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Found 9 results

  1. WestLothian

    3D-Printing Replacement Parts

    Hopefully this will be of interest for those wanting to "repair" by replacement the unrepairable components of vintage pens. This Conway Stewart from around 1950 has cross-linked changes to the polymer causing severe distortions and embritlement (see photograph). The lever-fill mechanism was completely unusable depite all the parts still being inside the barrel. I have had a basic level 3D printer for a couple of moths now and I have been impressed with the fine details that can be generated when the slower speeds and layer heights are used rather than the standard settings. This encouraged me to measure the complicated elements and print test parts to see if the cap threads and the jewel threads would be sufficiently accurate to work. The cap has a 4-start thread that secures it to the barrel with a simple twist. This has a lead of 2.5 mm per turn and, with 4-starts, the effective pitch is 2.5/4 = 0.625 mm. I then used the standard thread forms for ISO metric or Unified to prepare small test parts 1/2" or 12 mm long. The first attempt was far too tight so I kept the same thread form but put the 4 helical cuts deeper into the cap to give a greater than standard clearance. It only took this second test part to get a free running thread that was still very secure when tight. The barrel needs to hold a "J" shaped spring for the filler and has a fine groove to retain a 2-coil helical spring that positions the gold-plated lever in its socket. I printed the barrel first and persuaded the original springs to seat correctly in the new part. This let me fit an ink-sac and get writing. The cap required the female thread to be printed in the same way and had a simple single thread for the cap jewel. It seemed to be close to the dimensions for M4 x0.7p but again required the hole to have a more generous clearance than the metal standard. This cap jewel tightened well using some silicone gloves for grip and holds the gold-plated clip securely. The surface finish shows a texture which is a bit like a silky fabric. I decided to leave this texture rather than trying to sand smooth and polish to a finish. I will need to experiment with the best method to add a decorative gold-plated capring and possibly a printed securing band rather than a groove. The project was worthwhile, if only for the learning and process familiarisation.
  2. Why second? Because the first one is Wiland MUKI (2009) At least World First Scerw Cap Full ceramic pen all right?(lmao) Equip with JOWO 6 and my self-made 3d cobalt nib. Material - Ivoclar Glass Ceramic,Zirconium Phosphate Ceramics,Macor(All machinable ceramic can be regarded as glass ceramic) Note! Zerodur and other transparent glass are also glass ceramic but can only be machining in grinding process. Nib - JOWO 6 or 3D Cobalt Nib Clip - GR5 Ti with Black PVD Style - Ink comverter With JOWO 6 nib With cobalt nib Next pen is quartz + titanium + urushi + glass + fluororubber and perfluoroether rubber. Hope it works well.
  3. Unluckily, the world 1st 3d printed nib was made by Pjotr Dumat. So, I should be the second one(lmao). Material is Co-Mo-Ti Alloy. In DLMS 3D printer EOSINT M 280 At first, it looked very Rough. So I decided to polish them. After 20 hours Polishment in 14 days: Next time if I have free time I will welding them with Iridium point.
  4. In addition to my newfound love of fountain pens, I also love to 3D print things. I recently found this beautiful pen holder on Thingiverse and I knew I had to print it, and then I knew I had to share. I hope you guys enjoy.
  5. After 3 times failure I made it at last. By using EOSINT M280 printer, a titanium clip was printed. To make it looks in matte finish. I polished it for one day and it looks great now. Clip Clip after install it to Kaweco Ti My next step is to creat a pen by using 3d printing and CNC machine. And I draw some stl file here. Cap Body Grip The Whole Pen I have tried many times to print prototype in resin like nylon12 or acrylic, but its accuracy is not enough. So next time I decide to print or use cnc machine in Aluminum, Sterling Silver or Alumina Ceramic. And I also want to design some pattern to make it looks more attractive. But due to the outbreak of disease. I can only stay at home now. :-P
  6. Actually it is the first posts of this account.(Although I collected pen for long time, I never resgister on FPN before) I use an advanced 3d scanner and then draw its stl file for 3d printing. Actually it match Kaweco Sport Pen. Then I asked for a modern industrial 3d printed machine to build it. The material is CoCrMo Stellite alloy. However, I didn't have good tools to polish so it looks very rough. You can download STL file here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=171o32j0lQCWl4yjNgbrzcuxQHqS-f75K Suggestion: Use metal printing at first. I try PA66, PA12 before but the strength is not enough. Polishing is the most important process, without good polishment it may hurt Kaweco Pen Body
