 cap just fine, though, so I guess this is a way to save my 85 from the "dead pen drawer." UPDATE #2: After some further inspection under the loupe, it turns out that the collector drums aren't as similar as I first thought. The orienting fins are thicker on the 51A drum, so you have to shave them down in order to get it to fit into the 85 hood. In addition, the glued-on collar seems to be made of thinner plastic, giving it a slightly thinner overall diameter. The 51A drum wouldn't go in with the collar on *at all.* The reason for this seems to be that there's a counterpart collar, made of metal, integrated into the hood of the 85, and the 51A collar is too thick to mate with it. Oh well...
  5. I've disassembled a couple of Parker 51s for cleaning and tuning. On one of these pens, the sac came off even though I didn't really want to take it off. I assume when I heated it up in order to take off the hood, it must've also destroyed whatever was holding this sac in place. The sac itself is somewhat discolored but it doesn't seem torn or damaged in any way. Is it okay to reuse this old sac by shellacing it back to the connector when I reassemble the pen? Or is this something that I shouldn't do?
  6. Hi All Hope you are staying safe with coid19 I inked up my pen and now want to clean and change the ink The instructiosn dont explain how i (1) remove nib (2) pulloff the whole nib section to clean the barrel. There are no videos on youtube. Some comments here talk about old and new Stipulas so I am not sure whether to just pull out the nib. Help appreciated/gary
  7. I have had this ASC Bologna Extra for about a year, and was always curious about how to disassemble it because one day I will have to re-sac it. Today, with a thought derived from another thread on FPN, I was feeling brave and did it. First of all, I would like to thank FPN member sannidh and Youtuber sbrebrown for their answer and video to help me with this disassembly. sannidh's original post is here (a different topic but indirectly related to this because of the same filling mechanism): https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/351582-a-review-of-the-wahl-eversharp-decoband-in-rosewood/page-1 sbrebrown's video relevant to disassembly of this model is: Please see minute 4:44. Please see below photos: You can unscrew the nib/feed unit out of the section. You can unscrew the section out of the barrel. Observations: 1. There was no shellac or other heat sensitive adhesive on plastic nib collar threads so unscrewing was rather easy, both the nib unit and the section. 2. The nipple size seems to be for size 22 sac (or one size bigger or smaller), but the sac seems thinner in diameter. I could be wrong but it looks at least in my case, the sac size might be chosen to accommodate the narrow diameter of the brass casing. Otherwise the pen had to be made even girthier, which may not be possible depending on the diameter of their celluloid rods available. Or it's just fitted off centre in this case that it appears to be a smaller sac for the nipple. But my guess is the former. I didn't re-sac the pen, as it's still relatively new. When I do, I will first have to see if the sac with the right nipple size fits the brass casing. If not, a smaller size sac will have to do, even though it might be a tighter than ideal fit on the nipple. 3. The section is rather thin (partially inner-lined with brass). Be careful not to over-turn the nib unit when you screw it back on, to avoid any chance of cracking the section. Hope this satisfies your curiosity as it did for mine, and might be helpful to you one day. Regards, como
  8. Hello everyone. Trying to open the rear (piston) end of a Geha (model 790, I think). Saw Bo-bo's suggestion if using a paper clip in the hole below the piston threads, and am unable to figure out how to use the paper clip to open it. The paper clip only goes in a couple of mm. I've bent the ends of a couple of paper clips and can't figure it out. Thank you in advance. Nick[ attachment=484016:Geha piston detail.jpg]
  9. hari317

    M101 N Piston Assembly.

    Was getting stiff after nearly 9 years since purchased new. Homemade 7.8mm spanner. LH threads. Another way to do is from nib unit end. Easy access and no tools needed. But I prefer to remove the filler on pens its possible on and grease the seal walls. Ymmv. Hope the pics help someone else attempting DIY.
  10. i am having a bit of a trouble dissasembling the whole feed.. nib... section can't find any place that i could open it so i can clean the inside if anyone can please help me that would be helpful
  11. PJohnP

    Fascinating Tool...

