Jump to content

Best Paper For Fountain Pens


Parker Pen 27

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just thought that it would be interesting for everyone to know about what I've found to be the best papers for writing with fountain pens. The best brand that I've found is TOPS. Particularly GOLD 20lb. paper. The benefit of these is the thickness and density of the paper. The high levels of both of these allow for incredibley smooth writing across the surface.

 

Parker Pen 27

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Saintpaulia

    7

  • lapis

    4

  • Parker Pen 27

    4

  • stefanv

    3

20lb paper is pretty much the standard weight for office paper, so I doubt that the thickness or density of this particular paper is what makes it good for fountain pens. It's more likely to be the paper's finish that's doing it for you.

Stefan Vorkoetter

Visit my collection of fountain pen articles at StefanV.com.

 

A pen from my collection:

spacer.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I prefer a minimum of 90g, because it shades better.

100g-110-120 are good too.

Laser over combo or Ink Jet.

 

But I've gone heavier 150-170g.

 

I have regular copier paper for my copier and scribbling paper for my fountain pens. I want good paper for two toned shading inks.

 

If all you want to use is vivid mono-tone inks you can get by with regular office or even Ink Jet paper.....which I do not use, because it sucks up ink very fast, which would ruin the shading.

The Reality Show is a riveting result of 23% being illiterate, and 60% reading at a 6th grade or lower level.

      Banker's bonuses caused all the inch problems, Metric cures.

Once a bartender, always a bartender.

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20lb paper is pretty much the standard weight for office paper, so I doubt that the thickness or density of this particular paper is what makes it good for fountain pens. It's more likely to be the paper's finish that's doing it for you.

Oh! Thanks, now I know what to look for even more specifically!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20lb paper is pretty much the standard weight for office paper, so I doubt that the thickness or density of this particular paper is what makes it good for fountain pens. It's more likely to be the paper's finish that's doing it for you.

Oh! Thanks, now I know what to look for even more specifically!

I assume there is some equivalency between characterizing a paper as 20 lb. and describing it as 90g/m2.

One appears English old-style and the other metric. How do they relate to each other?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume there is some equivalency between characterizing a paper as 20 lb. and describing it as 90g/m2.

One appears English old-style and the other metric. How do they relate to each other?

 

I don't think there's a relation per se, just two different methods for measuring paper density. The 20 lb is typically used in countries that have local North American paper sizes as the custom. The figure denotes the weight of a standard ream of 500 sheets. The latter is indeed metric and is generally used where-ever the ISO A Series paper sizes prevails.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/606/letterji9.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume there is some equivalency between characterizing a paper as 20 lb. and describing it as 90g/m2.

One appears English old-style and the other metric. How do they relate to each other?

I've been using the conversion chart on this page. For example, a 24 lb paper is about the same weight as a 90 gsm paper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume there is some equivalency between characterizing a paper as 20 lb. and describing it as 90g/m2.

One appears English old-style and the other metric. How do they relate to each other?

 

I don't think there's a relation per se, just two different methods for measuring paper density. The 20 lb is typically used in countries that have local North American paper sizes as the custom. The figure denotes the weight of a standard ream of 500 sheets. The latter is indeed metric and is generally used where-ever the ISO A Series paper sizes prevails.

 

Except a standard ream of 500 sheets of 8.5x11 20lb office paper doesn't weigh 20lb. It is the weight of a stack of 500 sheets of paper at its "basic size", that being the large sheets that are cut down to make the sizes we use. Problem is, the "basic size" varies with the kind of paper, so for instance, an 8.5x11" sheet of 20lb office paper is not the same weight as a same-sized sheet of 20lb card stock.

 

The metric paper weight method is more consistent. It is simply the weight of 1 square metre of the paper in question (i.e. the weight of an A0 sheet), regardless of what kind of paper it is.

 

For office paper, you can convert from lb to g by multiplying by 3.75. So, 20lb paper is equivalent to 75g paper.

Edited by stefanv

Stefan Vorkoetter

Visit my collection of fountain pen articles at StefanV.com.

 

A pen from my collection:

spacer.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Except a standard ream of 500 sheets of 8.5x11 20lb office paper doesn't weigh 20lb. It is the weight of a stack of 500 sheets of paper at its "basic size", that being the large sheets that are cut down to make the sizes we use. Problem is, the "basic size" varies with the kind of paper, so for instance, an 8.5x11" sheet of 20lb office paper is not the same weight as a same-sized sheet of 20lb card stock.

