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Found 7 results

  1. I have a decent collection of the striped WEAREVER PACEMAKER pens, pictured below. I have 10 of the FPs and one mechanical pencil (2nd from left). I've collected this pen so far in four different colors. PenHero has covered Wearever pens quite extensively in other topics in the Other North American pens section, and has provided us with wonderful, professionally made photos, so I won't go over well-covered territory here. I've just provided various photos of my collection for what they are worth to you. My ultimate purpose here is to discuss a common repair issue with these pens -- the cracking of the section -- and to solicit recommendations about repair. These pens otherwise are relatively easy to fix when, for example, the button filler stops working. One can carefully remove the section, easily replace the rubber sac (if needed; so far not needed), reposition the lever and button mechanism, and get everything to work well. Because I'm a bit obsessive about cleaning my fountain pens, I also will remove the nib and feed (friction fit) to clean them, and then will reinsert them back into the section. If the section doesn't already have a crack, the reinsertion of the nib-feed has a tendency either to reveal a crack that already was there or to create a crack. That result may be contributed to by shrinkage of the section plastic over time. Although each section has a seam, the cracks I have seen or created thus far have not been in the seam. I now regret removing the nib-feed unnecessarily, as I perhaps could have avoided cracking the section of at least some of the cracked samples. The next-to-last photo, with better lighting, would better show the crack in one of the pens. You may be able to see slightly the reflection of the section crack on the bottom of the nib where it meets the section, but it's subtle in that photo. About half of these pens in my collection have a similar crack. What I have done with some success is to use a Q-Tip with super-glue to apply, in layers, the glue to the inside and outside of the section, and let it dry with each layer. As that very slightly reduces the space inside the section for the nib-feed, reinsertion of the nib-feed may stress the crack and require another layer or two of super-glue on the exterior of the section to hold in the ink. One may see a little bit of ink underneath the glue, which otherwise holds in the leakage to spare one's fingers an ink stain. When not leaking through a section crack, these Wearever Pacemakers are good writers for the price. The 14K medium nib is on the thinner side, but it writes smoothly with a bit of give to it, and the overall writing experience is nice for such a relatively inexpensive (then as new and now as vintage) fountain pen -- at least for my tastes. Any recommendations as how better to repair the section crack, assuming I've learned my lesson and will not remove the nib and feed just to clean them better? The photo just below may allow you to see the slight crack in the section; the crack is reflected onto the bottom of the nib very near the middle.
  2. thx1138

    Parker 180 18K Gold Nibs

    Parker 180's were issued with 14k nibs until near th h ed end of th hr model life when they began to come out with stainless nibs (I'm guessing that the gold price has spiked). Has anyone any knowledge of 180's being issued with 18k nibs? I have just bought a 180 which is stamped 750. I have only seen one other 18k nib before. Does anyone have any information on the 18k nibs? Thanks for your time.
  3. Hi friends, I am hoping for some help identifying this Sailor pen that I got as a graduation gift last year. It seems to be made from resin and has the 1911 14k nib. I'm not familiar with Sailor pens at all. This was bought in Japan (if it makes a difference). I currently don't have a converter in this pen, and I'm wondering which Sailor converter to use with this pen as it's quite short in length. Thanks in advance!
  4. I found a miniature Simplo fountain pen tucked in a bag with a tobacco pipe I bought. It looks art deco and only measures 2.5" long. The cap twists off and you turn the bottom of the pen to twist out the pen tip. The only markings are on the nib which says Simplo 14k. There is some ink stains in places where the finish wore off. Can anyone tell me more about the pen - model, time period, estimated value? I haven't been able to find another one like it searching online. Thanks for any info you can provide.
  5. I went to an antique store this past weekend and found this pen on sale. I was intrigued by its size (it's almost exactly as long as a Kaweco Al-sport when capped), the 14K gold nib, and a body in near-perfect condition. The pen was being sold for $15 because the tines were sprung; one of the tines was overlapping the other. I managed to bring the price down to $12, and left the store with a project. After a few minutes of adjustments, I was able to unspring the tines and write with the pen. The flex is strong with this one! Being my first full flex pen, I was impressed by the line variation I could squeeze out. The ink keeps up for the most part. After getting the pen to write, I wanted to know what kind of pen it was. It looks like an early 1900s pen with full-flex. The nib says "Warranted 14KT.", and it looks like a real gold flex nib. The feed also looks real, because its a very simple ebonite feed with a few channels carved into it; no fins, nothing fancy. What threw me off was the distinct lack of filling mechanism (i filled it by removing the nib and feed and dropping the ink into the barrel), any written logo or name on the barrel or cap, any clip, or any other metal components. The plastic body also feels modern. I'm not sure if I would be able to tell the difference between a modern counterfeit and an antique pen, though. Does anyone have any information about this pen?
  6. Toward the end of the year, I picked up a bunch of vintage pens, and have been restoring them. I'm interested in what anyone can tell me about these two Watermans. I've put new sacs in both, but so far have only inked the blue one. The lever mechanism is a type I've only seen in one other pen, instead of an internal spring bar, there is a pressure bar hanging on a pivot from the lever. The pressure bar on the blue one has enough corrosion on it that I thought of trying to get it off the lever and out of the pen, but I can't quite figure it out, and I don't want to break it. http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/mapn/Pens/Waterman7_zps2aecee6e.jpg The imprinted writing on the barrels says "Watermans's Reg U.S. Patent Office Made in the United States of America", with a circular "Ideal" logo in the center of this text. The clips just say "Waterman's". Both nibs say "Waterman's Ideal 14 KT", but the one on the green pen also says "fine rigid". I cannot find any other writing on them. http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/mapn/Pens/Waterman9_zps02001394.jpg I assume that the material of these is some sort of celluloid; the blue one reminds me of the blue on some Esterbrook Js. The blue one writes nicely enough, nothing to blow me away, but the nib does have some noticeable flex, although hardly a wet noodle. I like the small size, which is just big enough to be comfortable to write with posted. I'll get to the green one eventually, but I don't want to ink up too many pens right now. These are apparently not the highest end pens Waterman ever made, but I'm curious where they fit in. They seem like efficient little vest pocket or purse pens, and the plastics are attractive. For my own information, I'd like to know about when they were made, and anything else anyone can tell me about the models.
  7. Cardiac K

    Pelikan M650 Nib Question

    Hi there, I've been following the great discussions on here for a while but never posted before. A v.brief intro....I'm an amateur / relatively new collector of pens with a small collection of Mont Blanc, Waterman and vintage Parkers. I recently purchased my first Pelikan last week and that is the impetus for this post! It was bought from ebay from what appears to be a reputable and credible seller with no red flags. Solds as a mint/unused M650 - black barrel, silver/Vermeil cap. The pen arrived and condition was as described and all looked in order BUT it has a 14K monotone nib. My understanding was that all M650s were fitted with 2-tone 18K nibs? This has clearly got me concerned that this is a 'frankenstein' - either the nib has been changed, or possibly the barrel is that of an M600 (or even M400....would that fit the cap?). The alternative is of course that it is a fake, but I don't believe that to be the case. I'm still in the window of opportunity for returning the pen, but love the model and still hopeful there's a reassuring explanation! I'd be hugely grateful for any help, info. or advice. Very best, Kaivan ps. Can post a picture later if that's helpful....





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