Jump to content

Which ink for lab notebooks?


inkyfingr

Recommended Posts

Surveying all scientists, engineers, or anyone who uses a fountain pen to make records in a lab notebook...

 

What ink/inks do you like for making records in lab notebooks? Is a bulletproof or similar property important for you?

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 26
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Zoe

    3

  • Tangelfoot

    2

  • RevAaron

    2

  • inkyfingr

    2

Not for me.

 

I work in a Chemical-Intensive environment- keeping all my records in fountain pen- I just use Diamine Turquoise.

 

 

“You either suffer the pain of discipline or you suffer the pain of regret. The difference is discipline weighs in ounces while regret weighs in tons.”

Jim Rohn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use old manhattan black, and bay state blue(Not BP but close enough).

 

The paper in the lab books we use is not FP friendly at all, and almost every other bulletproof ink I have tried feathers like mad. It ends up looking like it was written with a sharpie. Glacier blue doesn't work, Hunter green doesn't work, legal lapis, legal blue, and tahitian pearl are tolerable.

 

Probably not that big of an issue, since I usually keep my lab book at my desk and away from my lab space.

 

Last time I lost any info in a lab book was more than a few years ago when I had inadvertently spilled a bottle of chloroform on it. Luckily it was a small bottle. I was wondering why I started seeing stars and feeling light headed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally used (past tense) a simple Parker with blue ink, but I did find in the bowels of an old monastery (in Italy) a late 19th century journal written with a fountain pen by the resident nuns, and every single word was legible after years of exposure. I do wonder what they used. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally used (past tense) a simple Parker with blue ink, but I did find in the bowels of an old monastery (in Italy) a late 19th century journal written with a fountain pen by the resident nuns, and every single word was legible after years of exposure. I do wonder what they used. :D

Late 19th century nuns in an Italian monastery would almost certainly have used dip pens, and probably an iron-gall ink.

Edited by BillTheEditor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds likely, BillTheEditor. I may pull the journal out and scan a page or two for review. It was a very accidental find in the ruins of the monastery. Dirty, messy but a wonderful treasure trove of antiquity.

 

Zoe

 

I personally used (past tense) a simple Parker with blue ink, but I did find in the bowels of an old monastery (in Italy) a late 19th century journal written with a fountain pen by the resident nuns, and every single word was legible after years of exposure. I do wonder what they used. :D

Late 19th century nuns in an Italian monastery would almost certainly have used dip pens, and probably an iron-gall ink.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Noodler's Polar Blue cut with about 50% distilled water. I find it flows and starts well and does not smudge from a sweaty hand. Noodler's black is permanent of course, but it smudges if rubbed with a sweaty finger.

 

The paper of the lab book is also important for fountain pen use. I've found Eureka Lab Book, Inc. to be the best I've used and now use nothing but - fast drying yet no feather or bleed thru. Most lab books I've seen are not fountain pen friendly and have behaved like superbleu mentions above.

 

I've also found that Baystate Blue works well. I also cut it with distilled water and have not experienced any problems with it in a Safari when cut. It is very fast drying and does not smudge a bit - granted it can be bleached.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally used (past tense) a simple Parker with blue ink, but I did find in the bowels of an old monastery (in Italy) a late 19th century journal written with a fountain pen by the resident nuns, and every single word was legible after years of exposure. I do wonder what they used. :D

I must concur with the dip pen theory. However, I must say that iron gall is questionable. It tends to degrade paper over time, especially when no attempts have been made to preserve the manuscript. If it lasted for that long exposed to the elements, I would guess Indian Ink. The shellac formula is less prone to oxidizing and doesn't damage the paper over time. Either are possible, however, as I haven't seen the condition of the manuscript.

"If I had only known, I would have been a locksmith."

-Albert Einstein

 

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/606/letterji9.png http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5642/postcardde9.png

 

 

BP/Pencil set trade

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noodler's BB and Polar Blue, plus some Baystate as the mood strikes me. Black is required at one job, blue the other (to distinguish original entries).

