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Found 11 results

  1. Greetings, I have a Parker 50 Falcon with a bent nib, and although I gauge the chance of a perfect repair very slim, I will try my best. The initial problem was the glued in feed. I applied all the reasonable force as I dare, but it didn't budge. And then I remembered the coefficient of linear thermal expansion! Approximate numbers are, Stainless 16 X 10-6 and ABS Thermoplastic 73 X 10-6 (meter per meter per degree kelvin) So cooling it down will make the plastic shrink more than the stainless. Besides that, adhesives generally don't perform well cold. So I made sure it was completely dry
  2. I soaked my the various parts of my Jinhao X750 in some ammonia and it unglued the feed housing from the grip tube. Is there anything special I should use to glue it back? Thanks!
  3. aos11409

    Resin Pen Break

    About a year ago, I bought a coral Nemosine Singularity. I know these are pretty cheap pens, but I was curious what kind of glue I would use to fix it or if it was worth the effort at all. As far as I can tell the material is simply "resin". The pen broke fairly cleanly at the base of the threads at the cap clip (picture attached). Thanks!
  4. I have a very rare nib assembly from a vintage Capless fountain pen that unfortunately suffered terrible damage. The feed completely snapped, near the point where the feed goes into the metal assembly. I've been unable to source a replacement. Seeking out a candidate pen having cosmetic damage that's pointless to restore, but having an intact nib assembly, has been going nowhere. I'm circling back to the idea of repair... and I understand that cyanoacrylate adhesives ("super glue") may be strong enough for the initial application but ends up compromised by sustained exposure to moisture
  5. Anybody has suggestions as to how one could obtain this glue in the US? BTW, is it in fact better for fixing cracks in BHR than Loctite 480? Thanks! :-)
  6. I have a totally transparent Kaweco Sport fountain pen and it is obvious that there is wasted room in the barrel beyond the end of the short international cartridge. I know I can modify a cartridge with a sac to make my own converter or I could use the pen as an eyedropper. The fact is that I like using cartridges and refilling them. Simply, I want to hack 2 cartridges to make a longer 'just fit' cartridge. I've already done that, but am looking for a suggestion to glue it back together. I thought MEK or acetone would work to solvent weld it, but it did nothing. Does anybody know what ty
  7. I was reading this thread, which is mainly a wonderful example of how firmly held opinions can be, but there's a side issue in it that I think is worth recording here. There's a couple of threads in RQ&A recently lamenting the difficulty of getting some Vacumatic fillers out of the barrels. I myself have cast aspersions at the foolish home repairmen who have adulterated their Vacumatics with some kind of adhesive, contrary to the current received wisdom. However... In that thread above, a scanned page of a Vacumatic Repair Manual (date not mentioned) appears (page 3, entry #78), and
  8. ARVA

    Almost Cracked Sac

    Hi, I have an old Parker squeeze converter which at first sight seems to work well, holds a lot of ink and is not leaking. However when I squeeze it the rubber has some cracks in one part , the rubber is not yet cracked completely but sooner or later it will. I can still use it and it also feels flexible. I was thinking if there is any preventing work or something. Can I melt the rubber with the hot red point of a needle so the crack is no longer spreading ? Or can I glue it somehow? Thank you!
  9. Let me outline my problem so my question will make sense... I have a no-name gold filled pen with a flex nib that I got for what I could afford off the ___bay. (That is to explain why I am not taking the exceedingly rational course of just packing this up and sending it to someone who knows what he is doing.) I managed (through injudicious use of tools in an attempt to remove a piece of pressure bar) to break what seems to be the Bakelite part of the barrel which is threaded so the cap can screw on, and smooth on the inside so the section can fit in. Little pieces of this black material
  10. Hi all, I've recently taken possession of a mint/near-mint black visulated Parker Vacumatic, dated 3rd quarter of 1946. While it doesn't any longer have the two stickers on the cap, it still has the remaining circular residue. I attempted to use cold water and a bit of microfibre cloth to get it off, but it's pretty damn stubborn. I've done a search of the forums and have tried heating it (very gently!) with a hairdryer, but I didn't dare push any further lest the whole cap light up in my face. Rather stupidly, I tried a very light localised application of WD-40, before realising that it
  11. Hi, I've got a nice old gold-nibbed Wearever with a cool pattern in mostly great shape except that the warped, shrunken button-filler nipple that the blind cap screws onto has fallen out of the pen. The blind cap screws on perfectly, but the lower part, which needs to be glued into the pen body is floppy loose. So, two questions: -- what should I use to glue this in? -- how do I do it in a way that has the blind cap fitting onto the pen correctly, but doesn't also glue the blind cap on? Thanks for any help or suggestions! Gretchen

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