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  1. Hi all, after I posted only yesterday about how I use my Parker Jotter pencil as an ‘out of office’/‘site visit’ tool because it is robust, it has today developed a problem. It is ‘jammed’ The lead that is currently in its mouth/tip/jaws has worn down. No surprises there. The surprise/problem is that, while there are several new/spare leads inside the pencil’s body, no more lead is coming out of the pencil. I have pressed the button on top of the pencil a huge number of times, holding its mouth/tip/jaws downwards, but no new lead is feeding through its actuator mechanism The actuator mechanism is making the same sound that it always has done, so I don’t think that the mechanism has broken. Having had no success using the conventional means of feeding the next lead, I removed them all except for one and repeatedly pushed the pencil’s actuator button again. That didn’t work either. I then tried to feed a new lead in to the mouth/tip/jaws directly (i.e. backwards, from the outside towards the inside) but have not been able to push the remnants of the previous lead back up in to the body of the pencil. Although I am male, I even resorted to digging out the instruction leaflet that came with the pencil and actually read it The leaflet only shows how to load new leads in to the top of the pencil. I do not have any pins or needles that are fine enough that I could push them up through the pencil’s mouth/tip/jaws to force the old lead out. So, do any of you out in FPN-land have any suggestions for how I can get the next lead to feed in to the pencil? If so, my thanks in advance for your answers. Cheers, M.
  2. Hi, I hope someone can help me, because I don't know what I'm doing. I caught the fountain pen bug about three years ago and bought several pens -- inexpensive ones to start with. When they developed problems, I tried giving them a thorough cleaning, and I still had problems with them and gave up. My pens have been stored unused ever since. Something recently sparked an interest again and I decided to give it another try. I flushed and cleaned a Pilot Metropolitan, a Lamy Safari, and two Jinhaos: an X450 and X750. The Pilot and Lamy are writing beautifully now, but I can't get either of the Jinhaos to write at all. I put a "new" cartridge in one and a converter in the other one. (The cartridge is three years old; do they dry up if they've been in the box untouched?) I need to be educated, please. What can I do to get them working again? I liked them as well as the more expensive pens way back then, and I would like to be able to use them again. Thanks!
  3. Hello! I've had a Pilot Decimo for probably just around a year now. It's got a F nib, and I have a CON-50 converter installed. I've always used the same ink in it (I believe it's Diamine's Majestic Purple). I've never had any problems with it either, it's worked perfectly! Then, a few months ago (1-2) months, the ink flow just became terrible. It skips, sometimes completely stops, and is terrible to right with. I have to trace my letters five time before you can actually see the entire letter with no skips. I've cleaned out the pen fully (I used just water, I've never used any soap or anything with my pens) and it still doesn't work right. I don't know why it's not working. I really hope I haven't broken it, and I just want my favorite pen to be back to its former glory. The pen used to work so well, does anyone know why it might not be writing correctly? Thank you so much, and dear gosh I hope I put this in the right place.
  4. My Pilot Custom Heritage with CON-70 converter has worked flawlessly for several years now but since my last refill I cant seem fill it properly anymore. I believe the problem lies with the feed because my converter works just fine in my wifes CH 91 and her converter cannot fill my pen. Comparing her pen to mine Ive noticed a slight difference in the feeds. It looks like the small cylinder in the center of the feed is pushed inward on my pen. Could that be the issue and would it be safe to push it back? Has anybody had similar issues with their pens?
  5. Hi, I recently decided to upgrade my paper with Rhodia, but so far I have had only terrible experience with it. I write with Waterman's Harmonious Green, but the ink seems to never fully absorb. It is safe to touch with e.g. paper towel or another page in just about 30 seconds, but even after a week or more all it takes is just to lightly touch the paper with little sweaty hand and the ink smears like it was fresh. When I write on regular Xerox paper or a normal notepad from a supermarket, it is just perfectly fine and no problems there. So, I reckon it must be either me or the ink. Since I never had any problems with my sweat being overly aggressive (watch straps or plating on them last me for years) my bet is on the ink. I think it is just not compatible with Rhodia paper. Can someone here perhaps tell me if you have encountered same problem with Waterman on better papers? Also, if anyone can recommend me some other emerald-green-ish ink that is holding well on Rhodia it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  6. SteveLTN

