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  1. AidenMark

    Kaweco Dia2 Converter

    Which converter fits the Kaweco Dia2 pen (with the standard Bock 060 nib unit)? Kaweco have 3 types on their site - mini for the Sport, squeeze and standard. I bought a standard Kaweco converter but it doesn't remotely fit the pen - it won't even fit in the metal base of the section. Other converters in my possession don't fit either. I've seen this asked a few times but couldn't find it answered.
  2. Some people can wield a big, fat stub and get amazing results. Not me. I'm a sloppy writer and still learning basic penmanship. I rotate my pens and stubs don't like that. I write fast, and stubs don't always forgive me for it. Just for fun, I made a quick comparison of the stubs that I have in my collection at the moment. ^---normal writing speed at left, slow in the middle, fast at right The TWSBI 1.1 stub I've personally got three of those, in two pens: the Eco and the Go. One is nice (in the Eco), one is okay (in the Go), one is sharp, scratchy, dry, unusable and out of rotation. They're the only ones in this comparison that have a small amount of bounce and they're not very sensitive to rotation (which is good news for me). They're dry-ish when writing at speed, as can be seen in the writing sample. In terms of line thickness, both their vertical and their horizontal strokes are the widest of the 1.1 nibs in this comparison. Crispness is OK but not exceptional. No hard starts (good). No railroads (good). Pens: TWSBI Eco with 1:1 mixture of J. Herbin Rouge Caroubier and Diamine Sunshine Yellow and TWSBI Go with Noodler's Burgundy. Verdict: a nice, all-round, rather forgiving stub. The Lamy 1.1 italic Lamy offers cheap 1.1, 1.5 and 1.9 replacement nibs that you can slide on to your Safaris and such. I can't even wield a 1.5 (see below under Kaweco) and therefore a 1.9 is way out of my league, so I bought the 1.1. This nib, which is an italic, offers you a hard deal: absolutely wonderful crispness at the cost of rotation sensitivity and scratchiness. I love the look of the text on paper, it's so nice, so crisp, so disctinctive... But with my unsteady hand, I can only use it with pleasure when writing slow. At normal writing speeds, I can tolerate it. When writing fast, it feels like an abomination. This nib could be a true gift to people who have a steady hand and good penmanship. No hard starts (good). No railroads (good). Pen: Lamy ABC with Lamy Blue ink, but it will also fit the Safari and some other Lamy pens (and supposedly even a Platinum Preppy!) Verdict: amazing crispness at the cost of forgiveness... Choose, because you can't have your cake and eat it too. Kaweco #2 1.1 stub One of the many charms of the Kaweco family is that the Liliput, the Sport, the Dia2 and the Special all sport the same #2 screw-in nib/feed collar, so instead of buying a dedicated pen for each nib size you can buy one nice pen and swab nibs in under 60 seconds. I'm not exaggerating: pull out the converter, unscrew the nib/feed collar, screw in the new one, pop in the converter, prime the feed and you're off to the races. Among other models I have a Dia2, which in my opinion is one of the best modern pens being sold today around its price point, and I've got several nibs to use with it, including the 1.1 stub. Its line width is slightly less than that of the TWSBI 1.1, in both directions. It's also slightly more crisp than the TWSBI, which I like, especially since this crispness does not come at the expense of smoothness or rotation sensitivity. Compared to the Lamy, the downstroke is slightly wider and the sidestroke slightly more thin. This is a nib that offers both smoothness and good crispness (though nothing near the exceptional crispness of the Lamy). In fact, it's smoothness is incredible and needs to be felt to be believed. Performance is flawless: it always starts, it doesn't railroad. The TWSBI stub seems to offer more shading, though. Pen: Kaweco Dia2 GT with Iroshizuku Shin-Kai. Verdict: an amazingly smooth and forgiving stub without sacrificing too much crispness, solid performance, a good mix of qualities and clearly a notch above the TWSBI. Kaweco #2 1.5 stub This stub matches the smoothness of its smaller cousin, but that's where the similarities end. Perhaps it's me; perhaps I'm not ready to play with the grown-ups yet. After all, I also couldn't really befriend the Pineider La Grande Bellezo stub, nor the Leonardo 1.5 stub. To me, 1.5 feels as wide as the Grand Canyon and I really struggle to get something nice out of it. This Kaweco 1.5 is no exception to that, despite its amazing smoothness. Personal shortcomings aside, I do notice less crispness in the lines (the worst of this sample) and it's a severe hard-starter. To be specific, after capping the pen and putting it away, it doesn't write when you want to continue, especially on smooth paper. Not just on downstrokes either, it just doesn't write at all after a pauze and takes quite some effort to get going again. In terms of line width, this stub is wide enough to make standard line spacing in a notebook too small (in this case an Oxford 90 g/m^2 notebook with 8 mm line spacing). This is one big nib and it requires lots of space - that's how it was designed, so no criticism there. Pen: Kaweco Dia2 GT with Iroshizuku Shin-Kai. Verdict: very smooth and forgiving stub, but at the expense of crispness (at least when writing at normal and fast speeds). Obnoxious hard-starter, prefers rough paper. Should not be confined to the limitations of ordinary notebooks - this nib really wants to do calligraphy. The outsider: 1948 Onoto 5601 with #3 ST nib