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  1. I have been searching online for replacement erasers for a Montblanc Dumas mechanical pencil. No information found on Montblanc’s website. These are small diameter erasers! Any information on the eraser type for this particular pencil - Montblanc or other - will be greatly appreciated!
  2. This mechanical pencil has been quite popular lately.
  3. Astronymus

    Spacey Stationary Eraser Set Planets

    From the album: Photos misc

    © astronymus.net

  4. From the album: Photos misc

    © astronymus.net

  5. Astronymus

    Spacey Stationary Cork Rocket2

    From the album: Photos misc

    © astronymus.net

  6. Astronymus

    Spacey Stationary Cork Rocket 1

    From the album: Photos misc

    © astronymus.net

  7. Astronymus

    Cool Carrot

    From the album: Stuff by Astronymus

    When I saw a picture of a carrot with swagger by someone unknown on the internet I had to draw and paint it. This is the result: "Cool Carrot"

    © astronymus.net

  8. Astronymus

    How the "Cool Carrot" came to life

    From the album: Stuff by Astronymus

    When I saw a picture of a carrot with swagger photographed by someone unknown on the internet I had to draw and paint it. This is how "Cool Carrot" came to life.

    © astronymus.net

  9. Hello, I have a parker vacumatic twist type pencil that I recently received as part of a Vacumatic FP/Pencil set (though.. they don't look like an original set as the bands don't match). The body is in excellent condition but the mechanism doesn't seem to be working. I can twist it either direction without reaching any stop and I do not see the clutch or anything extend from the tip to grip the lead. I have tried slipping lead in it but do not feel anything in the barrel to clear out so I don't think it's a lead jam. I don't see a way to take the mechanism apart for further inspection. Does anyone have any experience with these and advice on how to try to get it working? Or is there some place to buy a replacement mechanism/send it for repair? I've attached some images of the pencil and mechanism.
  10. Please share any knowledge to help me date and identify this pencil.
  11. peroride

