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  1. parapadakis

    What type of cork is best for seals?

    Hello, I'm about to make my own cork seals for the first time. In this case it is for a Safety Pen, but there are also a few Onoto plungers in waiting. My question is this: What is the correct/best type of cork to use for seals? Does it make a difference? many thanks George
  2. dragos.mocanu

    My First Pelikan - Have Some Questions

    Hello, Today I've received my first Pelikan, a 100N 'EXPORT' marked, with Pelikan D.R.P. around the cap top, which I got for an absurdly low price on the local flea market. The pen is in fantastic condition for such an old pen, and the nib is a sweet OF or OM with quite a bit of flex. The only thing that bothers me is that the piston seal is not completely flush to the interior of the barrel, and while the pen does fill almost completely, I'm afraid that some liquid can get past the seal into the back of the pen. I've tried to disassemble the piston assembly (I've read about them and I know that I must turn clockwise), but it doesn't budge...I didn't force it. I'm guessing that the pen is made out of resin, but I may be wrong (can't quite tell the difference between celluloid and acrylic). Here are a couple of pictures (sorry for the bad quality): http://i.imgur.com/8DV453g.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EAzdOgU.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1ajah2t.jpg Is there any place in Europe where I could get a new seal for the piston? And also, what can I do in order to loosen the piston assembly, so I can remove it? Thank you.
  3. I have a few Parker 51 pens that I've taken apart, cleaned out, and now it's time to replace their sacs, so I thoroughly removed any gunk and residue from the sac nipple, then shellac'd the new sac and left it to dry for a day or so. The result: after the shellac dries, it seems that it doesn't provide a good air seal. There seem to be "bubbles" under the sac between the "ridges" of the sac nipple, and as I apply some pressure on the sac, it starts to separate from the sac nipple very easily. For this reason, I'm too afraid to put this in a pen, because even though it sold of holds, I'm afraid it would come loose and start to leak soon. It also seems that the shellac is weak, if I apply very little force the sac comes off easily. I've now repeated the process 3 times, tried 2 different kinds of shellac, each time cleaning out the gunk and residue from the previous attempt carefully. But I always get the same result. What am I doing wrong? Is there a trick that I'm missing here? This feels very silly because I was able to do this successfully in the past but for some reason I can't get it right this time.
  4. Hi all, Coming to seek wisdom on a problem I can't solve. A few months ago, I tracked down an old Danitrio Cum Laude. I love almost everything about the pen, but I found that after sitting overnight (or even for a few hours) the nib would be dry and need help to start back up. At first I thought this was a nib/feed issue, but after replacing both, I get exactly the same problem. On doing a little digging, I found that this is a problem on some Cum Laudes. Some apparently don't have an inner cap, which covers the hole where the clip inserts into the cap. But here's the mystery — my Cum Laude does have an inner cap, the usual small black insert. From shining a light through the cap, I was able to determine that my inner cap is not all the way at the back of the outer cap. It sits below the clip hole but above the nib. I'm not sure if this is the proper placement, but I didn't want to try shoving it back farther for fear of damaging the celluloid. Either way, the seal clearly isn't working, because the pen hard starts every time I pick it up. All of which is a long way to ask: is there anything I can do? I'm not an expert repairman, nor do I have much hope of tracking down a fresh cap. With the inner cap in place, I can't even reach the hole from the inside to plug it with sealant. I'm stumped. I'm also sad, because I really like this pen in all other ways. Thanks in advance for any help or insight. I hope everyone is staying healthy and sane — writing by hand has been a source of stability for me these days.
  5. Hello all, I am pondering a possible acquisition of a Pilot Custom 823 and I only have one concern. I have recently become more sensitive to being able to maintain my pens over the length of time I own them. Specifically, I want to be able to address common issues that are likely to emerge for a pen over its operational lifetime. With the Custom 823 and other pens with filling mechanisms that use a seal (viz. piston-fillers), it is likely that the seal will lose its lubrication and cause the operation of the mechanism to become stiff. It happened before with my Lamy 2000 but I was able to unscrew the section and access the interior of the barrel, enabling me to apply a dab of silicon grease to restore full smoothness to the piston seal. As far as I know, pilot does not advise unscrewing the section with the barrel to reach the rod's seal without removing the whole housing from the rear of the pen. I know it is possible to do this, but I am uncertain of the risk that it entails. Based on your experience with the Custom 823 (if any), how difficult is it to lubricate the seal if it causes the mechanism's operation to become stiff? Do I risk serious damage or causing performance issues with the pen if I unscrew the section with the barrel (viz. cracking the resin) to perform this maintenance task? Thank you for reading, I look forward to your responses.
  6. How is everyone's experience with the effectiveness of the cap seal on Platinum #3776 fountain pen models not designated Century, and are thus without the "Slip and Seal" mechanism? The celluloid models with product identifiers PTB-30000S (as opposed to the current production batches identified as PTB-35000S, which are obviously more expensive but designated Century), and earlier batches of the models with briarwood barrels (PTB-30000BN and PTB-50000BS), were not designated Century. I have one of the earlier brown tortoiseshell celluloid models and two of the briarwood models, and today I discovered the ink has all dried out in their converters after not having been used for four or so weeks. In contrast, not so my two kanazawa-haku models (PNB-30000H) or basic Bourgogne models of the Platinum #3776 Century pens. That pretty much cured me of the persistently resurfacing desire to complete the 'collection' of briarwood models I'm still missing the one with the light-coloured smooth finish or buy more of the celluloid models when I see them offered 'cheaply' on Amazon.
  7. Some context for the adventure here. The question comes in the last paragraph. I bought a long model Onoto 6234 from Spain recently, expecting it would need some service work. The pen looked to be in very fine shape externally, so that was promising. The plunger was extremely difficult to push down. Before taking it further apart, I removed the section to add some silicone grease to the barrel, as an experiment. Now the plunger moved very easily, but with no suitable 'pop' of vacuum breaking. Removing the rod showed that the "cup washer" was made from two bits of what appears to be bicycle inner tube (it curves floppily on one radius) hand cut with a knife into a random polygon roughly approximating a circle, with no cone washer for support. OK, I can replace that. A lack of ink in the barrel or section suggested the earlier repairer had found their effort was not entirely successful. I noted also that the plunger cone pin had rust around it! Pushing it out, I found that my predecessor had resorted to a bit of metal for the pin, and not a rust-proof bit, for this pin immersed in dyed water. Also, the rod was bent, presumably from trying to force down the ungreased piston. Well, it is ebonite with a wire core. I am trying to ease its bend at the moment. It may need replacement. Next, I turned to the cork seal at the top of the barrel. Hmm, no seal screw. That does not help. So, to the question: Does anyone know the threading used for the seal screw on top of an Onoto barrel? Given they used 5BA for the rod, I am conjecturing it will be 0BA or 1BA (but normal RH thread). If it is, I may be able to make another.
  8. MattDiamond

