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  1. Hello, I am communicating to all of you who have great experience in these pens. I just purchased my first vintage pen parker 51 aerometric condition near mint restored from a reliable website. But the problem is that the pen has a miserable ink flow like I've never seen, an extremely dry flow that makes the black ink look gray like a very soft pencil. It is also worse in my case that I write in cursive and fast and my loops look terrible and feel rough and look dim. And my question is if I'm supposed to have bought it restored so it's clean and free of obstructions or is it a problem with the nib? I feel quite nervous and disappointed honestly I like the grip and design of the pen but its performance is the worst felt in a fountain pen. And this happened with the most wet ink I have, I can imagine the terrible result with a dry ink = 0
  2. Hello FPN, I'm working on restoring this 1949 Parker 51 Aerometric as a send-off gift for my sister's first year of law school. This one has some chipping on the Aerometric sac protector. Is there any way to stop it from chipping? I don't expect to restore the original chrome finish, but I was hoping to just stop any further chipping while making it look like a professional job. Can I use clear nail polish? Resoline? Any ideas? Thanks!
  3. peroride

    Parker 51 vintage aerometrics

    From the album: peroride_pen_pics

    Parker 51 pens from a bygone era

    • 0 B
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  4. white_lotus

    Parker 21 Aerometric Filler Removal

    I'm sorry if this is a common almost silly question. I used the google search and found lots of entries about removing the nibs on a Parker 21, some things on disassembly of of the actual aerometric filling mechanism. Question #1: But I didn't see anything on the removal of the filling mechanism from the body of the pen. In looking around at pictures, I think it is threaded, so should unscrew. Is this correct? Question #2: Also, again just to make sure, does it follow the "lefty loosy" rule? If if the nib points to my left, and the top of the pen to my right, I'd turn the filling mechanism away from me. Is that correct? I've cleaned most of the ink out of the pen, but I do notice when the pen is water, I see a little bit of ink coming from where the filling mechanism attaches to the pen body (just above the barrel threads). I'd guess that I may need to replace the sac as perhaps the fix there is not as good as it should be. Question #3: What size sac for the Parker 21 aerometric filling system? Is is the same as the Parker 51? I see old threads and I'm unsure whether a straight sac is needed or a tapered sac. The current sac on the pen is black (not from ink, but it's rubber). The chart at Pendemonium for a Parker 51 says a 17 ½ tapered. As an aside of that, David Nishimura's site Vintage Pens does have new "Pil-Glass" sacs for Parker 51's aerometrics. My other Parker 21 does have that kind of sac. So maybe on that I've answered my own question. But I want to be certain. Thanks in advance! Cheryl, pen surgeon novice-in-training
  5. GClef

    My One And Only Parker

    http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m496/gclef1114/New%20Stuff/A1475F3F-C37A-4C43-8754-984F4DCAD63D.jpg http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m496/gclef1114/New%20Stuff/02D49648-F831-48B2-A911-C1019007F687.jpg http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m496/gclef1114/New%20Stuff/AFF39F21-BF62-4476-A54A-0BB3AA9F653A.jpg
  6. Hello! I recently obtained my Grail pen, a Parker 51 "Special" in Sterling, but unfortunately the section was cracked in several places. This Parker 51 section has a special layout, with it's feed being a pull-twist removal feed. Because this part is seldom sold anywhere due to color and type, and is extremely expensive when sold; I have decided to repair it. Being just an amateur restorer, I contacted a very nice fellow (Siamack) and he/she guided me to a Parker 51 repair thread! This thread from Siamack leads me to the repair materials. I have decided to use either Loctite Shoe Glue (unorthodox) or Plastruct Plastic Weld (volatile, hold stronger). I picked shoe glue due to it's silicone properties (watertight, harmless to most plastics), it's very strong features (I've repaired statues with this type of adhesive), and it's availability, and Plastruct is picked due to it's recommended use in the forums. Feed, section, and clutch ring An easier repair job removal of clutch ring shows no extra cracks. I now have a problem: How would we remove the inner "tube" inside the section? The tube restricts access to the cracks on the top of the section, so it's removal is a must. - Thanks to all who comment and read!
  7. cabbie