    Pilot Custom 74 Being Very Dry

    Hi, I received my Pilot Custom 74 (Fine) today. I found that it is very dry without applying pressure, in other words the pen doesn't write on it's own weight. In order to write with it, I need to apply more pressure than I usually do (in comparison with Metropolitan & Sailor 1911, I generally write without applying much pressure on the paper). Since the ink flows well when the two tines are apart under pressure, I suppose the feed works well. I wonder if it is my bad luck or all Pilot #5 fine nibs are like that? Thank you in advance.
  7. Hvostik

    £5 Parker Sonnet - Weird Nib

    Hello, everyone. First post - please, be kind. So, I came across a CT Flighter Sonnet (1994 version) at a charity shop I volunteer at. Marked "Sonnet Q.I France". Old Parker logo - arrow through ellipsis(?). Feather engravings on clip are distinct and sharp - good sign. However, the nib seems 'off'. See images - too much tipping, and layered to form a ridge on upper part. Blob of tipping on end if tip (no pic, as couldn't fix pen to microscope in that position). The engravings are nowhere near as sharp as the ones on the clip- not sure if this indicates an issue. It writes fine though... Not as wet as I would have liked, but hey, for a fiver, can I really complain? So, my questions are: Do you, penthusiasts, think it is genuine? If so, is the nib's condition a problem? Should I attempt to sand it down using micro-mesh? Should I return it? As a sixth-form students, I don't think my budget will stretch to a whole new nib unit...
  8. As the title says. I realised that my nib was running a little dry and, as with a lot of vacuum fillers, I went to unscrew the piston knob at the top to break the seal so more ink could flow through. However, upon trying I literally could not move this piston knob no matter how hard I try. Granted, I don't go to the gym every single day, but damn. This is ridiculous. I've never had this problem before. Any help? Edit - I used it yesterday with absolutely no problems and I have had the pen for ~2 weeks. I unscrewed the piston knob yesterday and I didn't screw it on with a stupid amount of force. Edit 2 - Even with silicon grease this thing won't budge.
  9. OTrizy

    Twsbi Eco Dry In A Way?

    I don't think it just me or my Ecos but I have and issue with my eco. I need to prime the feed about every 2-4 pages I write. For example first time in the morning I do is to write essays/text in general and after 2 pages my shading ink is not shading anything and is a lot lighter then my letters are missing some parts like T letters the '-' part or something like that then I screw my piston for a little bit so I forced some more ink to my feed and after a while I have the same problem. I know some others have the same issues but did you guys find a solution to this or just try to deal with it. Btw I write in Rhodia paper with Noodler's Blue-Black Air-Corp. Twsbi Eco M and F nib.
  10. Oldtimer

    Twsbi Mini Problem With O-Ring: Help!

    I had cleaned my TWSBI mini but when the water was clear after a few flushings, I still saw some black specs and threads hanging from the piston. So I disassembled it completely and made sure everything was out. The piston looked good, perfect. On the next water flushing after assembling there was still some of this debris. I removed the nib and the section and looked into the empty barrel from the side of the nib and found this. The small o-ring is dissolving, kaput. The ink was Black Swan in Australian Roses. Since the nib is EF I guess I think it was too long on the barrel? Was it another of the previous inks that did it? I will never know, but the area where it is right now makes it impossible to be replaced by me. I suppose I can send it back to have this o-ring replaced... Just wanted to know who else has exhibited this kind of defect. I will get better photos, but surely, I think I have to return to TWSBI.
  11. Leon_Extint

