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Found 13 results

  1. DJNW

    Dinkie Repair

    I've been called in to give my sister a hand with a Dinkie that's had a structural failure: https://imgur.com/PmMvCVm https://imgur.com/P2GqymJ https://imgur.com/U6RHUu3 We reckon that the pen was put together while the shellac was still slightly wet, it slurped out of the joint and glooped towards the section. From the look of things, there's been some general reacting going on and there's some residue in that separate ring that's going to have to be dealt with. Any suggestions for cleanup and repair?
  2. law_kid

    Shellac - Type And Cut?

    I'm ready to take the plunge and restore a couple of (inexpensive) old Esties. The instructions/videos I've seen suggest using ":shellac" to adhere the new sac to the nipple, and I know some of the supply places sell small bottles of it. However, as a woodworker, I have multiple types of shellac flakes sitting around.and I'd rather not pay relatively big $$$ for a small bottle of something I ordinarily make by the quart. Can anybody tell me the type of shellac used (waxed vs. dewaxed, does orange vs blonde matter, etc) and also the strength or "cut" of the shellac i should use (e.g. a one
  3. I recently took apart my Parker 51 vacumatic to clean it and replace the diaphragm (still looking for the right tool the remove the pump). When I eventually get it all back together, I'd like to avoid using shellac. While I don't anticipate opening the pen for a very long time, I'd still rather avoid having to melt the shellac all over again. Is there and alternative that I could apply to the pen that wouldn't harden over time? I'm thinking silicon grease might be the answer, but I'm not sure.
  4. Got this article for making India Ink safe for fountain pen. Is this workable ? Quote: "We know that India Ink can get stale. It still looks black and liquid, but it clogs our pens. We blame our pens, change the nibs, but the problem remains. I guessed that the shellac was forming particles, too small to see, but still enough to clog a pen. A little bit of methyl hydrate added to the ink revitalized it, and it would flow. In fact, I found that I could even put India Ink in a regular fountain pen if I thinned the ink with methyl hydrate." Link: http://www.hyoomik.com/images/technique1.html
  5. Is Wood Polish (from the brand Sheenlac) same as Shellac? If not, can anyone make suggestions on what is the Shellac to be used for sacs that is available from the local market.
  6. ad4vs

    Curing Time

    how long does it take a section to set up once it has been inserted in the barrel?
  7. Oslowe

    Heater Hack

    Discovered a small screw on the plastic shroud, and one thing led to another. Was reading the excelent thread pinned in Esterbrook on resacing and remembered this rig I built. The key was cuting 4 slots in the 1½" piece of copper pipe and mushrooming it over the tapered end of the beast. I stopped at 2 screws to secure it. A 'T' and some caps, and a few short lengths of pipe were lightly sweated together. The remaining open part of the tee forms a nice friction fit that allows ajustment to any angle. Hardest part is calculating the size the slit needs to be. The formula is simple enough, b
  8. Hi, I recently received a Conway Stewart Dinkie 550 which I purchased online; it was described as needing a new sac. I don't know much about casein, but read this on the CS website: Firstly, if I can't apply heat to the pen, how am I going to unstick the barrel from the section, which appear to be shellacked (spelling?) together? I'll have to do this in order to fit the new sac. Secondly, how does one clean the section of a casein pen without dismantling the nib and feed? I had intended to flush it out with a bulb syringe - if it will fit, the pen is so tiny - but wonder if this will af
  9. Is there a true difference?
  10. I recently obtained a couple of vintage Parker 51s, both working excellently. I am concerned however, that I may be looking at breather tube replacement on one of them. I am confident that I can do these repairs if necessary.' I am, however, out of NEW shellac. I've read a lot of posts from various sources about a replacement for shellac as a sealant on Parker hoods, barrels, pumps and sacs, etc. Like most things, the responses cover all sorts of opinions. I will use shellac on my Parkers for now. Now, to the question. I have an old can (old = more than a year old) of orange shella
  11. rff000

    Story Of A Sheaffer Cadet.

    In case this might be of interest, here's the story of a Sheaffer Tip-Dip Cadet I now have. Six months or so ago, I bid on an Ebay pen that supposedly was a Sheaffer Snorkel in excellent condition. I thought I was paying a very good price (around $20, as I recall it) and won the auction a little easier than I thought I would. After receiving the item, I realized two things: first, that it had been misidentified and actually was a Tip-Dip Cadet and, second, that the sac was brittle and disintegrated to hard pieces when I touched it. I already had two Cadets in excellent condition that were
  12. Hi, I wanted to get some advice about adhering a section into the barrel and the type of nib. I recently won a Retro 51 Double-8 L.E. NOS fountain pen off eBay. The pen is made from cellulose acetate and I was wondering if I could use shellac to glue the section to the barrel? I don't want the shellac to discolor or be seen from the outside. I don't know if I use shellac if I could heat it up later and remove it without damaging the parts. Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for adhesives? Secondly, the nib. Is this an early Delta Fusion nib o

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