    Parker 21 Sac Replacement

    I recently acquired a Parker 21 that is missing its sac. The metal aerometric shell is in place, just no sac. I would like to replace it myself but can't find any info here or on YouTube about putting in a replacement sac for a Parker 21. My experience level-I have extensive knowledge of 45s but little on older pens with sacs. I have replaced the cracked hood on another 21 I bought. I have watched Danny Fudge replace several sacs on Esterbrook Js. My questions: 1) Are there any videos or guides for replacing the sac on a Parker 21? 2) Will I need to remove the hood to remove the aerometric filler? 3) Do 21s have a breather tube? (I don't see one on mine) Thanks for any suggestions and advice.
  8. Hello everyone at FPN , on Friday I just bought my first vintage fountain pen a beautiful Parker 51 teal blue lustraloy cap in near mint condition and restored, I look forward to it coming soon . I'm looking for a blue-black or blue ink that is water resistant and does not fade like other blue inks I've used before such as lamy blue that behaves quite well but my notes that I took a few months ago are about to disappear completely and also with the water goes completely. For that kind of problems I usually use noodler's black and blue black which turned out to be good inks in my 2000 lamy but the thing is that the lamy 2000 can be completely disassembled to give it a deep cleaning with water. I do this every one or two weeks . First I clean it quite well with water until the clear water comes out and then I dismantle it and I have noticed that although the water has gone clear, I find the feeder and the interior of the hood stained as if they had soot. What is presented fairly with the noodler's inks is nib creep. This does not bother me as much in my 2000 lamy as I mentioned earlier because I can completely disassemble it and clean it thoroughly. But I'm wondering if using this type of ink would be detrimental to Parker 51 when I did not know how to disassemble it and remove that soot or dye residue inside the hood and the feeder. So I ask you what ink do you recommend for Parker 51 that is water resistant and does not fade and is low maintenance and does not clog. I have seen good reviews about the pilot blue-black ink and it is low maintenance So I hope your recommendations and that you share your experiences with me since it is my first vintage fountain pen.
  9. So after my first failed attempt at getting myself a Parker 51 pen (got an Aerometric with the correct cap, but with a Vacumatic clip and travesty jewel), I set myself to restore balance to the galaxy by looking for another cap that could make my pen look like it was originally meant. Unfortunately, it seems not an easy task to find a cap for these pens at a reasonable price. As such, I was left with a pen with the wrong cap and a minor leak round the clutch ring, so instead of looking for a cap, I went searching for another pen! So here's what I just got. Can anyone tell me if now everything seems to be in order?
  10. gammada

    My Very First Parker 51!

    Finally managed to get my hands on a beautiful Parker 51 fountain pen! It seems to be quite an odd Aerometric MK I model with a cap that might or not belong to this very pen. The cap has the Parker inscription over the clip (like the Vacumatics) but no diamond. It also says its was Made in Canada. The barrel or section don't have any inscriptions at all, while the filler mechanism says Made in USA. It's got what appears to be a medium nib that is super smooth and quite wet and a body that looks terrific after a mild polishing. The cap has small dents but nothing easily noticeable. I paid a mere $45 for it so I guess I didn't do that bad. Here's the pen, what do you think of it?
  11. PrestoTenebroso

    New Desiderata Pen…For Real.