I added this Onoto for the sake of reference and comparison, not as a contender. This is a wonderful, narrow stub and they just don't seem to make 'em like that anymore. This is one of the few stubs that make me forget about the pen so that i can just focus on writing. Ink: J. Herbin Lierre Sauvage, Summary: Those who can handle the Lamy 1.1 italic will be highly rewarded by its amazing crispness. As an all-round, forgiving, wonderfully smooth steel stub that does not sacrifice much in terms of crispness, Kaweco's 1.1 is a thing of beauty and as such is the overall "winner". The TWSBI 1.1 is a solid all-round stub that lacks some of the finesse and smoothness of the Kaweco 1.1. The Kaweco 1.5 might be the ticket for those who require a really smooth nib for calligraphy purposes. (When I find the ultimate stub for me, I'll let you know. At the moment the chase seems to be even better than the catch.) EDIT: corrected the text about the Lamy 1.1, which is an italic.
  3. Hi everyone, It's great to be part of this fountain pen community. I rediscovered my love and passion for fountain pens recently. Coincidentally, I got my first pocket pen (Kaweco Sport, Bordeaux, medium nib) with Kaweco Caramel Brown ink cartridges and a mini piston converter today. And I must say that I am loving the experience of writing with it. It has an old world charm to it, which is accentuated by the colour, golden nib and clip, not to mention the unique design and utility. I am sure this is not my last Kaweco Sport. I may consider getting a Brass Sport later. But, I guess a Sailor Pro Gear Slim isn't very far in the future. I tend to gravitate towards retro and vintage stuff. Looking forward to some great conversations here.😊 Cheers! Ajay
  4. I have been collecting writing instruments for a few decades and currently have about 300 of them in my collection. They are mostly vintage, and a few new ones. I try to follow technical evolution as themes of my collection such as filling mechanisms, nib characteristics, materials, etc. I recently became interested in pocket fountain pens and I really don`t have much knowledge about them, so I propose to start with what I know and perhaps members of the community can contribute. There are examples of writing instruments of the Victorian Era, that were meant to carry in pockets or pouches, such as telescopic mechanical pencils, dip pens or combination instruments. At the turn of the Century Safety fountain pens came about, in an attempt to prevent ink spillage when carried in a pocket or pouch. For the most part, these pens were of large size for a pocket. For the purpose of this discussion, I would like to propose the following definition. A pocket fountain pen is one that is short enough to fit in a pocket comfortably and by some means it is enlarged to become comfortable for writing. To my knowledge, there are to methods to achieve this purpose. 1 - Pens with a short barrel and long cap and long section. The threads of clutch ring where the cap engages with the barrel is at the end of the long section, so when capped they are short enough to pocket and when posted they become long enough to fit in the hand. 2 - Telescoping fountain pens. The first example of short barrel and long cap that I am aware of is the Kaweco Sport, that appeared in this format in the 1930's as a piston filled fountain pen with a matching mechanical pencil. Since the pencil doesn't require a cap, the concept doesn't apply to it and it ends up being just a short pencil. This pen is 4" capped and 5.5" posted. In the 1960's in Japan Sailor Pilot and Platinum started offering beautiful renditions of short / long fountain pens. The Japanese development of these pens is covered in depth in Richard Binder's e-book Japanese Pocket Pens. Below I show a Pilot Elite and a Pilot MYU from my collection. While telescopic dip pens where common in the late 19th Century, the first telescopic I am aware of is the Pilot telescopic fountain pen in the 1960's. There are probably earlier ones. In the mid 2000's, rOtring came out with telescoping fountain pens, mechanical pencils and ballpoints, the model Esprit Mini, which is currently produced by Parker. I am sure there is much more to this story than what I was able to present here.
  5. Here I present to you all a vintage mid 1950's MAHAG piston filler by Kaweco FOA , thanks to all the vintage Volkswagen fan over at multiple automotive online groups and forums who answer my questions and give info For a bit of History , MAHAG is a major automotive dealer in Germany starting out in 1930's and still around today, after the war they center all theirs on Volkswagen and added Porsche. Just as any other of such they give company branded merchandise to customers and also employees. This pen as far as info and speculation goes ( according to the Volkswagen fans ) was only given to priced customers who purchase up market model like the Karmann Ghia, Porsche or the full option Beetle or the famed 23 windows bus and also likely to distinguished employees. It's actually a rare item accordingly. A fascinating and interesting piece of automotive and fountain pen memorabilia. This pen was OEM manufactured by Kaweco and everything tells , the piston mechanism had the distinctive pin through the knob construction and the whole pen exhibit a variety of the Sport model's character. It had the model 12's piston mechanism but it's got the early post war 112 construction of mix celluloid + ebonite BHR. It had a Bock 14C gold nib that is fine and surprisingly soft and almost full flex. With an all round cap with the MAHAG logo Technicals and restoration info on coming post
  6. ethernautrix

