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Found 19 results

  1. I have a few Parker 51 pens that I've taken apart, cleaned out, and now it's time to replace their sacs, so I thoroughly removed any gunk and residue from the sac nipple, then shellac'd the new sac and left it to dry for a day or so. The result: after the shellac dries, it seems that it doesn't provide a good air seal. There seem to be "bubbles" under the sac between the "ridges" of the sac nipple, and as I apply some pressure on the sac, it starts to separate from the sac nipple very easily. For this reason, I'm too afraid to put this in a pen, because even though it sold of holds, I'm afr
  2. Hi all, Coming to seek wisdom on a problem I can't solve. A few months ago, I tracked down an old Danitrio Cum Laude. I love almost everything about the pen, but I found that after sitting overnight (or even for a few hours) the nib would be dry and need help to start back up. At first I thought this was a nib/feed issue, but after replacing both, I get exactly the same problem. On doing a little digging, I found that this is a problem on some Cum Laudes. Some apparently don't have an inner cap, which covers the hole where the clip inserts into the cap. But here's the mystery — my Cum La
  3. Hello all, I am pondering a possible acquisition of a Pilot Custom 823 and I only have one concern. I have recently become more sensitive to being able to maintain my pens over the length of time I own them. Specifically, I want to be able to address common issues that are likely to emerge for a pen over its operational lifetime. With the Custom 823 and other pens with filling mechanisms that use a seal (viz. piston-fillers), it is likely that the seal will lose its lubrication and cause the operation of the mechanism to become stiff. It happened before with my Lamy 2000 but I was able to un
  4. How is everyone's experience with the effectiveness of the cap seal on Platinum #3776 fountain pen models not designated Century, and are thus without the "Slip and Seal" mechanism? The celluloid models with product identifiers PTB-30000S (as opposed to the current production batches identified as PTB-35000S, which are obviously more expensive but designated Century), and earlier batches of the models with briarwood barrels (PTB-30000BN and PTB-50000BS), were not designated Century. I have one of the earlier brown tortoiseshell celluloid models and two of the briarwood models, and today I d
  5. Some context for the adventure here. The question comes in the last paragraph. I bought a long model Onoto 6234 from Spain recently, expecting it would need some service work. The pen looked to be in very fine shape externally, so that was promising. The plunger was extremely difficult to push down. Before taking it further apart, I removed the section to add some silicone grease to the barrel, as an experiment. Now the plunger moved very easily, but with no suitable 'pop' of vacuum breaking. Removing the rod showed that the "cup washer" was made from two bits of what appears to be bicyc
  6. MattDiamond

    Moisture Inside Barrel (M400/m200)

    Hi, I recently discovered I have quite a lot if moisture inside barrel of my M400 (behind piston in the shaft area). I have this pen for about 2 months now and cleaned it ca 4-5 times - with nib unscrewed and pen body under water tap. Is the connection between filling knob and barrel supposed to be watertight or is this normal? Problem is on M400 the piston part cannot be easily removed, unlike simple unscrewing on M800 so I cannot simply wipe it with paper towel. Do you have any proven methods or suggestions how to get rid of it? Leave the pen with filling knob fully unscrewed for few days
  7. I'm putting together an aerometric Parker 51 on which I replaced the pli-glass sac and the breather tube. The sac guard is one of the early aerometric models (maybe the chrome plated one) and can be screwed off easily. Should I seal it with shellac? Or something? Or just leave it as it is, to make it easier to repair next time?
  8. lawrenceloklok

    Silicone Grease

    Can I use the following grease to seal my eyedropper pen? Although the purpose of this grease is for electronic devices use.
  9. Yesterday i've attempted to repair a waterman 42 safety pen for the first time . everything has gone fine until i reached the cork seal. Of course it was old, full of dirty and almost in pieces. I managed to make a well-fitting one from a nice piece of cork but i've read somewhere that i'll need to boil it in paraffine or wax to make it works properly, but i can't find a complete description of the whole process. I've also read that someone use o-rings instead of a cork seal. Can someone link me a source where i can find/buy them? (possibly in Europe ) Thank you for the help!
  10. dragos.mocanu

    My First Pelikan - Have Some Questions

    Hello, Today I've received my first Pelikan, a 100N 'EXPORT' marked, with Pelikan D.R.P. around the cap top, which I got for an absurdly low price on the local flea market. The pen is in fantastic condition for such an old pen, and the nib is a sweet OF or OM with quite a bit of flex. The only thing that bothers me is that the piston seal is not completely flush to the interior of the barrel, and while the pen does fill almost completely, I'm afraid that some liquid can get past the seal into the back of the pen. I've tried to disassemble the piston assembly (I've read about them and I know
  11. drop_m

