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  1. Dan Carmell

    Parker 45 Variations (Photo)

    I’ve been buying and obsessing over some new pens coming out of the vast Chinese market, fueling my long interest in Hero pens, especially those that resemble Parkers, as well as pen makers formerly unknown to me. In taking some other photos today, I pulled out the remains of my 45 collection (I kept my most prized 45s and most of the specialty nibs) and took a quick shot. Here is that photo below, with two ‘ringers’ included. One is a Parker, but not a US-made pen, and the other is a Hero. Can you spot them?
  2. Dan Carmell

    Parker 45 nibs

    Here is what’s left of my 45 nibs after I sold off most of my 45s some years ago. The second photo shows the reverse side with a nib designation on the plastic nib collar in some cases. From left to right: gold* EF, faint X on collar; Steel stub w/ S on collar; gold right oblique, unmarked; gold stub with faint S; gold right oblique marked R; gold-plated EF nib marked X; gold nib marked N for Needlepoint (it does not give a finer line than the EFs here so that was disappointing); and finally a medium gold nib marked M. This is a small and random sample, but I hope it gives an idea of how wide a variety of 45 nibs existed. Not as many as the 75, but quite impressive for a budget or midrange fountain pen at that time. I think of the Parker 45 as the last widely used fountain pen in America—anyone have a different candidate? I used the term gold* above because some are 14K, while others are 10K or 12K and I did not disassemble the nib to check which was which. (In general, the 10K and 10K nibs are paler.) That Medium is 14K, however, and I don’t use mediums so if anyone is interested in it… (please excuse if that offer is against guidelines, I’ll delete if so!)
  3. Last month I bought a Parker 75 with a 14k gold ‘M’ nib. The pen has the date code ‘IE’, so is from either 1984 Q1 or 1988 Q3. One of the first inks that I put through it was Parker Quink ‘Black’, from a cartridge that I bought back in the mid-2000s. It worked delightfully in my 75, being far more ‘black’ than I remember it as being. Today I decided to put a cartridge from the same box in to my early-1970s Parker 45, which has a 14k gold ‘M’ nib. In that pen it barely wrote at all. I assumed that there was something wrong with the pen, and switched the cartridge in to my late-1970s Parker 45, which has a steel ‘M’ nib. The ink barely worked in that pen either. I then spent Some Time switching the nibs, feed-‘spikes’, and grip-sections between my two 45s, in a quest to cobble-together a 45 in which my cartridge of Parker Quink ‘Black’ would produce a pleasant writing experience. Whilst I have now managed to create a 45 in which the flow of Quink is improved slightly, the pen is still laying down a very fine line that looks ‘washed-out’ and grey. Does anybody understand why this might be occurring? Do I perhaps own the two driest-writing 45s in Christendom? I don’t think it’s this, because I haven’t had problems with any other inks in them. Or do I have the wettest-writing 75 on the planet? Is 2000s-era Quink ‘Black’ merely incompatible with 1970s Parker pens? Or has my house become host to either a Dybbuk, or perhaps a convocation of the Unseelie Court? (If I had to lay money on any of these possible explanations, it would undoubtedly be the latter one.) My thanks to you in advance for any explanations that you can offer. Slàinte, M.
  4. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    Top-Bottom: Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ BP I think that it was made in the late 1960s. Its clip-screw/cap-tassie is one of the ‘inverted cone’ ones. Note the fine grooves that have been incised around the pen during manufacture to create a ‘grip-section’ near its writing tip. This pen is the one that I reach for if I want to use a BP. It is made to a slightly higher quality than my 1991 Parker Jotter, and to a much higher quality than my 2002 Jotter ‘Flighter’. All three of those pens were made at Parker’s factory in Newhaven, but the quality of their manufacture declined along with the fortunes of the company. The grip section of the 45 BP is also slightly girthier than that on my Jotters, so I find it to be more-comfortable to use. Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ FP with 14k gold nib This pen was made in the early 1970s. This pen has a 14k gold nib that is supposedly ‘M’. It came to me in barely-used, ‘near mint’ condition. I have found the nib to be very, very ‘dry’. Under normal (light) writing pressure its line-width is only that of a Lamy Z50 nib marked ‘EF’. Under pressure it does ‘flex’ out to give a line that is slightly wider than that of a modern Parker ‘M’, and like the line written by my two Pelikan P480 ‘Pelikanos’ (whose nibs are marked ‘F’). But the amount of pressure that this nib requires me to apply in order to get it to open up to being wider than an ‘EF’, and to allow any ink to actually flow through it, is profoundly uncomfortable and tiring. I have not yet found an ink that is ‘gushy’ enough to actually flow out of this nib. I therefore suspect that it was ‘near mint’ because it is actually unusable as a pen ☹️ Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ FP with stainless steel nib This pen was made in the late 1970s. If one places these two FPs’ nibs tip-to-tip, the tipping on this pen appears to be ‘finer’ than that on the gold-nibbed pen above it. I have though found that it writes with a wider line than my gold-nibbed 45 does. I would describe its line as a narrow ‘M’, or wide ‘F’. The steel nib is a ‘nail’, and does not flex at all, but it is a reliable writer that is comfortable to use.
  5. Mercian