    pencil_mecha

    From the album: peroride_pen_pics

    mechanical pencils what else?
  12. Hi all, after I posted only yesterday about how I use my Parker Jotter pencil as an ‘out of office’/‘site visit’ tool because it is robust, it has today developed a problem. It is ‘jammed’ The lead that is currently in its mouth/tip/jaws has worn down. No surprises there. The surprise/problem is that, while there are several new/spare leads inside the pencil’s body, no more lead is coming out of the pencil. I have pressed the button on top of the pencil a huge number of times, holding its mouth/tip/jaws downwards, but no new lead is feeding through its actuator mechanism The actuator mechanism is making the same sound that it always has done, so I don’t think that the mechanism has broken. Having had no success using the conventional means of feeding the next lead, I removed them all except for one and repeatedly pushed the pencil’s actuator button again. That didn’t work either. I then tried to feed a new lead in to the mouth/tip/jaws directly (i.e. backwards, from the outside towards the inside) but have not been able to push the remnants of the previous lead back up in to the body of the pencil. Although I am male, I even resorted to digging out the instruction leaflet that came with the pencil and actually read it The leaflet only shows how to load new leads in to the top of the pencil. I do not have any pins or needles that are fine enough that I could push them up through the pencil’s mouth/tip/jaws to force the old lead out. So, do any of you out in FPN-land have any suggestions for how I can get the next lead to feed in to the pencil? If so, my thanks in advance for your answers. Cheers, M.
  13. My collection is still quite small. But I have some more vintage pencils on order. And my nightstand drawer and the closet shelf are getting to be too messy (and potentially damage-worthy on the pencils). I can't put them all into coffee mugs on my desk. I already have three mugs jam-packed with pencils and other writing utensils! I can't afford to do what I would like, which is to buy half a dozen Musgrave cedar boxes. So, what do you lot do? I am considering getting a few of these Container Store pencil boxes, for starters. https://www.containerstore.com/s/multisnap-office-storage-boxes/d?q=pencil+box+with+lid&productId=11010311 Any other suggestions are welcome.
  14. Hi Friends I recently purchased an interesting telescopic (3 pieces) propelling pencil with what is known as "magic action". The "magic" consists on the tip getting out when the pencil is extended and it is actually not working and I was curious to open the pencil to explore the mechanism and eventually fix it. If I manually push the tip in and out it moves freely, rotating the tip expels or retracts the led tip properly, that part works. Problem is: i did not manage to find a way to open the pencil. For sure it cannot screw from to front part (did try hard). The bigger part rotates freely, the smaller and intermediate part instead do not rotate on each other, but I did not force. Anybody has any clue how to make progresses on this tiny pencil? Also I would appreciate some indication on which model it can be and maker. There are no hallmarks and no writings at all. Searching online I could not find same representations, besides the below link which shows an identical silver version market Perry & Co on the tip. https://www.uppop.top/antique-mechanical-propelling-pencil-perrys-magic-action-telescopic-chatalaine-p-11058.html See attached pictures for my pencil, shortened, expanded and focus on tip. Thanks!
  15. I managed to acquire this very peculiar design sketch pencil, which had been accidentally labeled as a pen when sold. Someone had put a D1 refill inside it... which actually worked. But clearly, the clutch is of the pencil variety. It was badly tarnished, but cleaned up nicely. It could use a good buffing to take out some light surface scratches. The "bullet" shape is magnificent. What's really quite interesting is the clip. It's spring loaded and you pull down on it to release the clutch. Very heavy! I'm guessing it's not completely solid silver and that it must have a metal alloy core. But there's no apparent way to disassemble it. There's a seam, showing that there's two "halves" but it's bonded together. The other curiosity is that this pencil is branded for a pharmaceutical product by Bristol Myers Squibb--PLAVIX. It's engraved in precisely the font and design for that product, which even includes the 3 rows of dots to the left of the "I". Now obviously BMS didn't make this pencil. I'm guessing it was purchased from a luxury gift house that made a provision for engraving. But this is obviously not your typical kind of engraving (like an employee name), given the complexity. Photo before the pencil was cleaned up: If anyone here is familiar with this particular pencil or may have an idea of what company gift supplier may have produced it, please let me know. Thanks!
  16. Hey guys! During my recent travels to Japan, i found a unique wooden fountain pen case from Storio. I'd never heard of the brand before but the moment i saw the case i fell in love with the way it looked and felt, so I just had to get one! I thought I'd just shed some light on this relatively unknown brand, as i think this case is beautiful and worth every penny. It looks professional and sleek/ stealthy, yet is interesting enough to get anyone who lays eyes on it to start a conversation about it! If you guys are interested, i made a video review about it! Theres also a link to where to get one if youre interested! Let me know if you guys have any questions or comments about it! Edit; There seems to be an issue with the audio. I will update the post when i reupload a new one! Edit 2; Audio issue has been resolved!
  17. Checklist

    Parker Classic Pencil Problems

    I have a Parker Classic Flighter mechanical pencil that I've been using off and on for several years. For some reason, I cannot seem to reload the pencil right. On this site, there are several posts that are very helpful in reloading a twist-top Parker pencil through the tip: fully extend the mechanism to clear the pencil, insert lead, slowly retract, and apply pressure to seat the lead in the holder. However, when I try this, I cannot get the lead (0.9 mm) to stay in; it will retract, but as soon as I start writing again, the lead falls out. It's not breaking; there are no pieces left inside, and the ends of the lead are still smooth. Found some older 0.9 mm leads, and they seem to work better. Are all 0.9 mms not interchangeable? Am I doing something else wrong?
  18. A friend of mine has a nice Parker Duofold mechanical pencil, made around 1950. He is about to run out of leads. My calipers measure the existing leads at 1/20 inch, 0.05 inch. Does anyone know where Imperial leads are available? The 1.18 mm metrical gauge will work at a pinch, but the real thing would be preferable. Thanks! Peter
  19. Because I've been trying a variety of pencils lately for drawing, I recently bought these "woodless" ones to try out, thinking they might be good for shading, at least. Woodless in this case doesn't mean mechanical, I have plenty of those, or clutch pencils, I have some of those, too, with different lead sizes. These are just big hunks of graphite, partly coated with lacquer. You're supposed to be able to sharpen them by normal methods, knife, sanding block, or sharpener. I've been trying them out along with my wood pencils for some drawing. They are pretty good for shading, or for when I want a dull point. The "EE" designation for the darkest lead is a bit of an odd one. After a little internet searching, it appears that it was an equivalent of 8B used by some pencil manufacturers, although in this set, it's the grade after 8B. In any case, it's just another extra dark lead. Anyway, I just thought this was interesting. I'm not making any particular recommendation for or against them, but thought I'd see if anyone else uses them.
  20. I'm wondering if I should buy a 0.2mm or 0.3mm (or even 0.5mm) Mechanical Pencil for practicing Spencerian Script... It is suggested in several places that when practicing Spencerian Script I should use a writing utensil that produces as thin a line as possible. However, I'm wondering if 0.2mm or even 0.3mm lines are simply too thin? By the way, if anyone was wondering, this is the pencil I'm going to purchase: https://www.amazon.com/Pentel-Mechanical-Pencil-ORENZ-PP3003/dp/B06VWNYHY3?th=1 The reason I'm using a pencil and not a pen is because I want to use super cheap paper and I don't want to get any feathering, bleed-through, etc. What do you guys think?
  21. xgamerms999

