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Found 12 results

  1. While trying to fill a Pelikan Go! the piston just turned off right into my hand! It is not my pen, but I have permission to re-glue the piston. Is this safe to do, and if so what type of glue should I use? The pen is plastic. Thanks.
  2. Greetings, I have a Parker 50 Falcon with a bent nib, and although I gauge the chance of a perfect repair very slim, I will try my best. The initial problem was the glued in feed. I applied all the reasonable force as I dare, but it didn't budge. And then I remembered the coefficient of linear thermal expansion! Approximate numbers are, Stainless 16 X 10-6 and ABS Thermoplastic 73 X 10-6 (meter per meter per degree kelvin) So cooling it down will make the plastic shrink more than the stainless. Besides that, adhesives generally don't perform well cold. So I made sure it was completely dry, stuck it is liquid nitrogen for about 30 seconds, felt a small pop, and the nib / section came right off. I could have tried a regular freezer first, but LN is more fun! Everything warmed back up with no damage. http://www.maryhatay.com/Mark/Fountain-Pens/Mixed-Pens/i-2fFH7tx/0/L/Parker%2050%20nib-L.jpg
  3. I soaked my the various parts of my Jinhao X750 in some ammonia and it unglued the feed housing from the grip tube. Is there anything special I should use to glue it back? Thanks!
  4. aos11409

    Resin Pen Break

    About a year ago, I bought a coral Nemosine Singularity. I know these are pretty cheap pens, but I was curious what kind of glue I would use to fix it or if it was worth the effort at all. As far as I can tell the material is simply "resin". The pen broke fairly cleanly at the base of the threads at the cap clip (picture attached). Thanks!
  5. I have a very rare nib assembly from a vintage Capless fountain pen that unfortunately suffered terrible damage. The feed completely snapped, near the point where the feed goes into the metal assembly. I've been unable to source a replacement. Seeking out a candidate pen having cosmetic damage that's pointless to restore, but having an intact nib assembly, has been going nowhere. I'm circling back to the idea of repair... and I understand that cyanoacrylate adhesives ("super glue") may be strong enough for the initial application but ends up compromised by sustained exposure to moisture from ink. But then I learned about Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder. This is supposed to provide all the strength and resilience of a quality epoxy while being very moisture resistant. I'm wondering if this might work. There's also a new PlasticWeld glue by JB Weld... but I'm not sure if it's appropriate. Is this a futile pursuit, or has anyone here tried these glues to fix something like a feed?
  6. Anybody has suggestions as to how one could obtain this glue in the US? BTW, is it in fact better for fixing cracks in BHR than Loctite 480? Thanks! :-)
  7. I have a totally transparent Kaweco Sport fountain pen and it is obvious that there is wasted room in the barrel beyond the end of the short international cartridge. I know I can modify a cartridge with a sac to make my own converter or I could use the pen as an eyedropper. The fact is that I like using cartridges and refilling them. Simply, I want to hack 2 cartridges to make a longer 'just fit' cartridge. I've already done that, but am looking for a suggestion to glue it back together. I thought MEK or acetone would work to solvent weld it, but it did nothing. Does anybody know what type of plastic the cartridges are made from and therefore the preferred adhesive to get a secure leak-free bond? Thanks
  8. I was reading this thread, which is mainly a wonderful example of how firmly held opinions can be, but there's a side issue in it that I think is worth recording here. There's a couple of threads in RQ&A recently lamenting the difficulty of getting some Vacumatic fillers out of the barrels. I myself have cast aspersions at the foolish home repairmen who have adulterated their Vacumatics with some kind of adhesive, contrary to the current received wisdom. However... In that thread above, a scanned page of a Vacumatic Repair Manual (date not mentioned) appears (page 3, entry #78), and I will quote from it: I boggle. I swoon. Then I go and check my own resources. Let me read from the 1946 Parker manual (p. 14-- this is in the section regarding "51" refits, but the Vacumatic chapter just says to refer back to this): This '"51" cement' is mentioned again with reference to fixing the hood on that model and rendering it leak-proof. What exactly it might be is not explained. Looking at the section for reassembly of Vacs in the 1953 manual, we find no mention of anything other than the lubricant being applied to the filler unit before reassembly, so obviously Parker after some long years of sober consideration decided to stop inflicting this treatment on the pens. I do not suggest that using shellac or any other gunk on Vacumatic fillers is appropriate; this is not a cry to return to the old ways. I just thought that there might be some comfort for those struggling to get one of the dang things loose that it might be stuck in there because at one time Parker told everyone it was appropriate to glue it in.
  9. ARVA