    Sealing Holes On A Lid

    Hi, i've a vintage lid which has 2 holes left from a missing clip. Now, since the lit has not a inner cap, i want to seal them to prevent leaks of ink.. any suggestion of how to proceed? The lid's plastic is black, by the way.. Another question: there are other problems i could have due to the lack of a inner cap?
  12. Several months ago I posted a thread where i was looking for a Moore replacement nib for a nice, previously restored safety pen with an ill-fitting replacement nib. Even after several helpful leads given to me by members here I was unfortunately unable to find the nib and decided to return the pen, as nice as it was. I just acquired another Moore's safety pen in unrestored condition with the intent of restoring it. This pen has the correct nib but I face a new set of problems removing the washers and cork. The last "restored" Moore pen I had was very easy to disassemble because someone ha
  13. Imagine you wanted a wax seal relevant to your family and able to be used by both males and females in the next generation or two. What questions would you ask yourself when attempting to identify symbols for inclusion? Assume there are no classical pieces of history to draw on (knights etc) and that the concept is commencing with this generation.
  14. Hello, Everyone. I have an old Everfeed plunger filler that I would like to restore. It appears to be a very simple design. But....where can I find a gasket/seal for it? Any ideas? I understand that it's a cheap pen, generally considered "not worth restoring". However, the pen belonged to my grandfather who was killed in WWII crossing the Rhine. I would like very much to restore it and use it. My father gave it to me in a box of old letters, medals, etc. that were my grandfathers. I think it would be really cool to restore it and write my dad a note using the pen. In the box were
  15. Hans-Gabriel

    Sealing Cap

    I was wondering if a plastic seal in the cap is essential in the design of an aluminum FP. Is it to protect the nib from drying or to prevent a chemical reaction between the ink and the aluminum or both ? If the cap is not supplied with the nib unit, do you have suggestions where to get then ? H-G
  16. Hi, A couple of years ago my Dad found some lovely old sealing wax which he gave me. It doesn't have a wick, and is the traditional brittle kind. I am sadly starting to get to the end of my stock of this lovely wax and need to buy some more, however I am really struggling to find anything similar (for a decent price). The closest thing I can find is something called "Bank of England" sealing wax, however J.Herbin "Cire Banque" looks like it might be pretty similar. The difficulty I'm having is that I can only find this was in bulk boxes that are £60-£80 each, really I'm only after a
  17. stephanos

    Pelikan 100N: Repair Questions

    Many months ago, I bought two old Pelikan pens quite cheaply (they were worth it for the OB and Fine 14k nibs alone). Each pen is slightly different, but they seem to be variations on the 100N produced in the late 1940s or early 1950s (based on the nib, piston, and posts on FPN such as this one). These pens are pretty, and I'd like to be able to write with them. But I'm not prepared to invest a large amount of money in order to do so: the value to me is at least as much in the learning effect of trying to get them working again myself. So, with that in mind, I have some questions, and would be
  18. Evening all. I recently picked up a M800 from the infamous auction site which detailed "pump intact". The pictures showed a user grade pen so I wasn't expecting the world and to be honest I was after teh 14C nib more than anything else. Turns out the piston seal was trapped further up the neck of the pen after having come adrift from the piston rod at some point. I've unassembled the entire pen for a good cleaning (it needs it) and found that the piston seal is no longer circular, it must have been jammed in there for a while. It's flattened on two sides so I doubt it'll even return to it's
  19. Hi again ^^. Today I'll teach you how to make a cheap wax seal. (epoxy wax seal here) You only need: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-97PwJ9jGyIc/UbTEA7vv3tI/AAAAAAAAEPg/Ol5Epmwby6w/s640/lacre72.jpg Trinkets, pendants, chains......PliersSuper glue, contact glue.... Drawer handle And follow the pictures: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lk6ojFFAmA0/UbTEBpMDq5I/AAAAAAAAEPo/98qa_EuMN0o/s400/lacre73.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LEmgaeDqQMU/UbTEB7K3DdI/AAAAAAAAEPw/Keku6oyt5fA/s400/lacre75.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u4ngbnVh5wQ/UbTECk-6XvI/AAAAAAAAEP4/jjnc-Gl6i-k/s640/lacre77.jpg http://3.b





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