    Parker 45 ‘Flighters’.jpeg

    From the album: Mercian’s pens

    Top-Bottom: Parker 45 ‘Flighter BP This pen was made in the late 1960s. Note the fine grooves that have been incised around the pen during manufacture to create a ‘grip-section’ near its writing tip. Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ FP from the early 1970s This pen has a 14k gold nib that is supposedly ‘M’. I have found the nib to be very, very ‘dry’. Under normal (light) writing pressure its line-width is only that of a Lamy Z50 nib marked ‘EF’. Under pressure it does ‘flex’ out to give a line that is slightly wider than that of a modern Parker ‘M’, and like the line written by my two Pelikan P480 ‘Pelikanos’ whose nibs are marked ‘F’. I have not yet found an ink that is ‘gushy’ enough to enable me to write comfortably with this nib ☹️ Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ FP from the late 1970s This pen has a stainless-steel nib that is marked ‘M’. Its tipping is narrower than that on the 14k-gold nib on my other 45, but it writes with a wider line than that pen! The nib is a ‘nail’ - it does not ‘flex’ at all. It writes with a finer liner than do my ‘M’-nibbed Parker FPs from the 1990s, 2000s, and 2010s. But it is usable with light pressure.
  6. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    I have tried to show that all three of these pens have the same ‘haloed arrow’ logo, and the same ‘MADE IN ENGLAND’ stamp. Top-bottom: Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ BP, late 1960s. Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ FP, early 1970s. Parker 45 ‘Flighter’, late 1970s.
  7. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    I have tried to highlight that all three of these pens have the same ‘haloed arrow’ logo, and the same ‘MADE IN ENGLAND’ stamp. Top-bottom: Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ BP, late 1960s. Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ FP, early 1970s. Parker 45 ‘Flighter’, late 1970s.
  8. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    A photo to show the three different types of clip-screw/cap-tassie on my Parker 45s. L-R: ‘Inverted-cone’ or ‘conical’ tassie, on my Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ BP, which I believe to date from the late 1960s. ‘Dimpled’ tassie, on my Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ FP from the early 1970s. ’Dished’ tassie, on my Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ FP from the late 1970s. Both the ‘dimpled’ and ‘dished’ tassies appear to have been in continuous production after 1970. I cannot believe that any company would invest in two different types of tooling in order to make the same small part, and so I suspect (based solely on a total guess) that the ‘dimpled’ tassie is a ‘dished’ tassie that has been machined to create the dimple. Or, if you prefer, that the ‘dished’ tassie is actually a part that was intended to be machined in to a ‘dimpled’ tassie, but which was accidentally released in to the world in an ‘unfinished’ state.
  9. Darthagnon

    Parker 45 nib wobble?

    I recently repaired a Parker 45 bent nib. It writes infinitely better than it did, but I've noticed the nib wobbles up and down a little bit (~0.5mm?) against the feed. This makes it feel a little bit floaty/brush-like/extra flexible (? my first gold nib, not sure how flexible it's supposed to be) when writing, and I suspect causes it to hard-start due to broken ink flow. Can anyone offer any suggestions to stop the wobble? Is it one of those pens that needs heat-setting to the feed with boiling water? Should I try jamming a bit of paper/plastic/thin rubber in there? Has anyone else had or fixed this sort of problem before? I'd sure appreciate any advice; thank you, once again, for the previous times you've helped me! Previously, the left tine was bent. I straightened it by rolling, which perhaps could have changed the shape of the rest of the nib (not that I can tell with the naked eye, though I do have a couple other 45s around I could compare to), allowing it to wobble. The feed is undamaged, and it writes "okay", quite wetly (gap between tines is probably a little wider than brand new, due to the repair). I'll post a writing sample/photos if anyone thinks they'd be useful... EDIT: Writing sample, using Diamine Matador ink. All Parker 45 lines are single, some of the reference Parker 25 lines are double (e.g. flames in the Ring verse). Noticeably more shading due to ink deposition.
  10. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    A comparison of the widths of the grip-sections of the Parker 45 and Parker 25.
  11. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    1970s Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ compared with 1979 Parker 25 ‘Flighter’. All the converters shown will fit in to the 45. The one next to the 45 is the one that was designed for the 45. It will NOT fit in to the 25, or in to any Parker pen that was designed after 1980.
  12. Mercian