 

I get some bleed-through in the supplied lab notebook at one job, but not enough to bother, and I've accidentally dropped a record book into a bucket of water once or twice (a lab book must, by definition, be used in a laboratory, eh? -- scraps of paper and transcription of data is expressly forbidden!), but since I was using bulletproofs from Noodler's it's almost impossible to tell from the ink. Pages are all wrinkled now, but the ink is fine.

 

I have had no trouble at all with noodler's black smearing after it dries.

 

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Noodler's Polar Blue cut with about 50% distilled water. I find it flows and starts well and does not smudge from a sweaty hand. Noodler's black is permanent of course, but it smudges if rubbed with a sweaty finger.

 

The paper of the lab book is also important for fountain pen use. I've found Eureka Lab Book, Inc. to be the best I've used and now use nothing but - fast drying yet no feather or bleed thru. Most lab books I've seen are not fountain pen friendly and have behaved like superbleu mentions above.

 

I've also found that Baystate Blue works well. I also cut it with distilled water and have not experienced any problems with it in a Safari when cut. It is very fast drying and does not smudge a bit - granted it can be bleached.

 

I also use the Eureka Lab Notebook and find the same results as you regarding feathering and bleed through. I found these notebooks online one day when I got tired of paying through the nose for the notebooks stocked at the college bookstore. The great thing about these Eureka notebooks is that for a dollar more, you can get them sequentially numbered. It looks much better than the old fashioned sharpie on peeling lab tape on the spine...

 

My experience is that Noodler's black is excellent as a permanent and visible ink in the notebook. Takes a while to dry though and bores the hell out of me. I've been using mostly near-bulletproof inks (such as Noodler's Golden Brown) because of the better color selection. If I drip something in the notebook, it will bleed but still be legible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to take notes and make records for a Natural History Museum that I was working for.

 

We used special museum notebooks along with Rotring Isographs with Rotring India ink. Those notes are supposed to last for at least a couple of hundred years and, once dried, were absolutely water-, alcohol- and formaldehyde-proof.

 

If I was going into a lab now, that is what I would still use.

 

 

 

fpn_1412827311__pg_d_104def64.gif




“Them as can do has to do for them as can’t.


And someone has to speak up for them as has no voices.”


Granny Aching

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Noodler's Bulletproof Black. I don't find that it smears at all, and it writes on all kinds of paper (but I use XF nibs). Bulletproof so it stands a chance against random floods of water (safety shower malfunctions, fire alarms). As some one pointed out before, even inks that disappear at the mention of water are unaffected by organic solvents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Surveying all scientists, engineers, or anyone who uses a fountain pen to make records in a lab notebook...

 

What ink/inks do you like for making records in lab notebooks? Is a bulletproof or similar property important for you?

 

Ballpoint pen or permanently gel. Nothing that can possibly be removed by what it is I am working with. And some lab notebeooks do not take FP ink well.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally used (past tense) a simple Parker with blue ink, but I did find in the bowels of an old monastery (in Italy) a late 19th century journal written with a fountain pen by the resident nuns, and every single word was legible after years of exposure. I do wonder what they used. :D

 

I have found department of mining lab notebooks from the 1940 that looked a perfect match for Skript blue. But I thinking that the paper quality was better so FPs were using

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For lab or field notebooks, I generally stick to bulletproof inks, and only those with only cellulosic dyes in them. I won't use Zhivago, for example, because when you add water the green runs. You get non-cellulosic inks running from a lot of the waterproof and bulletproof Noodlers inks, so I'll stick to Black, HoD, Legal Lapis, or Polar Blue. Not the jazziest of colors, but I don't want jazz in my lab notebook. Which may all be eternal inks? Not sure.