 

The metric paper weight method is more consistent. It is simply the weight of 1 square metre of the paper in question (i.e. the weight of an A0 sheet), regardless of what kind of paper it is.

 

For office paper, you can convert from lb to g by multiplying by 3.75. So, 20lb paper is equivalent to 75g paper.

 

See, that just proves how oblivious I am. :P I've rarely ever dealt with non-ISO paper sizes/densities, but I'm steadily becoming more familiar with them via exposure from FPN. That conversion rule is also really nifty, thanks!

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/606/letterji9.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

pounds 20= 75 g

" 22= 80 g

" 24= 90 g

" 27= 100G

" 28= 105g

" 29= 110g

" 32= 120G

" 60= 163g...I lucked out and found some 150 g and some 170g paper. I liked it a lot...so now consider 120 G as 'medium weight'. :rolleyes:

 

I don't even look at any thing under 90g.

 

If you are into only vivid highly saturated inks, you could perhaps use Ink Jet.

I don't see how a combo Laser and Ink Jet can perform well as Laser, if you like shading in it has to be able to suck up Ink Jet.

I'd am not an expert on that.

 

I do buy laser only if I can't find typewriting paper... ;) right and hens teeth are easier to find. so I use Laser.

 

I have paper for my printer....thin 80g stuff, and 'real' paper for scribbling.

 

I'm sure some one will jump on me for lumping 80g Rhoda with other 80g papers, but it's got good sizing.

 

Once all paper had good sizing, even the cheap stuff...back when folks typed back in the BC. Before Computers or Before Color (TV).

The Reality Show is a riveting result of 23% being illiterate, and 60% reading at a 6th grade or lower level.

      Banker's bonuses caused all the inch problems, Metric cures.

Once a bartender, always a bartender.

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume there is some equivalency between characterizing a paper as 20 lb. and describing it as 90g/m2.

One appears English old-style and the other metric. How do they relate to each other?

I've been using the conversion chart on this page. For example, a 24 lb paper is about the same weight as a 90 gsm paper.

Thanks Essensia, that was just what I was looking for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume there is some equivalency between characterizing a paper as 20 lb. and describing it as 90g/m2.

One appears English old-style and the other metric. How do they relate to each other?

 

I don't think there's a relation per se, just two different methods for measuring paper density. The 20 lb is typically used in countries that have local North American paper sizes as the custom. The figure denotes the weight of a standard ream of 500 sheets. The latter is indeed metric and is generally used where-ever the ISO A Series paper sizes prevails.

 

Except a standard ream of 500 sheets of 8.5x11 20lb office paper doesn't weigh 20lb. It is the weight of a stack of 500 sheets of paper at its "basic size", that being the large sheets that are cut down to make the sizes we use. Problem is, the "basic size" varies with the kind of paper, so for instance, an 8.5x11" sheet of 20lb office paper is not the same weight as a same-sized sheet of 20lb card stock.

 

The metric paper weight method is more consistent. It is simply the weight of 1 square metre of the paper in question (i.e. the weight of an A0 sheet), regardless of what kind of paper it is.

 

For office paper, you can convert from lb to g by multiplying by 3.75. So, 20lb paper is equivalent to 75g paper.

Cool Pilot. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I just thought that it would be interesting for everyone to know about what I've found to be the best papers for writing with fountain pens. The best brand that I've found is TOPS. Particularly GOLD 20lb. paper. The benefit of these is the thickness and density of the paper. The high levels of both of these allow for incredibley smooth writing across the surface.

 

Parker Pen 27

Hi everybody again, I believe I made a mistake with clarity... The paper I'm referring to is lined paper, so it's texture is more lustrous than regular office paper...

Edited by Parker Pen 27
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that info. I've seen that chart before but could not make heads or tails out of it because I am not familiar with the words at the top of the chart, i.e.:

Bond Text Cover Bristol Index

 

Let's say that I found a notebook that says it has 80 lb. paper in it and that the notebook is 8.5" x 11" in dimensions. How do I use that chart to figure out grams/meter-squared?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This journal paper says it is 80 lb. Would that translate, via the multiply by 3.75 rule into 300 g/sm?

http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.ACCT107430/sc.23/category.6757/.f

I hope the link works.

