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  1. Sailor Kenshin

    Frozen Sheaffer Snorkel. Help?

    A friend gave us two Sheaffer pens to get writing again. The first, a teeny Balance, has already been re-sacced and ready to write. He also gave us a Snorkel pen with the Snorkel tube stuck inside. The blind cap cannot be turned to extend the Snorkel tube. Internal rust from the spring is suspected. Is it still safe to unscrew the barrel from the gripping section without extending the Snorkel tube? Otherwise, how should we proceed, and could it be anything other than rust?
  2. I have wanted a snorkel filler pen but poorly maintained vintage pens have made me wary of purchasing them online. Does anyone know reputable sellers ( in India ) who offer vintage pens? If so please share your experiences along with their contact details.
  3. ELSpartan44

    Snorkel 14K Triumph Nib Not Two-Toned?

    Hello, this is my first post, but I have been watching this forum for a while now. A little over a month ago I purchased my first Sheaffer Snorkel. I went for the two-toned Triumph nib because I thought it looked awesome. I believe it is a valiant, though, and since I like shiny things, I decided I wanted to get a Sentinel as well for the stainless cap. It just arrived, and everything about it is great (it even has the gold tube), but the nib just looks wrong. It is stamped 14K, but the entire thing looks gold... No platinum mask like my Valiant. Is this actually a thing, or did I buy a messed up pen? Is the platinum plated and maybe wore off? The rest of the pen is in excellent condition, though. I am considering returning it (haven't inked it, just in case), but was hoping for feedback first. I had issues getting the attachments to work because of the file size limit, so here's a link to a gallery with a few pictures of the pens: http://m.imgur.com/THW8MKn,FelwfQq,FH9eu5b,uQod65x,BVdge71,W794pfE
  4. I'm not at all experienced in restoring pens, but I thought I would try my hand at it a bit with a Sheaffer snorkel I just received as a gift. It is a black snorkel with a waverly nib, and it is in incredibly good condition except for the sac, which I plan to re-sac later. But first I have to get that sac out of the metal sac protector. I tried to loosen the metal crimping around the black piece at the bottom of the sac to gently pull it out via the snorkel, but I ended up pulling the snorkel out of the black piece instead. So my question is - as a non-experienced pen restorer (I mostly use modern pens but have a bit of vintage experience), how should I do this? I've heard I can heat it up a bit with a hairdryer to make the removal easier, but I'd like the advice of the experts here. And if you don't think I'm qualified to do this, please let me know. It seems like a small job but I really cannot say. Thank you for any advice.
  5. Yesterday I started my new year with a new achievement: I restored a Sheaffer Snorkel! I’m sure that’s not exactly a “stop the presses” moment for most of you, but it was a bit of a watershed for me. I’ve been collecting and using fountain pens for some years now, and I’ve done a bit of light tinkering along the way. I’ve learned to swap standard #5 and #6 nibs around freely, made some basic nib adjustments, got a sonic cleaner. I even replaced rubber bulbs on my bulb-fillers, which is about as easy as it gets, because it doesn’t even require disassembling the pen at all. But the Snorkel… It’s got a reputation as possibly the most advanced—and most complex—fountain pen ever produced. Jumping into this was a leap of faith for me. With three non-functioning Snorkels in hand, I snagged a fresh bottle of shellac and a parts kit from eBay. Then took a while to work up my nerve. The most scary thing to me is disassembly, if a pen was put together with glue and not designed to come apart easily. I figure if I’m