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Dear Forum, I hope this finds you well. I have bought a Montblanc 320P With a original Steel-Goldplated nib , wich I want to replace….but there is a problem… I can’t finde replacement nibs ? Or almost none ? So this makes me question, where can I buy replacement nibs ? (I live in Germany, so most us sellers don’t sell to me ) I have wondered , if I could use nibs from other pens , like the Montblanc Carrera or from another brand …but here I need your help. i know somebody here for sure knows something about this problem or can help me… ( I sorry , but sadly I am not a native speaker, if there are any questions, pls ask and I am going to answer them , I really need help )
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Parker Vector writes like a dream, but rude awakening when neglected.
T.D. Rabbit posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
Apologies for the cryptic title. I wanted to make it funny. Not sure where to post this exactly, but my problem probably has something to do with the nib, so. Okay, so I have a Parker Vector, bought in India- To be sold in India and Nepal only- and while I had issues starting out with it (It was my first fountain pen in years, and indeed, my first good fountain pen) and left it for a year or two (Edit: I cleaned it out before storing it away, and cleaned it again, thoroughly, before starting to use it more recently. So, probably not a dry ink issue.)... It started writing pretty well recently after I followed some recommendations I found around here and other places on the great wide internet: - Lightly pressing down the pen nib to... open up the tines somewhat, maybe? It was being too dry, hence. But I did this only once with this pen, compared to the relative torture I inflicted on my platinum preppy- That's another story! -Strokes from side to side. This really helped, somehow. -Using better paper- Okay, that one was on me. I was using paper smoother than my brain, and pretty thin. Once I moved on to using only the paper that 'felt good', my experience was bettered considerably. However. Recently, I've been having a problem. I write with the pen, and it writes very well, but then I have to leave it open for maybe half a minute listening to a professor, and when I get back to writing, I have to run it about a bit before it starts writing again (It gets dry-ish.)- Not ideal in fast-paced classes! I love this pen, and I want to keep using it, but I might have to keep this aside for when I have longer, personal writing sessions... And I don't want to do that. TL;DR: Parker vector writes well, but when left open for even 30 seconds, has a dry start. A very dry start. I have attached pictures of my nib. Further, this may have something to do with my, I suspect somewhat diseased, convertor? It's very old, it's very cheap, and the ink doesn't really stay above the piston all the time- There's always a thin layer left below it. Have also attached a picture of the convertor. Further, there are often bubbles above the ink when the convertor is partially filled, giving it the appearance of being fully filled. I fill the converter through the nib, dipping it in the inkpot. As for the ink I use, Parker Quink Black, to be sold in India and Nepal only, 100rs or 1.2 dollars for 30 ml. The pen lays down a (as per me, though I'm certainly no authority) decently wet line- I love watching how it dries. Time slows down. That's about it. Thank you for reading through my slightly convoluted style of writing!- 26 replies
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I recently bought a TWSBI mini Diamond. I also got a bottle of Monboddo's Hat. Right off the bat I noticed that after I filled it with the ink straight from the bottle using the piston, the pen didn't write immediately. Ok, then it started writing after doing some strokes. I noticed however that sometimes it hard started. Then I noticed that when I drew quicker longer lines it just didn't write at all. Then I noticed that it seemed to prefer reverse writing. I thought the tines were too much apart so I squeezed them together but there is still the same problem. I also flushed the feed and nib section with soapy water, nothing. I drew ink and flushed it multiple times, then drew water and flushed it multiple times. I don't know what is wrong, and I am asking for your help, being more experienced. I am disappointed, because I initially tried to avoid TWSBIs because of some bad things I have heard about them, and some other people convinced me that TWSBIs have improved and never had issues. This is my most expensive pen as of now, I got it as a little gift for myself after my Master's Thesis defense, and now I am thinking I wasted my money. Can you tell me how to fix this issue, why can't it keep up with quicker, longer lines, and why does it randomly stop writing? Thank you.
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- twsbi mini
- ink flow problems
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Hi all! I just bought a Pilot celluloid pen at a local antique store and I can't find anything on it. I know it's a Pilot and that it's old. I am confused on the filling mechanism (solved), and would like to find out the model #/name and history of the pen. UPDATE: The filling mechanism is a Japanese Eyedropper with a closing valve. I still would like to find out the model #/name and history on it.