    Hello Everyone, I don't announce this kind of thing very much, but I wanted to share it with you kind people because this is one of my favorite places to go on the internet, and the FPN community is what makes it so for me. I am coming out with my latest production pens since the Icarus. I am very pleased with how they both are coming out. Those of you who know me personally know that I am not very easily pleased. It's been a long time since I used a pen that felt as comfortable as these. 1: As some of you know, I love wood. I think it's beautiful, has an unsurpassed feel, and makes an excellent construction material for many things, but it poses unique challenges when used for a fountain pen. I've been struggling with that problem for years, but now, I've finally gotten good enough that I can work with tolerances tight enough to make the dream a reality. For years I've wanted an all-wooden pen, and now I have one. Wooden cap, wooden barrel, wooden grip. Hands down, this is the most comfortable pen I've ever made. Wood can stain, and that's been accounted for in the design. When you get your hands on this, I think the pen will disappear into the experience of writing with it. I want to use it all the time, but for the work I do, I often need a clip for my pens. This pen will come with the option to install a functional, designed steel clip. My first release of this pen is just about 8 units, but I'll be making more in the future. They all fill with a simple, reliable aerometric sac. The beauty of an aerometric sac is how easy it is to fill and clean, but the ink capacity (around 2.5ml) isn't as voluminous as you might get with an eyedropper filled pen, so to prevent you from getting caught with an empty pen, some of these will have an ink window. Three, to be exact. 2. The first run you'll have available are made from highly patterned fancypantz german ebonite. The material has a black base color and has green, red or blue ripples in it. The big problem with this material (besides it being very expensive) is that it's so dark that it really doesn't photograph well, and even in person, it's hard to get a clear fix on what's going on with the color pattern. Well, I've solved that problem through faceting. The way the light glints off the sides attracts the eye in a way that's hard to describe. The pen has 12 gently tapered, faceted, painstakingly-finished-by-hand sides on the cap and on the barrel. Ink windows are optional, as are clips with this model. So, I've been talking about how these pens feel while writing. What nibs can you use? Jowo F (more of a "Western fine"/medium; .4-.5mm)Pilot XF (a true extra fine .2mm)Zebra G flex nib units (with my usual, handmade, purpose-designed ebonite feeds)Nemosine .6mm italicAll these pens come with interchangeable nib units, so you can switch nibs within one and the same pen. Just unscrew (or, if you want, just use a simple hex/Allen wrench you probably have at home). These will come out this week. I think "Black Friday" is stupid, but if you want to be the first to know when these pens will be available for sale, please consider signing up for my mailing at the top of this FAQ page here. Price? I can't speak to that right now, but I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on that subject. Please email me at DesiderataPens <<<AT>>> JEE-MALE <<<DOT>>> com., or leave a comment.
  12. truthpil

