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Found 19 results

  1. I saw this pen on The Pen Addict blog. I asked there what model it was, but the poster did not answer. I looked through an entire search of images of purple pen with daisies. No luck. I hope someone here can identify the pen. Or it would help to know the pen maker. I’d like to know the name and model. I put it through a photo app to isolate the pen
  2. I rescued this one from an old shed. Any help identifying it would be great. Thank you
  3. Fountainewbie

    Montblanc 146? Original? Year?

    Hello guys, I just bought a Montblanc pen (original i hope), used, for 200€. My pen has serial number and germany on top ring. On cap ring it has only “montblanc meisterstuck”: no pix neither n.° 146. I hope some of you guys can help me identify the year of this fountain pen (and if it is original). Thanks and happy new year!
  4. collectorofmanythings

    Should I get a JoWo medium or a broad nib?

    So I have a pen which currently has a fine nib, but I would prefer a broader, wetter, and smoother experience. This brand uses JoWo nibs, and the fine was too feedbacky and fine, and it was a touch on the dry side. So this brand sells extra branded nib units, which are JoWo #6 18k nibs, and I was wondering whether I should buy a medium or a broad. I would like a smoother and broader (but I do not want a super broad nib) writing experience. So is the jump in nibs sizes from medium to broad, or fine to medium? Is the medium noticeably smoother? Thank you for your help, W. Major
  5. Can anyone explain to me why they like the designs so I can appreciate it more? I don’t mean to be rude or criticize people for what they like, I am just curious why you like the look of these pens. Just please reply! I really want to know what the appeal is. Thank you for your help! W. Major
  6. My great-grandmother gave me this set a few years ago and am trying to find a matching fountain pen to purchase. The issue is, I don’t know the model name. If anyone could help me with this I would really appreciate it! Thank you in advance, William
  7. So.. I finally got my shipment from Anderson Pens for restoring my little Wearever and everything went great! I put a new sac on (which is watertight) and put a new j-bar in (40mm) but since they didn’t have talc in stock I ordered it from a separate place, and it is due to arrive soon. Anyway, so as I was moving the barrel with the j-bar, I dropped it, and the j-bar moved a little bit further back (I didn’t know it could, I pushed it back as far as I could) leaving me not able to pull it out with the hemostat. Long story short, I gave it somebody who, despite me telling them explicitly several times not to open the lever when trying to pull it out, did it anyway, and pulled the lever and a little metal ring out of the pen, along with the j-bar. Can I get the lever back in? Is my pen broken? Could I do anything to fix it? And if I can, should I put it a slightly bigger j-bar? Thank you for all of your help. I really like the way this wrote, it was like a medium that was ground quite stub-like. So I really want it to be a functioning pen. Thank you for all of your help. Below is a picture of all the parts, including the lever and the ring.
  8. Looking into possibly buying a Santini... was wondering if any of you have greased the piston on it or know how to. Thanks for your help! W. H. Major
  9. I just impulsively got my first vintage pen, as well as my first pen needing restoration, at an antique store a few hours ago. But, I have absolutely no clue how to restore it. When I opened it, the sac was absolutely dust and the metal pressure bar fell out in two pieces. I expected the sac to be destroyed, but not the pressure bar! So, could anyone please make a step-by-step instructions for how to restore it, as well as what I will need and where to buy it? It would be much appreciated! Thank you!
  10. Please help beginners! Things like this are things that I’m sure many beginners look at to see which pen to first buy. Thank you to all who participate!
  11. collectorofmanythings

    What’s your grail pen?

    Hello! Just very interested in what your grail pens are.. no matter if it’s $50 or $10,000, I would be very interested to hear your responses. W. H. Major (My grail pen(s) [can’t choose one!] are the Waldmann Tuscany (18k Gold nib), Pineider Avatar UR Deluxe, Conway Stewart Duro (modern), and the Pilot Custom 823)
  12. collectorofmanythings

    Recommendations for a warm medium-dark brown ink!