    Parker 25 v Parker 45.jpeg

    From the album: Mercian’s pens

    Comparison of uncapped 1970s Parker 45 ‘Flighter’ with 1979 Parker 25 ‘Flighter’.
  13. From the album: Mercian’s pens

    L-R: 2004 Parker Jotter made in UK: 2019 Parker Vector made in India by Luxor; 1970s Parker 45 made in England; 1979 Parker 25 made in England 2015; Parker Frontier made in India by Luxor; 2015 Parker Urban made in France. The converter that is above all the pens in the photo is of the type that came with the original 45 - and you need to know that it will fit in to ONLY the 45! It is too girthy/‘fat’ to fit in to any of these other pens, or any Parker pens that were designed after 1980.
  14. A couple of years ago, I found myself on EBay bidding on two pens being sold by someone not familiar with fountain pens. As I recall, they had two Parker 45s and a Parker 61. Of the three, only the one Parker 45 with more in-focus photos was getting any bidding action. I zeroed in on what I hoped would be a double win. I was interested in the Parker 45 because, even though the photos were blurry and under lit, I could see that the nib was gold and that the cap was a nice stainless steel with a gold filled clip. Also, I have wanted to own a Parker 61 so I place bids on both and had over bid enough (I thought) to win the '61 as well as the '45. As it turned out someone else was waiting for the last 15 seconds and then out bid me on the '61. Oh well...I was going to get a Parker 45 with a gold nib! I paid the seller and waited. After about five days a plain manila envelope arrived with no absolutely no padding. I opened the envelope and was greatly disappointed. The barrel of the Parker 45 was in 3 pieces, two quite large and one so tiny that it was easily lost. I took photos and the seller refunded the purchase. I offered to return the broken pen but he said, "No, just throw it away." Well on closer examination, I realized that the cap was wrong! It was a Parker 61 cap! This meant that the person who out bid me on the '61 apparently received a Parker '61 with a Parker '45 cap. I took out the medium point gold nib and installed it in a nice black Parker 45 and put its stainless steel nib away. What to do? I listed the Parker '61 cap on Ebay. It was listed for nearly two months with no takers (that surprised me) so I eventually took it down. Then one day I thought, "what the heck." I got out the super glue and glued the barrel back together. They actually fit together quite nicely but the pen truly looked like "Frankenpen" what with the glue seams showing glaringly. After the pen had dried for about an hour (hey...I was experimenting and did not expect it to work anyway) I grabbed some 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper and lightly sanded away at all of the seams under the kitchen faucet. What emerged was a pen barrel that at first glance looks totally fine. Closer examination will, however reveal the seams and one small, tiny, tiny, tiny (did I say tiny?) piece that had disappeared in the envelope and was too small to glue in there anyway. As you can tell in photos, the section of this pen has suffered from the plastic shrinking somewhat but I was able to fit the stainless steel nib that I had into this pen. I got a real cheap Jinao International converter (the short variety) and drilled out the opening to fit the Parker, loaded the pen with some Hero 232 Blue Black (a fine ink if you can find it anywhere anymore) and was pleasantly surprised. My little Parker 45/61 Frankenpen goes with us everywhere. It is aboard our boat each sailing season in the navigation drawer. All log entries are made with that pen. It has been in my carry on luggage to Europe and been loaned out a few times. It is a very smooth writing pen and believe it or not, the Parker 61 cap, while not feeling quite as secure on the barrel as a 45 cap does the job. The pen can sit idle for a week or so and still start right up. In addition to the Hero 232, I have run KWZ IG Blue #1, Sailor Jentle Blue, and Hero Carbon Black in the pen. It doesn't seem to mind. I was going to find a new barrel and section and then just move the nib over and create a "perfect Parker 45 with a new cap" but you know what? I love my lowly Frankenpen! So, in relating this story to you, it occurred to me that perhaps there are other Frankenpens out there that have a unique story and are actually being loved and used. Frankenpen anyone? The pen as it arrived: ...and after the glue job and wet-sanding...
  15. Hello again to all my FPN friends, When the original Moonman 80 came out, I resisted buying one because I already have more Parker 45s than I can remember. However, when the 80mini came out I knew it was worth a try, if only to be a recepticle for my favorite Parker 45 gold nibs. Although the quality isn't nearly as good as that of a real Parker 45, these pens still hold their own and nib swappability opens up endless possibilities. How cool is it that I can put a soft 14k UK Parker 45 OBB stub in a tiny pen that will fit in my pocketbook or even directly in my pocket?? Here are some of my impressions after taking the pen apart and playing around with it today: (This first page was written with the stock EF nib. Notice how hard it is to read due to how dry the pen writes.) (Problem solved with a quick and easy nib swap.) Size Comparisons: (top to bottom: Platinum Preppy 02; Pilot 78G; Delike Alpha; Moonman 80mini) Comparison of Nib Assemblies: (Parker 45 on the left; Moonman 80mini on the right) Notice the extra bits of plastic from the injection molding process still on the Moonman's feed and cowl. This leads me to believe that the Moonman will probably write much better if one uses a razor blade to scrape off the extra plastic bits and floss the channels. Moonman 80mini vs. my son's "moon man":
  16. So my pen dealer out of the blue messages me yesterday to tell me that she's got a NOS Parker 25 for me. We go back and forth with pictures and pricing and she also discloses the existence of a Parker 45 Convertible GT with a 14K gold nib that is also for sale. Resistance is futile and so I cave in! Today I picked up these two beauties: an old NOS Parker 25 Stainless Steel with black trim with original box, original Spanish sticker price hanging from the clip, and a clear tag identifying this pen as a 25 with a fine nib. Turns out the pen was made in England between 1975 and 1979 as there is no code in the cap. It is a flat top with no dimple. Lovely pen! And then, I get the Parker 45 which came with a black barrel, a 14K fine nib and an original metal squeeze converter. All these for just $53!! I already have a bunch of 45 pens, but none made in the US (only England and Mexico), and none with a gold nib or gold trim. I promptly switched the barrel to a Flighter one I had from a pen that came with a faulty section, since I already have an Arrow and a Convertible pen with a black barrel. What do you all think?
  17. Dip n Scratch

