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Found 13 results

  1. Hi all. Would you help me to compilate a list of pens that have a #8 nib, that is to say, the size of a MB 149 or Pelikan M1000 nib? I am interested in both vintage and modern pens from all over the world. Of course, if you know where such a list exists, just let me know. Thanks. MB 149 Pelikan M1000 MB Hemingway Soennecken 111 Extra Matador Garant 998 Goldfink Imperial and Wunderfuller by Tom Westerich. Astoria Goliath (new batch) Delta Dolce Vita. OS Additions from the thread: Onoto Mammoth Soennecken Präsident Waterman 18 and 58 Montegrappa Extra y Montegrappa Extra 1930 GVFC Pen of the Year and Wood Intuition Mabie Todd Big Blackbird Osmia Supra 448 Newton Pens Orville
  2. Karmachanic

    M1000 - Piston weight?

    I've looked online to no avail. Does anyone know the weight of the M1000 piston mechanism? Thank you!
  3. I just acquired a Pelikan M1000 with an F nib, that I inked with Pelikan 4001 Königsblau (Royal Blue). It is a good combination, the pen is quite a wet writer, the ink rather dry so it yields a proper linewidth on my preferred paper. But.... Pelikan 4001 Königsblau is not the most exciting ink imo. I tried Iroshizuko Tsuki-Yo, which I find nicer, but that is a wet ink and it shows: line width increased too much to my taste. Next, Waterman Mysterious Blue. Good line width, but again, not the kind of colour that really impresses me. Together with the pen, I bought a bottle of KWZ #5 Blue, the iron-gallish type. I like that colour, have it in another pen with an F nib now. But I am a but worried to use this ink as the go-to ink for the M1000. I know it's only slightly acidic, not too much irongall in it.... but still. This is my first Pelikan, and my first bottle of KWZ ink. Waddayathink... should I let these get together, or not?
  4. The-Thinker

