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Found 4 results

  1. I recently purchased my first vintage Waterman's fountain pen... a Taperite Crusader. I bought it for next to nothing but have a significant amount of time invested in it just getting the section out of the pen. We're talking about long soaks in water with a little Dawn detergent, ultrasonic baths, and of course heat. This was done over several days with me giving up numerous times rather than to risk breaking the pen. What finally produced the slightest movement of the section was my decision to wiggle the heated joint side to side, rather than just up and down. I got a sudden little "cra
  2. Aloha - I have an Old Chap button filler thats gotta have a new sac. I've installed a number of sacs in lever fillers. This section is stubborn. When twisted, I get a tiny bit of daylight between section and threads. It revolves rather freely for a few milimeters and opens just a hair, then locks tight. Pulling straight out gets me nothing. Am I pulling against threads? I really don't want to damage the extra nice pen with a wonderful flexy 18k nib. Does anyone know if the Old Chap sections are threaded or friction? I'm soaking overnight in Windex/water 50/50 solution at the moment, but I don'
  3. I recently purchased a World War II era "Secretary" fountain pen manufactured by the Newark Pen Company. I want to get it writing again but have run into a unique (for me at least) problem. I placed the nib/section portion of the barrel in a 10% ammonia solution in my ultrasonic cleaner. After several minutes, I removed the pen and tried turning and, hopefully, extracting the section. The section turned somewhat easily but I found it impossible to remove. It is not threaded and only moves outward about 1/100" or so, even with significant pull, rocking, and twisting. In turning the sectio
  4. Oslowe

    Heater Hack

    Discovered a small screw on the plastic shroud, and one thing led to another. Was reading the excelent thread pinned in Esterbrook on resacing and remembered this rig I built. The key was cuting 4 slots in the 1½" piece of copper pipe and mushrooming it over the tapered end of the beast. I stopped at 2 screws to secure it. A 'T' and some caps, and a few short lengths of pipe were lightly sweated together. The remaining open part of the tee forms a nice friction fit that allows ajustment to any angle. Hardest part is calculating the size the slit needs to be. The formula is simple enough, b





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