    Moonman 80

    Does the long Moonman 80 take genuine Parker cartridges with a good, tight fit. I have a pack of Parker Blue/Black cartridges to use up. It is sad that while the pen is a clone of the Parker 45 it isn't an exact copy when it comes to the nib unit. It wouldn't screw all the way into my Parker 45. It's 'M' nib is broader than I like.
  18. I would like an opinion about the prices for a couple used Parker 45 Flighter Deluxe I found someone selling. Would you buy? The first Parker 45 Flighter Deluxe is a 1960's vintage (black endcap) it looks very good, some signs of use but no deep scratches, pictures are not clear enough to notice small details. He wants $12 for this one. This Parker 45 Flighter Deluxe is a 1970's vintage (gold endcap) clear pictures of it, it looks like it is in excellent condition, no scratches and very minimal wear and tear, barely used or well taken care of, it includes the original Parker pen case. He wants $17 for this one. And honorable mention (because I don't think I want this one, but if you guys tell me to grab it I will for the heck of it and gift it to someone) Parker 45 GT (I think) has a navy gray body and a metal cap with gold trims, clear pictures on it and it looks ok, there are many scratches and details everywhere but nothing too terrible. He wants $10. What do you guys think? Should I buy? Seller is local BTW, so they won't do international shipping, I would share contact information otherwise.
  19. Inkysloth