    Parker 51 Mk1 Section Types Question

    Hi Everyone, I've been trying to find a straight answer on this but have been unsuccessful. I need to replace the damaged hoods on a couple of my 1950s aerometric Parker 51s, but don't know whether to get the "recessed" hoods which have space inside for an o-ring or the non-recessed ones which simply have threading. Does it matter which kind? Do you have to replace a hood with the same type that was originally on the pen? I'm hoping it doesn't matter, because I'd rather not take the pen apart to find out what kind it has. Thanks for your help!
  13. When I disassemble Parker "51" aerometric pens, I find two kinds of breather tubes. Sometimes, the tube is metal (silver or stainless steel). The tube is pretty long, going pretty far into the sac, and there is a tiny little hole in the side of the tube, close to where it enters the feed. The other kind is a short, plastic tube, which makes a little "comma" shape as it comes out the back of the feed. These do not have the tiny little hole in the side. So, I was wondering two questions, which I was hoping someone more knowledgeable than I am about the "51" could answer. I gather from the vintagepens.com site that these two kinds of breather tube are specific to the feed. On the page listing parts for sale, the entry for the Teflon tubing describes the tubing as being for "later 51s with plastic breather tubes." Does this mean that you cannot use metal breathing tubes with these later "51" models? If so, which ones? Because I have seen plastic tubes in Mark I pens. But maybe these were refurbs -- I don't know. It seems to me that the plastic breathing tube is inferior, for two reasons. First, whenever I see it used in a "51," the tubing is always significantly shorter than the metal breathing tube -- it doesn't go as far back into the sac as the metal tube. This would limit the fill capacity of the pen by a lot, it seems to me -- after you have ink in the sac up to the level of the tube-end, further pressing on the squeeze bar would just push ink in and out of the sac. It's the cascading/fountaining over the end of the tube that implements the one-way "rectifier" effect that fills the pen. I suppose you could cut the tubes longer, but they aren't very straight, and perhaps they would curve over and impinge on the side of the sac? I am theorising here; what I observe is that the plastic tubes are short. Second, these tubes don't have the tiny little air hole in the side of the tube. But this is what makes an "aerometric filler" aerometric! It's the little inovation that lets sea-level air bleed out of a nib-up pen when cabin pressure on an airplane drops. So… what the heck? Did Parker just decide at some point to stop making their aerometric pens aerometric? OK, as long as I'm asking questions, here's one more for the "51" historians: why silver? Why did Parker make the breathing tubes out of silver instead of stainless steel or some cheaper material? I mean, sure, the silver tubes are prettier, but somehow I don't think that was the reason…E. K.
  14. I just gave myself two lovely Targa pens as a birthday gift. One is the Black Laque model, the other is a gold-plated pen with a striped pattern that I've been unable to identify on the sheaffertarga.com site (looks like a Regency sans the black contrasting paint). Both pens came in pretty good condition, with lovely 14k inlaid nibs that were properly treated and taken care of, but unfortunately, both came with cartridge units rather than converters. Upon returning home and doing the cleaning and the flushing, I tried fitting the aerometric converters from both my Blue Ronce Targa and my Triumph 550 (late 70's, early 80's) into the Black Laque pen which I was planning to use on a daily basis on my desk, but much to my surprise, the converters just won't fit! They are lose and don't seat properly on the newer pens. I was able to fit the entire section of the Blue Ronce into the Black Laque, thou. I would have expected these pens to be the same as those previously issued, but this seems not to be the case. Are there special or modern converters for these pens? BTW the writing behind the pens was made with the nib from the older one. It gives a lot of line variation within pretty little pressure. A joy!
  15. I purchased this Parker Maxima UK Duofold 1958+ Aerometric filler by winning the eBay auction. My British friend had given me her late mother's Maxima- a teal one, that I have kept safe by not using it. However, I was always wanting to buy and try one in my daily library work. With a librarian's salary, it is difficult to afford such pleasures. I saved and saved and then I got it. I was pleased with this large formal and formidable-looking black Parker Maxima. It came from the UK and it was worth a wait due to a weak Sterling and a strong dollar. It writes wet medium line that is extremely beautiful. The ink I used was Waterman Serenity Blue. I am loving this pen and posting my limited first review. Enjoy the pictures.
  16. Hi Everyone Recently my Mom gave me her USA made Parker 51 Aerometric fountain and Jotter ballpoint pen set with 270-M case. It was given to her new as a gift by my Dad before they were married in 1956. He had purchased it while serving in the USAF in England. I recall the fountain pen from my youth but it hasn't worked for as long as I can remember. When I got the set last week, I immediately started learning about the fountain pen. Soon found it was an standard Aerometric pen in Burgundy. While the pen is not dated, it was likely produced in 1955/56 since the Jotter ballpoint was introduced in 1955 (or so I understand, some sources say 1954 for the Jotter). The 12k gold filled cap is in good shape with no dents or major scratches and has the "Made in USA" impression. Unfortunately the pen was found in two pieces. Someone had apparently gotten too aggressive taking the barrel off. The section (or connector/coupler) was broken at the hood opening. Dried ink had clogged most of the pen including the barrel threads. After a lot of reading and watching YouTube videos, I was able to get it disassembled with water and cleaned up. The gold nib and other parts are in great condition. The stainless steel sac cage states "press 4 times". Getting the remaining piece of section out of the hood was a challenge. I used hot water to heat up the hood treads and pressed the point of a pick partially into the broken end. It took a few cycles and some patience but I was able to get the piece to back out without damage to the hood or feeder. Can't say this technique is good all the time but it did work. An O-ring came out with the section piece and the hood has the recess for the O-ring. The plastic feeder tube measures about 31 mm from where it enters the feeder. Hopefully I'll find a replacement section from a parts pen or other source. It looks exactly like the sold out part on David Nishimura web site. Mine measures 29mm without the sac and has 5 fine threads on the feeder end and 6 fine threads on the sac end. http://www.vintagepens.com/images/cat/parts/6704.jpg Looking to have some fun and own a few more of these great writing instruments. Cheers Rich
  17. I have just got a beautiful English aerometric Parker 51 from 1965, but when I flushed out the dry old ink the press-four-times filler slowly started letting out water at the opening where one pushes. I assume that the pli sack has gone loose and either has to be replaced or re-glued with shellac - which leaves me with some questions: 1) How do I get the filler out? (It certainly is not easy to get it out and I don't want to use to much force.) Is it correct that it is not screwed in? Does it help putting it in warm water? 2) Any advice on what size of pli sack I should get will be appreciated, as will any advice on what brand of shellac to use and any details with regard to the procedure in general. I have looked all over FPN but I have found very little on the subject, so if you are experienced in these matters please give me as much advice as possible. Best regards Ursus
  18. Does anyone have those new replacement sacs? Is it similar as those on the Hero 616/338/007 replacement sacs? For those who are interested there are 2 sizes; larger ones for the Hero 100/616 doctor and the smaller ones for the 616 normal/007/338: https://world.taobao.com/item/36251733375.htm BE WARNED it is in Mandarin so probably google translate? Many Thanks
  19. octatonic

    Double Jewel...

