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Is This Normal On A New M1000?


SnowyZoe

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Congratulations. Not many of us could keep our cool and persevered through all the red tape.

I'm so glad you got your nib replaced and are happy with your pen.

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Next pen, a '50s 14K 400 or 400nn in Oblique. :) B) :P

 

When starting Oblique I always recommend OB....which is 1/2 a width narrower than modern. A writing nib....B-M or M-B....not a signature nib. It is easier to place the nib canted to the paper in the sweet spot is wider.

 

I have some 13-14 semi or maxi-semi-flex pens from that era.

 

The pens have great balance posted...and will not be too short...posted. Light and nimble. :D

 

Why not go all the way to OBBB? :D :D :D

 

Hmm... it seems that i have too much OM and OB already. Still waiting for my Kaweco v16 OBBB from the postman.

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I have a signature pen....just one, a Pelikan 500 and a 30 degree grind BBB in maxi-semi-flex. I would need 3/4ths of a page to write my three letter legal name.

 

A BBBB Manuscript pen....and that is too too wide, I can do headings only with such a wide nib.

 

Fly us......there is a huge difference between semi/maxi-semi-flex OB and or OBB. I lucked out and got them in both @15&30 Degree grinds. (Have that in OM&OF, also.) Those are the Stubbish German nibs...of those flexes; so are very very different than nail, semi-nail or even the noted springy 'true' regular flex W. Germany :( Pelikan nibs.

There is little to no line variation in Oblique in nail, semi-nail or 'true' regular flex.

 

But I recommend the German '50-60's OB in the sweet spot is wide enough one don't need to be so precise as an OM or OF, when learning how to hold and write with stubbish Obliques with a little bit of flex. OB being half a width narrower than modern is still a writing nib......not a signature nib of a modern OB.

 

Which era and pens do you have in OB & OM?

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I have a signature pen....just one, a Pelikan 500 and a 30 degree grind BBB in maxi-semi-flex. I would need 3/4ths of a page to write my three letter legal name.

 

A BBBB Manuscript pen....and that is too too wide, I can do headings only with such a wide nib.

 

Fly us......there is a huge difference between semi/maxi-semi-flex OB and or OBB. I lucked out and got them in both @15&30 Degree grinds. (Have that in OM&OF, also.) Those are the Stubbish German nibs...of those flexes; so are very very different than nail, semi-nail or even the noted springy 'true' regular flex W. Germany :( Pelikan nibs.

There is little to no line variation in Oblique in nail, semi-nail or 'true' regular flex.

 

But I recommend the German '50-60's OB in the sweet spot is wide enough one don't need to be so precise as an OM or OF, when learning how to hold and write with stubbish Obliques with a little bit of flex. OB being half a width narrower than modern is still a writing nib......not a signature nib of a modern OB.

 

Which era and pens do you have in OB & OM?

 

mostly German 50 and 60s with one modern OM from GvFC.

 

From my observation, the GvFC is like an oblique-but-round nib, while the vintage OB and OBBB from Pelikan and Kaweco are stubbed. The vintage nibs require more precise hold in order to give full potential of the nibs. Of course, they come with a bit of flex. I'm not even calling them semi-flex, just springy and give some line variations.

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  • 1 month later...

I had almost the identical issue to the original post. The original photo may have been my actual pen, it was so similar. Brand new Pelikan M1000 with a fine nib. It wrote very, very wet and then would run out of ink after a handful of lines. And yes, as soon as I inked up the pen I found myself testing the flex capabilities.

 

After researching the issue, including this thread, I simply pressed carefully and methodically on the nib and feed between my thumb and fingers. I sometimes used my ink rag to keep from damaging the feed fins. At times I was pressing quite firm.

 

Occasionally I'd turn the nib upside down and apply gentle pressure against a pad of paper. Directly down on the nib, no angle. The top of the nib was parallel to the pad of paper. (I used a pad of paper in order to have a little bit of forgiving cushion.)

 

After a few minutes of this, and trying a couple of different inks, I'm satisfied that I fixed my issue. I think the difference between the pen writing well or not, in cases like this, are a difference of hundredths of a millimeter --so I figured why not just squeeze the two elements together?

 

At times I ask myself: Well, what would a professional do differently than what I can do myself? Sometimes the answer is that it's best I hire a professional; other times I talk myself into fixing it myself.

 

Maybe this will help someone ...at their own risk, of course. :)

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