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  1. Hello, Hope you are doing well. I'm interested in finding the best components of Fountain Pen such as Nibs, Brass tubes, Resin tubes, Feed, Ink Collector, Ink Converter, Inner Barrel and other inserts. Preferably in the Asian market. Any recommendation? Thanks
  2. I've recently found this pen in an old drawer, and by doing my research on this forum I've learned it is a 144 from the early 80's (monotone gold nib, gold trim near nib, resin threads, ebonite smooth feed, etc..) . However, there's a little detail in my pen that no one seems to mention, so it makes me doubt the authenticity of the pen. The barrel is not completly hollow, it is only until you reach the gold trim area, where it just becomes (apparently) solid. This makes it so that it is impossible to fit anything slightly bigger than a small cartridge. The pen writes very well and all the other details match the stuff I read here 100%. I'd appreciate any help on this matter. Thank you in advance. Edit: I should mention that if I put the phone light through the pen cap, it glows red, so the pen is almost surely genuine, right?
  3. I already had some staining on one from Noodler's black, and had some shimmer left over in another one from Colorverse's Gluon, both inside the barrel where the small grooves are. What are the inks I should definitely stay away from if I don't want to permanently stain the barrel? Are there specific colors that stain more than others? What are the easy to wash out inks?
  4. Nibbler

    A Few Wee Cracks

    Firstly, I really, really love my two Ecos. I have other pens, but since I have owned one, it is a TWSBI that I usually I pick up. The 1.1 stub is amazing, but that is another thread. I have noticed a few small cracks on the barrel where the nib section fits in. I am a serial flusher - because I like to change colour (don't they just look wonderful in this pen?) - so I wonder if the removing of the nib/section has caused this? I bought the pen in June last year so about seven months old. Anyone else experienced this? What do we think? Ta a lot. David SaveSave
  5. besynes

    Twsbi Great Service

    Just more praise for the excellence of TWSBI service. My 580AL has been my everyday pen for over five years with NO issues. Love it. A while back I dropped it on the sidewalk, which cracked the barrel. I made an email request and TWSBI sent out a replacement barrel the next day. Only charged me $4.00. Wow. Thanks TWSBI!!!
  6. Hi everyone, I just got this pen in the mail. It seems to be working well, and looks great for the most part, but the barrel has this defect, an area of discoloring or different degree of translucency I tried to show in the pics below. Are two layers of the barrel becoming separated? Can this be fixed and can it get worse? Any advice is welcome. Thank you!
  7. probablyobsessedwithpenstuff

    Sheaffer Snorkel Crack

    I am trying to restore a sheaffer snorkel and after taking the barrel out of the untrasonic cleaner i noticed a very thin crack in the middle of the barrel. It runs about a quarter of the length. Iv done some research and i have a few questions about what to use and how to do it. Can i use super glue or any other sort of plastic glue to seal the crack or do i need something specific? all the repairs i have seen have been from the outside but there is suggestion that it will not look very good on a black barrel, could i try just applying it to the inside to let it seal the crack but not fill it as i think this may give a better result? unfortunately i cannot get a good photo of the crack but i will try again when i can get some better light
  8. Hello, I couldn't find anything on this topic in these forums... I'm using three different vintage Pelikan 400s (one of the "original" series and two of the 400nn series). I have noticed that the number of stripes may vary. For example, the original seires' 400 and a green striped 400nn have 24 stripes on the barrel, whereas the other 400nn (pictured left) has 30 stripes: I know celluloid patterns are supposed to vary, yet a clear difference in engineering and design can be seen in the image. Is there a known history of barrel design for the vintage 400 models (1951 - 1964)? I know these barrels were made from acrylic plastic on the inside and celluloid on the outside. I suspect there must be a history of design and engineering changes, which can help in dating the pens more precisely. I've searched the web as well as printed documents within my reach, yet couldn't find anything on this topic. Any information would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Regards, Stoen
  9. Arotaes