    Moisture Inside Barrel (M400/m200)

    Hi, I recently discovered I have quite a lot if moisture inside barrel of my M400 (behind piston in the shaft area). I have this pen for about 2 months now and cleaned it ca 4-5 times - with nib unscrewed and pen body under water tap. Is the connection between filling knob and barrel supposed to be watertight or is this normal? Problem is on M400 the piston part cannot be easily removed, unlike simple unscrewing on M800 so I cannot simply wipe it with paper towel. Do you have any proven methods or suggestions how to get rid of it? Leave the pen with filling knob fully unscrewed for few days maybe?
  9. I'm putting together an aerometric Parker 51 on which I replaced the pli-glass sac and the breather tube. The sac guard is one of the early aerometric models (maybe the chrome plated one) and can be screwed off easily. Should I seal it with shellac? Or something? Or just leave it as it is, to make it easier to repair next time?
  10. lawrenceloklok

    Silicone Grease

    Can I use the following grease to seal my eyedropper pen? Although the purpose of this grease is for electronic devices use.
  11. Yesterday i've attempted to repair a waterman 42 safety pen for the first time . everything has gone fine until i reached the cork seal. Of course it was old, full of dirty and almost in pieces. I managed to make a well-fitting one from a nice piece of cork but i've read somewhere that i'll need to boil it in paraffine or wax to make it works properly, but i can't find a complete description of the whole process. I've also read that someone use o-rings instead of a cork seal. Can someone link me a source where i can find/buy them? (possibly in Europe ) Thank you for the help!
  12. drop_m

