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Found 17 results

  1. My first vintage Sheaffer pen was a Triumph 550GT pen, that needless to say, wasn't equipped with a Triumph nib. But it was thanks to this pen that I found out about Sheaffer's legendary conical nibs. It's been a while since I've been under the impression that all Sheaffer conical nibs were denominated Triumph but just yesterday I got a Sheaffer Stylist MkII pen that sports a nib that is a conical one but seems to be referenced as "Skripsert". Can anyone clarify what defines one or the other nib? Thanks in advance!
  2. I just received this pen via an online auction and I'm trying to pin down the identity. It's a Sheaffer, cartridge/squeeze converter, "Gold Electroplated", "Sheaffer Made in U.S.A.", nib is inlaid 585 14K gold. I think I have it narrowed down to either an Imperial 727 or 777. The differences between the two models isn't clear to me. Any help would be appreciated.
  3. Recently got this and a Duofold from a colleague. The nib is in excellent condition and writes quite well, but the internal sac has crumbled to dust. Would it be possible to buy a new sac for this in India? If not, what are my sources online for buying parts for this? I think this is a Sheaffer Triumph but I might be wrong and more information on the pen is always welcome.
  4. Hello, I'm seeing if anyone has tackled this problem. As I was trying to wrestle a Sheaffer Triumph nib off a vac filler, the feed snapped. The nib and the rest of it is out, but there's a length of the feed still stuck in the collar. I've tried to soak it and twist it out (It'd be nice to preserve the collar for a spare, just in case) but it's not really budging. I do have a spare nib/feed/collar combo from a past botched vac fill project, and am hoping to at least get the collar out, so I can replace the Triumph nib unit and get this pen working. Am planning to drill into the feed, see if it holds, and then twist out the collar. If not, I will possibly just drill out the feed and then use a larger drill bit to then twist out the emptied collar. Thoughts?
  5. gammada

    Triumph 550 Or Targa Lacque?

    Hello, I recently purchased my first Sheaffer ever, a lovely Triumph 550 GT (I believe, please correct me if the model is wrong) in black with gold trim and matching ballpoint pen (the clip acts as the pen button). I've been dreaming of owning a vintage Sheaffer gold in-laid nib for quite a while but it was only a few days ago that I finally found this set that really pleased my eye. However, after getting home from meeting with the seller, I found to my dismay that the converter was stuck into the section. The pen appears to have been not properly taken care of and I suspect that either, it never really got a flush, or the owner left ink to dry inside the pen. I left the it in a water/ammonia solution for around a day, and the converter it's starting to turn, but you'll get inky fingers wherever you touch it, meaning there was a lot of ink solidified in there. To add insult to injury, I also found a crack on the barrel from where barrel and section meet going up to the blind cap for about an inch lengthwise. I didn't pay that much for the pen (roughly $35) but am feeling a bit disappointed by it. As such, I contacted the seller, and he's offering a swap for another Sheaffer pen he has on sale. It is a Targa Lacque with gold in-laid nib in Blue Ronce trim. It is much better looking that the pen I bought and it still has the original box it came in. It's slightly more expensive ($70) but I guess it will be better to invest in restoration or repairs with this pen, rather than to stay with the Triumph. What do you think Sheaffer experts?
  6. I have recently got into vintage pens and bought a few Esterbrooks (which i love now btw) on ebay and resacced and repaired them and a waterman crusader, and I really loved the look of the Sheaffer triumph type nibs so I bought a desk pen vac fill version for a good price. The filling mech doesn't work anymore as the rubber washer inside has fallen apart so I need to get the nib off so I can replace it. Well I've tried everything to get the nib off and I'm at the point that I'm afraid if I try anything more drastic I will break it. So I figured I would ask the pros on here what tricks they might have that maybe I haven't tried yet. I've soaked the pen in ammonia for 3 days already and ran it in my ultrasonic cleaner off and on in ammonia a bunch in those 3 days as well to try and help get it into the pen to loosen it up. After soaking I used my heat gun to heat the section up to even hotter than I would have liked which was hot enough to have a hard time holding it with bare fingers. The I really tried cranking on the nib with just my finger power to try and rotate it to break it loose but no luck.. I'm afraid to use any mechanical means to put more force on it and end up snapping the feed or something. Does anyone have and suggestions of what else I can try? If I can't figure anything else out I'm just going to have to really get it hot and use some padded pliers or something to crank on the nib and pray nothing breaks. Also please don't suggest I send the pen to someone for repair, I don't believe in paying someone to do something that I could learn how to do myself given I try hard enough. I like to learn as much as I can and try to be as self-sufficient as I can, and I recognize that there are people out there that know MUCH more than me but I'm hoping they could give some input to help me out so I can try to do it myself instead of paying someone else and me learning nothing. Thank you. http://i.imgur.com/yRVVIz9l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/J7F1Z41l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zaIkkvul.jpg
  7. I was thinking about getting a Pilot with a WA (Waverly) nib and was wondering if any of you have used it and compared it with the writing experience of a Sheaffer Triumph nib, which has that slight upturned nib as well. I think that is called a "Waverly" type of nib though I don't think Sheaffer called it as such. I've seen the excellent thread where there's a visual comparison of the Triumph nib with the Pilot WA nib but I was wondering about comparing the feel of writing of one versus the other. (https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/223586-pilot-custom-742-waverly-nib/) I have a couple pens with Triumph nibs (Imperial II Deluxe and Sentinel Snorkel) and I love both of those nibs; was wondering if this should be next on the list?
  8. Boiling Black Coffee