    Swapping Out Snorkel Guts

    Say I've got three Snorkels in front of me. One has a flawless Triumph 14k nib, but the body is busted. One has restored internals, but the nib is a 14k #5 and the body is an ugly grey. The final one has a beautiful burgundy body and the Sentinel cap, but the Triumph nib is busted and the internals aren't restored. How do I get the best parts of each into one nice frankenpen? (Repair newb)
  10. Good Day FPN, I'm finally back to the Fountain Pen club since my first encounter with fountain pens in Middle School. I really like the appearance of demonstrator fountain pens and so I got myself a Pilot CH 92 for the holiday. That said, I inked up my new arrived pen, without flush with water, with Diamine Majestic Purple. Dry ink formed on Day 2, but I've been using my pen everyday! I'm not sure how good my phone camera picks up the dried ink sitting on top of the piston sac (is that how you call it?) I'm worry a simple flush of water will not remove this dried ink and then it will take-up space for already a small barrel ink capacity. What happens if I change color with other brands of ink? Would other ink reacts to the dried ink inside the barrel? How should I approach this issue? I thought ink at this caliber, from Diamine, should be free of issues like this or is it normal? Considering the winter here rarely gets below 50F. I don't see any other way to explain ink dried up inside the barrel.. All helps are appreciated!
  11. MercianScribe

    Stupid Question?

    Maybe my basic physics is lacking... Dry heat works for separating sections and barrels and all kinds of other movements you may want to do. How does it work? If I apply heat to the join of a section and barrel, surely the section expands with the heat too, as well as the barrel threads if there are any, so why doesn't it become harder to get out of the barrel?
  12. Hi guys, Somehow I am into brown-color pens these days. So far I only have Parker Vacumatic with golden brown color. I can't decide on which brown pen I should get next. Would you mind showing me the brown-color pens you have? Thank you!!
  13. I finally got my 51(yay!) However, the pen was damaged during transist and there was a deep scratch on barrel which I removed using 1500 grit wet sand paper (read from a forum here) and now I have to remove microscratches from barrel and small scratch|es on cap.Can simichrome be used? And from where can I find replacements (s.s or lustraloy) caps? Thanks
  14. TheLeverist

    Crushed Barrel On Lever Filler

    Howdy Fellow Penners, it's me, the Leverist. (AKA Busy New Guy) I am in the throes of restoration right now, fixing a box of third-tier beauties, and was given yet another old clunker today. You can't beat free, but you can't always fix it either. It's a Scripto lever filler, hooded nib and steel cap, with a black barrel. The J bar is nice, the sac is due for replacement, and the end of the barrel is crushed. I don't have the pieces, they're long gone. It's someone's old junk pen. I was thinking about removing sac and J-bar, then making a new distal end with black epoxy putty and sanding it down smooth to form a tip. It won't be perfect but it will look better than the sad piece of pen carnage it is now. Also--this is cool. There's an imprint on the barrel reading "WHEN EMPTY LIFT LEVER ONCE, POINT DOWN, TO RELEASE INK RESERVE." Was there some sort of hidden reservoir in it? It looks like a plain old lever filler to me, though I haven't gotten the section off yet. Anyhow, see what you think. Sincerely The Leverist.
  15. I have an old Mont Blanc 344, used for many years, but now cracked right across the barrel more or less at the joint between the clear section and the lower part. I have tried cyanoacrylate, which failed after a while probably because it's not waterproof; recently tried solvent welding with acetone but no joy. Grateful for any repair suggestions. If it's a hopeless case, would be good to know which other models would have a compatible barrel, e.g. 24x, 14x, as they seem to be somewhat rare (and very expensive!) Also curious about its age.
  16. steinman

    Eversharp Skyline - Help

    I own an Eversharp Skyline which I inherited from my late brother. This pen is very dear to me. The Barrel has cracked and I am looking for a replacement in order to use the pen. I am a fountain pen user but this one is very important. The color is Burgundy or Plum. I am not sure. Will much appreciate help.
  17. blaze

    Diy Fountain Parts?