going to break one, or scar one up, that’s when it’ll happen. Fortunately, a lot of Snorkels seem to come apart quite easily. Unfortunately, the one I picked to start working on was stubborn and seemed like it got a triple shot of glue back at Ford Madison. I had to apply heat and a fair bit of torque (with latex-coated gloves for extra grip) before it gradually turned loose. My parts kit came with three O-rings, three point seals, and three sacs. After getting the pen apart, the orginal factory O-ring and point seal were in great condition. They weren’t hard or cracked or gummy, and I decided to just keep them. (Getting that O-ring back in place after examining it was pretty comedic, though!) The sac, though… It had turned to crumbly, stubborn goo. Or gooey crumbs. Either way, it didn’t want to come out. I eventually discovered that a 22-caliber bronze bore brush was very helpful with this. I probably shouldn’t even call what I did “restoration” because all I ended up doing was replacing the sac in this pen. It was already a superbly preserved “eBay minty” specimen. Even so, I can’t help feeling a little pride that I managed to disassemble the notorious Snorkel, replace that sac and reassemble everything correctly without damaging anything or losing any parts, and I got it working as it should. One down, two to go!
  6. I have three broken pens that I would love to give to someone or someones who have the skill, tools, and inclination to repair and to keep. If you can fix 'em or even salvage and use the parts, you can have 'em. I don't want to see these go to melt or resale or parts resale (I could do that!), but preferably to a collector who will restore and use them or even trade them on FPN. If you-all judge them beyond repair, then I'll reconsider. I just don't know enough to judge. First is a 1970's Montblanc, I don't know the model. I bought this new, broke the cap almost immediately, attempted a hamfisted repair (there is some glue residue on the surviving piece of the cap, which is in the photo and will be included with the pen), and gave up, a little brokenhearted. It's been in a drawer for 40+ years. The nib is in good shape, almost never used. I think it's a medium. It's moderately dirty, but the piston works and is smooth. https://www.amazon.com/photos/all/fpngallery/oub-KcOjSAq_pXmpYuB20Q Second is a Montblanc Mozart (cartridge only) with a pranged nib. The picture doesn't show the extent of the damage, but the tines are really bent. There is a slight blemish on the star on the cap. I don't know what the blemish is, and it didn't come off with light finger rubbing. The rest of the pen is in great shape. The threads are clean and smooth. I don't remember where I got this, or how and when I broke it, but I've had it a very long time. I probably bought it when the Mozart series first came out, but I am not sure. https://www.amazon.com/photos/all/fpngallery/HVDQvfdcRf6_gFsgo1h3Fg The last is a 1940's or earlier Schaeffer snorkel in burgundy. It was my wife's school pen. I broke the section very recently (*grrr*) when disassembling it to clean. The surviving piece is depicted and will be included with the pen. The nib is undamaged, but the pen is VERY dirty. She probably put it away inked decades ago. Having blown it once, I will not attempt further manipulation, but rather leave it in parts. https://www.amazon.com/photos/all/fpngallery/5dlpnTF0RBeYigg5KPi6uQ Here are all three together https://www.amazon.com/photos/all/fpngallery/z48Cx81AQvin2QYh2ZlA8w I'll leave this open for a couple of weeks and choose randomly, with preference to someone who wants all three. If you only want one or two, please don't hesitate to say so, however, because there might not be anyone who wants all three. For shipping, I request that you send me a prepaid shipping box so that all I have to do is bubble-wrap them and send them off.
  7. gammada

