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  1. Hi Everyone Being new in the world of fountain pens and restoration of them, I am not sure how to approach polishing. I know some are in favor of polishing others are not. If you decided to polish what products are best for which material? · Harden rubber · Casein · Bakelite · Celluloid · Thermoplastics · Metal parts · … Assuming that you always start with a less critical area to see how things turn out in the specific case. What products do you recommend for the different materials? I am not looking for long detailed answers. More something simple and short like below. · Harden rubber: XXX, YYY and ZZZ · Casein: XXX and never ZZZ · Bakelite: BBB and YYY · Celluloid: No idea · Thermoplastics: XXX · Metal parts: AAA Let me know if a post about this already exists. I am looking forward to read your answers. Thanks.
  2. bohemio666

    Sheaffer Fashion II

    Recently visited Pens Point, a pen store in New Delhi, India, more known perhaps for the handmade fountain pens it markets under the brand Delmoon. Got a Sheaffer Fashion II, as in the 2nd edition of the Fashion line offered by Sheaffer, manufactured in the United States of America through the 1990s. In fact, this is the first and only Sheaffer pen that I have from that period till now. This probably also ranks among the last Sheaffer pens to be manufactured in the US before the production units in Hong Kong took over. It’s splitting hairs but it might be the smoothest medium steel nib Sheaffer I have come to own till date. This one probably takes the cake not only because of the sweet spot but more because of the lack of almost any feedback whatsoever. Performance wise, there are absolutely no issues so far, save for it being too smooth a medium nib for the writing to be controlled sometimes! This unit has a slightly loose clip on the cap, but these issues can be expected from used pens. So, I am definitely not looking forward to wearing it clipped to my shirt. It’s a 1990s production as I stated earlier, so probably attracts the debate as to whether it would qualify as a true vintage – I mean, I have lived longer than this pen has been in existence. Playing around with it for a visual review here.
  3. Recently visited Pens Point, a pen store in New Delhi, India, more known perhaps for the handmade fountain pens it markets under the brand Delmoon. Got a Sheaffer Fashion II, as in the 2nd edition of the Fashion line offered by Sheaffer, manufactured in the United States of America through the 1990s. In fact, this is the first and only Sheaffer pen that I have from that period till now. This probably also ranks among the last Sheaffer pens to be manufactured in the US before the production units in Hong Kong took over. It’s splitting hairs but it might be the smoothest medium steel nib Sheaffer I have come to own till date. This one probably takes the cake not only because of the sweet spot but more because of the lack of almost any feedback whatsoever. Performance wise, there are absolutely no issues so far, save for it being too smooth a medium nib for the writing to be controlled sometimes! This unit has a slightly loose clip on the cap, but these issues can be expected from used pens. So, I am definitely not looking forward to wearing it clipped to my shirt. It’s a 1990s production as I stated earlier, so probably attracts the debate as to whether it would qualify as a true vintage – I mean, I have lived longer than this pen has been in existence. Playing around with it for a visual review here.
  4. Kyon Thinh

    Dating my Kaweco

    Hi everyone, recently I bought a pen lot and inside there was this pen. On the barrel there is Helios and a number 21. I can't find any information regarding this so it would be nice if someone can broaden my horizon of knowledge and also tell me what should I do to take care of it, in case it is a prewar Kaweco.
  5. Picked up a couple vintage pens at an antique mall, and got a mini pen/pencil set for Christmas. Still trying to clean them up to identify, but this one is the only thing that has some identifier on the pen, which in this case is a logo on the clip. The logo is appears to be an "S" using dashed lines, with a dashed line "O" above the "S" as well as within the loops of the S. (photo attached). First thought was Sheaffer, but the pen has nothing else in common with what you'd expect from Sheaffer. Also, looks to be maybe a 14k gold plate nib that the gold is wearing off. So I'm kinda at a loss. Any thoughts for the internet hive mind? (will add more photos to the thread of all the pens once they've been a little more cleaned up. Thanks!
  6. Please help identify this vintage Waterman safety nib pen. What I know so far: 1 It’s a Waterman safety nib (much like the Montblanc Bohemes) 2 Julia Gusano said it’s from the 1920s. 3 It has an eyedropper filling system. 4 The silver has a 935 grade. 5 It’s smol.
  7. FlexySouthPaw

