Imperial Inlaid Nib Creep

[karcirate]

I'm having a problem: My Imperial with inlaid nib is starting to creep in a major way!

 

I leave it for a few hours, lying down or nib up, and there is ink all the way up the nib where my hand would go.

 

I'm using Waterman's South Seas blue.

 

Know why this just started happening or how to fix it?

 

Thanks.

[jp9506]

I'm having a problem: My Imperial with inlaid nib is starting to creep in a major way!

 

I leave it for a few hours, lying down or nib up, and there is ink all the way up the nib where my hand would go.

 

I'm using Waterman's South Seas blue.

 

Know why this just started happening or how to fix it?

 

Thanks.

 

Hi, I have a few Imperials (great pens!) and the only leaking problem I've ever experienced was when leaving the tip in during an upstroke on the plunger...had some ink release in the seam between the feed and barrel. Not sure if this is at all related to your situation. Regards, Jim

[dpmahon]

I'm having a problem: My Imperial with inlaid nib is starting to creep in a major way!

 

I leave it for a few hours, lying down or nib up, and there is ink all the way up the nib where my hand would go.

 

I'm using Waterman's South Seas blue.

 

Know why this just started happening or how to fix it?

 

Thanks.

I have had it too on Imperials, some worse than others.

[Jinnayah]

Maybe an air leak somewhere? If it's a Touchdown, do you know when it was last resacced? If it's a C/C, maybe a bad cart or worn converter?

[Richard]

What you're seeing probably isn't nib creep. I'm guessing that there's a leak between the nib and the shell beneath it. This kind of leak can be sealed, but you have to disassemble the shell unit -- the repair can't be made with the feed in place.

[karcirate]

What you're seeing probably isn't nib creep. I'm guessing that there's a leak between the nib and the shell beneath it. This kind of leak can be sealed, but you have to disassemble the shell unit -- the repair can't be made with the feed in place.

 

 

Is that me-doable? I know I can unscrew the section from the body, but how is the nib/feed attached and will I be able to reattach them without special tools?

 

It is a T/D, in case that makes a different.

[Richard]

Is that me-doable?

It's doable, but it isn't easy. With the shell assembly separated from the barrel, you can pull the sac protector off the sac, then you can remove the sac. This leaves you with the back end of a threaded bushing exposed. This bushing is sealed into the shell with a sealant that doesn't respond well to heat. It does soften a very little, but it's easy to use too much heat, and that will melt the shell. If you're able to unscrew the bushing without either melting or cracking the shell, you can then lift out the clutch ring. This leaves the back end of the feed exposed, sort of secured by an O-ring that's been squished and will be difficult to lift out without damage. With the O-ring out, you can push the feed out backward. This exposes the underside of the nib, and you will be able to seal the joint with something really good like Capt. Tolley's. There are also a couple of points where the nib might have penetrated the shell: these are at the two side corners and at the back end of the vee. You need to ensure that these are sealed as well. Then you can seal the exterior edge between the nib and the shell. If you're using Capt. Tolley's, it'll penetrate for you. If you're using shellac, you'll need to dilute it until it's wet enough to seep into the cracks. When you finish, and after your sealant is fully set, you can reassemble. Use a dab of shellac to seal the bushing back into the shell.

[karcirate]

Wow. I think I got more than I knew was good for me. Thanks for taking the time to type all that out though.

 

I think I'm gonna try the lazy man's route first:

 

Smooth some silicone grease along the nib up to the end of the section.

 

Hope this works and lasts "forever".

 

 

 

Is that me-doable?

It's doable, but it isn't easy. With the shell assembly separated from the barrel, you can pull the sac protector off the sac, then you can remove the sac. This leaves you with the back end of a threaded bushing exposed. This bushing is sealed into the shell with a sealant that doesn't respond well to heat. It does soften a very little, but it's easy to use too much heat, and that will melt the shell. If you're able to unscrew the bushing without either melting or cracking the shell, you can then lift out the clutch ring. This leaves the back end of the feed exposed, sort of secured by an O-ring that's been squished and will be difficult to lift out without damage. With the O-ring out, you can push the feed out backward. This exposes the underside of the nib, and you will be able to seal the joint with something really good like Capt. Tolley's. There are also a couple of points where the nib might have penetrated the shell: these are at the two side corners and at the back end of the vee. You need to ensure that these are sealed as well. Then you can seal the exterior edge between the nib and the shell. If you're using Capt. Tolley's, it'll penetrate for you. If you're using shellac, you'll need to dilute it until it's wet enough to seep into the cracks. When you finish, and after your sealant is fully set, you can reassemble. Use a dab of shellac to seal the bushing back into the shell.