    A Sheaffer Triumph Crest Masterpiece?

    A friend of mine ask me about this pen today, I think it is a Triumph Crest Masterpiece, but I am still not sure. It is an early Triumph, I think, black radiet and Vac-fill. A 14K hallmark can be found on the clip, but no hallmark on cap. And I think it is mixed, because of the absence of white dot. A Crest Masterpiece's cap should be made by solide gold, I am not sure whether this pen's cap is solide gold or not. The cap is much heavier than my Crest's GF cap. So, is it a Crest Masterpiece? Have it ever been made in other color?
  9. brendonsie

    Newest Sheaffer In My Collection.

    Hi Guys Just wanted to share with you the latest addition to my collection. after looking at richardspens and penhero sites im 95% Sure this is a 1950-51 TM Triumph. I Can't resist a nice gold filled pen Thanks for looking.
  10. Smothier

    Sheaffer Snorkel Barrel Crack

    Hi Everyone, I've recently got a hold of a Sheaffer Snorkel from the bay. Upon receiving it, I noticed a crack at the plunger end, usually a far too common and unfortunately fatal issue in snorkels. As it's in the UK, parts are notoriously difficult to find, let alone for a justifiable price. I actually noticed the issue after winning, but having already paid, the seller just played dumb and completely denied it, even though it was blatantly obvious. Since I got it for a good price, however, it isn't worth much in returning. The crack itself is perhaps about 3/8 of an inch, roughly the same distance away from the breather hole. Internally - the pen is sound and fixable, just that little crack can cause issues. I've looked around and and I've seen Tenax 7R advertised wholeheartedly by Ron Z, however it's nearly impossible to find in the UK. (and for a good price) My question is if there's any alternatives I can find cheaply in the UK, something trustworthy as I have little option for failure. I'm confident in my ability to fix pens and have a steady hand (should have been a surgeon but chemistry wasn't my strong point hehe). Also, provided a picture of the crack. Excuse the horrible quality, I needed to MSPaint some things of help. Thanks in advance.
  11. Oh great...a new pen-session.... Last year I bought a lot of five or so pens because they were all Parkers, except for this one Sheaffer with a Triumph nib. I wrote with it a while, then cleaned and put it away...but the full-fledged obsession just hit. Where's the best place to find info on the nibs, the pens that 'wear' them, and the filling systems? This is some form of plunger-fill but I am unsure if it's Touchdown, or what. How do I date and ID this pen? It's an admitted Frankenpen with a non-matching Admiral cap that more or less fits. The nib reads Sheaffer'S, 14k, and is probably a fine. I love it. And...where's the best place to get more? Thanks! I appreciate any help you can offer!
  12. AAAndrew

    Sheaffer Sales Training Video 1943

    I'm double posting this, to here and to the Pen History forum. If this violates the rules too badly, I apologize and will delete this one if necessary. I have been converting our old VHS tapes to DVD and in our very large collection I ran across one that I had gotten some years ago (over 11 at least). I don't remember where I got it but I believe it may have been someone from this or some other fountain pen forum back earlier this century. https://youtu.be/A8BiarUbUJE The video is from 1943 and is, I believe, a training film for Sheaffer salesmen. It's made by Jam Handy Productions, known for their training and industrial films. In the film a salesman expresses frustration to his boss about the number of pens Sheaffer is producing, which is not enough to satisfy his dealers. The boss then explains about everything that Sheaffer is doing for the war effort and explains why they are producing fewer pens. The film then goes on to address several other "concerns" of the dealers the salesmen works with, including quality of construction of the pens and consistency of leadership. These questions give us then the opportunity to lean about the new Sheaffer Triumph nib, Scrip writing fluid (they never use the term "ink"), and even to see old W.A. Sheaffer himself as well as his son Craig who has been running the business since 1937. The quality is not great since it's most likely a multi-generational VHS copy that's over a decade old, but it's still fun to watch. I tried searching the archives and the only Sheaffer film I can find referenced is the old 26 letters one. https://youtu.be/A8BiarUbUJE
  13. ADEMiller

    Vintage Sheaffer Vac-Fill...

