Opening Sheaffer plunger filler

[CVR]

I'm trying to be careful in opening a Sheaffer plunger filler (a Tuckaway).

 

Per Marshall & Oldfield, I should open it up at joint B, since this pen has a longer section. However, I've tried that before with a desk version, with unfortunate results.

 

Should I open it at B (heat it and turn to loosen), or do I open it at A (heat and use the Triumph nib tool)?

 

Advice is most welcome.

 

 

 

 

[Nethermark]

I have only one Tuckaway, and it opened at A

 

See also Richard Binders repair instructions for Sheaffer plunger fillers, which is more detailed than Marshall and Oldfield: http://www.richardspens.com/ref/repair/plunger.htm 

[CVR]

Yes, that was precisely what prompted my question. Binder's instructions and those of Marshall & Oldfield do not appear to be fully consistent.

 

Binder implies that all Triumph nib pens open at A. Marshall and Oldfield, on the other hand, are clear that the section length determines where the pen opens. Both the pens in their illustration have Triumph nibs.

 

The pen can certainly be opened at A, but does it have to be? That's riskier, and I'd like to avoid doing that, if possible.

 

The pen clearly opened at B during assembly, when the metal ring to engage the cap threads was put on. However, the pen may have then been glued together.

 

The one and only time I tried to open at B, following Marshall & Oldfield, ended in a disaster.

 

Should I just bite the bullet and open at A?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ralfstc]

This is very interesting! I think the current approach is to open them all at the nib using Francis'/Pentooling's super-dooper tools (which work like magic, btw). It would be interesting to know of an alternative, but I thought the sections were pretty well glued on there . . . .

[Ron Z]

There are two versions of the pen.  Before 1946 or so the section was fused to the barrel, and ink was held directly in the barrel, the pen was celluloid.  By 1947 the pen was Forticel, and it had the combined filler/section insert.

 

It is true that you should go in form the front end, removing the nib unit and replacing the packing material from the inside, regardless which one  you have.  If the section does not unscrew with a little heat, then assume it isn't supposed to come out.  If it does come out though, it's easier to see what you're doing when you drill out the inside of the packing unit.

 

Dale Beebe bought the rights to make Francis Goosen's nib removal tool.  I won't try to remove one without the tool.  He also sells a drill guide that I designed  (RZ B)and gave him that keeps the drill centered and protects the threads as you drill out the inside end of the packing unit. He also sells a tool (the RZ) that makes it very easy to install the 0-ring and retaining washer.  I don't get anything from the sales BTW - but I wanted folks to have access to them, and Dale undertook production of them.

[CVR]

Thanks for that insight, Ron. So, we should expect the section to be fused to the barrel if there is no ink chamber insert.

 

What Marshall & Oldfield say seems very misleading. Long sections don't always unscrew at the ring joint from the barrel. The only unscrew from the ink chamber insert, in pens where there is one.

 

I do have the tools from Dale Beebe, so I'll go ahead and work on removing the nib unit. Working as carefully as I can!

[ralfstc]

+1. Thanks Ron.

[Ron Z]

On 5/7/2024 at 7:29 PM, CVR said:

So, we should expect the section to be fused to the barrel if there is no ink chamber insert.

 

Yes.  And I will admit that sometimes it can be difficult to figure out which version it is. But most of the time the inserts come out quite easily.

BTW, I use a small infrared non-contact thermometer when I take the nib out.  Some sneer at the idea, but you need to warm the section to about 160F and keep it there long enough that the heat softens the thread sealant inside.  Use of the thermometer helps me to insure that the temperature gets to where it needs to be without going much above that. 

 

Don't try to get the nib to come out now.  Warm the section and keep tabs on the temperature.  Persistent, gentle pressure will eventually loosen the nib.  Once it shifts you're on your way. It almost feels like the section is sheering off.    You may have to warm the section a couple more times after it shifts, but once lose it will come out.  I find that pressing the removal tool firmly onto the nib helps to keep it from shifting.

 

Once out of the section, do not pull the nib out of the removal too.  The nib could separate from the threads.  Loosen the screw that holds the key in place, and pressing on both sides of the nib push it out. 

[CVR]

Thanks again, Ron. Great suggestions.

 

I've tried to use an IR thermometer (I have one made by Etekcity), but the readings seem rather dependent on the section material, its color, texture, the distance from which we take the reading, etc.

 

It's of course not supposed to be that way, so I need to figure out what I might be doing incorrectly.

 

 

[Ron Z]

I hold the thermometer right up to the area I'm heating.

[CVR]

Thanks, Ron. Holding it closer to the section might ensure that there aren't other things in the measurement cone besides the section.

 

I use the IR thermometer for other work (checking HVAC/attic temperatures, etc.), so I know it works fine.

[ralfstc]

My IR thermometer has a truly sci-fi feature-- a laser pointer that shows where it's measuring. It would be really helpful if it wasn't for the fact that it doesn't point to the right place. I could use it to amuse the cat if I had one . . . .

 

But a thermometer is really useful. I was surprised to see how much temperatures varied even when I thought I'd done the same thing to the pen I was working on as I had before.

 

I find the ones with the interior ink capsule slightly harder to get a good seal on. I has one recently with an invisible leak near where the capsule joined the section. That took a moment or two to figure out!

 

I have a few repaired by Ron and Gerry and they are amazing. I don't think I've managed to do one myself as well as they do them. Respect.

 

Best,

 

Ralf

 

 

[CVR]

Well, when you've restored a thousand or two... 😄

 

Yes my thermometer has a laser beam too, which could be out of alignment. The specs say that the distance/spot ratio is 12:1, meaning that the measurement cone spreads out at a 12:1 ratio. So, it measures a region 1" in diameter when held 12" from it. That's roughly a 5-degree angle for the cone apex, in planar cross section.

 

Holding it right up close to the section would clearly help, since we want to sense a much smaller region on the section.

[Ron Z]

Mine is quite small, with an opening that's about 1/4" in diameter.  A little larger than a Zippo lighter.    I hold it almost up against the barrel below the section for readings.

[siamackz]

I was struggling myself only last week with the same issue. I referred to the same book and was equally confused. Took me two days of soaking and gentle heat to realize that the pen you have with the longer section opens at the area just BELOW the metal ring (while I was heating the area above the ring). But the threads are at the area just below the ring (towards the barrel) and so the shellac needs to be softened there. This is how I opened two of these guys last week. 

[CVR]

Good to know it worked for you! Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to be consistent.

 

Here's a picture of a long-sectioned plunger I broke trying to open as Marshall & Oldfield recommend, heating below the ring.

 

It's illuminated from the inside. As we can see, there are no threads for the section to screw into. It's fused into the barrel, and sheared off just under the ring.