    OOPSY...

    As mentioned in another thread -- -- the parcel my brother'd sent me from the States arrived after a little more than a month in transit yesterday. At around 11:20. I put away the notebooks and checked out the two gel pens and gel-pen refills and finally came to the Kaweco M nib. I pulled out my Kaweco Special, took out its EF nib, and installed the M nib. Inked up the pen. Noodler's Black, duh. Wow. What a wet nib! Much more like a B line, or maybe M lines have always been so fat. Set the pen aside, cos I had changed the ink in a Pilot 823 (PO), from Pilot Blue-Black to KWZi Niebieski galusowy #3, tra la la... la la la... picked up the Kaweco Special, and... fumble-fingers dropped it straight down onto the floor. It was 14:42. I couldn't help but laugh. Here, it'd taken this nib over a month to reach me (and I could have ordered one more cheaply from one of my favorite "local" (in Kraków) pen shops) and not even two-and-a-half hours later, I'd turned it into...hey, that looks like a PO nib! Hahahahaha. I wasn't crazy about the M nib and had been thinking of modifying it (by a professional), and I feel sooooo lucky that it was the Kaweco that I'd fumbled and not the Pilot 823. Or the Nakaya Piccolo (also on the table at the time). I took the nib out of the Special and bent it back about halfway before sticking it into an AL Sport, for further testing. It still looks like a PO nib and writes with a tiny bit of scratching, nothing a little more tweaking couldn't fix. Probably. So... what have y'all dropped lately?
  7. Ever since I was (very kindly) given a Kaweco Sport I've had nothing but problems: the pen regurgitates big blobs of inks out of the blue, the gold plating was gone after the first swiping with tissue paper, but mostly the converters have been terrible: tried Kaweco's original, sad squeeze type, Monteverde's alternative, finally got Kaweco's new mini converter, and... You get ink bubbles outside the converter and ink on the stalk as you turn or pull it up to suck ink in. The whole thing is so tiny you need to almost put your fingers inside the ink bottle. I give up, I've learned to have patience with fountain pens but this is officially my nightmare pen. I hope everyone that likes Kaweco keeps enjoying them, anyone else looking for a pen... Caveat emptor.
  8. ausserirdischesindgesund

    Three reds by the mysterious Austrian OEM

    As a pen (and ink) afficinado that lives in Austria, it amazes me, that so many inks are made locally here, even though there is basically no high quality fountain pen and ink production by Austrian brands. There are cheap (and somewhat ugly in my opinion) "Jolly" branded school pens, and the quite nifty Jolly branded ink cartridges (they fit international standard on one end, Lamy on the other), but really nothing worth mentioning on this forum. And then there ist the "mysterious Austrian OEM producer" that does at least ink for: Montblanc Kaweco Monteverde (i am almost sure, I have thrown away the packaging though) Online and probably others. I suspect that this manufacturer ist basically the one company that in the last 30 years has consolidated all Austrian stationery producers(with brands JOLLY, SAX, Cretacolor and BIBA). Again the ink/fountain pen production was never worth mentioning, but the predecessors to that corporation had a centuries long tradition in producing pencils, and their pencils are still very good today (Jolly is a brand aimed at the school market, but their coloured pencils are very good, as are the "Cretacolor" branded artist pencils). I have no evidence to confirm that this is the producer of above OEM inks, would love to hear from anybody who knows more In my much too large collection of inks there are several of these Austrian inks mentioned above, today I swabbed three reds, because I've just bought Kaweco Ruby Red (mainly because of the nice new bottle). Another, probably less known German brand is "Online", their red is called Ruby too, and I was wondering if it is the same, as I suspected could be the case with "Monteverde Valentine Red". As you can see, Kaweco and Online/Monteverde are actually quite a bit different. Monteverde *might* be just a bit watered down Online ink or batch variation, or just an ever so slight variation. I am actually surprised by Online Ruby being such a strong true red, without any hint of blueish or yellowish cast. Is Montblanc red still "Made in Austria", has anybody made comparisons to one of the inks mentioned above? None of these inks is very cheap (don't know about Monteverde, it was expensive to me mainly because of shipping), most of them are quite saturated (as is e.g. Montblanc royal blue). Somehow I am phantasizing about sneaking into the Sachs&Brevillier factory building, discovering lots of ink secrets Does anybody here have more information about that mysterious producer? Should I buy Montblanc Modena red to compare I think the new Kaweco bottle (it is basically a jam or marmalade bottle with its twist off cap) is great BTW, it brings ink price somewhat down too. It is 50ml now, instead of 30ml before at the same price. a nice weekend to all ink-afficionados, Ralph
  9. mehandiratta