    Is This A Snorkel Fountain Pen?

    I just bought what to my eyes appears to be a Snorkel fountain pen, but am not sure what it really is. As of this moment the pen is awaiting to be shipped to me, so I have no way of verifying my suspicion. The seller just stated that the pen was an "Old Sheaffer Canada 14k Nib Suction Fountain Pen", but looking at the Snorkel photo thread on this forum, it looks quite similar in shape and nib. If this is jot the case, can you help me identify the pen and tell me if I got a good deal at $60? Thanks!
  8. jmccarty3

    Sheaffer Saratoga Vs Admiral

    I am looking at a Sheaffer Snorkel catalog from the mid '50s (sorry, I can't remember which thread this came from), and I am having trouble distinguishing the Saratoga from the Admiral. The colors and descriptions in the catalog don't help. What's the difference between the two?
  9. Recently saw this nice Snorkel signature set and almost passed it up, until I saw that it has a factory stub nib. Had to get it. The problem: my wife and I are moving overseas in like a week. No time to mail and have a new sac put in, even with rush delivery...right? So, if there's someone around Louisville, KY who can do this, who would be willing to let me drop it off to them and pick it up, I'd be deeply in your debt. Thanks folks!
  10. I was given a bag of pens a couple of days ago. There were several Sheaffer fountain pens in it. One was what I would call a standard school pen--the kind I used in grammar school. There's a No Nonsense. A Snorkel that I could not identify at first. It seems to be in excellent shape so I put water in it to see if it will leak. I'm pretty sure it had ink in it before I cleaned it. Most of the pens did. There was also this pen, which I can't quite identify. It has a pink dot on the clip and not much writing on the nib. The size is on the back. Other than that, the nib just says Sheaffer on the first line, U.S.A. on the left side of the second line, and a registration symbol on the right side of the second line. Can anyone clarify what this is?
  11. trdsf

    Snorkel Desk Pen

    So there is an antique shop nearby that is looking out for my money collecting interests, and I got a lovely brown Sheaffer Snorkel desk set with a yellow-green base over this past weekend (and a bunch of other non-pen-related things, but that's another story and involves radioactivity and a UV light source). The mechanism appears to be good -- the snorkel extends and retracts correctly. But this is my first Snorkel, so I have not even run a water flush through it, because I want the advice of the FPN hive mind first as to the proper care and feeding of this lovely little beast. Pictures when I get home.
  12. Sailor Kenshin

    Should A Snorkel Look Like This?

    We recently got an open-nib Snorkel (no idea what model, sorry) with body and cap and even the nib in decent shape, but the tube wouldn't retract. DH disassembled it, put in some new parts, and reassembled it. We haven't tested it yet, though, because the tube still protrudes somewhat. I asked him to spell out what happened. Can anyone tell if this is normal? "This was my first attempt at a Snorkel repair. This Snorkel has an open nib and it took me a lot of fiddling with the nib and feed position in the collar to get the nib aligned with the longitudinal slit on the end of the Snorkel Tube (as per Richard Binders instructions). The pictures below show the nib and feed with the Snorkel tube fully retracted, It sticks out about 1 mm from the feed. My questions are: - Is is normal for a retracted Snorkel Tube to stick out this much? - Do the nib and feed look properly positioned relative to each other? - If everything else works, should I just leave well enough alone? http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/9514/8986/5661/Snorkel_Retracted-1-640p.jpg http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/1414/8986/5662/Snorkel_Retracted-2-640p.jpg Thanks in advance for your help."
  13. I finally got myself a Sheaffer Snorkel signature, but was not able to read the engraving on eBay. I find it amusing that mine belonged to a "Bob Ross." Unfortunately I'm fairly certain it isn't the famous TV painter. I'm curious whether anyone has one with a famous name attached...'https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1480807680__1203161725-1.jpg'
  14. I will be visiting Houston from Dec. 17th 2016 till Jan. 1st 2017. I have three pens I needed fixed. One is a Sheaffer student pen that was dropped on its tip and needs to be reground/adjusted, the next one is a Sheaffer Snorkel that needs to be restored, while the third is a Mont Blanc 221 with a cracked section. Mont Blanc service in Germany tells me they have no stock of replacement sections for this model. I would prefer a replacement section, but I am open to someone making a new section or pen just to be able to use the nib. The Snorkel has a Triumph nib, and the actual snorkel seems split down the middle, so the pen doesn't suck up ink. I live in China and would prefer to take the pens back to China rather than risk courier service. PM me if you are willing to repair these pens; otherwise feel free to leave names of people you recommend.
  15. Just received the 2nd and 3rd pens. Never have had a blue Snorkel, so unsure of the color of the 3rd, From left to right: Black Imperial, Pastel Blue Snorkel (?), Peacock Blue Snorkel (?), Pastel Green Snorkel, Persian Blue TD, Black Snorkel. Other pens are for reference, since I don't have a fancy lighting setup. (Picture taken in artificial light) Following Picture is natural light: Got both of the blues off eBay, where they both looked like Peacock (the seller was clueless when I asked). The one I think is peacock just doesn't seem to be as vibrant as from pictures I've seen online, so I'm not really sure. Got both in pretty good, but not restored, condition for cheap so I guess I can't really complain. If it really is Peacock, it took me less than 15 minutes of searching eBay to find it... not exactly what I expected for "rare." Missed out on mint condition sage and fern green sets a couple days ago... Would people who have been collecting Snorkels for more the two weeks or so that I have been say that the color rarity ratings here are correct (or maybe just outdated, no offence intended)? http://(bleep).com/website/sheaffersnorkelguide.htm Haven't seen vermillion, Fiesta red, mandarin, periwinkle, buckskin, or demonstrator over that span, while searching extensively. Granted, I'm cheap and would rather find them on eBay than get them from a professional.
  16. 3rdlakerobert