    Pelikan M800 Vs M1000

    If you had the chance, which pen would you get so that you enjoy writing and call it a "keeper"
  5. The (Japanese) Elephant in the Room Pilot Custom Urushi I won’t bore you with the specifications, basic descriptions, or construction components of this pen, because they have been covered in other reviews of this pen. Instead, I’d like to tell you how I feel about owning this pen, which I received about a month ago... Long enough for the honeymoon to be over and to be able to take a critical look at this pen. Some background: I have been using fountain pens since I was about ten years old. I have a small collection of top-drawer pens, including Montblanc 146 & 149, Pelikan M800 & M1000, Visconti Homo Sapiens Dark Age Maxi, Nakaya Neo Standard, Parker 51’s and the ubiquitous Lamy 2000. I’ve always loved thick pens, and at my age, arthritis is starting to develop so I love them even more. I began searching for a new pen because while I was happy with the width of the grip on my 149, I was unhappy with its length. Likewise, I liked the length of the grip on the M1000, but not the width. I purchased the Nakaya six months ago and love the urushi finish, so I focused my search on Japanese pens. With some advice, I zeroed in on the Pilot Custom Urushi. I purchased my pen from nibs.com and was shocked when the card was personally signed by John Mottishaw, indicating that he set up this pen. (The other two pens I ordered from them were adjusted by his team and I’ve heard through forums that he is reducing his work. I feel lucky. Thanks, John!) NIB: The pen has a huge and wonderful medium nib, which writes very similarly in width to the Pelikan M1000’s fine nib. It has a touch of bounce, which is much less pronounced than my M1000 and Visconti Dream Touch nibs. I find that I have to pay very close attention to the latter two nibs because they require very precise pressure, which can be fatiguing in long writing sessions. I do not discern any feedback with this nib, which is slightly disappointing when compared to my Nakaya, but something I can live without. GRIP: The most important part of this pen for me and its main selling point. For me, it is utter perfection. It is slightly longer than the M1000, very similar to the width of the 149, and fits my hand like it was custom made for me. (Maybe that’s the “Custom” in the name.) The slight taper is very comfortable as well. I was worried that the gold band embedded in the grip could be felt, but I was pleasantly surprised that it feels seamless. I am able to write for hours without my fingers cramping or my knuckles burning. I couldn’t be happier with the grip on this pen! Here, the pens are aligned by the threads so you can really compare the grips: FIT & FINISH: This pen feels like it was made under a microscope. The build quality and tolerances are quite literally amazing and much better than any of the other pens that I own. When I unscrew the barrel to access the converter, I can feel absolutely no feedback. (I had to look to make sure it was coming apart as it was that smooth.) The metal bands feel cool to the hand and not plasticky like on the M1000. Under a loupe, the black filling in the lettering on the cap band appears to have been perfectly applied and the contrast with the gold looks really great. However, the black lettering makes the clip on the cap look cheap and out of place because PILOT is merely stamped into the metal and not filled with black paint like on the band. I would have greatly preferred the clip and band to match. Also not matching are the end cap on the barrel and the finial on the cap. The cap finial has a gold band while the body’s does not, and to me, it makes the barrel look unfinished and overlooked. URUSHI: If I didn’t know better, I would have thought that this pen was made of high quality plastic. I cannot easily discern what is urushi and what is plastic. It feels very highly polished and is one of the most reflective pens that I own. I ordered mine in black instead of vermillion because my brain has a hard time filling a red pen with blue ink (I know, I’m strange), so the vermillion pens may have a more pronounced urushi look. This also may be a testament to the quality and finishing of the plastic as well (no seams or manufacturing marks). I would have been quite happy to pay a lot less for this pen sans urushi, but do appreciate the amount of labor that went into creating this writing instrument. CAP: This is the most ridiculously, comically large cap ever. It is so big that I can’t store this pen in any of my pen cases, including my Montblanc single pen case made for the 149. (The case microscratched the cap while pulling it in and out.) It fits into my Nakaya pen kimono, but that parking spot is reserved for the Neo Standard. I found a folding pen case at Montblanc that it fits into, but because of the size of the cap and necessary storage case, I do not see myself taking this pen with me when I travel. A shame, really. FINAL THOUGHTS: If I had to buy this pen over again, I’d absolutely do it. While I have some quibbles about the pen overall, the wonderful feel in my hand and fantastic nib are what makes a great pen great… At least for me.
  6. hello my fellow FP lovers, I am not sure if this topic has been posted earlier, but my question is if its possible to get a custom Pelikan M1000 body be made or if anyone has tried this experiment, or if there is someone out there who makes custom Pelikan m1000 bodies. I know it sounds adventurous to pursue such an endeavour but I can't seem to get this idea out of my mind. Currently own Pelikan M1000 Broad nib Pelikan m400 Tortoise Shell white Pelikan 140 Medium Thanks for reading Fez
