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Pilot CH 912 Falcon nib bleeding on Leuchturm


monologion

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A couple of days ago I received my Pilot Custom Heritage 912 with Falcon nib. It doesn't seem to suffer from skippings or hard starts but it does seem too wet to me. On Rhodia paper it works fine, although it takes quite a while to dry. I used a Hiroshizuku Shin-Kai ink. The problem is that on Leuchturm notebook paper it produces an unpleasant bleeding. Is this ink too wet? Would this problem improve with an ebonite feeder? Has this happened to anyone?
Thanks

 

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Sounds like the need for either a dryer ink, or a test run on different paper.

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The FA nib is a flex nib, and therefore an extremely wet writer.  An ebonite feed would make things worse.  You can try a dryer ink.  I've found iron-galls to work pretty well in mine.  

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8 hours ago, monologion said:

I used a Hiroshizuku Shin-Kai ink. The problem is that on Leuchturm notebook paper it produces an unpleasant bleeding. Is this ink too wet?

 

I don't know. Do you get the same degree of bleeding using that ink on that paper with a different pen, say one of these?

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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Thank you for your suggestions. I have indeed tried Waterman black ink and the bleeding on the Leuchturm paper has disappeared. The problem does not occur on the Rhodia paper, which is more glossy, but only on the Leuchturm notebook.

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6 minutes ago, monologion said:

I have indeed tried Waterman black ink

 

In the FA-nibbed Pilot Custom Heritage 912?

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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Waterman black is still a very wet ink.

 

If you're running into bleeding issues, think Pelikan 4001.

 

Also be aware that pretty much any coated paper that isn't Tomoe River will have little missed spots in the coating and you'll just occasionally run into a spot where no matter what ink you're using, it's gonna feather. 

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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Thanks again; I thought Waterman was among the more or less dry inks.The surprising thing is that I have used with this CH912-FA inks like Waterman black, Montblanc Mystery Black or Iroshizuku Asa-Gao and none of them bleeds on Leuchturm paper. I don't know what to think; the Leuchturm paper is not as satiny as Rhodia but it still works very well with the inks and pens I have used, such as Robert Oster, Edelstein, Aurora black or Lamy Crystal. Maybe it's just this pen-ink-paper combo!!!

 

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On 5/2/2021 at 1:58 AM, Daosus said:

An ebonite feed would make things worse.

 

 

Hmm. Better!

Works on Stalogy and Tomoe and Clairefontaine for me.

Add lightness and simplicate.

 

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8 hours ago, monologion said:

I don't know what to think; the Leuchturm paper is not as satiny as Rhodia but it still works very well with the inks and pens I have used,

 

Again, try writing in Pilot Iroshizuku shin-kai ink in your Leuchtturm1917 notebook with a different pen, to see if the pen variable only plays a small (or no) part in the pen-ink-paper combo in causing the apparent bleed-through.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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