    Almost Cracked Sac

    Hi, I have an old Parker squeeze converter which at first sight seems to work well, holds a lot of ink and is not leaking. However when I squeeze it the rubber has some cracks in one part , the rubber is not yet cracked completely but sooner or later it will. I can still use it and it also feels flexible. I was thinking if there is any preventing work or something. Can I melt the rubber with the hot red point of a needle so the crack is no longer spreading ? Or can I glue it somehow? Thank you!
  10. Let me outline my problem so my question will make sense... I have a no-name gold filled pen with a flex nib that I got for what I could afford off the ___bay. (That is to explain why I am not taking the exceedingly rational course of just packing this up and sending it to someone who knows what he is doing.) I managed (through injudicious use of tools in an attempt to remove a piece of pressure bar) to break what seems to be the Bakelite part of the barrel which is threaded so the cap can screw on, and smooth on the inside so the section can fit in. Little pieces of this black material are missing. Given my latheless state, after much consideration I decided that probably my best bet is to fit a collar in there and then do what I can with epoxy to repair the thread part, but to rely on the collar to keep the section in. Obviously this means the section will need a little sanding after all is said and done, but I can do that by hand. Looking around at what's here, it seems to me that part of the barrel of one of my 20 cent pre-FP life Write Bros. Pens will probably do the trick. Plan is to carefully mark what part of the slightly sloping barrel I need for this, cut it, make sure it fits, and then glue it in there. The question is what glue to use. The barrel is soft, injection molded plastic, the other stuff really strikes me as being possibly Bakelite. I do understand, as I mentioned earlier, that the optimal fix would be packing it neatly and sending it off to someone who knows what he or she is doing, but the pen was on a par with the rest of my pen budget, and a repair will require a skill and amount of time that will exceed several times the price of the pen, and which is not in the budget. Any advice will be appreciated! Thank you T
  11. Hi all, I've recently taken possession of a mint/near-mint black visulated Parker Vacumatic, dated 3rd quarter of 1946. While it doesn't any longer have the two stickers on the cap, it still has the remaining circular residue. I attempted to use cold water and a bit of microfibre cloth to get it off, but it's pretty damn stubborn. I've done a search of the forums and have tried heating it (very gently!) with a hairdryer, but I didn't dare push any further lest the whole cap light up in my face. Rather stupidly, I tried a very light localised application of WD-40, before realising that it was most likely definitely a bad idea, then proceeded to soak the cap briefly and wash off any residue. At this stage, am I correct in thinking that the best way to proceed is with some lighter fluid? I noticed a lot of support for naptha, but I think naptha is a North American term, and insofar as I know, we in Australia don't have any sort of direct equivalent. I think Shellite would be the closest. I'm guessing if all else fails, I'll need to proceed with micromesh + microgloss!
  12. Hi, I've got a nice old gold-nibbed Wearever with a cool pattern in mostly great shape except that the warped, shrunken button-filler nipple that the blind cap screws onto has fallen out of the pen. The blind cap screws on perfectly, but the lower part, which needs to be glued into the pen body is floppy loose. So, two questions: -- what should I use to glue this in? -- how do I do it in a way that has the blind cap fitting onto the pen correctly, but doesn't also glue the blind cap on? Thanks for any help or suggestions! Gretchen

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