    Parker 45 Desk Pen - Propeller Base

    Hi folks, I've just bought a desk pen from Ebay, and I'd like to know if there's a list anywhere of all the Magnetix desk bases Parker made? This is the propeller base, with a nice brass-ended desk 45, with a 14ct medium nib. Did 3rd party manufacturers make bases compatible with the Magnetix system? Parker 45 propeller desk pen by Robin Inkysloth, on Flickr Parker 45 propeller desk pen by Robin Inkysloth, on Flickr
  20. I suppose this could be the beginning of a debate but I have noticed something that is a bit surprising to me. My experience (so far, at least) would indicate that the Parker 45 is typically a smoother writing pen than the "51." Let me explain: About 5 years ago, I purchased my very first Parker 51, a1949 Aerometric from the daughter of its original owner, a man who obviously took good care of his Parker 51. The pen is the classic Forest Green with a 14K Gold-filled cap and is a wonderfully writing fountain pen. Since then, I have purchased two more "51s" truly "in the wild." Both of them are vacumatics. All three of my "51s" have the more common fine to medium fine nib and all three have about the same degree of writing smoothness with, perhaps, my first "51" being the smoothest. Just a few days ago I posted a response on this forum about Parker 45 converters and an experience I had with my first "45." All of this got me to thinking because I now have 4 Parker "45s" and, with the exception of one of them, they seem to write with a smoothness one would expect from a "51." In fact those three "45s" write smoother than all three of my "51s." So my question is this: Did Parker really perfect their expertise in "nibology" (is that a new word?) to the point that the somewhat inexpensive Parker 45 consistently writes with "51" or better smoothness or do I have three "51s" that are not characteristic of how smoothly a "51" can write? Granted, it seems that the "45" is typically a wetter writing pen and the finer nibs of my 3 "51s" would naturally "feel" less smooth because of a smaller contact surface but the question, I believe, is one worthy of comment by those of you with more experience in this area. Cliff
  21. I accidentally came across a nice pen which I want to have for quite sometime. A Parker 45: Gold Cap, 14K Fine nib, made in USA, black Barrel. The one I got is quite old, but writes very well. As you can see above, there are lots of mini (not micro) scratchings and rust maybe around the pen, turn up I bought it as the price is nice and I really love the shape of the 45. After writing some days, today I return her beauty. I need a princess, not a muddy frog... What I need? [1] Tamiya Compound, Course, Fine, and Finish. [2] Cape Cod polish cloth. (it is much better than the Autosol paste) [3] Some rayon eyeglasses cloth, or you can get some fine micro fibre cloth, or even just some cloth. [4] glove [5] cotton buds & paper towels. What to do? [1] Wear the glove. And wash the pen under tab, some mild detergent may help but I just use water this time, beware of flushing small parts away.... [2] dry the parts with paper towel [3] polishing the barrel [3.1] squeeze some Coarse Compound on the barrel or on the cloth and polish with a fine cloth, for a pen barrel, say 5 mins is good enough. [3.2] wash off under tap and slightly wipe dry with paper towel [3.3] repeat 3.1 & 3.2 [3.4] use another new cloth, repeat as Coarse, but using Fine and then Finish (so total you wash six times. for the section area, I use Fine compound for one more time as the scratches from the metal cap are severe. [4] polishing the metal parts [4.1] cut a little piece of Cape Cod is fine for a pen, in my case, about 3 x 3 cm is good. [4.2] when the metal part starts, everything will gone black, many oxidised powder will come out. Just continue to polish like 5 mins, until you feel fine. And during polishing the metal, you could wipe off the blackenings by a paper towel. [4.3] when it is done, wash your hand. then using the soft fine cloth to wipe off the blackenings from the metal surface. ATTENTION: if it is gold plated, I suggest a mild polishing procedures to be followed, otherwise if the plating is too thin, the plating could have a possibility to be wiped off by the polishing ingredient. For my case, although the cap is gold filled, I just have it polished slightly, so that there are still some micro scratches left behind. But anyway, it works really good already. And don't use too much force on polishing to avoid breaking the pen, man, the pen is old already. Quick, but not hard. upper left, use cotton bud to polish and dry the small parts. upper right, the compound paste bottom left, the size of the Cape Cod cloth bottom right, half way done, after Coarse and Fine Compound polishing. What I get? TADA! I use a brand new Sailor Professional Gear for comparison.
  22. This pen works really well. It's an achievement in terms of design and functionality. The more I use and understand it, the more I appreciate what the Parker 45 accomplished. Size - For everyday school/business use, the size works. It is unobtrusive but sturdy. Easy on the shirt pocket. The pen is big enough to use unposted but is just that much more comfortable posted. It is a slim pen.Weight - Unposted the pen is light and agile. Posted it feels solid but still a very easy writer.Nib - The semi-hooded nib ensures the pen stays ready to write. The screw-in nib-feed assembly locks in alignment and takes the guesswork out of nib maintenance.Cap - The friction cap is as simple and fast to use. The cap posts deeply so the posted length feels hardly longer than unposted. I haven't found that posting the cap scratches the barrel.Section - The section is long and smooth making it easy to grip anywhere that's comfortable.Filling mechanism - The pen uses cartridges or a converter, i.e., the modern standard. Here's my take on why Parker made the 45. I'd love to hear what people more familiar with the story have to say. By the mid 60s the Parker 51 was also showing its age. Nib maintenance on the Parker 51 was non-trivial and beyond what most owners could manage. If you wanted to change or repair a nib, you had to send the pen away for the work.The Parker 51 filling system required owners to have bottled ink on hand. If you were away from your desk when the pen ran out, you had a problem. I suspect lots of people carried a couple of pens to make sure that didn’t happen.The Parker 45 solved both of those problems. The screw in nib/feed unit made swapping nibs trivial. In a pinch, owners could do it themselves. Parker advertised a free nib swapping service for 30 days after purchase.The Parker 45 used ink cartridges. This meant users could easily bring along spare ink and never have to worry about the pen running dry. (It could also use a converter for bottled ink.)Parker also found ways to make the pen cheaper through new materials and improved manufacturing. The Parker 45 was a huge hit. It caught the market at just the right moment when people were looking for better, cheaper solutions. It was only discontinued in 2007! And Moonman? So why does this pen exist from a Chinese company? Blame it on Deng Xiaoping. National Archives and Records Administration [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons In the late 70s Parker decided they wanted to go to China. The market was showing signs of opening (thanks to Deng) and China offered interesting OEM possibilities. So they paid a visit and set up an exploratory project with Hero. As part of the deal they transferred the design and manufacturing process for the 45. Parker ultimately abandoned the effort but left the IP behind as compensation for Hero’s investment. Frank Underwater tells the story from the Chinese side of things. Hero didn’t let the knowledge go to waste. They made pens, notably the Hero 800 and now, it seems, the Moonman 80 as an OEM project for Shanghai Jindian 上海晶典. So the Moonman 80 is based on the original Parker 45 design but is produced as an authorized clone. Moonman 80 Writing Experience With the F nib (the pen also comes with an EF nib that I don't care for), the pen is a wet and generous writer. It requires little or no pressure. In fact, the less the better. The nib offers a useful sweet spot gives moderate feedback. Waterman Absolute Brown looks great with the F nib. The Moonman 80 costs ¥49.00 on Taobao or less than US$7.50. It is also available in lower-cost 80s variants that come with plastic caps. (The 80s mini looks alot like a Pilot 95 Elite.) All of the Moonman 80 models use the same nib units so they should write the same. Since I experienced the vintage Aurora 88, I’ve come to appreciate semi-hooded nib pens. The design represents an interesting approach to the problem keeping pens ready to write. If you're a Parker 45 fan, you probably know about the Moonman 80 already. If you are just getting into fountain pens and want to see what the business was up to in the 60s, the Moonman 80 can help shed some light. More photos and comments here.
  23. DasKaltblut