    Question About The Visconti Hs

    Hello people =) this is my first post and sadly a not pleasant one, and here it comes, i just bought my visconti homo sapiens dark age, last week, first day worked (or it seem to) properly, afterwards when i uncaped it i got ink leak, cleaned the nib, cleaned the pen, the feed and everything and tried to use it again, but it again got some leak, ive read post about people getting leak issues with this fountain pen, however most of them (not to say all ive read) have leak from the union of the nib unit to the pen, my leakage is from the feed.. i clean the feed again and i get more leak just after writing a little bit, wonder if theres a way to fix it instead of sending it back to warranty, thanks in advance and great forum !
  12. lyonlover

    Sheaffer Legacy 2...is This Normal?

    Hello everyone, About a month ago, I bought a Sheaffer Snorkel Valiant and promptly returned it. That was the first fountain pen I'd ever bought for myself. It wasn't a very good experience (and I'm not whining about it either) and I was pretty disappointed. Then, fast-forward to three hours ago, the mailman rings my doorbell, I sign the receipt paper, and I whip out a box knife to unpackage my newest purchase. I'd bought it from a reputable fountain pen dealer in Wisconsin as a New Old Stock pen, and made sure that I had good communication with the seller. I play with the snazzy touchdown mechanism with water for five minutes, then fill it with Waterman Mysterious Blue... Without delay, the pen lays ink, but it is quite dry. The line is a faint shade of blue, and has gotten darker over the past two hours, but is also quite scratchy. I read that Waterman inks are supposed to be lubricating, but this pen is nowhere as smooth or as wet as my friend's $15 Pilot Metropolitan using the same ink. There doesn't look to be anything wrong with the pen, visibly I mean. Is this normal for a brand-new fountain pen to be scratchy and dry? I've only tested various fountain pens in stores and used vintage pens. Please help. I like this pen a lot and I hope to be able to use it for at least decades. By the way, it's a fine nib pen.
  13. I've been doing calligraphy for about a year now and ever since I've always had this frustration about my very tremorous hands. I've been trying to implant lifting my wrist off of the paper when I do my capitals and big flourishes but it's always so shaky that I just need to carry the stroke all the way without lifting... So I have a question, is it really important to lift the wrist off of the paper? And if the answer is no, I would still like advice from people who also suffer from very tremorous hands of how you manage to control your stroke and how you train your hand to be smooth...
  14. Marcel Hanardi