    Sealing Holes On A Lid

    Hi, i've a vintage lid which has 2 holes left from a missing clip. Now, since the lit has not a inner cap, i want to seal them to prevent leaks of ink.. any suggestion of how to proceed? The lid's plastic is black, by the way.. Another question: there are other problems i could have due to the lack of a inner cap?
  13. Several months ago I posted a thread where i was looking for a Moore replacement nib for a nice, previously restored safety pen with an ill-fitting replacement nib. Even after several helpful leads given to me by members here I was unfortunately unable to find the nib and decided to return the pen, as nice as it was. I just acquired another Moore's safety pen in unrestored condition with the intent of restoring it. This pen has the correct nib but I face a new set of problems removing the washers and cork. The last "restored" Moore pen I had was very easy to disassemble because someone had already gone through the trouble. The shaft unscrewed from the back knob easily and when I looked at the outermost threaded washer I noted that there were 2 small, shallow holes carefully drilled into the surface at 12 and 6 o'clock positions. This was obviously to assist someone in the unscrewing and replacement of the washer. When I went to disassemble this new pen of mine i found the outermost washer has no little holes to fit my tweezers in to unscrew it. I understand I will need to get a heat gun to carefully loosen these threads (there seems to be some shellac covering them) but how in world is a guy supposed to unscrew the washers and if there are no little holes to fit a tool into, how did those Bostonians even install the washers in the first place? Well, I guess my question for the forum is: Am I correct in assuming that I will need to drill 2 tiny, shallow holes in the washer in order to turn it out? Even after applying heat I cannot imaging getting a grip on the washer any other way. Thanks in advance for people's helpful advice, Scribe16
  14. Imagine you wanted a wax seal relevant to your family and able to be used by both males and females in the next generation or two. What questions would you ask yourself when attempting to identify symbols for inclusion? Assume there are no classical pieces of history to draw on (knights etc) and that the concept is commencing with this generation.
  15. Hello, Everyone. I have an old Everfeed plunger filler that I would like to restore. It appears to be a very simple design. But....where can I find a gasket/seal for it? Any ideas? I understand that it's a cheap pen, generally considered "not worth restoring". However, the pen belonged to my grandfather who was killed in WWII crossing the Rhine. I would like very much to restore it and use it. My father gave it to me in a box of old letters, medals, etc. that were my grandfathers. I think it would be really cool to restore it and write my dad a note using the pen. In the box were also three other pens: An Arnold brand lever filler, a Wearever Zenith lever filler and an Inkograph lever filler. I have cleaned and resacked those three pens, so the Everfeed is the last one to tackle. Any help or direction would be appreciated. Thanks.
  16. Hans-Gabriel

    Sealing Cap

    I was wondering if a plastic seal in the cap is essential in the design of an aluminum FP. Is it to protect the nib from drying or to prevent a chemical reaction between the ink and the aluminum or both ? If the cap is not supplied with the nib unit, do you have suggestions where to get then ? H-G
  17. Hi, A couple of years ago my Dad found some lovely old sealing wax which he gave me. It doesn't have a wick, and is the traditional brittle kind. I am sadly starting to get to the end of my stock of this lovely wax and need to buy some more, however I am really struggling to find anything similar (for a decent price). The closest thing I can find is something called "Bank of England" sealing wax, however J.Herbin "Cire Banque" looks like it might be pretty similar. The difficulty I'm having is that I can only find this was in bulk boxes that are £60-£80 each, really I'm only after a couple of sticks and looking to spend £20ish. Does anyone know where I can get this type of wax for a decent price in the UK? (I'm after Red/Crimson, Blue and Gold). Thanks for your help. Joe
  18. stephanos

