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Heat Setting Nibs/feeds


Guest Ray Cornett

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Random thoughts on combustion.

 

Would expect alcohol to flame around 850. Would expect hydrocarbon wax around 1050 though core flame (oxygen rich zone) to be much hotter at >1250.

 

Carbon soot is the result of poor combustion at the tip of the wick. The wick also adds to the soot.

 

Try burning wax in an oxygen enriched environment. Almost as much fun as hydrogen/oxygen filled balloons.

Noodling around, it appears that type of wax/fuel and position in the flame impact temperature. Average temperature of ethanol flame given is around 1100 F. Average candle flame temperature given ranges from 850 F-1400 F, with average around - 1100 F

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Try burning wax in an oxygen enriched environment. Almost as much fun as hydrogen/oxygen filled balloons.

 

Unless your name is either Grissom, Chaffee or White.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

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  • 2 weeks later...

In the recent interview with Nathan Tardiff and Brian Goulet, they touch on heat setting nibs and the Goulet video of such.

 

Of course Nathan patently ID's himself as a "flame guy". He says her prefers wax or kerosene fuel as the flame areas (and differing temperature zones) are more clearly visible to the eye than with alcohol.

 

Nathan also admits that using hot water is the Safer way to Teach someone how to do a heat set with Less likelihood of damage than with flame.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

Edited by OcalaFlGuy
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  • 1 year later...

The water method worked for me with the ebonite feed from a Ranga Model 5. Before setting the feed was causing the nib (Ambitious 40mm) to splay a bit when fully inserted into the section.

 

30 seconds of the business end of the nib and feed in near boiling water followed by 30 seconds or so of pressing the the two together to get them to mate. Hard to say that the feed changed shape in any way, but when it went back in pen, the splay was basically gone. Pen writes nicely so I count this as a success. No discoloration of the feed that I could see.

 

Thanks for this thread.

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