    Problem On Sheaffer Taranis

    Hello from Jakarta, It's great that I could find this great forum for fountain pen where I could learn so much form many people. I just have this hobby recently and really interested in fountain pen (Actually, I've already liked fountain pen for quite a long time but only considering to start collecting it recently). So I've bought my first fountain pen, the Sheaffer Taranis. It came with the converter but I decided to buy the cartridges also. First I tried to use the cartridges because it was more practical than filling up the converter, considering I've never use one. After a few days I started to like the pen and found it worked well. Then a few days ago I tried to use the converter for the first time, it was unique for me. The first time I tried to fill up the converter I found a problem right away, it won't suck the ink from the bottle! I thought there might be some air inside, so I tried to do it many times to push the air out, yet still nothing happened. Then I tried a different way which I dipped the converter directly to bottle to fill it, and it worked. I put it to the pen and started using it. For some time it worked well then it stopped writing. I thought I was running out of ink (which is impossible because I just inked it up). I opened the barrel and saw it still had a lot of ink inside, so I turned the piston a little bit just to push the ink down, then the pen started to write again. But after using it for some writing, the same thing happened again. I don't know what's wrong with it. So my questions are: 1. Is it normal for a converter to behave so or it's just me being picky? 2. Do I have to push the piston each time to draw the ink out? it's really a bother for me because I have pushed the piston about 2-3x in 30 minutes of writing (not 30 minutes of non-stop writing). 3. Shouldn't I be able to draw the ink from the bottle with the converter attached to the grip section? or is there some type of converter which I have to put the converter directly to the bottle if I want to draw the ink out of it? Thanks!
  15. Ladies and gentlemen, I checked the repair Q&A forum but my questions are a bit more general I think so I decided to post here. Background: I'm new to "proper" fountain pens, used a fountain pen for decades as a kid and young adult, always liked that smoothness and speed featherweight pressure facilitates. Now I use Pilot Metropolitan - Fine nib. I was using Pilot black ink (see picture attached) that I got with it. Works like a charm. Extremely light pressure, high speed writing is a breeze and smooth. I saw the Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue which I used for decades is still made and around so I promptly got a bottle and to my surprise, it caused a lot of problems. Issue: Pen required a lot more pressure all of a sudden. Really heavy pressure to the point of severly slowing down my writing. Even having to repeat some characters because they just got lost. Terrible to the point of uselessness. With medium pressure it would manage extremely thin lines or none at all. It would work okay if I flush it (with a drop of water still in the system) and a refill. I use a rubber bladder converter that came with the pen. Nib is fine. I checked it, it's fine and changed ink back to pilot black and everything is smooth again.Is this normal, is the Pelikan 4001 ink just so "dry"/thick it just won't work with this type of pen?Is this pen generally known to be so sensitive? (because I doubt products like this Pelikan ink would stay on the market if most pens didn't work with it)or do I have a different problem with the pen that I haven't addressed?If's this pen being fussy, any recommendations on more ink-tolerant pens?If I have to limit my choice of ink to only the most wet ones, any recommendations? Looking for blue/blue-black. Thanks in advance, z. edits: clarity
  16. Hello, I just bought a Vintage Montblanc No. 38 ballpoint pen from Germany. The problem is that I also bought a refill which doesn't fit. I did my homework of figuring out what refill would fit the pen. I bought a Montblanc refill 901L M with a blue adapter at end of the refill. I found pictures of the very refill used on this pen. What is wrong? Please help me find a refill that will fit. Found a picture of the exact pen and refill here on the forum (not my pen but exact what it looks like) http://images55.fotosik.pl/3/c745b0321b7fdd23.jpg Thanks Kristian in Norway
  17. Mob Mentality

    Strange Parker Nib

    Hello, I seem to have come across something strange, (atleast it seems strange to me). I have about 8 or 9 Parker 45s including various flighters with various sized nibs the vast major being 14k. I have noticed that on all of the 14k nibs save for one that the slit does not go all the way up into the breather hole. I find this odd unless I'm missing something. Is this some kind of error? All of the nibs are marked "Parker 14k MADE IN USA" I know I saw in another post that someone encountered the same problem and cut the slit all the way to the breather hole. Any ideas as to the reason for this? There has to be some explaination right? The pictures below show the 14k nib with the slit up to the breather and 2 nibs that are almost to the breather hole. I apologize for the the picture quality. On a side note all of the steel nibs have the slit all the way into the breather hole. Will this effect the pens performance? I have also included a screenshot of the P 45 nibs from http://www.fivestarpens.com/parker_nibs.html which shows a variation between not fully slit and fully slit. http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah48/Davide_Borrelli/e44c6bca-6ba9-4bc4-9dbc-517b82e961bc_zpsgoa3ug7b.jpg http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah48/Davide_Borrelli/5b9030df-9067-49c8-98af-ea1ff807e711_zpsyr8ywkxh.jpg http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah48/Davide_Borrelli/06607f4f-c51a-4c27-ac49-129e4076ea5b_zpsxz7eh4hx.jpg http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah48/Davide_Borrelli/Screen%20Shot%202015-11-02%20at%2012.28.50%20PM_zpsex8tnqei.png
  18. Hello community, I have a problem here. I have been using a Midori Traveler's Notebook for some time now and got myself a Montblanc pen recently...perfect combination, I thought. However, I am experiencing some problems here: the paper does not accept the ink every now and then. The nib slides across the paper and it seems like the paper was coated so that nothing wet stays on it...weird thing to desribe but I hope you understand what I mean. The effect is not everywhere on the paper...there seem to be some spots on a page where this occurs. Here are some facts about my "equipment": Montblanc 145pMidori refill #005 (Free Diary)Ink: Montblanc Toffee BrownHas anyone here ever heard of these problems? I though, Midori was a very ink-friendly paper...
  19. Here is a video about it: The angle is bad and the quality too, but maybe its enough to show the problems. Is it normal, or something is wrong with the pen/nib? Thanks!
  20. Hello there! I own a new pen from the "Originals of their time 1931" Yellow Gold series. I decided to sell it via ebay, and after examining the pen I've found out a problem (or not a problem?) The thing is that the plastic (resin?) part of the barrel (on top of the pen) has a matt brown color. But as far as I know, this part shall be black. It looks like the color faded with time. Photos attached. I have several questions: 1) Is this case common for this Pelikan series?2) Can this issue be considered as a problem? I mean does it influence the price?3) Is there any way to fix it? Many thanks!
  21. Lanep