 

Aaron

WTB: Lamy 27 w/ OB/OBB nibs; Pelikan 100 B nib

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It may be that the papers are made differently. I am going to pull out those old journal pages one day soon and refresh my memory about the condition of the journal and the writing sample(s). I may also write a wee bit with a modern ink on one of the pages for a comparison.

 

I personally used (past tense) a simple Parker with blue ink, but I did find in the bowels of an old monastery (in Italy) a late 19th century journal written with a fountain pen by the resident nuns, and every single word was legible after years of exposure. I do wonder what they used. :D

 

I have found department of mining lab notebooks from the 1940 that looked a perfect match for Skript blue. But I thinking that the paper quality was better so FPs were using

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For lab or field notebooks, I generally stick to bulletproof inks, and only those with only cellulosic dyes in them. I won't use Zhivago, for example, because when you add water the green runs. You get non-cellulosic inks running from a lot of the waterproof and bulletproof Noodlers inks, so I'll stick to Black, HoD, Legal Lapis, or Polar Blue.

 

Inks similar to Zhivago are known as "near-bulletproof" but I think this is a misnomer, and that they should be called "partially bulletproof" instead. The bulletproof--as opposed to near-bulletproof--inks in Noodler's line use only cellulose-reactive dyes, as far as I'm aware. Some inks described as "waterproof," such as SwishMix at Swisher Pens, are really just partially bulletproof, while others, such as the non-SwishMix "waterproof" inks from Noodler's at Swisher Pens, are indeed waterproof and bulletproof for that matter.

 

Not the jazziest of colors, but I don't want jazz in my lab notebook. Which may all be eternal inks? Not sure.

 

The inks you mentioned by name are among the strongest of the cellulose-reactive inks from Noodler's. Yes, their strength varies against different chemicals, but all of them resist water and fading. Here are the results of a torture test involving several Noodler's inks as well as many others:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...showtopic=29483

 

As you can see, some of the "eternal" inks can be damaged by bleach, but there's always a remnant left over, and they're stronger than partially-bulletproof inks with regard to maintaining their colors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43972
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      35597
    3. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      31468
    4. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    5. Bo Bo Olson
      Bo Bo Olson
      27747
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Misfit
      Oh to have that translucent pink Prera! @migo984 has the Oeste series named after birds. There is a pink one, so I’m assuming Este is the same pen as Oeste.    Excellent haul. I have some Uniball One P pens. Do you like to use them? I like them enough, but don’t use them too much yet.    Do you or your wife use Travelers Notebooks? Seeing you were at Kyoto, I thought of them as there is a store there. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It's not nearly so thick that I feel it comprises my fine-grained control, the way I feel about the Cross Peerless 125 or some of the high-end TACCIA Urushi pens with cigar-shaped bodies and 18K gold nibs. Why would you expect me or anyone else to make explicit mention of it, if it isn't a travesty or such a disappointment that an owner of the pen would want to bring it to the attention of his/her peers so that they could “learn from his/her mistake” without paying the price?
    • szlovak
      Why nobody says that the section of Tuzu besides triangular shape is quite thick. Honestly it’s the thickest one among my many pens, other thick I own is Noodler’s Ahab. Because of that fat section I feel more control and my handwriting has improved. I can’t say it’s comfortable or uncomfortable, but needs a moment to accommodate. It’s funny because my school years are long over. Besides this pen had horrible F nib. Tines were perfectly aligned but it was so scratchy on left stroke that collecte
    • stylographile
      Awesome! I'm in the process of preparing my bag for our pen meet this weekend and I literally have none of the items you mention!! I'll see if I can find one or two!
    • inkstainedruth
      @asota -- Yeah, I think I have a few rolls in my fridge that are probably 20-30 years old at this point (don't remember now if they are B&W or color film) and don't even really know where to get the film processed, once the drive through kiosks went away....  I just did a quick Google search and (in theory) there was a place the next town over from me -- but got a 404 error message when I tried to click on the link....  Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth 
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...