    Unusual Snorkel Imprint

    Some time ago I bought this Snorkel and noticed that its imprint was different. Can anyone shed light on why this imprint is different from the others? BTW, it does not have the usual imprint farther down on the barrel.
  17. brendonsie

    Australian Sheaffer Snorkel

    Hi all Just thought i would share my latest find an Australian made Snorkel. I never knew that Sheaffer had a factory in Australia until now. Im guessing the pen is a Snorkel Valiant made in the late 50's however that is based off american made pens. Only thing i can say for certain is that the pen was given as a gift in 1968.
  18. ELSpartan44

    Snorkel Colored Grip Sections

    I attempted to get this question answered on a different site to no avail, so I figured I'd try here. The original thread was about self-colored grip sections on the later, more "rare" Snorkels. (http://fountainpenboard.com/forum/index.php?/topic/6943-snorkels-with-self-colored-sections/) My understanding is that periwinkle, fern green, sage green, buckskin tan, vermillion, and the "new" burgundy did have grip sections that were colored, but peacock blue and mandarin do not (are black instead). Not sure about fiesta red. Correct me if any of these statements are wrong. My question is whether any of the later production standard colors (pastel blue, green, gray) switched to a colored section too. Actually, I don't know whether they were still produced when the new colors were released. In other words, is a green snorkel with a green section always going to be either sage or fern, and is a blue snorkel with a blue section always going to be periwinkle?
  19. lyonlover

    My First Fountain Pen

    Hello everyone! I'm not new to this forum (I've been lurking for a few months), but this is my first post. I've never had a fountain pen before, but I've done a lot of research. I've been fascinated with the Sheaffer Snorkel for quite a while now and I bought one (a Valiant model) off of a popular online auction website on Sunday night. When I got home and opened the package however, the nib was visibly bent. The seller said that the pen was in "working" condition and was "restored", but one tine seems badly bent and is touching the other one. Also, the blind cap tube has quite a bit of resistance to pulling out and has some play when extended (is this normal though?). The rest of the pen is in beautiful condition, and even comes with a matching pencil, box, and papers. The seller says he does not accept returns, but this may be an exception as the item is not as described. I attached some photos too. PS: I don't know if this is the right section to make a new post in, though. I don't know if this thread should be moved somewhere else.
  20. bob1123

    Pfm Repair Question

    I've recently started repairing a PFM I purchased a while back and I've come across something interesting. The sack was completely ossified and required replacement. Somehow, the snorkel tube had been pushed pretty far inside the sac bushing. There was even a small indention where it seems someone tried to pull it out with some pliers. I noticed when I got the snorkel tube and sac bushing out of the sac protector the end of the snorkel tube looked as if part of the plastic might be broken off??? I'm unsure if the end part is supposed to be round or not. I compared the end to some pictures I've seen online and I'm not sure. Can anyone confirm or deny that the plastic piece on end of the snorkel tube which goes inside the sac looks correct? Notice how plastic seems to only come from half the tube.
  21. Boiling Black Coffee