  7. Hi, I am Dinesh. I am using a Lamy Safari in Extra Fine nib from February 2018. Till then used Camlin 36 Fountain Pen which i am having as a treasure from the past as it gave me many memories. Now i am planning to purchase a Pelikan M1000 as i am exposed to many brands of fountain pen in our forum. I am from chennai and i have inquired WilliamPenn store at VR Mall, Chennai and got a quote of Rs.46000/- for M1000. Now chennai has around 70-75% humidity and it is just start of summer. It will increase as summer progresses. I am worried about buying Pelikan as i read a post which is way back in 2008 about barrel rupture may be due to humidity issues in our forum here. Ambient temperature will reach 40 oC. I plan to use it as a daily driver. Can i be confident about the pen holding up in a hot and humid chennai. It is going to be big chunk of money invested in a pen, i am worried since i like M1000 very much as it is highly praised in our forum. Is it ok to leap to M1000 which i think is a top of the line luxury pen? Your suggestions please.
  8. Hi, I am Dinesh. I am using a Lamy Safari from last year. Till then used Camlin 36. Now i am going to purchase a Pelikan M1000. I have asked about it in the introductory post itself. Sorry for this. I am from chennai and i have inquired WilliamPenn store at VR Mall, Chennai and got a quote of Rs.46000/- for M1000. Now chennai has around 70-75% humidity and it is just start of summer. It will increase as summer progresses. I am worried about buying Pelikan as i read a post which is way back in 2008 about barrel rupture may be due to humidity in our forum here. Can i be confident about the pen holding up in a hot and humid chennai. It is going to be big chunk of money invested in a pen, i am worried since i like M1000. Is it ok to leap to M1000 which i think is a top of the line luxury pen? Your suggestions please.
  9. Appearance & Design (10) – Large, simple, and elegant. Beautiful contrast between mirror finish on the ebonite and the rhodium plating on the simple section ring, nib, and clip. Construction & Quality (10) – Well constructed. Wonderfully smooth threading between section and barrel. O-ring on section gives a confident tight connection when threading in section to barrel. Flawless polished finish on the ebonite that looks to be at least a mile deep. The ebonite has excellent hand feel - warm to the touch - begs to be used (this is even before one considers the nib). Weight & Dimensions (8) – Large pen (See comparison to Mont Blanc 149, Pelikan M1000). Surprisingly light for the size. Excellent dimensions for those enjoying larger pens (length and girth). Nib & Performance (10) – This #9 21k Sailor Nib is ridiculous. Same size nib as the 149 though the 21k vs. 18k, tine length, and adjustments to the nib make for the most amazing writing experience on fountain pen friendly paper and cheap paper alike. The nib glides across the paper while also seemingly grabbing the paper just enough to let you know you are using a fountain pen. The description of feedback similar to writing with an old-school #2 pencil is apt. The nib does allow for line variation with regular writing without stressing the nib to any significant degree. Works with all inks trialled thus far: Sailor, Noodler's BBKF, Iroshizuku, J. Herbin. This is an amazing nib - worth the price of admission. Filling System & Maintenance (5) - For the price one expects to have some technology and effort put into the filling system - not so much with this pen. The converter holds an acceptable amount of ink for routine business or school work x a few days. For travel one would need to bring additional ink. Upside is the easy of cleaning and maintenance. If adjusts could be made to make this an eyedropper - that would be most excellent. Cost & Value (8) – Expensive pen ~$550.00. As stated above, the nib is worth the price of admission. Conclusion (Final score, 8.5) - I truly enjoy using this pen - daily. I would buy it again and plan to get one with the Naginata Togi nib (another amazing Sailor nib that I enjoy on the 1911). Sailor KOP Ebonite, Visconti HS Bronze, Pelikan M1000, MB 149, Sailor 1911, Platinum 3776, ASA Porus Sailor KOP Ebonite, Visconti HS Bronze, Pelikan M1000, MB 149, Sailor 1911, Platinum 3776, ASA Porus Sailor KOP Ebonite, MB 149, Pelikan M1000 Sailor KOP Ebonite, MB 149, Pelikan M1000 Brothers from another mother - Sailor KOP Ebonite and MB 149 #9 Nibs
  10. Well my Sailor King of Pen arrived today and I thought I would share my thoughts and first impressions between that pen and my Pelikan M1000. First packaging, both pens come with nice packaging Pelikan comes with a rather large round plastic box and Sailor a more traditional square box. The Sailor edges out the Pelikan because it looks cleaner and won't take up as much storage space. Both pens look great, the nib on the Sailor looks looks a little more "custom". The Pelikan is a piston filled pen whereas the Sailor uses an ink converter, Pelikan wins out in this area. Now to the nuts and bolts, writing. Both pens were filled with Montblanc permanent blue ink and I writing on Rhodia paper. Writing in the normal position surprisingly the Pelikan lays out a crisper, fine and darker line then the Sailor. When the ink drys the Sailor looks to be not as deep a blue and slightly broader. The Pelikan is definitely wetter that the Sailor which is my personal preference. I'm a little new at this but I believe I can write with the sailor upside down (plastic side of the nib facing up, please let me know if this is not proper). The sailor lays down a fine line that is unbelievable. Once again very light but very fine line, about one third the