    Show Us Your Kaweco

    I thought Kaweco is one of the oldest pen brands from Germany and it needs the thread where people can show of their Kaweco instruments. So hereby I request all to show us their Kawecos. Would love to know a lot about vintage ones too.
  10. This is a review for Kaweco Caramel Brown ink. This is the latest shade of brown from Kaweco. The previous brown was called Earth Brown and it's darker. You might still find some older bottles of Kaweco Earth Brown ink and the older ink boxes are a darker brown colour. You can tell if you have one of the newest bottles because the name of the ink is now printed on the box. It's also on the cartridge packs and Kaweco branding is now on each cartridge. This is a pretty shade of brown ink. It's not too dark, or almost black and I like it for that. However, I found it quite dry in the Kaweco Dia2 pen that I tested it with, despite the fact that I left the cartridge in the pen for a few days to ensure that the feed was saturated enough. It felt dryer to write with than the Midnight Blue and Ruby Red inks that I have already reviewed from Kaweco. You might still find some older bottles of Kaweco Earth brown ink. The inks are a fairly similar colour. This ink isn't waterproof, and it doesn't stain fingers. Kaweco ink is made in Germany. It is available in 30ml bottles or packs containing 6 standard international sized cartridges.
  11. Hi, Is anyone able to get the pen mentioned in the title? If so, I would greatly appreciate it and I will pay for the cost and shipping, and any extra cost towards the effort made to find it. I live in New York. Regards. Note 1: Kaweco now makes this AL sport fountain pen in a "stonewashed" blue color, which is not as distinctive as their matte blue version. Note 2: A used one in very good condition is also an alternative if finding a new one is impossible. Note 3: An example of what it looks like: https://www.jetpens.com/Kaweco-AL-Sport-Fountain-Pen-Matte-Blue-Extra-Fine-Nib/pd/9493
  12. Hi, I am a new member of the forum, I joined because I thought I could find some help regarding my post below. The link should take you to my original post. Basically, I have been looking for a specific Kaweco AL Sport that is no longer produced, with no success. I am hoping there is still a possibility of finding it. Many thanks... https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/358638-looking-for-kaweco-al-sport-fountain-pen-in-matte-blue/
  13. I was wondering if I could see your kaweco double broad nibs? I’m a little worried that I got a fake one 😕 my double broad has deeper etching and slightly wider design than that of my EF (which came from germany). Also, the etching it slight bronzed. Doesnt show in picture but noticeable when observed keenly in person. Also, it took me 30 mins for it to write. Then I have to squeeze the catridge everytime I want to use it. Never had a problem with my other kawecos.
  14. How long does it take for the Kaweco fountain pens to ink the first time? I inserted the cartridge that goes with it but its not writing The ink in the cartridge is not dry. I have shaken the pen and everything and no ink is coming out. Im leaving it pointed down waiting for the ink. I'm using a double broad nib.
  15. InkShift - Kaweco Ruby Red to Sunrise Orange Just for the fun of it, I decided to do a project exploring what happens when you move progressively from one ink colour to another. For now, I'm restricting myself to inks from the same manufacturer - mainly to avoid nasty chemical surprises. My hope is that some of these "inkshifts" result in interesting colours that I can use to write/draw with. And besides... it's just fun to watch one ink colour morph into another one. Ruby Red and Sunrise Orange are regular Kaweco inks, but not especially interesting. The Ruby Red is definitely not to my taste, and the Sunrise Orange is just plain orange... I don't see the soft beauty of a sunrise in this colour. But maybe there might be some interesting combinations in the mix, maybe even a fairly decent red-orange. Who knows... only one way to find out, and that is to do the inkshift experiment. In the span between the two starting inks more interesting colours appear, that beat the original versions (my personal opinion). The ones that I liked the most are the following two: The first one is a soft orange-red, the other a decent sunset orange. I prefer these mixes to the original Kaweco inks, and will use them instead. I continue to enjoy these ink morphing experiments. Fun adventures in ink-land, and more often than not you are rewarded with a mix that beats the original inks. Fun guaranteed!
  16. Penspotting

