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Found 5 results

  1. kharrisma

    Chipped-Tip Regrinding?

    Hi Forum Folke, I recently picked up a Stratford "77" button-filler in fairly decent shape, except for the tip. The left tine has about half of the tipping material chipped off. There also appears to be a slight (15 degree or so) bend right at the tip, just behind the tipping material, but it's so even on both tines that it might have been manufactured that way (I have a Sheaffer Triumph that has similarly curved tips, though those are turned up rather than down... I mistakenly straightened them out before finding out that this upturn was deliberate. They survived being re-curved. Another lesson learned.) Anyway, is anyone aware of a decent tutorial on re-shaping a chipped tip? All of the stuff I have been able to scare up involves a really wrecked tip being turned into an untipped italic nib, or assumes that the tip is intact, but rough and in need of smoothing, or reshaping a broader tip to a finer one. Nothing dealing with partially missing tip material. I'd just send it off to someone that specializes in such things, but for two reasons: A), I like to learn these things as I go; it's a valuable skill to have when you're pursuing this hobby on a shoestring budget, and , as I understand it, Stratford is a second- or third-tier pen, of little value today, so investing a minimum of $60 to $80 or more to have the tip professionally restored isn't really a sensible option, not in my case, anyway. It's not even a flexible tip (it has a small amount of give under moderate pressure... a stiff semi-flex at best), which makes the prospect of a relatively expensive fix even less appealing. I'd attach pics, but I don't have any capability of taking macro pics that would show the tips in enough detail. Thanks for the read and any advice / pointers / links or what have you!
  2. I use a fountain pen for pretty much all the hand writing I do. The only exception is when I go in the lab. In that situation I usually carry a Parker Jotter Flighter with a Fisher Space Pen refill inside. One thing that as annoyed me ever since I started using that combo to remplace the Space Zebra (see https://penthusiast.wordpress.com/2014/07/25/the-space-zebra-f-7401/) I lost and was to lazy to make another copy of is that the tip of the Space Pen insert wiggles around when I write because the Space Pen refill has a slightly smaller diameter at the tip than the standard Quink refill. This has been a problem with multiple different Flighter Jotters. This makes writing with this ballpoint much more annoying than it should be, so I was wondering if anybody had come up with a practical solution to that problem (I've thought of putting a bit of tape around the end to make it bigger, but it seems like it will create other inconveniences as byproducts). Thank you all very much in advance, 3nding
  3. Usernameistaken

    Part Name

    I know this is a very basic question for you all, but can someone please tell me what this part for a rollerpoint is called? Thanks very much, James http://www.jamesburger.com/new/pen-tip.jpg
  4. I have found Jinhao pen that can have configuration of fountain pen with nib and rollerball pen. See attached picture where you will see Jinhao Dragon's Offspring or Jinhao 888. I am not sure whichever is more correct as there's also NJ39, 40 and 41... Left one I saw in one seller's eBay store and right one in different seller's store but I want to buy former (rollerball pen) from second seller who has only fountain pen. What I am trying to understand is do these pens have some kind of compatibility where fountain pen can be converted into rollerball pen? I mean I understand that both have different ink containers and nib cannot be interchanged with tip but I am sure I can take out ink container with nib from fountain pen and put rollerball refill inside. Correct? Consequently can rollerball pens and ballpoint pens be interchangeable i.e. I keep using same barrell, cap but now can turn pen into gel pen with gel refill or ballpoint refill? I also liked X250, X450 and X750 but will there be different variables provided I want to do similar conversions I mentioned above? Appreciate your help to enlighten me.
  5. Plusfoursmax

    Grinding A Broken Parker Falcon Nib

    So, I was in a meeting yesterday, and wanted to annotate my notes. I have my trusty Parker Falcon loaded with Skrip Red, and it was dry. I checked the reservoir, no probs, and upside down the nib worked. After the meeting I had a look through the loupe and saw that the tines were spread a bit, and the tip was dry. I gently pressed the tines down and together to bring them closer. Suddenly there was a ping and a rattle somewhere on my desk, and the pen is as you see it. It seems the welding on half the tip was fatigued and failed cleanly at the ball. Ah, well I could invest in a new tipping op, but retippers are a dying breed, and I don't think the pen is worth it. I decided to turn it into a usable stub Italic. Here goes. 1st action is to level the tines, I did this on 800 grit wet/dry. Skrip acts like a stained glass window! 2nd was cutting the foot of the nib; normal Italic pens have a nib that widens out to present a slightly broad foot to the paper; A calligraphic Italic nib is much sharper. As this is a hack up, I need to do this gently. Started using orange mylar (coarse abrasive) on a mirror, gently cutting the bottom of the nib level, it looks a lot like a reed pen being worked on, for the same reason! Then cut the foot, blurry and dirty, but you get the idea. Tines misaligned, bent them in line and then on to polish. Tried to write and sharp and scratchy Used the yellow fine mylar abrasive sheet, first on the mirror, and then on a rubber pad on the mirror. This gives a little, and allows for a slight curve to form (incidentally this is exactly how the ends of optical fibres once glued into the plugs are given a slight radius and polish to allow a single point contact with the mating fibre, using the same mylar) Finished result, and a small sample. The pen is smooth in all directions, but I am fooling no-one that this was anything other than a hack-job. If I feel the need in later life, and am flush (and there is still someone prepared to do it) the remainder of the nib could be retipped with perhaps a bigger ball. This is a scratchy and smooth comparison (scatchy under the smooth) lastly, this is a pic of the yellow mylar, on the pad on the mirror, with the mixed inks of polishes past; rather fetching, I think!

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