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Found 11 results

  1. parapadakis

    What type of cork is best for seals?

    Hello, I'm about to make my own cork seals for the first time. In this case it is for a Safety Pen, but there are also a few Onoto plungers in waiting. My question is this: What is the correct/best type of cork to use for seals? Does it make a difference? many thanks George
  2. NeleS

    Lady Huntco

    Hi all, I bought a fountain pen and am searching for more information about it now. This is the information I got from the seller: "lady fountain pen, Czechoslovakia around 1935, excellent huntco made in usa alloy tipped fine, length 11.8cm, diameter in center 1.1cm, diameter on top 1.2cm, functional pump" Does anyone knows this brand, this pen? There is "LADY" engraved in the cap, nothing on the clip. on the nib is: "HUNTCO" "MADE IN USA" "ALLOY TIPPED FINE" here is what I found about the manufacturer of the nib: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2030918?oq=hunt+co+alloy+tipped+fine I am also a bit worried about the piston. The pen was empty when I got it. When cleaning it I noticed that it didn't take a lot of water, it didn't held the water either. So no vacuum... After flushing it a few times it did hold more water and kept the water in the pen. Some dirt that came out was ink, (it dissolved eventually), but one tiny bit was floating, so I guess that was cork . After a while filled whith water the pen seemed to hold all the water. So I filled it with ink, and it writes well! Does anyone knows when it is necessary to replace the cork? What if more pieces of cork let go? bye, Nele
  3. Some context for the adventure here. The question comes in the last paragraph. I bought a long model Onoto 6234 from Spain recently, expecting it would need some service work. The pen looked to be in very fine shape externally, so that was promising. The plunger was extremely difficult to push down. Before taking it further apart, I removed the section to add some silicone grease to the barrel, as an experiment. Now the plunger moved very easily, but with no suitable 'pop' of vacuum breaking. Removing the rod showed that the "cup washer" was made from two bits of what appears to be bicycle inner tube (it curves floppily on one radius) hand cut with a knife into a random polygon roughly approximating a circle, with no cone washer for support. OK, I can replace that. A lack of ink in the barrel or section suggested the earlier repairer had found their effort was not entirely successful. I noted also that the plunger cone pin had rust around it! Pushing it out, I found that my predecessor had resorted to a bit of metal for the pin, and not a rust-proof bit, for this pin immersed in dyed water. Also, the rod was bent, presumably from trying to force down the ungreased piston. Well, it is ebonite with a wire core. I am trying to ease its bend at the moment. It may need replacement. Next, I turned to the cork seal at the top of the barrel. Hmm, no seal screw. That does not help. So, to the question: Does anyone know the threading used for the seal screw on top of an Onoto barrel? Given they used 5BA for the rod, I am conjecturing it will be 0BA or 1BA (but normal RH thread). If it is, I may be able to make another.
  4. KingRoach

    Amicus Gold

    My understanding is that this is German, and so I'm posting this here: One of my favourite pens now even though quite a few things about it were things I wouldn't have chosen for myself. I am a complete sucker for something off-stream or weird or strange or one-off or just simply uncommon. The very REASON why I bought this pen was that it has a cork piston. I was like.. "Oh.. cork! Isn't that an old technology that is supposed to rot after some use? I'll have this." The cork and ink window were clean as new. I have since inked it up with black Parker Quink. The aesthetics of the pen make me fall in love with it rather quickly. Black, the pattern, the gold, the pattern, the blind cap, the clip, the pattern... not a big fan of having the name of the pen engraved on the cap but you get used to it. At least it's not the name of an association. The section is engraved EF and 3, which is likely the size of the nib. The nib has very noticeable flex despite still being a sturdy hardish nib. The feed is beautiful too. Everything about this pen works well together. Writing experience: scratchy as hell but that is due to slight misalignment. I may just have fixed this, though. If flexed, it is harder to control the EF lines. Ink flow is HUGE, and the nib and feed are always SOAKED! When I write with this pen, I feel like I'm writing with a soaked dip nib, and I love that. The section, length and girth are made as if they had my hand to design a pen for. I couldn't have made one like this for myself myself. Amicus Gold, 14kt no.3 EF. I've now run out of the first fill of ink. Ran out rather quickly as this is, as I said, an extremely wet pen. Do I change the ink, or stick to only one single ink for this pen? I'm thinking about the cork and any required maintenance. I hope you like it.
  5. truthpil