width of the Pelikan. The sailor is scratchy in this configuration but what a fine line. The nib on the Pelikan is more flexible and broader lines are possible with the Pelikan, sometime though I noticed the nib seems to flex when a little side pressure is applied. The Pelikan lays down the same line regardless of the writing configuration, it isn't scratchy at all in any writing position. One small factor that I did notice was the Sailor needs to be posted pretty firmly or else the cap will not only come loose but it will fall off, no such problem with my Pelikan. Also the Pelikan only required a 3/4's a turn to remove the cap and the Sailor requires 2-1/2 turns to accomplish the same. I much prefer the Pelikan in that regard. Overall I prefer the Pelikan M1000 over the Sailor KOP for normal letter writing, if I want a pen that gives me some flexibility in my line widths the Sailor wins hands down. As I use these pens more I may update this review. Thanks, Bill Kiel
  11. There have been many threads here listing the “flagship” pens of various well known brands (see this, this, and this). I’m posting this simply to organize the information a little bit more attractively. To be clear, I define “flagship” as follows: A “flagship” pen is a regular production model (i.e., not a limited or special edition), which is generally the largest, most expensive, and most visibly advertised item in a brand’s inventory. Where no single pen satisfies all the criteria, a judgment call may have to be made on what (if any) product is the “flagship” for a particular brand. Obviously, a brand calling one of its own products its “flagship” trumps other considerations. Any corrections, additions, or suggestions are appreciated. Brand Flagship Entry Level Other Notable Lines Country Aurora Aurora 88 Large Ipsilon De Luxe Talentum, Alpha, Optima Italy Caran D’Ache Léman Ecridor Varius, Madison Switzerland Conway Stewart Churchill None Winston, Wellington, Series 100, Marlborough United Kingdom Cross Townsend Classic Apogee, ATX, Botanica, Sauvage United States Delta Dolce Vita Oversize Unica Many Lines Italy Graf von Faber Castell Intuition Platino Wood (seems to have displaced the Classic) Guilloche Classic, Pen of the Year Germany Franklin Christoph Model 19 “1901” Model 27 “Collegia” Many Individual Models United States Lamy Lamy 2000 Safari Studio, Dialog Germany Montblanc Meisterstück 149 “Diplomat” None Writers Edition, Great Characters Edition, Starwalker, Boheme Germany Omas Paragon None Milord, Bologna, 360, Ogiva Italy Parker Duofold (Centennial) Vector Sonnet, Premier, Ingenuity, Parker 51 (discontinued), P25 (discontinued) United States Pelikan M1000 Souverän M100, M150, M200, M205, M215, M250 Classic Many Lines German Pilot Custom 845 (Some discussion on the point ) Metropolitan Falcon, Vanishing Point, Custom 823, Justus Japan Platinum President Preppy 3776 Series Japan Sailor King of Pen Many Models 1911 Series, Professional Gear Japan Sheaffer Legacy Heritage VFM Taranis, Prelude, Sagaris, 300, 100, Intensity, Ferrari United States TWSBI Diamond Eco Classic, Vac 700, Mini, 580AL Taiwan Visconti None (Possibly the Divina. See this and this) Classic Homo Sapiens, Opera, Van Gogh, Michelangelo Italy Waterman Edson Charleston Carène, Exception France
  12. Hello everyone, I'm setting my sights on some larger pens. I think too much computer gaming at a young age made my hand a little sensitive, so I'm looking for something that manufacturers seem to reserve for their more expensive models - a girthier section. So I'm looking at (I have some credit on JM's site, so I'm choosing from their stock): an Omas 360 a Sailor KOP a Pelikan M1000 a Danitrio Takumi or Hakkaku (and a Nakaya dorsal fin, maybe?) and the recently released Bexley's OC 2014, which I can't yet buy I had a chance to handle a 360, and I mean that, strictly: it was uninked. I found it very comfortable to hold. The Sailor and the Pelikan have the appeal of those unique, enormous nibs. I generally prefer lighter pens, and the Pelikan is on the heavier side of these pen selections, but excellent balance, if it's there, can make weight less of a factor. The Pilot Custom 823 and Nakaya Desk Pen feel just fine, despite weighing 20+ grams uncapped. Danitrio is relatively unfamiliar, but I like the shape of these two pens. I put a maybe on the Dorsal Fin because looking at the pictures it feels like the nib is just a little too small for the pen's proportions. Pictures dramatize everything, though. So I'm just looking for thoughts on these pens. My goal is to obtain a pen that's highly comfortable and has the kind of nib qualities you might (ideally) expect from one of a manufacturer's premium pens. I like butter. Thank you for reading
  13. aliikizkaya

    Pelikan M1000 M800 Barrel Expansion

    Hi Folks ! I can't plug the cap in its proper place after leaving my new Pelikan M1000 barrel in a clean water for cleaning for a night. I checked the diameter of my M1000 with calliper comparing with my friends M1000 barrel diameter. My Pelikan's barrel diameter was 1mm bigger than my friends Pelikan barrel diameter. I checked my new M1000 under the microscope and I see the water penetrated between the tortoise shell layers just on the threads side where cap is screwing. I put the M1000 body in a towel and left for two days under the indirect sun light. After two days slow evaporation now everything is ok. I can screw the cap in its normal place on the barrel. Can anyone meet with same problem. Because one of my friends told me about the same issue in his M800. It seems to me like an issue of Pelikan tortoise shell manufacturing.





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