    Kaweco Sport

    From the album: Penimations

    © penspotting

  17. Hi FPN, A little while ago, I managed a great deal on a vintage Kaweco V12 and 619 set from around 1965. It was a bit of a risk, bought it on eBay with only one picture so didn't really know what condition it was in. Fortunately, it arrived and when I started to clean it and take it apart it turned out to be in VERY good condition and needing nothing other than a cleaning and some silicon grease. I've done a review of the pens here. However, between winning the auction and getting the pen, I was looking online on how to restore them, I was worried it had a cork piston seal, I couldn't find much. When I couldn't find one, I thought I would take some pictures of the steps as I did it to my new pen, so here's a quite guide on how to take apart a Kaweco V12 and what the parts look like. To start things off, here's a picture of the pens and the case as they arrived. The first thing I did was soak the pen in some deionized water for a few hours, pulling it out of the water to let the water inside the pen drain out and then refill the pen. This washed out virtually all of the ink, which turned the water blue likely meaning it was a washable blue ink that was in it. After the water coming out of the pen stayed clear, I used some nylon pliers to pull out the nib and feed from the pen, which come out as shown below. They just pull straight out, if they don't come out easily, I'd suggest soaking in some soapy water maybe then applying a little dry heat (not too much, the pen is celluloid). The nib may come out by itself without the feed, if that happens just pull the feed out with some rubber tipped pliers. Once removed, this is what the nib and feed look like. They can/should be soaked by themselves in clean water just to make sure everything comes off them, could even give them a gentle brush with a toothbrush to make sure. While I was soaking the nib unit, I started on the piston. On the pen, the seal and piston had come loose from the nob and twisting the nob at the back didn't do anything to the piston, which had me a little worried. When I was looking at the threads, i thought they looked a lot like the threads on a Parker Vacuumatic, which I have the tools to remove. So I grabbed that and it was a match. However, as soon as the unit started to unscrew, I realized that using section pliers are a better option. You can see from the photo below, that the piston unscrews from the barrel of the pen at the metal o-ring rather than at the nob. This means that the piston forms part of the barrel at the top of the pen. This makes using section pliers on the back end of the pen the best option for removing it. My pen didn't have any shellac, but I can see some pens might, so not a bad idea to apply a little dry heat, again, not too much. (this photo is actually from putting the pen back together, that's why the piston isn't sitting in the ink window). Once out, I could see why the piston had come loose from the nob. It's different from the TWSBI piston units as there's a screw that's attached to the nob which fits into a threaded hole inside the piston. There is a square hole in the nob piece which the piston fits into to stop it from rotating and the nob turns a screw which extends or retracts the piston. The below shows the pen fully disassembled. To reassemble the pen, I started with the piston. I put silicon grease on the seal to fill the notch and all along the sides of the seal. I also put grease into the hole in the nob unit, on the outside of the piston shaft, and on the threads that screw into the barrel. I then put the piston into the nob unit and fully retracted the piston. I then screwed the piston unit into the barrel of the pen. I only finger tightened the piston unit as I didn't want to crack the barrel of the pen and was confident it wasn't going to come loose. I wouldn't recommend using section pliers to screw it in as you might over tighten and crack the barrel. You could apply some shellac to the threads to keep it in place, but I didn't want to and the fit is good enough on my pen that I wasn't too worried. The pen is much easier to thoroughly clean if I can remove the piston. It was then just a matter of putting the nib back onto the feed and sliding it into the pen. It goes in smoothly and there is a final little bump you can feel it go over telling you it's in there securely. Because of how the nib fits onto the section, it's very difficult for it to be misaligned, but always worth a check as once on the pen it's difficult. After putting it all back together I tested the piston with some water and it worked great, so inked it up and gave it a test and been very happy ever since. For the 619 ballpoint, the pen came with a refill in it, fortunately, but it had long dried out. I was able to find out that the Schneider 75M refills fit the pen and ordered one black and one blue. To remove the refill, the front of the pen simply unscrews. As you might be able to tell in that photo, the Schneider refills are a little too long for the pen and need to be cut down slightly. I used the refill that came in the pen to get the correct size, unfortunately I don't know the length of what I cut off, but it's around a half inch I think. There was a bit of foam in the piece of the refill that I had to cut off, so I pushed it out and put it back into the back end of the refill to stop it from drying out. I then rounded off the corners a bit and put it into the pen. Worked great and writes very well. The click mechanism is a bit unique. To extend the pen, you push the button down halfway and it will stay there with the pen extended for use. To retract it, push the button the rest of the way and it will go back in. This means if you push the button all the way down in one go, it will extend then retract the pen in one push. This took me a couple of tries to figure out and I think would catch your typical ballpoint user off guard, they are likely to think it broken so if you let someone borrow the pen, best to explain. You can see in the below, the pen extended and the button half pushed. Hope that was useful to someone and if you get a chance to get one of these pens, I'd highly recommend it, they look to be very low maintenance and rather easy to restore if there aren't any broken pieces. Again, you can read my review of the two pens here.
  18. InkShift - Kaweco Palm Green to Royal Blue Just for the fun of it, I decided to do a project exploring what happens when you move progressively from one ink colour to another. For now, I'm restricting myself to inks from the same manufacturer - mainly to avoid nasty chemical surprises. My hope is that some of these "inkshifts" result in interesting colours that I can use to write/draw with. And besides... it's just fun to watch one ink colour morph into another one. Palm Green and Royal Blue are regular Kaweco inks, but not especially interesting. As far as I know, Kaweco has no teal inks in its line, so I decided to explore if a decent teal is in the mix. Green inks appear to be very dominant ones, so I explored on the blue side of the spectrum. Some interesting combinations arise, certainly more interesting than the plain ink versions I started with. In the span between the two starting inks, some interesting colours can be found. My personal favourites are:1 part Palm Green, 7 parts Royal Blue : a Prussian Blue style colour1 part Palm Green, 4 parts Royal Blue : a blue-leaning tealI really enjoy these ink morphing experiments, the results are often surprising and a lot more interesting than the original inks. Loads of fun! Doing an inkshift is easy. All it takes is a couple of pipettes, some receptacles, Q-tips and a fountain pen. And a couple of hours of free quality time to run the mixing experiment. You should try it... a fun experience.
  19. eclectic2316