Breck

 

No, because it's a different kind of paper than office paper. The 3.75 rule applies only to "Bond" paper. The journal paper is probably "Offset" paper, for which the multiplier is about 1.48. So the 80lb paper would probably be about 120g.

 

Let's say that I found a notebook that says it has 80 lb. paper in it and that the notebook is 8.5" x 11" in dimensions. How do I use that chart to figure out grams/meter-squared?

 

You need to know what sort of paper it is. If it's a notebook, it's probably bond, ledger, etc. If it's a sketchbook, it's probably offset, book, etc. Then look in the appropriate column of the conversion table.

Edited by stefanv

Stefan Vorkoetter

Visit my collection of fountain pen articles at StefanV.com.

 

A pen from my collection:

spacer.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stefan, I'll have to read up on the differences betw. Bond and Ledger, etc. By the way I have enjoyed immensely your write up remarks on your collection. We have similiar taste, treating an inexpensive pen with the same deference shown to your more expensive ones. Loved your Targas, which is on my "If I ever get enough money" List.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all,

After some more experimentation...In my opinion, the 20 lbs. paper works very well with inky, medium tip fountain pens. However, when using a fine tipped variety, the Docket Tops 16 lbs. paper works the best. Very smooth...

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been searching for a long time for the perfect FP paper. Weight is one factor, but I've determined that just as important is texture and absorbancy. I think that a very smooth texture, and low absorbancy is key. Personal taste, I know, but that's what works best for me.

 

I've used 100g paper that was more absorbent, and experienced moderate bleed-through and echo, where some 80g paper is less absorbent and performs better, in my opinion. For my journal, I absolutely can't have any bleed-through if I'm going to use both sides of the pages.

 

Based on this criteria, my journal of choice is the Clairefontaine Basic Clothbound A4. The 90g paper is a complete joy to write on: smooth and silky, with no feathering, bleed-through, and very little echo. Because the paper is less absorbent, you get nice shading with most inks. I am a big Clairefontaine fan. When they start making the Basic Clothbound with dot-grid paper, I'll be in paper heaven.

 

Clairefontaine Basic Clothbound A4

Edited by EKE

Learning from the past does not mean living in the past.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43972
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      35675
    3. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      31705
    4. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    5. Bo Bo Olson
      Bo Bo Olson
      27747
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Misfit
      Oh to have that translucent pink Prera! @migo984 has the Oeste series named after birds. There is a pink one, so I’m assuming Este is the same pen as Oeste.    Excellent haul. I have some Uniball One P pens. Do you like to use them? I like them enough, but don’t use them too much yet.    Do you or your wife use Travelers Notebooks? Seeing you were at Kyoto, I thought of them as there is a store there. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It's not nearly so thick that I feel it comprises my fine-grained control, the way I feel about the Cross Peerless 125 or some of the high-end TACCIA Urushi pens with cigar-shaped bodies and 18K gold nibs. Why would you expect me or anyone else to make explicit mention of it, if it isn't a travesty or such a disappointment that an owner of the pen would want to bring it to the attention of his/her peers so that they could “learn from his/her mistake” without paying the price?
    • szlovak
      Why nobody says that the section of Tuzu besides triangular shape is quite thick. Honestly it’s the thickest one among my many pens, other thick I own is Noodler’s Ahab. Because of that fat section I feel more control and my handwriting has improved. I can’t say it’s comfortable or uncomfortable, but needs a moment to accommodate. It’s funny because my school years are long over. Besides this pen had horrible F nib. Tines were perfectly aligned but it was so scratchy on left stroke that collecte
    • stylographile
      Awesome! I'm in the process of preparing my bag for our pen meet this weekend and I literally have none of the items you mention!! I'll see if I can find one or two!
    • inkstainedruth
      @asota -- Yeah, I think I have a few rolls in my fridge that are probably 20-30 years old at this point (don't remember now if they are B&W or color film) and don't even really know where to get the film processed, once the drive through kiosks went away....  I just did a quick Google search and (in theory) there was a place the next town over from me -- but got a 404 error message when I tried to click on the link....  Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth 
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...