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Found 10 results

  1. dragos.mocanu

    My First Pelikan - Have Some Questions

    Hello, Today I've received my first Pelikan, a 100N 'EXPORT' marked, with Pelikan D.R.P. around the cap top, which I got for an absurdly low price on the local flea market. The pen is in fantastic condition for such an old pen, and the nib is a sweet OF or OM with quite a bit of flex. The only thing that bothers me is that the piston seal is not completely flush to the interior of the barrel, and while the pen does fill almost completely, I'm afraid that some liquid can get past the seal into the back of the pen. I've tried to disassemble the piston assembly (I've read about them and I know that I must turn clockwise), but it doesn't budge...I didn't force it. I'm guessing that the pen is made out of resin, but I may be wrong (can't quite tell the difference between celluloid and acrylic). Here are a couple of pictures (sorry for the bad quality): http://i.imgur.com/8DV453g.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EAzdOgU.jpg http://i.imgur.com/1ajah2t.jpg Is there any place in Europe where I could get a new seal for the piston? And also, what can I do in order to loosen the piston assembly, so I can remove it? Thank you.
  2. KiltedKrafts

    Waterman Taperite Nibs

    Hi all, first post here. I bought a taperite citation with the hooded nib that needs restoring, but the nib needs replacing. I have been scouring the web for months trying to find a replacement with no success. Having to guess at the nib description as all the engraving says is ‘made in england’ or some such. I have bought other taperites with the intention of nicking their nibs, but they are always in good condition and very saleable, so it would simply leave me with yet another pen needing a nib. Can anyone point me to a nib or provide an accurate description of the nib model so i can continue my search without going bald too quickly? i apologies if i am in the forum, feel free to moderate me. many desperate thanks in advance, Dave C.
  3. Hello all! Short version If anyone knows a steel #5 nib and feed that I can buy to replace my Visconti Rembrandt's I would be grateful. I am particularly interested in JoWo, but can be talked into something else. My TWSBI 580 nib fits, but not the feed. (feed is 44 mm long, nib/feed holder is ~22 mm). Long version I have a lovely Visconti Rembrandt, but it has some problems. I have played around with it, and I am pretty sure it's a feed or converter/feed starvation issue plus a dodgy nib. The nib looks like this under a 10x loupe (I know narrowing towards the tip is not a bad thing): http://i67.tinypic.com/erdjs6.jpg But even with a TWSBI (JoWo?) nib, the ink flow is not great, and gets drier as I write. I have soaked the feed in warm soapy water, cleaned with a toothbrush, cut the channel a bit with a razor blade...with some improvement. (inks: Pelikan Sapphire, MB Irish Green, Diamine Bilberry). I can't tell if it is an issue with the feed, or the converter, or both---or their interface: I tried it with standard short ink cartridges and and I seem to get the same problem, but it's hard for me to tell as my only cartridges are pretty saturated ink (D. Majestic Blue). Anyway, I don't really want to use cartridges and and I'm not certain there is anything wrong with the Visconti converter itself, though I note it doesn't have a plastic ball inside. Is that a major issue?Interestingly, if I simply take off the converter and put it back on (no shaking!), that is enough to briefly increase the flow: maybe this is a sign that the converter or the interface is a bit dodgy? Perhaps I should try another converter, but I've seen a few posts with similar issues here on FPN.The end of the feed looks like the sketch below. Would cutting this channel a bit wider make a difference? http://i66.tinypic.com/rcihw5.jpg I thought about sending off for repairs, but I'm not impressed with the tales I've seen here on FPN of similar issues with Visconti replacements. And anyway I'm an engineer and like hacking things together. I confirmed that a standard #5 should fit the pen (using a TWSBI 580), but I would like to try a new feed as well to see what a difference it makes. Any suggestions on one that will fit? (44 mm long feed, ~22 mm long nib/feed holder). I'm not impressed with a Bock replacement nib I bought recently (metal left in the slit, ends touching), so am looking for JoWo or something different. Edit: Sorry the images are so huge!
  4. I have a Schaeffer Balance II, purchased years ago and the tube running through the back of the section was damaged. Has anyone had this happen to them? Any chance this can be repaired or replaced for a reasonable sum?
  5. Arotaes

