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Found 12 results

  1. Guest

    Heat Setting Nibs/feeds

    Is it safe to heat set vintage pens? Dip into hot water just deep enough to cover the nib and feed but not up to the section for about 30 seconds and then press the nib and feed together? Is this mainly for certain types of nibs?
  2. Is it common for fountain pens to be severely damaged by heat or cold when being shipped? If so, what are the most common forms of damage? Can anything be done to reduce this risk, such as using packages that can breathe or paying for faster shipping? The reason I ask this is because the first fountain pen I bought online was a gorgeous Parker vacumatic maxima. When it had arrived, the celluloid lacked shine, the cap band was loose (as if the plastic had shrunk), and the iridium on one tine was gone and on the other side it jarred sideways, as if a new piece had been soldered on. I suspected that it had been baked in the mail. Ever since then I have never purchased pens online in the winter or summer. Since Im from Minnesota, that is about eleven months of the year. Ive also noticed the smell of camphor when buying celluloid fountain pens. Does the amount of camphor that is baked out of the pen weaken it substantially or is it too small to make a difference? Thanks
  3. KingRoach

    Ebonite Feed Resistig Heat Setting

    Hi forum. I've restored a Swan pen which had a feed with an immencely huge gap. The feed has "SWAN" engraved on it, and is a good fit in the section, but I've heat set it several times and it keeps going back to making a gap, enough to put paper between the nib and feed (not as big as originally found but still big enough to cause leaks). I almost thought it may have been replaced at some point and that this may not be original feed (or nib) for this pen, but it's all Swan and the fittings are the same. I don't presume they had differently curved nibs or feed across the models of the same size. What is best to do? Best
  4. RayCornett

    Ir Surface Thermometers

    To those who use IR thermometers to test tempuratures of sections and other pen parts when using heat to loosen them - Which one do you use/recommend?
  5. heleneleh

    Smell From Heated Ink

    One of my daughter's inks hardened and she took it upon herself to microwave it, thinking it would liquify. I realized she was doing this about 5-10 seconds in, and stopped her immediately. The smell emanating from the inkwell and the microwave, though, is horrific. Does anyone know if there is any danger in the fumes produced by doing this?? The ink just says "Aladine" on the front. Thanks!!
  6. Oslowe

    Heater Hack

    Discovered a small screw on the plastic shroud, and one thing led to another. Was reading the excelent thread pinned in Esterbrook on resacing and remembered this rig I built. The key was cuting 4 slots in the 1½" piece of copper pipe and mushrooming it over the tapered end of the beast. I stopped at 2 screws to secure it. A 'T' and some caps, and a few short lengths of pipe were lightly sweated together. The remaining open part of the tee forms a nice friction fit that allows ajustment to any angle. Hardest part is calculating the size the slit needs to be. The formula is simple enough, but much easier in mm's. It works like a Swiss lawnmower (I hope those are good.) same amount of heated air, just directed in a nice fan shape for heating just the shallacked section. She stays in the bullpen more nowdays (Digitall Infinitely Adjustable heat gun and others takeing over her duties. I would build one again, sometimes you need that sliver of verry hot air nothing else will deliver. It lives a little further off the desk as shown because it does run hot. The next project comming is a fairly large write-up on whittling Vacumatic pump pellet cups out of Papermate Inksticks. Some times I enjoy making pen tools and accessories, as much as fixing the pens. Dad used to say, if you cant make a part or a specil tool... Hell, whwt makes you think you can fix stuff."
  7. Cyclopentadiene

    Uber Stuck Section - Help Request

    Hi all, Got a parker victory a couple weeks ago. Pen looked in fantastic condition but section just will not come off. Took the filler button and bar out of the back. Soaked the section. Ultrasonically cleaned it in water, soaked it in 1% ammonia, then 10%, then ultrasonic cleaned it in full strength as it just wouldn't budge... the above all over four days with drying out in between. I've tried heating the section too with a hair drier but still nothing - am I missing something here? Thanks, Badger
  8. Hi, I recently received a Conway Stewart Dinkie 550 which I purchased online; it was described as needing a new sac. I don't know much about casein, but read this on the CS website: Firstly, if I can't apply heat to the pen, how am I going to unstick the barrel from the section, which appear to be shellacked (spelling?) together? I'll have to do this in order to fit the new sac. Secondly, how does one clean the section of a casein pen without dismantling the nib and feed? I had intended to flush it out with a bulb syringe - if it will fit, the pen is so tiny - but wonder if this will affect the casein. The nib is great, I've dip-tested it: it's flexy, which shocked me as I've never written with a flexy pen before. I may gently smooth the nib a little, I have lots of experience of doing this with very cheap pens, but this will be the first gold nib I've smoothed. I would like to turn this pen into a good everyday writer and any advice you can give me about servicing and caring for this pen will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Catherine
  9. I noticed a really interesting phenomena the other day. I've got into printing my own dot grid, and noticed that when I did this through my laser printer. Whilst testing the printing, I ran some cheap copier paper through it. Now this same copier paper is awful to write on. It exhibits far to much feathering to write on. When I printed the dot grid on this paper however, the heat from the laser printer seemed to drastically improve it's performance. This evening, I decided to test my hypothesis with an iron and the same copier paper to see what effect it would have. I ironed half the sheet, and left the other half un-ironed. The first photo is written with a Visconti HS stub, with Diamine Salamander. This has a really heavy ink flow, so thought it would be ideal for the test. The second image is from the un-ironed segment of the page. Anyone else come across this phenomena? I get the feeling that this is what Rhodia are doing to their paper..!
  10. Guest

    Heat Guns And Metal Overlays

    Tried deleting this post. I solved my own problem However, this subject may be useful for others. In general is it ok to use heat guns on pens with metal overlays such as silver or gold or any other metal? Would advice can you give for doing so. Especially since the metal can be so close to the area you need to heat.
  11. WirsPlm

    Best Heat Guns?

    I'm looking into getting a heat gun, and was wondering if anyone has a specific brand or type that they particularly like (or any other advice)? I know that I want a variable temperature heat gun that can go down to 140 degrees, any recommendations for stores or brands that are good places to start?
  12. Has anyone here come across a case of ink bubbling(?) through the breather hole while the pen is not in use? I've seen it happen to my pens over the past few days (we're having a heat-wave here in the Netherlands, and indoor temperatures have gone over 30C), and I was wondering if there's any cause for concern (gunk forming?).

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