    Cheers From New Hampshire

    Hello from the "Live Free or Die" state (New Hampshire), Older professional guy who is a fountain pen user. Interested in pens that write immediately and smoothly. So far, Kaweco and platinum preppy, ( yes, I mean it), fit the bill. Am wondering if anyone has tried the Visconti Homo Sapiens Magma fountain pen , to which I am very attracted? Am willing to be convinced the pen is worth the seemingly high price. Am also wondering if anyone has written with both Noodler's legal blue and Noodler's legal lapis inks, and, whether and why one is preferred over the other Any thoughts you may have would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Kind regards, Henry
  20. This pen arrived today, and I was pleased to find it a much lighter blue than the royal blue I had been expecting. Its verging on an ice blue. Is this a change, or have all the photos Ive seen of this pen misrepresented the colour? Even this picture makes it look several shades darker and more vivid than it really is.
  21. http://imageshack.com/a/img538/6158/11Pc6j.jpg Founded in Heidelberg in 1883, as Heidelberger Federhalterfabrik, the company started by producing a modest range of wooden dip pens. The Kaweco brand name, originally developed as a model name and coined after Koch, Weber & Company, the owners, was adopted as the company name in the early 1900’s. By the 1930’s over 600 staff were producing a huge array of fountain pens and pencils, including the popular Sport range of pocket pens. The company's survived almost one hundred years but in 1980 its operations were closed. Happily that wasn't the end of the brand. Horst Gutberlet - owner of H&M Gutberlet GmbH and pen enthusiast and his son Michael were able to but the brand name in 1994. They started working on reviving the brand. It took many years of dedicated work. The brand was initially distributed by Diplomat however over the years their line-up has extended and they were able to create their own international network of distributors. As with most big dreams the realisation took many years of dedicated work. The Kaweco brand was initially distributed by Diplomat. Over the years, the model line-up has expanded and Kaweco has created their own international network of distributors. http://imageshack.com/a/img661/7232/sBiTQO.jpg Today Kaweco offers wide variety of fountain pens and accessories. They have eight inks in their line-up. I don't know makes their inks, however I've read somewhere it was Dr. Pflug from Aratrum (creator of Caran d'Ache inks). If anyone has some data on this topic, I'd like to learn it Anyway the inks are sold in generic glass bottles (30 ml) and their price is steep. The inks are rather good but other premium inks offer interesting bottles. Here the bottle is boring, the price is high. But let's take a look at the colors: Karamel Braun (Caramel Brown) Konigsblau (Royal Blue) Mittertnachtsblau (Midnight Blue) Palmen Grun (Palm Green) Paradies Blau (Paradise Blue) Perlen Schwarz (Pearl Black) Rubinrot (Ruby Red) Sommer Lila (Summer Burple)First, I'll take a look at Sommerlila (a question for german speakers - I've found the names written together - Sommerlila or separateluy - Sommer Lila, which one is correct?). I enjoy the color - it's dusty and muted. Rather complex shade of purple that flows well and has reasonable drying time. Ink Splash http://imageshack.com/a/img911/5002/p8SkPH.jpg Drops of ink on kitchen towel http://imageshack.com/a/img540/1662/0xZfve.jpg Waterproofness http://imageshack.com/a/img540/5384/Mpy8w1.jpg Software ID http://imageshack.com/a/img673/8091/O9zHQR.jpg Oxford Recycled, Kaweco Sport Classic, B http://imageshack.com/a/img673/1449/qGD9IW.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img911/8241/r3TJkz.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img537/4341/CusRJX.jpg Copy Paper, Waterman Hemisphere, F http://imageshack.com/a/img901/3586/CyR80u.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img673/347/b9KsUV.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img910/7554/OzVz6n.jpg Calendar, Waterman Hemisphere, F http://imageshack.com/a/img537/5531/7Ru3KC.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img537/5725/Jf3aUj.jpg Comparison http://imageshack.com/a/img537/7528/HmAwwM.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img673/5544/dRmsNG.jpg
  22. I previously reviewed the Kaweco Brass Sport pen Here and Kaweco Summer Purple ink was the ink I used in that pen when I reviewed it. This is a separate review for Kaweco Summer Purple ink. This is the latest shade of purple from Kaweco. Their previous purple ink was called Aubergine Purple and came in a brighter purple box. You might still find some older bottles of Kaweco Aubergine Purple ink. You can tell if you have one of the newest bottles because the name of the ink is now printed on the box. It's also on the cartridge packs and Kaweco branding is now on each cartridge. Kaweco Summer Purple is a bright purple ink that fits it's name quite nicely. It flowed well across the page and lubricated the nib of the Kaweco Brass Sport nicely. It's a good quality ink. This ink is water based, and isn't waterproof. It's quite water resistant though. It doesn't stain fingers. Kaweco ink is made in Germany. It is available in 30ml bottles or packs containing 6 standard international sized cartridges.
  23. dms525

    Shadow Nib

    Shadow nibs make for interesting writing, but they are really a useful tool when learning a script written with a broad nib. They make your nib angle and stroke direction more obvious. Thus, they make it easier to identify (and correct) errors. David
  24. dms525