    Hi everyone, I am rather new to the world of calligraphy and all the bells and whistles that go with it. I have done tons of research almost a frightful amount. For this past Christmas I got a hinkler complete kit from the book store as a gift. Now these pens are alright and I know they are just cheap beginner pens, however they do have potential. I got to thinking about if it were possible to make/use parts from let's say pens from Staples, Walmart, etc to attach to the grip/nip piece. I have tried scouring the internet to no avail except a headache for too much information. I know silicone lube can make a seal. What I am looking for is any information on factory type/brand store named pens that have the internal threaded barrel which would possibly make up with my pen nibs. I do have four of them. I would prefer a clear barrel though in the end I am willing to try anything. Sincerely, Blaze BloodLily
  18. I have two vintage pens by Reform. One is the Astra model (steel nib) and the other is the Rekord 18 model (14k nib). Both are filled using an external piston rod that you screw into the back of the pen (in that respect, like an early prototype of CONID's filling system). The Astra works fine, but the Rekord needs a new cork. And there's my problem: I don't know which end of the pen I should be trying to open. I can't find anything on FPN that might help (only this report from 2014 of a self-destructing model). The section on the Astra can be unscrewed, which speaks for trying the section on the Rekord. That was my first thought. But nothing budges on the Rekord even after application of gentle heat, and I really don't want to break the pen in an uninformed effort to open the wrong end. On the other hand (end) the Rekord has a kind of 'blind cap' and it looks like there are gaps at the end of the barrel for a screwdriver. That makes it tempting to try to unscrew the back - but that could so easily be a recipe for a broken pen. Do you have experience with this model? Do you have any suggestions? Here are two photos that I hope will help. Apologies for the poor quality - I have only my phone camera at present. 1. The barrel (I've pushed the internal mechanism along the barrel to make both ends more visible) 2. Focus on the back
  19. Johnniejuk

    Help ! 51 Vacumatic Barrel Black

    Help ! Disassembling my Parker 51 double Jewel in black , and managed to crack the barrel . Does anyone possibly have a spare barrel . The one I have is marketd *6* so I assume 1946 . I may try to fill the crack , it's along the barrel and is about 2 " , although I don't hold out much hope , and would love to get it working again . Devastated !! What an idiot !! I'm sure there must be plenty of spare parts out there ? U.K. Based here .
  20. Ekajati

    Stained Campo Marzio Barrel

    Hi All I have a mini Campo Marzio fountain pen and the barrel is stained with Diamine Steel Blue from posting the cap etc. I have tried hand soap, shampoo, alcohol wipes, nothing will shift the marks. Are there any other possibilities? I'm anxious about damaging the enamel finish. Should I soak it overnight in soapy water or will that damage the metal? I tried asking CM but they aren't being very helpful. Many thanks!
  21. I need help. The barrel of my Nemosine Singularity is screwed on so tight I can't get it to budge. I've tried putting it under cold water, cold water and soap, paper towels, Clorox wipes, and even a little rubber shaped hand that we use to open jars. Nothing is helping this time so it is sitting in my drawer. I would like to change the cartridge eventually. At least cartridge is still full despite not in use for 1-3 months!
  22. I need help. The barrel of my Nemosine Singularity is screwed on so tight I can't get it to budge. I've tried putting it under cold water, cold water and soap, paper towels, Clorox wipes, and even a little rubber shaped hand that we use to open jars. Nothing is helping this time so it is sitting in my drawer. I would like to change the cartridge eventually. At least cartridge is still full despite not in use for 1-3 months!
  23. I recently had a Mont Blanc Diamond LeGrand fail. The pen was in my travel bag on a trip. When I opened the bag and checked my pen holder, I noticed the barrel had broken off at the end. Either the bag took a sharp impact or the barrel failed. I contacted a local Mont Blanc authorized dealer regarding repair and they indicated there was no option for repair. It was purchased in 2011 in the UK from Herrod's who is an authorized dealer and all of the paperwork, receipts, and boxes are still in my possession. The dealer indicated the pen did not have a repair option and I should look at a new pen. Seems crazy for an $600 pen. The diamond cap and other parts are all still intact. The barrel failed at the spring on the back end. I simply want to order a replacement barrel, not an entirely new pen. What are my options and any suggestions as to an Authorized Dealer who may be able to get parts? Thank you. Chris
  24. michaelggraham

    Pelikan M800 Barrel Repair?

    Who is the best to go to? Pelikan M800 (black) rolled off desk and snapped right at the threads on the barrel. Repair or replace? Thoughts? This is my favorite pen...depression setting in.
  25. So, this is my first fountain pen. I've been skimming through the threads on restoration, particularly the disassembly "how not to" threads. I don't want to make donor parts out of my first attempt. I am currently on day five or six attempting to part the section from the barrel so that I can see what's inside. I have been using the hair dryer method, but haven't had so much as a budge. I am very hesitant to apply too much torque. Judging by the grain in the body I can see ample opportunity for some sort of splitting. I am concerned that someone may have used shellac or <gasp!> glue, although I don't see any drips or residue. Here are a couple more photos. Any comments or advice?





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