    I saw a rather interesting tool on eBay for disassembling Pelikans : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tool-for-disassembling-Pelikan-120-140-M400-M200/163938321950?hash=item262b7c461e:g:tecAAOSw-s5dx8Id I cannot comment whether this is the appropriate tool to use compared with some of the knockout block assemblies that we've seen over the years, but I was fascinated with the video. It appears from the video that the barrel screws into the tool, so as to retain it when the piston assembly is being removed. Part of the tool appears to be wood, part steel. Pretty obviously, this is only valid for certain models of Pelikan (and is so noted within the ad, "Tool for disassembling Pelikan 120, 140, M400, M200"), but it did seem to be a solution that could allow for a modest amount of force instead of a solid whack to the piston assembly. US$65 (including shipping) is a bit steep for me to entertain this just to play with it, not forgetting that I do not pretend to be a pen engineer/repairer ! Still... John P.
  12. Wahl aficionados, I recently got a Wahl Gold Filled Pen, frequently referred to as a "Coronet" (67S97), which is in the process of restoral. Step one is always inventory, followed by disassembly. I was actually surprised to learn that I was not the first person in the pen. The dried out sac was clearly labelled Esterbrook. I managed to pull the splined assembly out of the body without cracking the ink view portion (yeah! take the minor wins). Now I want to remove the section out of the splined ink view portion. I have pictures below. One of them is a zoom of the nib, section and splined ink view part. In the zoomed picture, There is an arrow drawn where I believe the joint for separating is located. Could someone confirm it for me? I am unsure if it is a press fit, or a screw-in fit. If someone know the answers to these two questions, it would be a great help. There have been so many of these all metal Coronet pens ruined during repair, that I don't want mine to join the scrap pile with it's brothers.
  13. sockmonkey

    Vac Mini: Where Does This O-Ring Go?