    Finally, You Are All Here-my Snorkel Collection

    I started to get interested in Snorkel when a friend gave me a Snorkel Valiant, after took a closer look at this series, I decided to make this series as one of my majors. I focus on different colors, and take models into consideration at the same time. Now, I have all the colors and almost all the models. Well... Snorkel Masterpiece is too hard to find one. I have to admit it that some of them are really hard to find, it is almost impossible to find a rare color Snorkel in China, I have to hunt on ebay. Fortunately, I collect them all in four months, it is much quicker and easier than my imagination. Left to right: Demonstrater, Triumph, black Autograph, burgundy Signature, pastel green Signature, gray Signature, fern Crest, peacock Sentinel, periwinkle Valiant, fiesta red Clipper, mandarin Statesman, pastel blue Sovereign, sage green Saratoga, vermilion Admiral, buckskin tan Special Six rare colors, almost all of them are NOS, only Statesman is used Two "not easy" colors fiesta red and vermilion, they are relly hard to tell from picture if one of them is absent pastel green, sage green and fern, they are easy to tell at a glance if the picture is clear enough pastel bule, peacock and periwinkle, hard to tell, but not that hard a mysterious gray Signature, maybe off-catalog or custom-made Finally, you are all here! Articles about Snorkel are easy to find, but most of them just give a outline of this series, some Chinese sources are even wrong, so I still have some questions. Does a first-year Snorkel have a nib code? Will a open nib Snorkel be a first-year Snorkel if it has golden tube and disk-type spring shoulder?
  22. Hi, I was wondering whether the Sentinel Snorkel has to have the end cap loosened for heavier amounts of writing, kind of how you might on a TWSBI Vac or Pilot 823. The reason I ask is that after about of page of writing using the Sentinel, it seems to die on me. I haven't tried loosening it after a heavy writing session lately as it's not in rotation at the moment. I recently had the pen repaired by indy-pen-dance so it should be in good shape snorkel-wise. My guess is the answer is "no" but I'd be happy to be proven wrong on this one for sure.
  23. Hi Folks, I bought a sheaffer snorkel from ebay. It has all the snorkel parts alright. I bought a repair kit, and I replaced the sac and the o-ring. I also replaced the seal that comes in the nib section. yet, the pen does not suck ink. I followed the advice in another post here and tested the barrel by submerging in water; I found that the end of barrel has a macro crack. So, I went on and used a tap to seal the crack just for testing purposes. Then, I found the blind cap also has air leak. I found a plastic glue in the hardware store to fix the crack. My problem now is how to fix the blind cap leak. I disassembled the blind cap and it has a rubber that does not seem to be bad. Is there a way to fix the blind cap seal? maybe by applying adhesive or replacing it with any rubber piece. and how? Thanks.
  24. Well, I just came across this snorkel that gave the the biggest challenge so far. It was badly rusted inside, so I should pat my shoulder for opening up the pen and not damaging the parts. It was after a week of effort, anyway. Then I thought it should be just fine from there, until...I heated up snorkel to remove the tube and sac section to re-sac. In my past experience, the tube and sac section are pretty tightly connected and using moderate force it would give way..but not this stubborn pen. I just pulled the tube out! Now I am scratching my head and don't know how to get the sac section out. Any help?
  25. Smothier

    Sheaffer Snorkel Barrel Crack

    Hi Everyone, I've recently got a hold of a Sheaffer Snorkel from the bay. Upon receiving it, I noticed a crack at the plunger end, usually a far too common and unfortunately fatal issue in snorkels. As it's in the UK, parts are notoriously difficult to find, let alone for a justifiable price. I actually noticed the issue after winning, but having already paid, the seller just played dumb and completely denied it, even though it was blatantly obvious. Since I got it for a good price, however, it isn't worth much in returning. The crack itself is perhaps about 3/8 of an inch, roughly the same distance away from the breather hole. Internally - the pen is sound and fixable, just that little crack can cause issues. I've looked around and and I've seen Tenax 7R advertised wholeheartedly by Ron Z, however it's nearly impossible to find in the UK. (and for a good price) My question is if there's any alternatives I can find cheaply in the UK, something trustworthy as I have little option for failure. I'm confident in my ability to fix pens and have a steady hand (should have been a surgeon but chemistry wasn't my strong point hehe). Also, provided a picture of the crack. Excuse the horrible quality, I needed to MSPaint some things of help. Thanks in advance.





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