    Pelikan 100N: Repair Questions

    Many months ago, I bought two old Pelikan pens quite cheaply (they were worth it for the OB and Fine 14k nibs alone). Each pen is slightly different, but they seem to be variations on the 100N produced in the late 1940s or early 1950s (based on the nib, piston, and posts on FPN such as this one). These pens are pretty, and I'd like to be able to write with them. But I'm not prepared to invest a large amount of money in order to do so: the value to me is at least as much in the learning effect of trying to get them working again myself. So, with that in mind, I have some questions, and would be very grateful for any wisdom or tips. 1. Piston seals Each of the pens will need a new piston seal (synthetic, not cork), as they draw some water, only to leak from the back of the barrel (via the piston knob). I have been unable to find a supplier in the European Union. Can anyone point me in the right direction? (I know I can get parts from David Nishimura's site, but I want to buy from a seller based in the European Union: I am allergic to paying handling fees in addition to the inevitable P&P and taxes, plus having all the extra hassle of sorting out this additional payment.) 2. Cracked section One of the pens has two hairline cracks in the section, one on each side. It doesn't presently seem to be a huge problem - I can still screw the nib unit in and out and there is no indication that the cracks open up when I use the nib gently - but it can't be good for the pen. I'm tempted to use a little superglue, or to try some shellac. But perhaps there's a tried-and-trusted way that I have not turned up. Can anyone suggest a way of repairing the cracks? 3. Screwing the piston back in I was able to remove the piston on both pens without too much trouble. And in each case, I was lucky that the threads are still intact. But, weirdly, the piston seal on one of the pens now seems to be too big to be able to fit back into the barrel. That is, I have made no changes to the piston mechanism beyond cleaning it, but simply cannot screw it back in. I know it's a problem with the width of the seal, because when I remove the actual seal, I can reinstall the piston mechanism without any trouble. I have tried with the piston from the other pen and have had the same problem (both pistons can screw into one of the barrels, but not the other). Can anyone offer an explanation? (I don't have a good enough camera to take a photo down the barrel) 4. Going via Pelikan Finally, I saw somewhere on FPN (cannot remember where) that it is possible to send vintage pens to Pelikan and that they will repair them for a reasonable fee. That may be an option if I get nowhere on my own. Can anyone confirm that, and/or have any experience with doing so? Thank you! Edited for greater clarity in Q3.
  19. Evening all. I recently picked up a M800 from the infamous auction site which detailed "pump intact". The pictures showed a user grade pen so I wasn't expecting the world and to be honest I was after teh 14C nib more than anything else. Turns out the piston seal was trapped further up the neck of the pen after having come adrift from the piston rod at some point. I've unassembled the entire pen for a good cleaning (it needs it) and found that the piston seal is no longer circular, it must have been jammed in there for a while. It's flattened on two sides so I doubt it'll even return to it's normal shape again. Does anyone know of a source for replacement or original seals? I had thought of contacting Pelikan directly but thought I'd ask here first. Cheers, Greg
  20. Hi again ^^. Today I'll teach you how to make a cheap wax seal. (epoxy wax seal here) You only need: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-97PwJ9jGyIc/UbTEA7vv3tI/AAAAAAAAEPg/Ol5Epmwby6w/s640/lacre72.jpg Trinkets, pendants, chains......PliersSuper glue, contact glue.... Drawer handle And follow the pictures: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lk6ojFFAmA0/UbTEBpMDq5I/AAAAAAAAEPo/98qa_EuMN0o/s400/lacre73.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LEmgaeDqQMU/UbTEB7K3DdI/AAAAAAAAEPw/Keku6oyt5fA/s400/lacre75.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u4ngbnVh5wQ/UbTECk-6XvI/AAAAAAAAEP4/jjnc-Gl6i-k/s640/lacre77.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NrBrkwas3Jk/UbTEDApJORI/AAAAAAAAEP8/NEaNWfRSn5Y/s320/lacre79.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yYmZ21LYtbs/UbTD4pqs68I/AAAAAAAAENk/4y4oQmFOKXI/s320/lacre02.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CJwh6iB2JEE/UbTD4Nav-DI/AAAAAAAAENY/P31ra3iPbB4/s640/lacre01.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RWsn_ABZXzA/UbTD8Vu3QEI/AAAAAAAAEOY/9LqeyfSeULA/s640/lacre10.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uO6IFrVC_Zw/UbTD8P9OJsI/AAAAAAAAEOc/ZUNKSuRQaeE/s320/lacre09.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_HobJW1u_HI/UbTD9MoJ4fI/AAAAAAAAEOk/I3wIBL0FfnI/s320/lacre16.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-taBxP3bylhc/UbTD9yINTxI/AAAAAAAAEPA/ML_ImwElbR4/s320/lacre18.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eLdsOZIhjmE/UbTD-lKm5pI/AAAAAAAAEO0/AHs4B09IB8E/s320/lacre25.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mYe5D8Vl38M/UbTEAB-6ISI/AAAAAAAAEPU/mcSMoLykH9M/s640/lacre27.jpg The Drawer handle is optional, you can do it without this : http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-42WP0jtSyTo/UbTD-EDgcII/AAAAAAAAEO4/MqhTx9_CasU/s640/lacre22.jpg http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DKdLaQ6UOU4/UbTEAeozuiI/AAAAAAAAEPQ/QJuxT2eJI9M/s640/lacre28.jpg Thanks for watching, More tutorial in mi blog.





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