Parker Duofold Nipple

[forumwooster]

Hi folks,

 

I'm considering buying a Parker Duofold  Senior from c 1955. I thought if I got it cheaply and it needed some work, I am handy enough to replace the sac etc, but I'm wondering if I bought one "as found" how likely is it that I might face a soft nipple problem? From what I read, this is a common thing in 51s and it sounds like it might be a professional repair but is that the case with the Duofolds?

 

 

[FarmBoy]

Not a concern. 

[Beechwood]

For the sake of clarity I assume that you mean the UK made Duofold with a squeeze bar filler.

 

I have owned many of these and have never had a problem with the sac or the rest of the filling system.

 

The things I would look out for on a cheaper Duofold are any cracks around the cap lip, the nib should be perfectly smooth in performance and looks. Cap and barrel should be in good order although the plastics responds well to polishing.

 

There are always a large number for sale, pick the best.

[forumwooster]

Thank you both for this information. I take it then that the soft nipple issue is mostly found on the 51 pens. I did recently buy a Duofold Senior in good order and I am thrilled with it. It is a really nice size for my hand and writes very well. I then got the idea of buying one in not such good condition and lovingly restoring it to pristine condition - well at least messing about with it until it wrote well enough! I'm not sure how sensible this idea is but now it's on my mind I'm pretty much guaranteed to follow through with it; I have a horrible feeling that I've opened a box here 😳

[Beechwood]

3 hours ago, forumwooster said:

Thank you both for this information. I take it then that the soft nipple issue is mostly found on the 51 pens. I did recently buy a Duofold Senior in good order and I am thrilled with it. It is a really nice size for my hand and writes very well. I then got the idea of buying one in not such good condition and lovingly restoring it to pristine condition - well at least messing about with it until it wrote well enough! I'm not sure how sensible this idea is but now it's on my mind I'm pretty much guaranteed to follow through with it; I have a horrible feeling that I've opened a box here 😳

 

 

My advice to anyone new to the hobby is to buy the best you can and with the large number of Duofolds out there you can have your pick. 

 

Buying pens with missing parts or in poor condition is a your starting point for pain and suffering, there is enough of that stuff in the world as it is.

[VacNut]

I have to admit I have a bit of “island of misfit toys” syndrome from Rudolf the Red Nose Reindeer Christmas Specials.

There is a smidge of higher satisfaction when returning a pen to working order, rather than unwrapping a restored pen.

[forumwooster]

I'm very fond of the Duofold I already have. It's a lovely pen, is very comfortable, writes beautifully, didn't cost the earth and had been serviced by a reputable dealer before I bought it, so I don't really need another one and this idea of mine is just totally unnecessary. 

 

I take the point that it could all go wrong but I'm not really doing it out of any cost-saving exercise, I'm a tinkerer and I'm just looking to tinker. As I am giving it a try, I thought why not a pen which I'd enjoy using if it works. I am prepared for it to fail and the way the world is at the moment, it wouldn't make me any more anxious than I already am. If it goes wrong then it'll be going to someone who knows what they're doing to fix it for me.

 

 

[Nethermark]

I'm with @VacNut on this one. It's so much more satisfying to restore a pen one self then to just buy one restored. And English Duofolds from the 1950's are a great place to start. They are not too complicated, typically very cheap and at the same time, they are very good writers

[Beechwood]

46 minutes ago, Nethermark said:

I'm with @VacNut on this one. It's so much more satisfying to restore a pen one self then to just buy one restored. And English Duofolds from the 1950's are a great place to start. They are not too complicated, typically very cheap and at the same time, they are very good writers

 

I have been involved with pen repair since the 1970s but I am not sure that I would advocate buying a pen in need of work and/or parts to a beginner, especially cracked plastic, damaged nibs and missing parts

 

But if that is what the OP wishes to try then best of luck to him, as they say C'est a vous.

 

[VacNut]

I guess it is about the end result. What does the collector want in the end? A functional pen? An heirloom? A small sense of accomplishment? That’s what makes this hobby great.

I have never used a safety pen, but I was always fascinated by the mechanics of one. How does one extend a nib and seal the ink chamber by twisting a knob in the early part of the century? Needless to say, there are many in the collection now. 
 

Let’s not discuss the Sheaffer Snorkel Pen…

[Ron Z]

Before I started the pen business I bought pens not so much because I wanted to have a bunch of pens, but so that I could have pens to repair.  I don't have that problem any more.  But I often buy what I know are problem pens just so that I can practice a repair technique, or learn a new procedure.  Granted some are beyond hope, but if the price is right buying a damaged pen to go in the parts bin is never a bad idea.

 

 

[VacNut]

Ron, if you need more practice, I have a few “good” ones…😀😀😀

Want to work on a visofil? How about several of them?

 

[Ron Z]

re. Visofil.  In the wise words of a mechanic I used for years....  "I looked it and what was involved, and decided that was a repair I didn't want to learn how to do."

[FarmBoy]

7 hours ago, VacNut said:

Ron, if you need more practice, I have a few “good” ones…😀😀😀

Want to work on a visofil? How about several of them?

 

 

6 hours ago, Ron Z said:

re. Visofil.  In the wise words of a mechanic I used for years....  "I looked it and what was involved, and decided that was a repair I didn't want to learn how to do."

You two are out there.  For the few people still reading, a picture of the mechanism on a Visofil might be worth while.

[VacNut]

Thanks to Pen Hero for the great write up:

 

https://www.penhero.com/PenGallery/MabieTodd/MabieToddVisofilVT.htm

 

https://www.penhero.com/PenGallery/MabieTodd/MabieToddVisofilSystem.htm

 

I believe there are 2 models of the Swan Visofil Pen from the mid 1930’s to the late-1930’s. It was Swan’s attempt at creating a visible ink view system so users could see if the pen was still inked. The first models had a spring-loaded “transparent” end-sleeve underneath the blind cap. Unlike a Vacumatic (GO VAC!) that had a visible barrel that actually indicated ink capacity, The transparent end-sleeve just indicated whether or not there was ink in the pen. As you can tell from the description, it was not a simple filler system to maintain. The celluloid is typically a marbled non-transparent celluloid in 7-8 assorted colors. 

 

The second model had a transparent barrel near the section, similar to the celluloid of the ONOTO MAGNA and Valentine Pens. The transparent filler was replaced with a spring-loaded end knob that could be secured in place by turning the knob. (Thus eliminating the chance of losing the end cap). As you can see from the Pen Hero Write Up, there are many moving parts that are needed to create an ink-tight seal. (One has to admire the offset filler tube). These pens came in black, ruby, green, and black/silver. Black being the most common (and most commonly sacrificed for parts) and the silver the least common. These pens were unique in that they typically use a Swan #3 nib, instead of the more common #2 or #4 nib.

Besides the multitude of parts, the main difficulty with the Visofil is that a special tool is used to more easily disassemble and re-assemble the pen. It was described to me as a long screwdriver-like device with a hook at the end.(?!?!?).

When he was still regularly repairing pens, Laurence Oldfield was one of the regular technicians in the UK who would work on the pens. I have found another technician willing to work on the pens, but on a case-by-case basis.

 

Common to almost all Swan pens, the pens write smoothly, if you are willing to risk using the fillers. There is also a matching pencil.

Restored pens are commonly above £200-£250. Better condition pens obviously are higher in price. The Visofils have such a troublesome reputation of restoration, that one can find black versions for less than £50.

 

Stephen Hull has a great chapter on these pens in his book. He is readily accessible at the London Pen Show.

 

I will add photos of my collection once I dig them out of storage.

Ron, one last chance on working on the Visofil?!?!