    Youth Fountain Pen Problem

    Hi everyone, I have a Chinese copy of the Parker 51 called Youth. It has a sentimental value for me, and I've been using it for a few years, but about a month ago I ran out of ink (which was old and started to smell). I bought new ink today, but unfortunately, the sack (where the vacuum is) is now under pressure. It's like that because the pen is probably clogged (combine not writing for a month or so + old ink), so now when I try to vacuum new ink, it doesn't suck it in. How do I fix this? The pen is identical to this one in the pictures attached.
  22. MartinPhilipson

    New Hemisphere With Flow Issues

    Hello! I'm new on FPN, and mostly new to fountain pens. I've used cheap pens, but nothing more serious until now. I have just bought a new Waterman Hemisphere, but I immediately found it has some flow problems. Specifically, it is a hard starter, the first letter of a word is usually missing. Not exactly every word, but always the first word when I start writing. It can also skip in the middle of a line, though this is more uncommon. I have already googled a bit, and I have read this topic on FPN: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/259353-hemisphere-flow-issue/ I know enough to keep it capped when not using it, so I don't think it is because of ink drying. I have tried washing it, first with water, and then with water and a drop of dishwashing liquid (and then more water afterwards to remove dishwashing liquid), but it hasn't helped. I use a converter filled with Pelikan Edelstein Tanzanite ink, could this ink be at fault? Finally, I live in Sweden and bought the pen online. I have absolutely no idea where to find someone to look at or fix my pen in Sweden, fountain pens seems to be unknown here. So I very much hope that this is not "baby's bottom", because if it is I don't know what to do about it. How do I diagnose the problem?
  23. I wasnt sure where to post this, so hope it's ok here. Treated myself to this beautiful pen. After quite some time, it arrived today(after the last date in the listing) I did not expect it to be full of ink....which had leaked out, into the cap, and left a rust mark round the body of the pen, where the cap touches it: also, rust marks on the end of the filler mechanism. In the pictures on the listing, these marks were not shown - I held the pen against the picture, and there was a tiny mark in one of them, but nothing like the amount that there is, and no mention of it in the listing. Considering the cost of it, Im really unhappy about this. It's an absolutely beautiful pen, but I want to use it. I certainly did not expect it to be in this condition...and it was listed as working/useable, with no mention of these marks. It's beautiful I love it, I want to keep it, and Im hoping that the marks are basically 'cosmetic', and that I'll be able to clean them off( tried with a damp piece of kitchen roll, but no luck with that) I don't want to return it; but I *do* feel that it should not be in this condition. I've contacted the seller(yet to hear from him) and also eBay. Really don't know what, if anything I can do. This is the description in the listing: "Here is for sale a beautiful and RARE PARKER 51 FOUNTAIN PEN CUSTOM BY ARIEL KULLOCK 100% GOOD WORKING CONDITION, NO DINGS OR DEFECTS ON THIS PEN ORIGINAL PARKER 51 CUSTOMIZED BY ARIEL IN ARGENTINA THOSE PENS HAVE A LOT RELIEF ON CAP AND BODY WHICH MAKE THEM VERY NICE AND DESIRABLE THIS IS A MIX OF THE 2 TECHNIQUE CALLED " AQUA FORTE " ( ETCHING ) AND THE ADDITION OF PIECE OF BRASS OR SILVER ON TOP OF ENGRAVING THE THEME IS FOR ONE PEN THE WALL OF LAMENTATIONS WITH RABBIS PRAYING WITH DAVID STARS ON BODY AND FOR THE SECOND A RABBI BLOWING IN THE HORN AND FRUITS AND KITCHEN ITEMS AND DAVID STARS ON BODY THE FILLING SYSTEM IS AEROMETRIC CLASSIC PARKER 51 , NIBS HAVE FINE POINT" Am so disappointed.... Alex
