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Found 23 results

  1. What's the best kind of fabric or ink rags? I see all these beautiful ink rags that work well, that absorbs and cleans, (and keeps the colours.) The few I've tried have been crappy. They don't absorb, they only smear ink. I've resorted to paper towels, but I want a dedicated ink rag. Any suggestions?
  2. I have a handlful of Vintage and new Pens. Parker Vacumatic, Parker Duofolds, Skyline Everysharps, Pelikan 400nn. Pelikan M200's, M400, Sailor 1911, Various TWSBI's. Inks: Only "wetter" inks. Aurora, Diamine, Waterman, Iroshizuku. Mostly blues. I have read that pens should be flushed or cleaned regularly to extend the life of the feed and nib and prevent ink drying out and build up. I have been using the above pens regularly, every 1-2 weeks or much more, for some time. Should I be emptying the ink and cleaning out the pens every so often? How often? Or, is it not necessary as long as the pens are inked and used regularly? Thanks for your help. jim
  3. I have just received a beautiful restored Parker Vacumatic in the mail from Ebay. Got it for $83. It has a nasty strong perfume odor on the body and cap. I tried cleaning it with windex, light laundry soap and soft sponge, and alcohol wipes. Also tried "Pet Odor Remover" which normally takes any organic smell away. And, it still reeks so bad that my hand smells from holding it. Questions: 1. Can the smell be removed? . . . How? 2. Is the smell absorbed into the plastic? 3. Should I just try to return it? Thanks for your help. jim
  4. Has anyone ever figured out how to safely remove the feed from the section of the Preppy/Plaisir so it can be cleaned and dried faster? In some SBRE Brown video he mentioned that he had been utterly unable to remove the fin-feed from the clear section of either his Preppys or Plaisirs, said that as cheap pen you have to deal with it, but complained that it took 'forever' for it to dry inside its clear tube section after rinsing it out. Well, I just got my first Plaisir (light and plastic-y yes, but the .05 writes very nicely - more smoothly than my .03 Preppy) and I see exactly what he was talking about. A comparison between a normal fountain pen feed to the Preppy/Plaisir (from this old post): http://www.pbase.com/liverman/image/141447107/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/liverman/image/141447688/original.jpg I really don't want to have to wait 'forever' for my pen to be ready to be re-inked. Has anyone gotten the feed out of the section easily?
  5. A question for dip pen users—If you were to write all day, like Shelby Foote or Virginia Woolfe, doesn't your nib get caked with ink? How did they (you) keep it clean during the day or doesn't it matter? Just wondering.
  6. Hello, I own a older Namiki Vanishing Point that I have had for many years and use it rarely because it seems to hold almost no ink and starts streaking after a few lines. I like its portability, but is too frustrating to use. Is there something I can do to remedy this problem? Can I change from the squeeze converter to a screw converter? Is there some way to get it to draw in more ink? Photos below. Thank you, Lloyd
  7. Hi All I currently use an undetermined diamine blue colour (kind of blue black), and as I move the ink around in my VAC700 demonstrator, droplets and smudges are left behind. I know the interaction between barrel material and ink chemistry is complex, so I’ll address my question only to TWSBI owners. Does any TWSBI demonstrator-owner happen to have a blue black or similar colour ink that does not leave such droplets behind? (Does that even exist?) Please share your pictures! Thanks! Bart
  8. Driphtwood

    Esterbrook Ebonite Section Soaking

    First of all, I've tried searching for more information on this topic, and didn't find what I was looking for. Forgive me if this subject has already been flushed out. I recently purchased an Esterbrook J on a whim, and set to work on restoring my first pen to working order. I was able to pull the section off and remove the disintegrating sac, but found my first roadblock in removing the nib unit from the section. Long story short, I soaked the pen in a solution of ammonia, water, and dish soap and was able to clean out all the old ink and successfully unscrew the nib unit. Now however, I think I may have damaged the pen! Apparently you're not supposed to soak ebonite in water right, and I could be wrong but the whole section is ebonite. I can't imagine soaking in ammonia did anything to help either. The section is now a different color than the barrel, slightly greenish very dark grey instead of black, and is more matte than glossy, again unlike the barrel. My questions are as follows. If you're not supposed to soak ebonite, how would i have cleaned out the ink from the section? I'm considering attempting to restore the old finish by buffing away the damaged surface of the section. Should I go ahead and give this a try? I've attached a photo of the pen. As a final note, it's possible that it already looked like this. I honestly can't tell. This is a photo from the original ebay listing. It looks like it might already have been even less slightly discolored?
  9. Having recently acquired a good number of 484 and 444 ink wells and dip-less pens, I've spent the better part of the last three days soaking and cleaning everything. I think I have a ways to go on these parts, still. The ebonite rods in the ink well feed are the most fascinating to me. Given how many there are and how light they are, I'm afraid to wash them in any meaningful way; washing the feed cup will cause the rods to float up and out and into my sink, and washing them in their own bowl makes me shudder to think what recollecting them would be like. I've resorted soaking them with the metal washer holding them on, rinsing them thoroughly, then removing the washer and letting the rods dry on some paper towels. I shouldn't be surprised at how much ink is still in these old wells and materials, but I am. Still, the process has been quite fun. A
  10. junopens

