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After getting all the inks I wanted, and finding all the pens that make them look great, I thought I would finally find some peace... I even managed to get two Carènes, which to me are the most gorgeous pens. But nooo, I had to stumble upon a Concorde, and couldn't resist putting in an offer. From what I'd previously read, this pen has a terrible reputation for being unreliable, with some people going so far as to write that all are doomed to failure. So why do it? Well I went for it, and against my own expectations... It works. Or rather, it's beginning to work with some gentle cleaning and patience. Luckily the seller included a (push bar) converter, which is different from modern ones, perhaps compatible with CF pens. Will it last? Who knows, but my light hand and zero use for flex might help. Of course the appeal is that it's a stunning design, the nib is probably steel since I don't see any markings, which suits the style perfectly. There is a further oddity, this hole in the section under the nib, after I noticed it my heart sank as I thought there would be no way this pen would write, and yet it does. Insert supersonic ink joke here.

help me to identify the model of Pen

The ASA Bheeshma is named after a mythic Indian commander, an archer who ultimately died on a bed of arrows. Suspended in mid-air, his head unsupported, Bheeshma asked for a pillow appropriate to a warrior. That turned out to be three more arrows, tips up. The architect Vaibhav Mehandiratta named the pen after this epic character, after collaborating with passionate friends in India to design it. They included Prithwijit Chaki, a financial consultant; L. Subramaniam, founder of ASA Pens; and other pen warriors. These two themes, arrows and friendships, define the pen for me. After completing the design, Chaki commissioned a Bheeshma from ASA in 2015, and orders from other clients followed. About a year later, on a pen-component shopping safari in New Delhi, Chaki found a 14-karat gold Sheaffer inlaid nib and offered to help me work with Subramaniam to incorporate the nib into the overall design -- a kind of large version of a Nakaya Piccolo. Sheaffer's elegant nib resembles nothing so much as an arrowhead, and it's paired with a gray, quartz-like acrylic material that forms the graphite shaft of the arrow -- its barrel and cap. The acrylic was sourced from a stash of former Conway-Stewart material at the Turners Workshop in Newcastle upon Tyne, then shipped to the ASA shop in Chennai. But enough back story. Details The nib writes well and with considerable feedback, probably because it's an extra fine. I've forgotten what filling system was used in the nib's former life, but it now exists as a bulb filler, with the sac protected by a metal sleeve. The pen is 151 millimeters long, capped, and 135 mm uncapped. The cap and barrel are 15 mm in diameter, and the section is 10 mm, meaning that there's a considerable step-down. The inlaid section is 25 mm long, however, providing plenty of space for fingers to seat themselves before they reach the threads -- which are smooth enough to grip, anyway. I don't know how much the pen weighs, but it's mostly acrylic, so it's light. The pen is clipless, and a bronze snake ring serves as a roll-stopper. In Conclusion The Bheeshma is a sharp tool that fits my hand comfortably, writes cursive script with precision, and holds a respected position in my quiver of pens. Any army attempting to oppose Bheeshma should beware. A powerful cadre of friends supports him, and they are building a daunting armory of writing instruments.

My Shearer Legacy has what Richard Binder calls Inverted Grand Canyon Slit. Tho top of the tines has moved invard so the slit is wider where the nib touches the paper. Does anyone know how to correct this on the inlaid nib like this?

I want to start my vintage pen collection and I've been eyeing several Sheaffer Imperial 727 pens that are within my budget. However, I would like your advice on what will be best to get, what should I look for and if these particular pen is worth going after. I've got 3 different offerings: First one is for a gold plated pen with matching 14k nib and it's "suction" converter for about $25 in working order, with no apparent dents but seems to have been in use frequently; The second is for the full set of ballpoint, mechanical pencil and fountain pen (gold plated) in the original box for about $40, this pen looks nicer and less used. The last offering I've got is for a pen that looks similar to the 727 but it's an stainless steel version and the asking price is again $40, this last offering is from a collector unloading some of his pens, so I assume it will be well taken care of. I've never been a fan of bling pens -particularly dislike gold things, but I really want to try those inlaid nibs and suction converters and the cheaper one is exerting a powerful force of attraction on me! The set is appealing in the sense that it comes with original box but I really got no use for the ballpoint or mechanical pencil. One thing that worries me about buying a vintage pen is that am a leftie and I can easily assume these pens will come from right-handers. Will these be an issue mid-or-long term for the nib? Do I risk damaging it? Are these Imperials good writers? Are these recommended for daily use?

I'm looking for a well-behaved, lightfast purple for my PFM II. I'm the sort of person who'll ink a pen, and take as much as a couple of weeks to write it dry before cleaning it. I've been known to leave my M200 inked with red-black without cleaning for months, just so I can always have the combination ready. If I find a "forever" color for the PFM-II, it could easily get treated the same way. I had been considering Diamine Bilberry, but there have been rumors which now make me hesitant to use it. I am also considering Diamine Grape. The PFM was the last of the Snorkels, and the first of the inlaid nibs. Has anyone had issues using Bilberry with either of these types? If you've used Bilberry without issue, how long did it stay in the pen?

Ok, I need the wisdom of the Sheaffer experts. I came across this while perusing an antique store recently. I did not get it, just took exceedingly crappy cell phone pics: As you can see (I hope anyway, the pictures should be good enough to see this at least), the section is cracked to the point of missing a piece, right where the threads are. Normally I would say that means this pen is toast (at least the nib). But what I don't think can be seen as definitively or easily is that the nib is a stub. I know it is really difficult to remove an inlaid nib, but what are everyone's thought on trying a nib transplant to another pen? since this pen would cost me around $7 or so, I was thinking of trying to find another parts pen to take the nib section from and getting the two switched. Is it worth it?