    Moonman 80 Vs. Parker 45

    I finally recieved my Moonman 80, a Parker 45 clone. It is in fact so much of a clone that the caps, bodies and converters are all interchangeable. There are 3 cap patterns, I got the striped. They fit perfectly on each other. Except for the metal part at the bottom of the Moonman, this is a near exact replica. It writes nicely, no issues with the nib either. I've compared it here with my father's old P45 that he wrote with so much he wore finger divets into the section. No idea how to fix the P45, but the Moonman will do for me in the meantime! Also, the box was really nice, which is somewhat unusual for Chinese pens.
  24. alexwi

    Grind And Rescue

    Hi y'all, Got a Parker 45 recently and it had a broken nib, so last Sunday I figured that I might grind it like there's no tomorrow. After all, I had nothing to lose. (I was in a grinding mood anyway, as I sharpened three knives earlier that day.) Started with a diamond knife sharpener I had lying around, to shape the nib, and then followed with the entire gamut of micromesh. the most challenging part was to get a flat section out of a concave object (remember, the tip of the nib was missing). The pictures show the result of each step, first with the sharpener and then as I polished with the micromesh (I love this stuff and hate that I barely have any time to indulge in this). I'm not sure that I have a pen smoother than this one now. After narrowing the tip of the nib as much as possible, I turned it into a stub or italic or whatever that's called. Symmetry could be a bit better, but it works, so I ain't touching it further. And without further ado, the pictures! alex
  25. gibbs

    Parker 45 Z Vs Y Nibs

    I own a number of parker 45 nibs and while looking on ebay to try and track down the missing ones I came across a Y nib I have however been unable to find any information on then although it does look kind of similar to the Z nib and wondered if anyone knew abit more about them





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