    How To Clean Pelikan

    I have a brand new Kuala Lumpur Pelikan. It needs cleaning. Can anybody suggest a good way to do it? Thanks!
  11. I am new to fountain pens and I was just wondering if when I have to clean my pen (which I read was about once per month) can I keep the ink that I get out of it before starting the cleaning process so that I can use it later, or should I just throw that ink away. I might not be able to use all of my ink in a month, so I just wanted to know if I can save up the ink for later use, is it usable ? (I am asking this because I read about how fibers from the paper, dust particles and dried ink must be cleaned, so in my mind there is a chance that that stuff could also be found in the ink, and I don't want to use an ink that has such particles, potentially getting my pen stuck or something) Thanks in advance and sorry for my noobyness
  12. I have the wonderful piston filler Fellowship Neo but i can't get the nib and feed out to clean. i tried contacting the seller , and the only thing he could come up with was to soak it...hahaha. I am sure some here have the pen. How are you cleaning it ?
  13. I'm a fountain pen novice and looking for a recommendation for my next pen. I currently have a Lamy 2000 and a Lamy Studio (steel nib) both w/ fine nibs and a few cheap pens: Kaweco, Safari, etc. I'm looking to get my next pen and am leaning towards another Lamy 2000 with a medium nib. I tried it at a store a few weeks ago and found the nib to be considerably smoother than the fine one I currently have. I use my Lamy 2000 for pretty much all of my writing, so it would be great to have another ink color option available most of the time too. I really like the 2000, primarily for the following reasons: 1) the design is clean, simple (no crazy engraving on the nib!), and almost all black 2) it holds a lot of ink 3) its nib is the smoothest of the pens I own--much better than the Lamy steel nibs 4) it's easy to hold and write with for long stretches 5) the cap is not unstable when it's on the pen or when it's posted. (I find that the cap on my studio can always be wiggled a little bit, which I don't like. The cap on my Studio also requires occasional tightening with a screwdriver, which I really don't like. It's come loose a couple times while I was traveling and I had to improvise tools to fix it.) 6) It's tough. I've dropped the pen accidentally several times on concrete, without any real issues except some fine scratches on the body. I want a pen I can use everywhere and will most likely drop at some point. 7) I think it's a good value at ~$125 USD. My primary issue with most fountain pens is that I find about 99% of them incredibly ugly. Like, I go into a store or a pen show and I just gravitate back towards the Lamy pens--primarily the 2000 and the Studio--because of their clean looks. So, I'm wondering if someone could recommend a pen that I might like or any advice about whether to buy another 2000 or to try something else. I was thinking about the Diplomat Excellence A Plus in black lacquer with chrome accents and 14k nib, but I think its look is still a little too ostentatious for me, and it's probably a bit more than I want to spend. I carry my pens everywhere in my shirt and jeans pockets, and I'm bound to lose one at some point. I was also thinking about a Lamy Dialog 3, which I know I could get for $200 if I'm patient, but, after having tried it, I think it's a little too big for my taste. I also considered a Studio Palladium, but the aforementioned cap issue compels me back towards the 2000. Maybe a Pelikan M205? Will it be as smooth as the Lamy 2000? And what nib size should I go for? Your thoughts are much appreciated!
  14. Hello, Does anyone know how to replace the nib of a Montegrappa Symphony? I have looked at it and I can't seem to take the feeder and the nib out. They don't seem to be screwed in, like the Miya is for example... Any thoughts on this?
  15. thegreenknight