    Hello! Unfortunately I can’t seem to find an ink that makes me completely happy. I would like a warm medium-dark brown ink, but that doesn’t have an olive-y look and has good shading. Noodler’s Walnut has a purplish undertone, Jacques Herbin Terre D’Ombre is too olive-y and on Apica paper it is so dark. Herbin Lie de Thé is a little too light, and Diamine Chocolate Brown is just a little bit too dark. I know this is very specific, but do any of you have recommendations? I am not sure if this is the place to put this post, if not please say so. Thank you so much for your help! W. H. Major
  13. collectorofmanythings

    Conway Stewart Dandy Opinions

    Hello! I’ve been looking into possibly getting a modern Conway Stewart. I personally prefer gold nibs, and like the look of their Dandy model. I was wondering if any of you have any opinions on modern Conway Stewarts and/or this model. I haven’t seen really any review for it anywhere. Thanks, W. Major
  14. Hello! I was wondering if any of you know or have ever tried to put a JoWo #5 size gold nib in an Esterbrook JR Pocket pen, specifically one from fpnibs.com. Thank you for your help! W. H. Major
  15. Hello! I love the look of many Conklin pens, especially the Duragraph, and the steel JoWo nibs are just fine, but I would love to put a gold nib in it. I saw that both Edison and FPR make gold nibs (I especially like FPR because it is $20 cheaper) in the #6 size and was wondering if anyone thinks this is a good idea or if anyone has ever tried it. Thank you for your help! W. H. Major I posted this in the wrong section before. Oops! Reposting to the right place, which I think is this one.
  16. InkNsap

    Identifying some pens

    Hi guys! I’m helping a coworker catalog some of her mum’s pens. She had a gigantic collection... I found some great resources for Parker and Sheaffer, I was wondering if there was something similar for Waterman? Here are some examples of her collection
  17. Sailor Kenshin

    Problem Re-Saccing Waltham Button-Filler

    DH and I recently began fiddling with old beater fountain pens. We are not after full restorations at this point, just writers with character, and have managed to re-sac seven lever-fillers, three of which have become excellent writers (and some of which need further work). Now we've moved to button-fillers, and we ran into a problem. I'm quoting him here: 'Notes & Questions: When reassembling this pen, if there is no sac fitted on the section, the section fits in the body properly (a pressure fit) and the button and pressure bar seem to work normally. However, once a sac is attached to the sections nipple, the section wont slide all the way into the body and slowly creeps out. There is a spongy feel when pressing the section in. Ive tried smaller and shorter sacs with no difference. Its the same problem even if the pressure bar is not installed in the body. Ive noticed a ring or ridge of gunk just inside the barrel at about the same depth of the sac nipple step on the section. Could this just be old sack and adhesive that should be scraped away? Its also where the end of the pressure bar wants to rest. Should I just give the barrel a good cleaning and scrape that ridge out or do I need a special, thin-walled sac for this pen?' Here is the pen, fully disassembled: http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/2014/8863/8804/Waltham_BF-fully_apart-640p.jpg This is looking into the barrel with the pressure bar in place: http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/2914/8863/8802/Waltham_BF-barrel_w_bar.JPG This is a tilted view of the barrel showing some of the ridge: http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/8214/8863/8800/Waltham_BF-barrel_tilted-640p.jpg Can anyone tell us what to do next? Thanks!
  18. Alexcat

    Nibmeister In The Uk?

    I remember reading about folks sending a pen to have the nib ground....I think there was someone in Edinburgh, but anywhere in UK is great : recommendations? I have a couple of pens which need attention: - a Mont Blanc Monte Rosa which has a nib so scratchy as to be unusable - an Omas piston filler which I took apart(I should not have done that....an old habit of taking things apart, but then not being able to get them back Together)and which I now can't reassemble. Grateful for ant help Thanks Alex
  19. Hi all: I am moving from cartridges to bottled ink. I want to tall you what I am doing and I will be as clear as possible. Last week, I filled my pen in there traditional way by inserting the nib/grip/converter of the pen into the bottle of ink. At that point, I turned the top part of the converter so that the plunger went up and down 2 or 3 times and after the last turn, the converter was filled with ink. (I did insert the nib/grip/converter into the ink until the grip was in the ink by about 1/4 of an inch) The problem I had was that the inside of the grip was filled with ink and even thought I patted it dry, it just seemed to have ink in it. Checking ink level in the converter after unscrewing it left me with Bay State Blue fingers. So, I have a question that might eliminate this problem and I was hoping to see if this makes sense. Can I simply fill the converter alone with ink and at that point, insert the nib/grip not the converter and have gravity allow the ink to flow downward into the feeder and nib, thus eliminating any ink going into the inside of the grip. This solution seems logical to me but logic is not always a good answer or an effective one. Any help on this greatly appreciated.





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