    Osmia Blind Cap Stuck

    Hi All, The crown of my collection, a 1930s Osmia Supra 76 EF, is having some trouble and I could use your help. It worked perfectly when I bought it, but it had the originally cork on it so I filled it with distilled water and put it away for a couple months just in case the cork needed some reviving. I just took it out to use it and to my horror the blind cap won't unscrew. When I try to do so it turns the now incredibly stiff piston a little until both are totally stuck. If I try to unscrew the blind cap even more the piston makes a clicking sound but the cap just keeps turning without unscrewing. Also the water I had filled it with has vanished. Did I oversoak the cork or something? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my favorite pen and an amazing writer. Thanks!
  6. Hi, I have a vintage Omas extra in grey celluloid a beauty in my opinion. It uses a cork with the piston mechanism, but the cork is no good anymore is falling apart and is leaking. Can anyone help me with some guides to a) how to disassemble the piston mechanism and how to replace the cork? Much much appreciated https://imgur.com/a/qv09R https://i.imgur.com/ET7vm0U.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aukO6BS.jpg
  7. Hi everyone ! Last week I was so lucky to find a vintage Pelikan 100 for a very low price. Since the piston was stuck I set myself to the task of repairing the poor thing. Everything went well so far; I managed to get the piston moving and out of the body. Now I want to replace the washer with a cork. My question (see picture) : Can the end of the piston (where the arrow is pointing) be screwed of, and if so do I turn it clockwise or counterclockwise ? If it can't be screwed of then how do I put the cork in place ? Since I am new at this any help is welcome. Best, Peter
  8. DrumBalint

    Old Piston Filler Repair

    Hello everyone! I recently aquired a vintage unmarked piston filler with a cork piston seal. The only info it had was the nib which says "HUNTCO MADE IN USA". Of what I could find about that it seems to be made here in Hungary with this imported nib, and is probably twice my age, which dates it to the 50s or 60s. The problem is, when I fully retract the piston, it loses vacuum, and it feels like the barrel gets wider (stretched?) where the piston seal was resting the gods know for how long. Addig a frakload of silicone grease helps a bit, but won't solve the problem. After a week of use, the cork seems flexible again.. I'm considering replacing the cork, but I'm not sure it will deal with the streched (?) barrel. Any thoughts/experiences/ideas?
  9. Yesterday i've attempted to repair a waterman 42 safety pen for the first time . everything has gone fine until i reached the cork seal. Of course it was old, full of dirty and almost in pieces. I managed to make a well-fitting one from a nice piece of cork but i've read somewhere that i'll need to boil it in paraffine or wax to make it works properly, but i can't find a complete description of the whole process. I've also read that someone use o-rings instead of a cork seal. Can someone link me a source where i can find/buy them? (possibly in Europe ) Thank you for the help!
  10. Raskovnik

    Piston Cork For Omas 361T?

    Hi all, I took apart an Omas 361T and found the cork is no longer usable. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement or should I just use O-rings in it's place? Thanks Raskovnik
  11. Just recently ordered a vintage German pen from the 30's on the Bay. (FYI, it was a BIN). The ad says it was completely and professionally restored. The image shows a cork "gasket" in the ink window. Questions: Do I need to avoid specific inks because of any caustic/destructive nature?What inks are considered more "gentle", especially toward vintage pens?Would (brightly?) colored inks be more inclined to cause problems?Would I be better staying with the black/blue/blue black inks?What brands might be better to consider? Will post a picture of the pen when it arrives from the Netherlands - around 6/18. Thanks for you help and insights.





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