    Staining – F&c Model 40 Pocket

    Hi FPN, TLDR: My F&C Model 40 Pocket (being used as an eye-dropped) is stained. The stains are on the threads connecting the barrel and the section, and there is also a portion of ink stuck within the feed. I have tried soaking the section/feed unit several times, and the returns have been increasingly diminishing. Please help! I am a novice fountain pen user. My introduction to fountain pens came when I discovered an old Sheaffer in my mother's closet that had formerly belonged to my grandfather. I spent weeks cleaning and restoring it, by which I mean I soaked the pen in water and blew threw the feed every night for about three weeks until it finally started functioning again. After this process, I decided I had invested enough time into fountain pens that I should buy another one. I selected the Franklin & Christoph Model 40 Pocket because it is beautiful and entirely different from the Sheaffer I already had. I immediately converted the pen into an eye-dropper and have had a lovely experience with it ever since – that is until the first time it ran out of ink. I don't use my fountain pen often enough. It probably took me about 2 months to go through the first batch of ink I loaded into it (sailor jentile blue). By the time I was done, the ink had thoroughly penetrated the feed portion of the section (which I believe is inaccessible using a q-tip) and left noticeable staining on the threads. The technique I used on my grandfathers old pen – soaking it and passing air through the feed – has been ineffective. I have been at this technique for a couple weeks now and am ready to try a new one. Is there a solution I could use in place of water? How might I remove these unwanted leftovers? Thanks for your help in advance, TGK
  16. I am looking to get a Meisterstück 30 safetyfiller, but how do you fill them and how do you clean them when changing ink color?
  17. Dip Pen Users, If you write for a long time at one sitting, do you periodically clean the nib of your pen? Do you ever let your pen sit while you pause and then have to clean it before dipping again? I am just curious about your handling procedures.
  18. Assuming I am going to spill ink on my clothes, are there any inks or brands that have a better reputation for to washing out? I am wanting to be more careless in transporting and carrying a pen which I figure makes it a question of when rather than if I will get ink on my clothes. As such, buying based on the ability to remove it may be a good idea. I am thinking I should do an empirical test with the few inks I have, but they are mostly Noodler's.
  19. overlander

    Baystate Blue Stains

    My ink samples for my first pen arrived yesterday, and I am still waiting for my first pen to arrive in the mail, a Lamy Vista. When I looked at the ink samples, I noticed immediately that the sample vial of bsb was totally stained with blue, and none of the other samples had any staining at all. With all my research online, I knew that bsb has a reputation, but the color is just so breathtaking! I am now having second thoughts about putting this ink into my pen. If (when) staining occurs in my Vista, will an ammonia solution be able to get it out? I have heard of some issues with using bleach with steel nibs and some rubbers, so I am a bit off put about using bleach. Also, I don't know how many of you are aquarium people, but I have a bottle of Dr. Tim's brand ammonium chloride solution for "fishless cycling" of a tank; would this work to clean a pen, or should I avoid it? Sorry for my ramblings here, but hopefully some of you can help me. Thanks!
  20. Just to say I cleaned my Summit and Conway Stewart Vintage pens with Autoglym Rubber bumper (fender to you Yanks ) cleaner/restorer. They came up a treat (though slightly slippery to begin with, they're harder to grip with no muck and a polished surface) Nice shine, though not too shinny and they are a slightly deeper black colour now as well. Seems like a good choice. Oh and it smells better than rubber as well. What cleaner/restorers have others had success with?
  21. bernardoarcos

    Cleaning We Oscar Wilde Fp

    Hi friends! I need to clean a WE Oscar Wilde FP with a soft ammonia dilution (arround 5% of ammonia), and my doubt is what kind of material is the barrel made. Is a marbled resin or is made of celluloid?? I´ll be expecting your comments and suggestions, obviously I don´t want to damage my WE. Thanks! Cheers from Chile
  22. Shahab Mirza

    How Is My Handwriting?

    How is my handwriting, in this post you all good people will tell me that is my handwriting good or not and help me choose my final handwriting and by time to time you guys will give me tips on improving my handwriting. Thanks. See the file attached below in which there is one of my handwriting style.
  23. orangejuiceguy

    Cleaning Stuff

    ahhh! by the time i get some replies its bound to be dry, but i managed to stab a hole through the bottom of a ink vial, spraying red ink eeverywhere. i managed to get ink elsewhere too, so i was wondering if theres any way to get dried red ink off of a: plastic lightswitch, my nice white wall(seems to have stained) and clothes(is there a way if its dry?) anyhelp would be appreciated! i hope its not toxic cuz the needlewent into my finger too. thats fine though





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