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I saw this pen on The Pen Addict blog. I asked there what model it was, but the poster did not answer. I looked through an entire search of images of purple pen with daisies. No luck. I hope someone here can identify the pen. Or it would help to know the pen maker. I’d like to know the name and model. I put it through a photo app to isolate the pen
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Hi everyone! I bought this TWSBI Vac Mini back in November of 2021 (so almost exactly a year ago). Its had 3 different inks in it (Monteverde California Teal, Noodler’s Black Eel, and Noodler’s Cactus Fruit Eel) and every single ink has leaked into the end cap knob at the end of the pen (I don’t know the official name for this piece). The Monteverde ink was the first ink I ever used and that’s when the whole issue started. Is this normal? If so how can I clean the old ink out and prevent this in the future? Any help or guidance would be appreciated. I’ve looked online for help and can’t seem to find anything for this specific issue. I have used silicone grease to help seal up any threads and lubricant the o-rings but that doesn’t seem like it helped. I contacted the company where I bought it from and they said it seemed like a manufacturer issue and to email TWSBI but then I emailed TWSBI and they said this was normal. For a $65 pen, this is really irritating to me because aesthetically it looks horrible and I’m afraid it could damage the metal inside the piece as well in the long run. If I can get ideas how to fix this or a potential solution I would be elated. I really do like this pen and love the 2 Ecos I have as well. I was wanting the TWSBI Vac Iris but I sure don’t want to pay $80-$85 for a pen and it do the same thing this one is doing. This doesn’t affect the performance of the pen, but I’m particular about keeping my pens clean and this drives me insane! 😅 I have 2 other vacuum fillers but the end cap knobs are opaque so I don’t know if this is just a common issue with vac fillers. Thanks in advance!
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Hello guys, I just bought a Montblanc pen (original i hope), used, for 200€. My pen has serial number and germany on top ring. On cap ring it has only “montblanc meisterstuck”: no pix neither n.° 146. I hope some of you guys can help me identify the year of this fountain pen (and if it is original). Thanks and happy new year!
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So I have a pen which currently has a fine nib, but I would prefer a broader, wetter, and smoother experience. This brand uses JoWo nibs, and the fine was too feedbacky and fine, and it was a touch on the dry side. So this brand sells extra branded nib units, which are JoWo #6 18k nibs, and I was wondering whether I should buy a medium or a broad. I would like a smoother and broader (but I do not want a super broad nib) writing experience. So is the jump in nibs sizes from medium to broad, or fine to medium? Is the medium noticeably smoother? Thank you for your help, W. Major
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I just going to say it... I personally hate the look of the Lamy Safari and All TWSBIs.
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Can anyone explain to me why they like the designs so I can appreciate it more? I don’t mean to be rude or criticize people for what they like, I am just curious why you like the look of these pens. Just please reply! I really want to know what the appeal is. Thank you for your help! W. Major- 158 replies
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Do you know the model name of this ballpoint and mechanical pencil set?
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Cross
My great-grandmother gave me this set a few years ago and am trying to find a matching fountain pen to purchase. The issue is, I don’t know the model name. If anyone could help me with this I would really appreciate it! Thank you in advance, William- 5 replies
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- cross
- mechanical pencil
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Oh goodness… I need your help with this pen restoration.
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
So.. I finally got my shipment from Anderson Pens for restoring my little Wearever and everything went great! I put a new sac on (which is watertight) and put a new j-bar in (40mm) but since they didn’t have talc in stock I ordered it from a separate place, and it is due to arrive soon. Anyway, so as I was moving the barrel with the j-bar, I dropped it, and the j-bar moved a little bit further back (I didn’t know it could, I pushed it back as far as I could) leaving me not able to pull it out with the hemostat. Long story short, I gave it somebody who, despite me telling them explicitly several times not to open the lever when trying to pull it out, did it anyway, and pulled the lever and a little metal ring out of the pen, along with the j-bar. Can I get the lever back in? Is my pen broken? Could I do anything to fix it? And if I can, should I put it a slightly bigger j-bar? Thank you for all of your help. I really like the way this wrote, it was like a medium that was ground quite stub-like. So I really want it to be a functioning pen. Thank you for all of your help. Below is a picture of all the parts, including the lever and the ring. -
How to grease a Santini piston?
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Looking into possibly buying a Santini... was wondering if any of you have greased the piston on it or know how to. Thanks for your help! W. H. Major- 20 replies
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- santini
- santini italia
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Help! How do I restore this pen?
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
I just impulsively got my first vintage pen, as well as my first pen needing restoration, at an antique store a few hours ago. But, I have absolutely no clue how to restore it. When I opened it, the sac was absolutely dust and the metal pressure bar fell out in two pieces. I expected the sac to be destroyed, but not the pressure bar! So, could anyone please make a step-by-step instructions for how to restore it, as well as what I will need and where to buy it? It would be much appreciated! Thank you! -
What is your favorite beginner fountain pen?