    Restoring Ebonite color - Waterman 55

    I have recently become somewhat of a vintage flex addict, and in particular, ebonite is my kryptonite. In this process, I acquired a Waterman 55, which is by far my favorite pen due to its versatility and smooth nib. It's usable as an everyday pen, but still has the flex when I want it. But my pen had a somewhat dark chocolatey brown color, quite noticable compared to my rich black Conklin 2 next to it. I didn't realize how brown it was until I got the Conklin pen. I've tried soaking it in oxi-clean, soaking it in ammonia, soaking it with mineral oil, and lightly polishing it. I don't want to polish it too hard, because it does still have some chasing left, and I like the Waterman imprint. I keep reading on here of dyes for ebonite, but I can't find any actual examples of such dyes. What are people using to dye old ebonite? I know dying is controversial, so if there's any other way to make my Waterman 55 the nice rich color like my Conklin 2, please share. I'm somewhat new to vintage pens.
  8. Dear fellow FPNers, I have recently acquired 2 vintage Onoto plunger fillers, a model 3000 with a No.3/ST nib, and a model 6000 with a No.3 nib. Could someone please let me know if the nibs And what does the "ST" on the No 3/ST stand are interchangeable? for? I look forward to your feedback Thanks in advance!
  9. Dear fellow FPNers, I have recently acquired 2 vintage Onoto plunger fillers, a model 3000 with a No.3/ST nib, and a model 6000 with a No.3 nib. Could someone please let me know if the nibs are interchangeable? And what does the "ST" on the No 3/ST stand for? I look forward to your feedback Thanks in advance! Best, J
  10. Hello! I am new to collecting vintage pens and picked a couple up this weekend at the pen show. We are having trouble identifying this one in particular. We have found similar pens but none this size.
  11. Hi, This is not my first time using a flex fountain pen. I have a pilot 912 FA and a bluedew flex pen but this is my first experience a vintage flex fountain pen. I just received my a vintage waterman fountain pen (a 'new look' that is made between 1940-1950 by JIF-Waterman). According to the seller, this nib can go from EF to 2.0mm. I was experimenting the flex of the pen. And I was too stupid to actually flex it that hard and half of the tip came off from the nib. I still have the tip that is broken off. Is the pen can still be saved or is it only a piece of accessory now? 😭 Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestion.
  12. My husband purchased this pen online (he was interested because of the Chicago WF connection). It's really large (see photo in which I've placed an ordinary-sized Chinese FP next to the CWF pen). The Fair also sold a "Midget" version (that seems to have been the trademark). I don't know whether there were other sizes. Neither of us knows much about dip pens, so I thought I would ask folks here if they had any insight into what is wrong with or missing from the ferrule, and whether there is a way to fix it. The nib can slide in, but it will then fall right back out again. Any insights? For all I know, this may be an entirely basic question....
  13. Hi all, I just purchased a lovely vintage Conway Stewart Dinkie pen and pencil set, circa early 1950s (from Heritage Collections in the UK). Both write beautifully. (Picture below) But I wondered if anyone out there collecting them can fill me in on some basics: 1. How do I refill the lead in the pencil? Through the tip or the barrel? If the barrel, is there some secret to getting in to the barrel? 2. Similarly, how do I separate the fountain pen section from its barrel? 3. Is Casein a form of plastic? 3. Is the 1.2 mm lead readily available? Has anyone out there tried 1.1 mm lead, which I've seen for sale, and found it fits sufficiently well? ---Both pen and pencil seem to be so tightly connected that I fear if I try to open them, I might break something. Are they supposed to be this way? I started to wonder whether I am not supposed to open them at all . . . . But that doesn't make sense to me, since these pens/pencils were used by so many for everyday writing and they would have needed to get at them at some point or another. Many thanks for any help. Liz
  14. I have a Sheaffer Tuckaway pen of my father's, c. 1944-1945. It was recently professionally restored and I need to know the best ink to use in this type of pen. Is Noodler's Eel safe? Monteverde or Herbin? Do I need to use, or avoid lubricated ink for this pen?
  15. Hello everyone at FPN , on Friday I just bought my first vintage fountain pen a beautiful Parker 51 teal blue lustraloy cap in near mint condition and restored, I look forward to it coming soon . I'm looking for a blue-black or blue ink that is water resistant and does not fade like other blue inks I've used before such as lamy blue that behaves quite well but my notes that I took a few months ago are about to disappear completely and also with the water goes completely. For that kind of problems I usually use noodler's black and blue black which turned out to be good inks in my 2000 lamy but the thing is that the lamy 2000 can be completely disassembled to give it a deep cleaning with water. I do this every one or two weeks . First I clean it quite well with water until the clear water comes out and then I dismantle it and I have noticed that although the water has gone clear, I find the feeder and the interior of the hood stained as if they had soot. What is presented fairly with the noodler's inks is nib creep. This does not bother me as much in my 2000 lamy as I mentioned earlier because I can completely disassemble it and clean it thoroughly. But I'm wondering if using this type of ink would be detrimental to Parker 51 when I did not know how to disassemble it and remove that soot or dye residue inside the hood and the feeder. So I ask you what ink do you recommend for Parker 51 that is water resistant and does not fade and is low maintenance and does not clog. I have seen good reviews about the pilot blue-black ink and it is low maintenance So I hope your recommendations and that you share your experiences with me since it is my first vintage fountain pen.
  16. Pen_Padawan

    Kobe Pen Show 2018

    FYI: Kobe Pen Show 2018. November 23, 24, 25.
  17. Can someone let me know the manufacture date for this pen. It is a Burroughs Fountain Pen On the transparent part of the barrel, it says Burroughs Pen Co 333 Washington St. Boston Massachusetts USA I've tried researching it, but I have not found any information on when it was manufactured. I found the pen on Ebay, and the seller doesn't have any information on the pen.
  18. panu