    Hi, I took my Vac Mini apart for a thorough cleaning today and found an o-ring when emptying the tank of my cleaner. I have no idea where it goes, but I bet someone here does. Any idea based on the attached photo? Thanks!
  14. While I had this apart, I thought I would take a picture to benefit others. The pen is a solid 14kt Command Performance. It had a very dented body. To gain access to the inside, to fix the dents, the pen had to be broken entirely apart to burnish the dents out. When burnishing the dents, it is better to get most the dent out and stop, than over do it and create a surface (outward) bump. The metal bodied Skylines have a plastic piece which presses and glues into the metal body, it is the threaded part in the picture which is next to the gold shell; I refer to it as the "Plug". This layout is true of both the Command Performance and the Gold Award. The body shell does not have plastic/hard rubber/celluloid under it (part of the reason why they dent). The cap Does have an inner liner. It has the usual fault that the cap liner has shrunk, and the shell is no longer bonded to it. This will be addressed in the restoration. To replace the sac the Plug must also be removed. The Sac is NOT glued to the section on this model, it actually glues to the Plug. The section needs to have a good seal where it presses into the Plug, otherwise, you can get leakage. This is an earlier model Command performance, you can tell by the fact the "tail" of the body is more pointed than later produced Command Performance pens. The same is true on Gold Award (gold filled) pens as well. A little background on this pen, it was an eBay find. The seller originally listed it as a "gold plated coronet" in his first (brief) listing. After a day he re-listed it as a gold plated pen. I made an offer on the pen, which took the dents into consideration (and the risk of destroying the pen getting it apart to fix the dents. He accepted the offer, he probably wondered why his dented "gold plated pen" got such a large offer, but he accepted the offer within 3 minutes. Some kind of insidious purple ink had been used in the pen, and the sac was so tender you could pull it apart with your fingers. The sac had the strength and consistency of properly cooked pasta. Tomorrow it hits the ultrasonic cleaner, and then a bit more burnishing will be done on the dents. A new Skyline sac will be installed, and the nib may take a few tweaks to get it perfect. It always feels good to save a pen from being sold for parts, or gold scrap.
  15. I recently purchased a pair of Sheaffer pens. They are Balance models which are lever filll. Both are white dot, one with a lifetime nib, the other with a feather nib. Is the Section a friction fit with the body on these models, or do they screw in like the Triumph nib versions of the pens? Pictures:
  16. I snagged a couple Balance pens which are lever fill. Both are white dot, one with Feather nib, the other with Lifetime nib. The quick question is whether the Section is a friction fit in the barrel, or a threaded assembly like some of the later pens which are piston fill (which have Triumph nib). Pictures of pens:
  17. I recently purchased a pair of Sheaffer pens. They are Balance models which are lever filll. Both are white dot, one with a lifetime nib, the other with a feather nib. Is the Section a friction fit with the body on these models, or do they screw in like the Triumph nib versions of the pens? Pictures:
  18. I have recently inherited a couple of pens from my father. I'm mainly a Parker freak, and one of them was a battered P75 I've repaired and put back on the road. The other takes me out of my comfort zone: a Conway 87 - see photos below. It's in quite a bad way and needs a good deal of TLC. It is inscribed 14CTGOLD on the nib, and 'Conway 87 made in England' on the barrel. I've found a website that sys these pens were made (or started being made) in 1960. The sac has totally perished. It looks to me as if the squeeze filler is not a removable converter, but is fixed into the pen. Is this correct? I don't want to apply too much force. What is the best way to disassemble the pen? I've recently successfully replaced a sac on an old Parker Duofold, with the help of advice from people in the FPN and a couple of Youtube videos, but there seems to be nothing equivalent for Conway Stewarts. Is it the black ring that unscrews, with the help of a hair drier and section pliers? I imagine the nib must be removed outwards, but is it a straight pull or does it unscrew? All help and advice gratefully received. It would be really nice to put this veteran back into working order. Peter
  19. Dear all, I have a question about fully disassembling a Homo Sapiens pens. I am specifically interested in removing the packing unit of their power filler mechanism. I have not found one that has attempted it yet, and there seems to be no resource for any potential complications online. The pen is made so that the only thing you can take off is the nib unit. Even the blind cap has no notches to help you unthread it, should you need to. They like their pens sealed. Nevertheless, this can be problematic and challenging for us fountain pen folks, and we love a challenge. So I have some questions. Notice that my main concern really is with the material as I have not worked with their resins before and don't want to badly affect this pen that I'm working on. Like its glass transition temperature or its reaction to any chemicals. Has a full disassembly ever been attempted? This mainly refers to removing the rear packing unit. If so, what is the best method for removing it. I suspect the threads in the barrel might be glued. If so, what is the best method for weakening the glue without affecting the barrel resin? and what does Visconti use to glue it in the first place? (for when I put it back). My second question is regarding cleaning staining ink off the inside of a clear barrel. If there is anything you suggest I totally avoid on this resin please let me know now. any ideas welcome. Thank you for passing by. I'm looking forward to hearing any input on this. Best regards KR
  20. Hi, I just got a Parker 75 with a Medium nib, possibly 1970's, as the nib's marked with a letter and the tassies are dished, but it's incredibly dry (see sample). I already left the nib and the section soaking all night (not much came out), and then a few hours this morning, in warm water with a drop of dishwashing soap. There was some serious muck under the nib (at the tip of the feed), which I used an exacto knife to remove - you can see some of it in the photos, and there's also some in the slots where the nib slides into the feed. After the two soaks, it's somewhat better, but writing with this pen is still anything but pleasant. I suspect there's more dried ink between the nib and the feed, but I can't get to it unless I take the assembly apart. I've disassembled this kind of nib before. It took a bit of coaxing, but it was doable. This one, however, isn't budging one bit and, of course, I don't want to break anything, so I'm curbing my super-powers for now. I still have to try 10% ammonia, but that'll have to wait until I'm back home tonight, as I don't want to do that for more than an hour at a time (unless some learned expert considers that it's OK to leave it for longer periods - and how long, btw). Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on how to remove the nib from the feed? Thanks! Alex
  21. My older Nakaya & Platinum pens have friction-fit nibs and feeds that make it very easy to clean the pens, and to exchange nibs between pens. This year I picked up a new Nakaya Piccolo and a Platinum 3776 "Shungyo". Both of the nibs are very securely fitted, and seem difficult to remove. Can anyone advise, please, if it's possible to remove the newer nib and feed assemblies without using excessive force? Any help or advice will be appreciated
  22. So I have a bit of an issue with a new style Omas Paragon that Ive had for a while. The pen ran great when I bought it secondhand. For quite a while actually. The section threads have a bit of friction before the facets are aligned when capped though. This is my only resin section Omas so the feel was new to me. One day I ran the cap about half a facet passed tight with the facets lined up. I was distracted and slightly over tightened the cap a hair. Since then, Ive had an ink leak at the silver trim where the section meets the body (green arrow). Im in the process of taking the pen a part and have the piston out along with the nib and feed (disassembled passed both red arrows). The feed/nib collar are still in the section. Is there a joint where the round section meets the faceted body at the green arrow? Ive taken a part several metal section Paragons and am familiar with the joint from section to body on those pens. Is the Milord made in the same way? I dont see a clear tube reservoir as I did on the new Paragon. The pen body looks to be the reservoir on the Milord and the section is made of the same material as the body. The joint location is a little mysterious to me in this case. I dont want to attempt to find a joint where one does not exist if you catch my drift!! I did find that some ink had made it passed the piston filling assembly on the other end though despite not seeing any ink seeping here when assembled. Its a great writer so I would love to get it back up and running again. Thanks for your help FPN! Cheers!
  23. brandonweng0426