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Please help beginners! Things like this are things that I’m sure many beginners look at to see which pen to first buy. Thank you to all who participate! -
Hello! Just very interested in what your grail pens are.. no matter if it’s $50 or $10,000, I would be very interested to hear your responses. W. H. Major (My grail pen(s) [can’t choose one!] are the Waldmann Tuscany (18k Gold nib), Pineider Avatar UR Deluxe, Conway Stewart Duro (modern), and the Pilot Custom 823)
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Recommendations for a warm medium-dark brown ink!
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Inky Thoughts
Hello! Unfortunately I can’t seem to find an ink that makes me completely happy. I would like a warm medium-dark brown ink, but that doesn’t have an olive-y look and has good shading. Noodler’s Walnut has a purplish undertone, Jacques Herbin Terre D’Ombre is too olive-y and on Apica paper it is so dark. Herbin Lie de Thé is a little too light, and Diamine Chocolate Brown is just a little bit too dark. I know this is very specific, but do any of you have recommendations? I am not sure if this is the place to put this post, if not please say so. Thank you so much for your help! W. H. Major -
Conway Stewart Dandy Opinions
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Hello! I’ve been looking into possibly getting a modern Conway Stewart. I personally prefer gold nibs, and like the look of their Dandy model. I was wondering if any of you have any opinions on modern Conway Stewarts and/or this model. I haven’t seen really any review for it anywhere. Thanks, W. Major- 5 replies
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Can I Put A Gold #5 Size Nib in a Esterbrook JR Pocket Pen?
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Hello! I was wondering if any of you know or have ever tried to put a JoWo #5 size gold nib in an Esterbrook JR Pocket pen, specifically one from fpnibs.com. Thank you for your help! W. H. Major- 7 replies
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Could I put a 18k Edison nib or 14k FPR nib in a Conklin Duragraph? Is there any other gold nib I could get that would fit it for cheaper?
collectorofmanythings posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
Hello! I love the look of many Conklin pens, especially the Duragraph, and the steel JoWo nibs are just fine, but I would love to put a gold nib in it. I saw that both Edison and FPR make gold nibs (I especially like FPR because it is $20 cheaper) in the #6 size and was wondering if anyone thinks this is a good idea or if anyone has ever tried it. Thank you for your help! W. H. Major I posted this in the wrong section before. Oops! Reposting to the right place, which I think is this one. -
Hi guys! I’m helping a coworker catalog some of her mum’s pens. She had a gigantic collection... I found some great resources for Parker and Sheaffer, I was wondering if there was something similar for Waterman? Here are some examples of her collection
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DH and I recently began fiddling with old beater fountain pens. We are not after full restorations at this point, just writers with character, and have managed to re-sac seven lever-fillers, three of which have become excellent writers (and some of which need further work). Now we've moved to button-fillers, and we ran into a problem. I'm quoting him here: 'Notes & Questions: When reassembling this pen, if there is no sac fitted on the section, the section fits in the body properly (a pressure fit) and the button and pressure bar seem to work normally. However, once a sac is attached to the sections nipple, the section wont slide all the way into the body and slowly creeps out. There is a spongy feel when pressing the section in. Ive tried smaller and shorter sacs with no difference. Its the same problem even if the pressure bar is not installed in the body. Ive noticed a ring or ridge of gunk just inside the barrel at about the same depth of the sac nipple step on the section. Could this just be old sack and adhesive that should be scraped away? Its also where the end of the pressure bar wants to rest. Should I just give the barrel a good cleaning and scrape that ridge out or do I need a special, thin-walled sac for this pen?' Here is the pen, fully disassembled: http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/2014/8863/8804/Waltham_BF-fully_apart-640p.jpg This is looking into the barrel with the pressure bar in place: http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/2914/8863/8802/Waltham_BF-barrel_w_bar.JPG This is a tilted view of the barrel showing some of the ridge: http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/8214/8863/8800/Waltham_BF-barrel_tilted-640p.jpg Can anyone tell us what to do next? Thanks!
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- section problems
- sac size
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I remember reading about folks sending a pen to have the nib ground....I think there was someone in Edinburgh, but anywhere in UK is great : recommendations? I have a couple of pens which need attention: - a Mont Blanc Monte Rosa which has a nib so scratchy as to be unusable - an Omas piston filler which I took apart(I should not have done that....an old habit of taking things apart, but then not being able to get them back Together)and which I now can't reassemble. Grateful for ant help Thanks Alex