    Help With Cross Pen/pencil Set 6601

    I was just given a set of these by my grandma, they were my grandpa's, but I don't have the manual, so I was wondering if you guys could help me out. Doing a google search only resulted in sales links, and I want to know if/where I can buy replacement ink, and how to do it, and the same with the lead for the pencil. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  22. RegDiggins

    Ellipse Mechanical Pencil

    I recently posted on pen history forum to see if anyone could give me production figures on the Ellipse mechanical pencil, without much success. I wonder if the MP collectors on this Parker forum might be better informed. According to the Parker pen collector site this MP was only made for 12 months from 2001 until it was discontinued with the rest of the Ellipse range in 2002. I assume the production numbers would be quite small which may account for the ludicrously high prices which are being asked for this pencil. Are there any records of production from Meru for this period ???
  23. Hello, new member here. Although I do use fountain pens regularly, mainly a Lamy 2000 with a Fine nib, I'm more fond of mechanical pencils, specially the ones with interesting mechanisms and "quirks and features" as Doug DeMuro would say. I'll start uploading here if anyone's interested, and, if you'd like to see more photos, I post regularly on my Instagram focused on stationery (@mchpncl). Here's my beat up 800. I've been using it on a daily basis for around 4 years now, and I'm always carrying it in my pocket. I hope you guys enjoy the macro photos!
  24. TheDutchGuy

    My First 51 Experience

    A couple of weeks ago I spotted a lovely burgundy vintage Sheaffer on the website of a well-known and reputable British vintage pens dealer, at a very attractive price. I ordered the pen, but as fate would have it, the dealer sent me an email that upon final inspection he'd found a hairline crack in the section, so the deal was off. We corresponded for a bit and I shared my small collection of vintage pens with him and inquired what he felt was needed 'to complete my education'. Among the pens he kindly suggested was the Parker 51. I've never been a Parker fan, based on looks that I don't care for, bad associations with my 70s/80s school days and less-than-stellar impressions left by modern Parker pens since the '90s or so. I researched the 51 a bit online, on FPN and in Andreas Lambrou's book and took the plunge. I then spent a few days agonizing over which one to buy. The dealer in question has a large number of them, all fully serviced and restored, with a wide variety of nib-, colour- and era-choices. He suggested a wonderful burgundy oblique italic because it was in great shape and a real writer's pen. I hesitated, because I'd prefer to try a nib like that before I buy. In the end, primarily based on the wonderful writing samples that were included along with photographs of the pens, I chose this: Boxed, with matching mechanical pencil, fully serviced and at a very good price. There are fancier colours for this pen, but I always force myself to make choices based on writing, not aesthetics. The writing sample of this pen just seemed to match my style of writing. Once it arrived, I decided to ink it up with a dark ink (I'm partial to filling pens with ink of the same colour as the pen). I'm very impressed with the quality of this pen. They just don't make 'em like this anymore. I don't find the design to be particularly attractive, but it does have a certain Sputnik-age late'40s/early-'50s charm. It must have been quite modern at the time. Ergonomically, it's wonderful. It just melts into my hand. The nib is a medium. It's smooth and wet, but not sterile. There's texture, some subtle feedback. There's not much character in the writing, as line width is identical in all directions. The wetness of the pen prevents shading, but there is some to be seen. As a writing machine, this pen is marvellous. I can do long sessions with it without any fatigue. It won't make me forget my '59 Sheaffer PFM-III, though. That pen has subtle variations in line width, offers more shading, has slightly more pleasant feedback and is a stunner to look at. As far as black cigars go... wow.
  25. Hi, As I wrote in the title, how hard would it be to convert a Vector pencil into a ballpoint? There's one on ebay that I like, but I would like to know if it's possible and how to go about it. Thanks! Alex





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