    Swapping Out Snorkel Guts

    Say I've got three Snorkels in front of me. One has a flawless Triumph 14k nib, but the body is busted. One has restored internals, but the nib is a 14k #5 and the body is an ugly grey. The final one has a beautiful burgundy body and the Sentinel cap, but the Triumph nib is busted and the internals aren't restored. How do I get the best parts of each into one nice frankenpen? (Repair newb)
  6. I bought the caran d'ache 849 pen from a local store in Hong Kong. I broke the nib and I want to replace it, perhaps try a nip of different size even. However fountain pen is a rare thing here. Local store not selling replacement parts and i couldnt find any where else i could buy from. I tried the Caran d'ache official page and amazon, nobody seemed to be selling 849 fountain pen nibs, unless i buy the whole pen. Anybody knows a possible replacement for that? maybe some other third party nib that might fit in?
  7. meilinpo

    Pilot/ Namiki Nib

    I own a beautiful Pilot/ Namiki "Capless" Vanishing Point pen- it's a Decimo, which is slightly slimmer and lighter than the regular VP pens, but takes the same nib- and I LOVE it. I have heard that the nibs for these pens are not well standardized. A few weeks after getting my pen, I broke the nib and had to replace it (rather a costly accident, but nevertheless). The nib size of my pen was, and is, a Fine; but I notice the new nib does not write quite as fine a 'Fine' line as the previous, original nib did. I liked the thinner line (didn't want to go to "Extra Fine", because I thought an EF nib might be too delicate- requires a light hand,) Is there a way I can have the nib adjusted? Would it cost as much, or nearly, as buying a whole new nib again? Any thoughts? thanks! - M
  8. Hello, Does anyone know how to replace the nib of a Montegrappa Symphony? I have looked at it and I can't seem to take the feeder and the nib out. They don't seem to be screwed in, like the Miya is for example... Any thoughts on this?
  9. Hello all! I have two Levenger True Writers that I got for a bargain, but both are lacking inner caps, which means that they dry up VEEEEERY quickly when not in use. Is there any way to replace the inner cap, or should I look for new caps altogether?
  10. administr4tor

    Repairing My Badly Broken Lammy Safari

    hello friends, In effort of making Lamy more smooth and darker I broke my lamy pen beyond its limit and then I became sad and repaired it, check out images, basically I broke the feed of lamy safari completely so please look at images and post your suggetions/comments too.( I am using original lamy ink ) IMAGE 1 - broken Lamy. IMAGE 2 - Tools needed - flat surface is needed - Dont use magic glue it wont work for long, I tried that too. - blow some hot air so that moisture or any ink/water will go. - A small filer tool and sharp pointed thin blade / surgical blade will also be needed to remove the extra glue after joint get dried IMAGE 3 - Repairing Process - - take out every part and put them in hot water for 10 minutes or so. - clean out parts by taking out of water with brush so that the feed will get completely from any type of small particles which can cause choking. - take out of water and then clean with dry cloth and then put hot air and let them dry. - ready the glue and then put the glue with pointed tool like a pin or anything because using pointing pin wont put too much of glue. - join the parts and calibrate them on flat surface and see the calibration with eyepiece because you dont want a imbalanced fed which will never fit again inside. - let the joint dry under air for 3,4 hours depends on the glue , I prefer overnight , after 10-15 minutes you can put some hot air if you like. - then clean the lines of feed with pointed tool ( use injection syringe needle because it is hollow and pointed it took the extra glue in its hole) because at joints the glue is choking the drain and you have to clean the drain else pen wont work. - reassemble the pen and it will work. This is my second attempt to repair this pen. First attempt worked but not for long because I used Super fast glue and that didnt hold it for long so I have to use this glue. Regards. Post your suggestions for lamy , I am new to lamy but using all types of pens mostly local brands and few other from very beginning. :-)





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