  24. Just a rant... skip if you want to. Yesterday I acquired a Sailor Professional Gear Medium as my second "big pen," alongside a Parker Duofold Fine. It was the replacement for my attention-w***** Sonnet. ("If you don't use me for 16 hours, I'll punish you by drying out.") As I'm very happy with my Sailor Sapporo since day one, I expected epic goodness of its bigger brother/sister. Uh... no. I did what I would normally do: open the box, flush the pen (soapy luke-warm water, then clear water, thoroughly), and then I inked it. No dice. It wouldn't write. *ZILCH.* "Hm. Maybe I clogged it with iron gall ink sediment..." Flush, clean, dip the pen and write: still nothing. When pressing harder, the pen would suddenly start to write, but it was somewhat scratchy. So, I cleaned it out again, and decided to take my 20x loupe to it. Diagnosis: - Right tine misaligned, a fraction of a millimeter downward. - No slit: tines were completely clamped shut. Remedy: - Align tines. - Separate tines like SBRE Brown shows in some of his video's on how to make a pen wetter. Result of the next dip test: - Pen would write, but it showed baby bottom behavior: hard starting and skipping as soon as pressure diminished. So, lastly, I wrote a few number 8 and infinity signs on 12K micromesh paper, flossed the nib using a brass sheet, cleaned the nib thoroughly, and tried another dip test. AAAH, normal writing! Finally! I then refilled the pen, and did a normal writing test. It now writes as well and as smooth as my Sapporo (and Duofold). If I post the pen and then keep it between my thumb and index finger at the very end, I can drop the nib onto the paper, and drag the pen across. It will write under its own weight, as (IMHO) a good fountain pen should be able to do. To be honest, I'm a bit disappointed that a company, famous for making 'the smoothest nibs ever created' sends out a pen that doesn't even put ink onto the paper right after unboxing. That's ridiculous. This is a pen costing almost €300 (at least in the Netherlands), and I shouldn't have to fix the nib myself. (This was fixing, not tuning, IMHO.) It's fortunate that I restored a number of vintage pens and tinkered with a bunch of cheap Chinese pens (all are sold/traded by now), so that I do have the basic knowledge and experience to do small nib adjustments. I'm sure that any 'normal' customer would have sent this pen back within 5 minutes after unoboxing. /End Rant
  25. So I've had a problem with one Lamy Vista for some time, tried all the useful advice I could find here on FPN, to no avail, but finally managed, maybe this will help others, the vista is a transparent safari. The problem: the pen would write for a paragraph or two, and then stop dead in its tracks. I tried the usual soaking overnight in water, soaking overnight with a drop of dish soap, dismantling the pen... Nothing would work. In desperation I tried fiddling with the nib, bending it in the process, I even bought another converter... Nothing. The solution: the feed is made of two parts, there's a top section that comes off easily, and lo and behold, there was gunk made up of fibers and dried ink inside. Cleaned this and it's been three days with no problems - except for the battered nib but that's my fault. Please excuse the photo, it's the best my phone can do.





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