    Pelikans' Disassembly

    I currently own a lovely Souverän M800 blue stripe, as a newcomer to Pelikans, I'm wondering if all Pelikans(both modern and vintage) can be fully taken apart by using the same method as the M800(TWSBI wrench for the piston, nib/feed can be unscrewed, and be knocked out from the collar)? (Discussing Souverän MXXX and their ancestors such as 400NN) I've read about rare fiction fit nib units, but that doesn't seems like a huge difference? My purpose of this question is that I feel more confident in spending money getting a pen that I know for sure that I can clean the pen thoroughly, apply grease...something like that. Thanks for your answering!
  24. soniknitr

    Twsbi Diamond 580 Review

    With the latest Twsbi Eco making news, I decided to give my old 580 another shot just to make sure whether I should go for another. Find one is good enough for me (personal opinion). Here is also a link to my blog: TWSBI Diamond 580 Review Here goes my review of the 580: My sole motivation behind getting a TWSBI was to disassemble the pen and have all the fun, which I missed. And I got a clear demonstrator, packaged with a nice-looking wrench. THE TWSBI STORY TWSBI (called Twiz-Bee) refers to San Wen Tong, i.e when TWS is spelled backwards and it means ‘Hall of Three Cultures’ according to their website. BI at the end refers to writing instruments. Ta Shin Precision manufactured everything from toy lego parts to high-end writing instruments for several luxury brands (both American & Japanese) for well over 40 years. So that’s plastic, metal & precision, precisely what’s required to make and sell a nice writing instrument, under your own brand name. Which luxury brands? They don’t reveal those due to privacy agreements. I have reasonable doubt from various reviews that one of them is Levenger. And TWSBI Nibs are said to be sourced from JoWo (earlier it was Bock & Schimdt), Germany (same as for Faber-Castell Design Pens). THE FPN CONNECTION An FPN member by the name of speedy started a post with a prototype development for an inexpensive piston filling fountain pen somewhere around late October, 2009. He clarified that he was a pen-maker and shared pictures of TWSBI 530 prototypes in this post. It showed a metallic piston system. And it became a popular brand within a short period of time. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aXanzzgVZpc/Vb2tFd_RXXI/AAAAAAAAFAc/VMOIxx7069c/s1600/Prototype.jpg PRESENTATION That’s probably one of the great aspects of marketing. Inside a brown cardboard box, you will find the pen residing within a clear plastic case. You will instantly fall in love with the presentation part of it. For the lack of a better word, I call it The Apple packaging. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2v-U9j8mEdg/Vb2r5a2wXVI/AAAAAAAAE_Q/PCrDoboa4xw/s1600/DSC_4802.jpg There is an instruction sheet on disassembly of the pen, highlighting the pen parts. Below the white pen-holding shelf, you will find the 7mm TWSBI wrench and a vial of silicone grease in two slots. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1wEqgLBfRVA/Vb2tSxNRwAI/AAAAAAAAFA0/8dvHgT0DmhA/s1600/box.jpg DESIGN - THE GEOMETRICAL TRANSPARENCY (4/6) The build looks sturdy without adding much weight. Plastic economizes both cost and weight of fittings. This pen endorses practical utility rather than art with which you will probably associate a Pelikan or a Visconti. I do find an element of industrial look with the pen. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-COLWtQyBr-o/Vb2rvkWHSqI/AAAAAAAAE_I/_C5pGu7HVTk/s1600/DSC_4833.jpg Most of it is visible engineering, while use of plastic is quite evident in its piston-system. The barrel and cap are made of thick polycarbonate, with a protective heat treated layer for increased resistance to scratches, along with the crystal transparence. The overall fitment is still an area of improvement. One of my experiences is with the piston knob, which does not tighten itself well, as the piston head is pulled back in. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vVlXAJhf34U/Vb2r7Unlx0I/AAAAAAAAE_Y/A6R6VKiUpMQ/s1600/DSC_4829.jpg The cap feels substantial and unscrews with a single turn, revealing a rather dagger-like nib. There is a metallic insert for the nib unit, supplying necessary chrome accents for the aesthetics. The piston knob has a rather broad ring making the mark for disassembly. Multiple polygonal planes orchestrate light effectively within, dazzling both the pen and the ink inside the barrel. The decagonal geometry also prevents an open pen from rolling away. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5lnoYSQczHQ/Vb2sO5WHmuI/AAAAAAAAE_w/coWF8V-uyck/s1600/DSC_4837.jpg The cap has a wide chrome band carrying a laser engraved TWSBI on one side of it and DIAMOND 580 TAIWAN on the other, in three separate lines. Two concentric circles run on this band in the form of imprints. The finial carries a vibrant red & silver TWSBI logo of three pillars within a dome of transparent acrylic. The clip is spring-loaded within a visible system having a chrome tassie and it has a geometrical pyramid-like cut. The cap is heavy and has a smooth circular cross section which can roll the entire pen easily with its weight, until the clip restricts it. You can also observe the relatively greyish inner cap, which prevents the nib from drying out. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hvFDb1IoLBQ/Vb2tS3yDViI/AAAAAAAAFA4/O1cIkYuxahU/s1600/cap.jpg FILLING SYSTEM (5/6) As a piston filler, it does have a good ink capacity around 1.8~2mL. The knob unscrews with three complete turns and manages to draw ink quite efficiently from the bottle. The feeder hole is rather a channel to enable efficient ink suction. One of the improvements could be with the piston knob, which should increasingly tighten itself, as the piston head is pulled back in. Mine stays loosely fastened (after I applied some silicone grease on the piston head) and is directly proportional to the friction at the piston head. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zyu-R2d4OIY/Vb2tEOw3cII/AAAAAAAAFAY/b53TOE9_aQc/s1600/Filler.jpg DISASSEMBLY For this phase, rather than learning from the manual, you can have a look at a 580 disassembly video. I like the one with gouletpens or srebrown. Make sure you thoroughly flush the pen with water before disassembling it. 1. Rotating the piston end-cap counter-clockwise, the piston seal is lowered to a hinged stop inside the barrel. 2. Fit the wrench just below the piston-end-cap, which can unscrewed in a clockwise direction from the piston-knob. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NUkTmOyn-1U/Vb2sxi3fPxI/AAAAAAAAFAI/7YzC3qXppfM/s1600/DSC_4903.jpg 3. The piston mechanism has five different parts as you can see in the picture, though it’s not necessary to remove the rubber piston seal (or head) from the piston rod (spindle). The fittings of the mechanism can be made from higher grade material. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I1IdSoPmNms/Vb2sps-rsbI/AAAAAAAAFAA/LSsSEwOPHFE/s1600/DSC_4913%2Bcopy.jpg 4. The nib unit can be easily removed by first unscrewing the grip section from the barrel. 5. Since, nib is friction fit, you may remove the nib and feed from the unit, in case there is some heavy cleaning required (in case of a bad flow, sometimes the feed is coated with grease which restricts ink-flow). 6. Make sure you apply an adequate amount of silicone grease to the sides of the rubber piston seal (you may ignore the bottom surface) before reassembly. NIB - ALL THAT MATTERS (4/6) The nib/feed unit can be taken out or apart for cleaning purposes. The nib is stainless steel and has a rather small dagger-like design. It comes with four stock widths - EF, F, M, B and two special widths of Stub 1.1 & Stub 1.5. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pUw5Vdlnev4/Vb2sIzRr7-I/AAAAAAAAE_k/h6rOBMIZtfQ/s1600/DSC_4877.jpg The tail end specifies carries the nib width while the name TWSBI along with the logo rest above the tail. There are some curves adorning the inside symmetry of the tines. To be honest it’s kind of a plain design with limited nib leverage. A black plastic feed with a feed channel for ink suction and the thin fins on the other side ensures a good buffer capacity and prevents hard-starts. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vdkLuAmZ2NI/Vb2sJai3UzI/AAAAAAAAE_o/fZXFoCmyeW8/s1600/DSC_4893.jpg Earlier, TWSBI used to source its nibs from Schmidt and then Bock, which is incidentally the nib-supplier for Faber-Castell too. But it’s the alloys and then post-processing that can make a lot of difference even in steel-nibs. PHYSICS OF IT (6/6) – RELATIVELY SPEAKING The pen filled with ink, does have a good balance in terms of both weight and length. The pen is not meant to be posted. The grip is quite comfortable with a section around 1 cm thick. Uncapped Length ~ 13 cm Capped Length ~ 14 cm Nib Leverage ~ 2 cm Overall Weight ~ 28 g (Cap Weight ~ 14 g) Capped and uncapped and posted with a pelikan m805 runs below for your reference. A capped 580 looks similar to a m805. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NlHUezEy6vA/Vb2soSwhyvI/AAAAAAAAE_4/yewH-68smxg/s1600/DSC_4929.jpg Uncapped it obviously lacks the nib of a m805, although the lengths are well-matched. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zIo52iiZJXE/Vb2tCnSS2lI/AAAAAAAAFAQ/0xh7oZmbYUU/s1600/DSC_4937.jpg ECONOMIC VALUE (4/6) It retails at around Rs 5,500 ($ 86) here and I got it from a local store at around $ 70. The problem with ordering it from TWSBI’s website directly is that apart from heavy shipping charges, there are unseen duties to be paid for. Given the fact that you could get one of the usual butter-smooth and more responsive steel-nibbed Faber-Castell pens at a similar or even lesser price, it’s rather a decision of piston vs converter. I hope that the retail prices will get evened out with demand. OVERALL (4.6/6) This nib is wet with a hint of feedback which is expected of fine nibs. I purposely used a less wet ink, since the pen runs smooth with wet inks. There is some line variation which is evident with thicker vertical lines. A complete absence of any perceptible softness in this nib, kills the responsiveness part. The fine nib lays a line which runs between Japanese Fines and European Fines. Being a wet writer out of the box, the Fine nib puts a line which takes around 16-17 seconds to dry on MD Paper with Pelikan 4001 ink. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CwXFByod9IE/Vb2tIszp84I/AAAAAAAAFAo/K60KSx721a8/s1600/DSC_4943.jpg INNER CAP - INK RESIDUE In case you find any ink trapped between the inner cap and the cap, a wooden pencil fitted with attached eraser, can help clean it. I have experienced this kind of leakage during air-travel. 1. Take the wooden pencil (Standard #2) and insert the eraser-end into the cap. 2. Bend the cap in one direction, while putting pressure on the eraser in the opposite direction. 3. Slowly use the friction created by the eraser to pull out the inner cap. 4. Wash the ink out (Plain water is fine). 5. Re-insert the inner cap, and screw the pen back in, and it should friction-fit back into its original position. REFERENCES FPN TWSBI Bock Clientele Ink Residue Disassembly - gouletpens, srebrown Thank you for going through the review. You can find some more pen and paraphernalia reviews here.
  25. chossenger

    Unidentifiable "lamy" Converter

    Heya peeps So my mother recently uncovered her Lamy Safari from when she was much my age (so it's ~20 years old, I'm guessing), and decided to give it to me, knowing that I was into fountain pens. It's a little the worse for wear (or lack of, rather), as she didn't clean it out before it got shelved, containing a goodly quantity of blue sediment. I eventually got the pen apart and (mostly) cleaned up, but the converter is giving a little more resistance. http://i.imgur.com/tNBBwXZ.jpg It's marked as being a Lamy converter, but it's neither a Z24 nor a Z26. The twiddly plastic grip section is circular and ribbed, rather than the semi-rectangular flat of the standard Lamy converters, and the metal divider between the knob and the clear reservoir has etchings at the top of it, all rather different to the Z2* converters. I can't find any mention (or graphical evidence) of these existing anywhere. Anyway, I'm having some difficulty working out how to disassemble it. Regardless of whether it's an authentic, if outdated, Lamy converter, I'd be happy to continue using it if only I could get it apart to give it a good clean. Does anybody have any tips about its origins or how to get the little bugger apart? A few more images.





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