    Shadow Nib

    Shadow nibs make for interesting writing, but they are really a useful tool when learning a script written with a broad nib. They make your nib angle and stroke direction more obvious. Thus, they make it easier to identify (and correct) errors. David
  25. Disclaimer: My reviews are about vintage pens I've been collecting for many years. So, please don't expect you can rush to the store or go online to find that particular pen I'm talking about immediately. Also, vintage pens will always be an adventure and in my opinion that's part of the fascination. Even if you find the same model, there's no guaranty that it will behave the same way as described here. Background: Kaweco as a brand name has made an amazing renaissance in the past several years since the original company went belly up some time in the 1980s presumably. Due to the efforts of H & M Gutberlet, several model names and the brand name have been resurrected but I believe that most FP users never got in touch with the original versions of a Kaweco Dia or Kaweco Sport to name only two of their most prominent model lines. So, here comes a short review of one of the ancestors, a Kaweco Dia 85. The model name "Dia" was introduced in 1934 to point to the clear ink window that became possible due to the new piston filling mechanism. Before the Dia, the Kaweco pens were safety, lever, or button fillers. Since then there have been numerous versions of the Dia and even models sharing the same model number can have different designs. The model I'm presenting here is a Dia 85 with FK ("fein/Kugel") nib. It also has a "101" imprinted on the barrel and I have no idea what that refers to. In fact, I have a second Dia 85 with M nib that is almost identical except for the position of the two narrow cap bands. This second Dia 85 has a "52" imprinted on the barrel. But now for the actual review. The outer values (design): This Kaweco Dia 85 was presumably produced roughly between 1946 and 1954 and is a typical representative of the German elegant black piston filler of the era. Anything colourful would have been considered extravagant or frivolous! It measures 125 mm capped, 117 mm uncapped, and 142 mm posted, quite a typical size for the period. The barrel is indeed slightly barrel-shaped with conical domes at both ends and with a short section, which is 9.2 mm at its thinnest (near the nib). The widest girth of the barrel is 11.8 mm right behind the ink window and the cap's girth is 13.2 mm. The piston knob is hidden by a blind cap and the piston mechanism is screwed into the barrel such that there is a 7 mm wide section of the barrel belonging to the piston housing. The imprints of the model number "85" and the nib type "FK" are on this visible ring, which is kind of a design element. To make it visible, the edges of the piston housing are very slightly knurled. There is another imprint on the barrel reading "Kaweco-Dia" which once had been gold but the paint is partially rubbed off. I probably should mention that this is a very well-used pen, a real daily worker. The ink window used to be green but has darkened almost completely, which is very common with these pens and presumably due to the use of iron gall inks over many years. The cap sports two narrow gold plated cap bands, a decorated clip with the "Kaweco" brand name, and an intricate inlaid gold plated finial in the cap screw. Both cap screw and blind cap are knurled and have a conical domed end. The cap also has two breather holes as typical for the era. The pen only weights 15.9 g and this light weight is due to the entire pen being made of celluloid with very few metal components. Finally, the pen is fitted with a 14k semi-flex gold nib with the imprint of the KAWECO logo together with "WARRANTED" and "14c-585". The inner values (technical stuff): The patented screw-in piston mechanism consists of the housing with a square inner boring, the piston rod with a square outer shape, a cork ring as seal held by a plug, which is fixed by a