Pilot Cannot Repair All Of Its Vintage Pens

[zanio]

 

Stan, Thanks so much for your thoughts. Mine does have the gold filled cap. It is in wonderful condition, too. The imprint is crisp and clear: PILOT Super 500 DC 13. Any idea what the DC 13 might mean?

 

If I were to tinker with it in the way you laid out, I would no doubt break it. Unfortunately, I am too uncoordinated to drive a nail straight into a wall.

 

Being a man of deep and abiding faith, I have replaced the pen in its box, but remain hopeful that a solution will present itself one day in the form of a person who magically surfaces with the parts needed, or who is willing to take a chance to proceed in the manner you suggest. With a pen this beautiful, I am bothered to no end that I cannot use it (without getting ink all over my fingers), and my post was motivated by that frustration, especially when, conceptually, the problem is very simple: take out the nib, solder the hairline closed, replace the nib and make sure that ink is not escaping from anywhere else.

Hi, sorry to hear about your problem. Is not uncommon to see cracked Super 500 nibs.

 

This will probably answer your question about the DC13 code.

http://estilofilos.blogspot.jp/2013/09/datation-of-japanese-pens-iii-pilots.html

[sharmon202]

I would not expect a company to be able to fix a pen after 55 years. If they could it would be fantastic but I would not complain if they could not. Great input of ideas though. I am a Pilot fan, your warning does not put me off in the least. Good luck.

[Algester]

I dont think Sailor pen doctors would be any of help either yeah I'll go with stan's advise on this one and research how to extract the nib in the first place but how will the repair go after that is beyond me

[ethernautrix]

I have nothing practical to contribute, but I hope you are able to have the pen repaired. It is beautiful. Good luck.

[stan]

Sorry to hear about all the trouble with this beautiful pen daoud62. I too have run into issues with this pen.

 

A couple of months ago I acquired my Pilot Super 500. The filling system need to be repaired and I was surprised that three well known nibmeisters/pen restorers turned me down as they were unfamiliar with the system.

 

John Mottishaw agreed to give it a go and successfully got it in working order. After running it through a sac of ink I broke it upon cleaning...the tension bar became disconnected from the quarter turn notch knob...back to John and supposedly upon receipt the pen filled properly but he was able to get it to fail on him so he had another go and beefed up the internals a bit...haven't tried the pen yet....but thinking about filling it up soon.

 

If the pen fails on me again I will repair it and put it up for sale...if I can't use the pen I don't want it.

 

It depends on the problem with the filling mechanism.

Often the old sac ossifies and it is difficult to get out the remains.

It could be the internal spring. If so, you will need a functional housing with lever, etc.

You will need to find a Pilot Super 100 to 350, and pull out the filling mechanism. Only caution is the filling mechanism might not fit. It is hit and miss. Been there/Done that.

 

It is a simple fix. Just that these guys are unfamiliar with it.

[stan]

Thanks for your commiseration and sympathy! I am sorry to hear about your problems with the pen. I have the same philosophy: If I can't use the pen, I don't have any use for it.

 

Does your have the sac that comes in a metal tube with a little push button at the bottom? Mine fills flawlessly, and it seems to hold a lot of ink...too bad the ink leaks out onto my finger from the nib. What I have noticed, though, is that on filling it today and writing with it, I noticed that my fingers were getting inked from the left side of the nib unit and hardly at all from the hairline in the back.

 

This usually means the adhesive holding the nib has failed. Likely cause of the nib split was someone pressing down toooooo hard.

[SirVival]

If I understand correctly, the problem for the Pilot people is the lack of a replacement section once they pull the nib.

 

The big guns: Model the section in CAD and have it laser sintered, polished and laquered. The laser sintered part should only run a few $ as it is relatively small. The tricky part will be the CAD file. But if you have a capable service provider they can 3D scan the part and go from there.

 

If you need more details, shoot me a PM!

[daoud62]

I have just seen your message, and appreciate it. I will send you a PM.

If I understand correctly, the problem for the Pilot people is the lack of a replacement section once they pull the nib.