    So I guess it's a '51' Double Jewel if there is one jewel in the pen and one jewel in the pencil........ http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARKER-51-FOUNTAIN-PEN-PENCIL-SET-270-MAROON-RED-CHROME-DOUBLE-JEWEL-W-CASE-/262318440406?hash=item3d1365bfd6:g:dnoAAOSwYlJW2LoB
  20. octatonic

    Parker '51' Aerometric Color Poll

    Hi All- I got to thinking the other night (while trying to fall asleep) what was my least favorite '51' Aero color and thought it would be interesting to see what all of you thought... so, which is your least favorite?
  21. Hi All- Please forgive the question if it has been answered before-I did a search and didn't come up with much for a '51' Aero pencil repair. I am a relative newbie and had read somewhere that the '51' pencil barrels are not the same (lucite) as the pens. I have a pencil with a crack in the barrel that I would like to stabilize so that it doesn't get any worse. It will be a user pencil for me, so I am not super concerned with cosmetics, but certainly don't want to do any harm, or use the wrong stuff. What should I use to stabilize the crack? I have attached a close-up picture. Thanks in advance for any and all guidance!-
  22. Seville

    Panama Aerometric

    I just picked up this vintage Italian Panama Aerometric fountain pen but am unsure about how to get the metal cage off so that I can replace the sac. I think that the cage may be shellaced on and in that case i suppose heat would do the trick. However instead of rushing in I thought that I would ask here. Thanks Philip DSCN0887_result by Seville36, on Flickr DSCN0886_result by Seville36, on Flickr
  23. octatonic

    Apparently, I Got It... ? Backwards...

    Apparently I got it backwards...? So THIS is a '51' Vac?... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Parker-51-Vacumatic-Pen-Maroon-w-Silver-Two-Tone-Top-/201446893941?hash=item2ee72ba975 and THIS is a '51' Aerometric?... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Parker-51-Aerometric-Fountain-Pen-Pencil-Set-1940s-Canada-/171967097205?hash=item280a09a975 I stand corrected...? Now that there is the World Wide Super Highway, you think that it would be easier to discern these things... LOL-apologies in advance, long day of teaching........
  24. octatonic

    '51' Aerometric Pencil Cap Question

    Hi All- some time ago I fell in love with the Parker '51' Aerometric demi and now have a ...few I recently discovered that I really like the Aerometric pencils as well. I have a few and recently got a burgundy one. The band on the caps of all the others I have is a thin band, but this one has a wide band. I looked on here and on the web and can't seem to find any info on this. Just wondering, was it a choice at the time, or is it a particular year(s)? Thanks for any help!!!
  25. DuckMcF

    New To Me P51 (Near) New Old Stock

    Hi Gang, Just a quick note to rave on about the Parker 51 aerometric that I recently acquired, and to pose a question. As you’ll see in the picture below its stunning and as close to NOS as I've been able to find. I've long wanted an English made, Navy Grey P51 with a broad nib as it's just like the one my father bought some time back in the 50's. As a 10 year old in the mid 70's I found my father’s Parker 51 and tried to fix it for him. I'm not entirely sure what had happened to his pen up until that point, but my memory was that it wasn't filling properly and the nib was all over the place. With a 10 year's patience and skill level my repair went as could be expected and the pen disappeared into the mists of time. Fast forward to last week and I've picked up the pen pictured above. I ran with the, "You've Got Your First Found In The Wild Parker 51 In Your Hand, Now What?", playbook and then inked it. It was smooth as silk, but drier than it should be. After a few days of flushing and ultrasonic cleaning it wasn't getting any better and so it was time to look under the hood. I expected it to have some caked in Superchrome or P51 ink that needed to be sorted out. Amazingly, it was crystal clear, the only issue was that the feed & nib weren’t correctly aligned with the collector. A quick check of “Da Book” indicated that the wide channel should be directly above the nib, but it was actually rotated about 70 degrees. I reassembled it, inked it; perfection! I was originally looking for a P51 to use as a daily writer. My problem is that as this pen really is near new old stock, complete with chalk marks and a perfect period correct box, I’m really starting to think that I should preserve it rather than use it. That said, pens are to be used, and a pen as glorious as this deserves to be written with every day. So there it is. What would you do?

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