    Hello all! I know this has been answered on a few other threads, but I could use some more help. So I bought a Sheaffer vac-fil with a triumph nib and was wondering the best way to go about making it write. The pen is in semi working order, but the piston hasn't been greased in about 50, so it's stiff (don't want to force it) From what I have read, it sounds like the nib unit needs to be removed, so how is the best way to do this (without a ton of fancy equipment)? Also what is all this about "packing material" what is it? does it need to be replaced? Thanks, Alexander
  14. So, I could use your help identifying a pen, again. It's another Sheaffer - the nib is labelled -79- Lifetime - U. S. Pat Off. - Made in USA 14K. The body and cap are striated brown and the white dot is on the end of the cap. The clip is quite plain, and cap band is medium-sized (which is causing me some trouble on the identification). It's obviously a vacuum-fil - I'm a bit afraid to try and fill it because I'm sure it's been a long time and I assume the components are degraded. I haven't dipped it to try writing with it. I've found some pens on-line that would suggest this maybe a Crest Triumph model - but the ones I found had the white dot above the clip - so I thought this might be a pre-world war II model. As usual, I appreciate your expert help and advice. Thanks!
  15. Plusfoursmax

    Is This Worth A Punt?

    Hi, http://www.ebay.com/itm/371136116548 I am watching this auction on ebay, and apart from the rather interesting use of the term 'Quite good condition - few surface scratches' the 8th photo shows the whole nib unit separate from the rest of the pen. I'm kinda thinking this is not the natural position for a pen in good condition, it looks a bit crackly round the edge of the nib; Is that right? If not, what would it take to make the pen better? I think a vac-fill would do well in my home, but I don't want a basket case. Looking at Richard Binder's site, it appears that the nib should be threaded, but maybe this is a different type? Thanks Max
  16. Komitadjie

    Help Me Id Today's Finds?

    Made a run up to a local antique place today, and I stumbled over a booth that had a fair number of Shaeffers! I picked up four items that drew my attention, and I'm curious about ID on 'em! None of them fill, of course, but the pencil in the snorkel set works just fine. First, a pen-and-pencil set, open nib, snorkel filler. I think this is likely an Admiral or a Saratoga? The gunk on the barrel is just tape residue, it comes right off with a light rub of denatured alcohol, thank fully, leaving the barrels un-marked. I was a bit worried about that when I picked them up! http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/PENS-1_zpsa7f09d77.jpg http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/PENS-2_zps94dbc890.jpg Next is a Tuckaway of some kind, touchdown filler, triumph nib. Beyond that I'm completely baffled. The diameter is a LOT larger than the other Triumph pens I have, I've included a picture of it at the end for comparison. The section is also transparent, although rather dark amber at this point. I'm not sure if that's degradation of the plastic with time, or crud on the interior, although I'd probably guess just the plastic breaking down a bit. As you can see, the cap has a fine, engraved pattern on it, as well as an engraved name. The clip is a tiny little thing, and the touchdown tube is hugely fat, and very short. http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/PENS-3_zpse61b9fc9.jpg http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/PENS-4_zps4e170421.jpg http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/PENS-5_zps8b252e2d.jpg Last in the list is what I am fairly sure is a Touchdown Imperial, although I have no idea what model. It is also Triumph nibbed, and has three metallic points on the side for the cap's clutch to hold. http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/PENS-6_zps382796fd.jpg http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/PENS-7_zpsae2620b5.jpg And here's a quick shot of the different Triumph nibs. The front-most on the gray pen is a Valiant, for reference. The center one is the Tuckaway, and the top one is the Imperial. The sizes are really, really different! http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p603/Komitadjie/PENS-8_zps6922f05f.jpg Any help you guys can give me in identifying these would be greatly appreciated. I'm working on determining which ones I should send to a pro for restoration, and which I should work with myself. I'd really like to learn to restore these lovely old pens myself, it looks like a LOT of fun! I just don't want to accidentally hose up some rare, expensive model that I'll want to shoot myself for later out of pure inexperience! EDIT: Forgot to include the picture of the three nibs!
  17. Harlequin

    Inlaid Nib Removal & Stub

    Ok, I need the wisdom of the Sheaffer experts. I came across this while perusing an antique store recently. I did not get it, just took exceedingly crappy cell phone pics: As you can see (I hope anyway, the pictures should be good enough to see this at least), the section is cracked to the point of missing a piece, right where the threads are. Normally I would say that means this pen is toast (at least the nib). But what I don't think can be seen as definitively or easily is that the nib is a stub. I know it is really difficult to remove an inlaid nib, but what are everyone's thought on trying a nib transplant to another pen? since this pen would cost me around $7 or so, I was thinking of trying to find another parts pen to take the nib section from and getting the two switched. Is it worth it?

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