metal pin through the piston rod, the piston spiral inside the housing, and the knob attached to the spiral with another metal pin. The mechanism is rather simple but well-made and functional. It has been used with only minor modifications by Kaweco well into the 1960s. Expect that the cork seal has to be replaced after roughly 70 years! I did it for this one and recommend to be extremely careful or send it to an expert. Due to the construction, you can easily crack the barrel end when trying to unscrew the piston housing or crack the piston rod when knocking out the pin holding the plug of the cork seal. Anyway, with a good, working piston seal in place, the filling works flawlessly and probably will so for the next 50 or so years. If the old seal still works (sometimes after extensive soaking), I recommend to keep it wet all the time to prevent it from shrinking. By the way, the measured ink capacity is roughly 1.0 ml. Performance and balance: If you're not used to vintage pens of this kind, it might appear at first like you have nothing in your hand because it's so light-weight. It's also quite small compared to many modern pens. But once you get the knack of it, it's awesome. It's no different with this Kaweco Dia 85. In fact, it has the almost perfect balance for me, both unposted as well as posted. But I usually don't like to post my pens. When writing, my forefinger might rest on the threads but this doesn't irritate me. I don't feel the threads because I have a very light grip, maybe a result of writing with vintage pens all the time. So, the balance is nearly perfect, what about the writing performance? I'd say as close to perfect as it gets. Writing with this pen is completely effortless. The ink simply flows and even won't make a mess on crappy paper, though it is a medium wet nib (and feed) when compared to other pens of the era. There are no hard starts and no skipping and absolutely no pressure is required. This means that I can write for hours with this pen without the slightest sign of fatigue. I also can write very fast without any problems. And I won't need to worry when taking a thinking break because even without capping the pen for extended periods, it will start writing without any problems. The nib iteself I'd call semi-flex. It won't flex when used in normal or fast writing mode but you can flex it moderately if you want and it will give some line variation (maybe 2-3x). But it's quite clear that this nib was not meant for flex writing. However, the springiness of the nib results in a very nice writing feel together with the smooth tipping that gives just the right amount of feedback even on very slick paper like Clairefontaine or Rhodia. So, it is a little toothier than many modern pens with highly polished nibs (and all the problems that come with this). It's probably comparable to many Aurora nibs regarding feedback. On non-absorbent paper, the nib puts down a truely fine line when not flexed. The "Kugel", meaning sperical, tipping assures that the line has the same width in every direction. It was meant for people who cannot control the "rolling" of the pen and was a specialty nib in the era. The typical German nib till at least the 1960s was more chisel shaped what might be called a stub or cursive italic today. Anyway, the FK nib certainly would be a good choice for a beginner because it's very forgiving. Note: The top pen is the one I just restored and described here with the FK nib. The bottom pen is the mentioned second Dia 85 with M nib, which is not restored yet. I only repaired the badly bent nib so that it would write again. Conclusion: This is an absolute keeper, a very well balanced pen with an excellent nib and flawless filling mechanism. The design is rather understated but shows a lot of love for details if you are willing to look for them. Despite its age, it is an excellent EDC pen and I use this or similar pens all the time, these pens were meant to be used.





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