    Wilson Gold Coronet

    This pen was lying in my Fathers almirah , and is called WILSON CORONET. I do not understand how i can fill ink in it.There is a plastic container at bottom and that cannot be opened by any means. http://i64.tinypic.com/2802xs7.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/v6lp20.jpg
  19. Just picked this little guy up on eBay... Hasn't arrived yet, but I'm wondering what I need to have on hand to clean it when it gets here? The auction description gave zero info on what materials it's made from (except the nib), so I'm not sure what solutions I ought to use to soak what looks like old gunked up ink out of the feed, etc. It appears I may need to de-gunk it before I can even get the nib & feed off to straighten it out. Thanks in advance for any tips! I'll post more photos (if needed) as soon as it arrives! (edit: Just realized how huge the original images were. Uploaded smaller versions.)
  20. stringsandpedals

    Kaweco Dia 803 08 Piston

    My dear FPN crew, I'm a little frustrated. I found this beautiful Kaweco Dia 803/08 on Shpok (online flea market app essentially). I first cleaned it and flushed, and soon noticed that the cork must've shrunk over the years. I sat it in water for a few days, which couldn't revive the cork's functionality. So I tried to look up how to change the piston, and found out through this video, how to actually screw out the piston unit. Timo also pointed out in the video (at around 3:48) that unscrewing this part would prove to be quite difficult, because it's quite small. I already saw that people might have attempted unscrewing it with pliers as it looks a little scratched. I've been trying to screw off the part with nylon pliers - but without success. Can anyone help me? Does anyone have a helpful piece of advice? Also, if anyone could help me out with the year of production, that would be amazing, too. http://66.media.tumblr.com/8984c5c4fcf2de732db5bbc24952ced8/tumblr_od2uo0kBwB1vo6rxoo1_1280.jpg
  21. It was my father who planned the Varanasi outing last December , I was initially not much excited for the trip but as the trip progressed I quite liked the idea. Nevertheless Varanasi is around 250-300 Kms from Lucknow and a Night train world always work as long as you are in the AC compartment . So apparently we booked a rather decent hotel which we found out not to be so nice as on the left of the hotel just below two floors from our window was a milk delivery factory from where the Milk Delivery Guys refilled their cans and this went on 24X7 so there was a lot of noise even at 2 am . Well the next day when we started walking towards the Dasashwamedh Ghat from the Hotel which is very nearby . We went through a market called "Dashashwamedha Market" . 'Voila ' on the left side of the street I found a pen-shop which was its literal shop name as well . So I went there alone leaving my parents to venture into other shops . The shop owner as I expected wasn't an elderly gentleman but a rather awkward looking teenager . But apart from his looks he had quite a collection of vintage pens which he straightaway told me were not for sale . But he pulled out a pen from the same tray , which was this beautiful maroon swan pen and a Sheaffer which looked brand new. I was unfortunately low on cash so I bought the Swan for real bargain at Rs 250 which is around $ 3.4 . He was asking Sheaffer Rs500 for the Sheaffer approx $6-7 but I thought I can always buy a Sheaffer in Lucknow but a Swan is a real treat . I think I should have bought both . As I saw the "Made In India " etched in the barrel I did suspect whether it is a real deal or not. But I think I read somewhere that Mabie Todd made pens in India as well. Sorry for the phone camera as it is not taking good pictures now so I could not get the whole picture of the etching . But it says (Swan Senior Mabie Todd & Co Made In India. I guess the pen was made somewhere during the 1950's but it can be as old as from early 1940's .
  22. A friend found and gave me an old fp. It's gray and green marble plastic, side lever action refil mechanism, and the nib and clip says sapphire on it. Any clue who made this pen?
  23. Hey everyone! Recently inherited a vintage 146 from my uncle with a cracked cap, and took it into the Hong Kong Montblanc store for a repair. Had just the worlds worst string of bad customer service, lack of professionalism, and overall horrible attitude far beyond anything I've experienced in a long while. I really am hoping to write an email to someone at Montblanc - ideally someone in the Hong Kong, or APAC region - but really anyone who can help with customer service would be appreciated. After an hour or so of searching, I can't seem to find anything except for the CEO, J Lamberts - who isn't someone who could help - and the general 'service@montblanc.com' email. Does anyone know any way I can reach out to them? Cheers!
  24. Request for a replacement pàrt for the pilot pen venishing point 14K fountain pen. I am enclosing photos of damaged part pl help
  25. Hi guys, I bought this pen at the marché aux puces in Poland for $3 I am not the MontBlanc expert, so I am no sure what the model is. On the cap I can read: "4810" and below: "MONTBLANC//\\MEISERSTUCK". The pen has other imprints, but I can't read them in all. Something is on the barrel, but completly unreadable and on the head of piston (photo no 5)... maybe 2F, EF and D, but I am not sure.I think that body was made of black rubber. Pen has 18ct gold nib, marked 25 with MB logo. Anybody knows what model this is, when was made and what it's worth? Much more than $3? Thanks





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