  7. 'Meteor' 3D metal printed fountain pen (and nib) http://pjotrpens.com/sites/pjotrpens.com/files/PjotrMeteor0_x690.jpg I have been away for a while (however, active on the not-so-official FPN page on Fb. Sorry for that! ). Recently I brought my latest design, the 'Meteor' to the market (limited edition). All its metal parts are 3D printed: Barrel, cap: stainless steel (316L)Nib, shaft, clip: titanium alloy (Ti6Al4V)There are some variants: Pure Pure+ (shaft polished) Merlot Red (also cap and barrel polished/colored) Royal Blue (also cap and barrel polished/colored) Soon: Britisch Racing Green (also cap and barrel polished/colored)The pen comes with a box that is also its display stand and is - of course - also 3D printed (PA12 with HP's Multi-Jet Fusion technology). http://pjotrpens.com/sites/pjotrpens.com/files/PjotrMeteor4_x690.jpg Also personalization is available, like the inclusion of a monogram or logo in 3D. http://pjotrpens.com/sites/pjotrpens.com/files/DeValk.jpg Below a preview of the 'Meteor' in British Racing Green http://pjotrpens.com/sites/pjotrpens.com/files/BRG.jpg More at pjotrpens.com and the website of la Couronne du Comte : lacouronneducomte.nl http://pjotrpens.com/sites/pjotrpens.com/files/PjotrMeteorB_x690.jpg
  8. Hey fellow FPNers, I recently got into 3D printing and have started designing my own things to be printed and one of them has been a pen holder. I thought I would share it with you guys as you would appreciate this. Notice I've populated the holder with a pen each of the "big 3" of Japanese fountain pen companies, can you name all the pens? (bonus points if you can name the 4th fountain pen in the picture, though it is hard to tell because of the photo quality) It's not exactly a traditional katana holder design, as they usually don't have as many bridging ribs or an ornamental top but I thought I would take some artistic/engineering licence with it. It is designed to be modular, so that I can add or take away or add as many spots for holding pens as needed as they just slot into each other. I currently only have green plastic at home to use but I was thinking or reprinting it at my uni's printers in brown or black and colouring into the text in with a metallic gold marker. What colour do you think would look best? The characters on top are not actually Japanese (though it would be interesting for someone to tell me what it could be translated from if it were read as kanji) but my Chinese name, I thought it would give it a bit more of an eastern/oriental look to it.
  9. Hi All, I would like to share some of the things that I have created with my 3d printer specifically for my fountain pens. Here is a picture of some of the iterations of the things that I made. I will talk about them in more detail below. 1) The interlocking parts at the top are cross sections of a pen tray system that I designed. The idea is that you can print as many of them as you like and they will just sit one next to the other. The clip at the top of the ark is used to hold down a suede like fabric that is gentle on the pens. I did a few iterations until I arrived at something I liked... but decided that the trays were taking too long to print so gave it up. 2) The feeds at the bottom are my attempt at a zebra-g nib feed that pools the ink so that it does not get dry as I flex the nib. I did a few iterations of that too... the first 2 tries did not work so well, but I am really looking forward to testing the third one at some point. A pen with this kind of nib is not going to leave home (in my mind) so having a lot of pooling ink like this is not a huge deal. 3) The wrench-ish thing in the middle is a piston wrench for the 149... the piston on mine was very rough... so I did some handleless prints of the jaws and when it all fit... I print one with the handle... I used it to disassemble the pen and it is now greased and working so well 4) I wanted my KoP to hold more ink so I decided to create an eye dropper vessel (aka a cartridge) that would hold the maximum capacity that would fit in the barrel, so I measured the converter out and modelled it. After a couple of iterations and test fits, it turns out that the result was not water/ink proof. The solution was: cover it in super glue... wait for the glue to dry then sand off the excess... it works quite well and holds approximately 1.2ml of ink. And finally 5) This is the hex wrench for omas caps that use a hex screw to hold the inside of the cap and the clip to the cap... I have already posted the details of that one here https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/321667-omas-milord-loose-clip/ Hope this helps/amuses someone

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