The big guns: Model the section in CAD and have it laser sintered, polished and laquered. The laser sintered part should only run a few $ as it is relatively small. The tricky part will be the CAD file. But if you have a capable service provider they can 3D scan the part and go from there.

If you need more details, shoot me a PM!

[daoud62]

Thanks so much for your help. So, the pen was made at Hiratsuka on March 13, 1964. Fifty years old. Amazing.

 

Hi, sorry to hear about your problem. Is not uncommon to see cracked Super 500 nibs.

 

This will probably answer your question about the DC13 code.

http://estilofilos.blogspot.jp/2013/09/datation-of-japanese-pens-iii-pilots.html

[fountainpagan]

I am sorry about the bad news.

 

Please contact Francis/Fountainbel, the creator of the Bulkfiller. He is an absolut magician. I highly stress you to take contact with him, even if he is in Belgium, not the States. If he cannot repair it he will tell you, but I have seen some of his work on "not reparable" pen which is breathtaking.

[daoud62]

Hi, Can you get me Francis' contact details? Many thanks.

I am sorry about the bad news.

 

Please contact Francis/Fountainbel, the creator of the Bulkfiller. He is an absolut magician. I highly stress you to take contact with him, even if he is in Belgium, not the States. If he cannot repair it he will tell you, but I have seen some of his work on "not reparable" pen which is breathtaking.

[fountainpagan]

He is a mem ber of the forum, his pseudoi is Fountainbel.

 

Here is one of his models, and you can contact him directly

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/248971-conid-bulk-filler-streamline-demonstrator-by-fountainbel/

 

I really hope he can help. Your pen is a real beauty.

[fountainpagan]

Daoud62, please tell us if Francis was able to repair your pen.

And, if so, show us some pictures, pease.

Thank you in advance.

[Ron Z]

Could this not be repaired either by sealing with Captain Tolley's or solvent welded with MEK, acetone or the like?

The crack is in the nib, not the plastic. The nib needs to be gold soldered. I would hesitate to even try to remove the nib. If I did take it off, I wouldn't try to repair it with a torch because the gold is so thin, but would take it to a jeweler to have it laser welded. There are cases where the risks of killing a pen are too great for even an experienced repair person to want to take it on.

[pen2paper]

when it's back in trim, hope to see photos of the results.

Edited November 28, 2014 by pen2paper

[stan]

I repeat myself from page 1 of this discussion. Now that you know the nib can be repaired go to the Jewelry District in NYC.

BTW, no one in Japan does custom made feeds. Been there. 'nuff said.

 

Obtaining a section will cost the same as an entire pen so, that's out of the question.

American pen repairers are lost when it comes to Japanese pens. You might try Mike Matsuyama. He seems to know more than most but, does not do repairs to sections and nibs.

Manufacturing the parts would be cost prohibitive.

What I would do...Assumes current lost cause.

1. Think about how the nib was installed and reverse engineer the process.

2. To me, it looks as if some type of slip fit and held in place with adhesive.

The adhesive is used to prevent ink flow as well as hold on the nib.

It seems similar to the Pilot Custom - why should they re-engineer the wheel.

3. See if you can carefully take it off. Hairdryer. Jewelry and dental tools. Dental floss.

4. Do not use harsh chemicals as they might damage the plastic.

5. Go incredibly slowly so that the nib is not bent. That can be fixed but, why add more complexity.

6. When hot (not hot enough to melt the plastic) try prying the sides of the crack open with an Exacto knife.

7. Keep trying until you can get and edge and slide dental floss beneath the metal.

8. Keep heating and working the floss.

9. The most difficult part is the narrow section that runs up the nib. If possible, I would work on this section last.

10. Keep trying.

Alternate method...similar. It might make the task easier. It might be the way to go should the above not work.

1. The plastics used in 1950s Japan were softer than that used today.

2. Most adhesives have solvents.

3. Get a banged up Super from the era ($40 or so from Yahoo Japan) and experiment with solvents like lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, brake fluid, etc.

4. Try what ever does not damage the pen.