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Organics Studio Nitrogen Ink


NeverTapOut

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Does any use Organics Studio Nitrogen ink or any other of the high sheen inks by Organics Studio?

If so what pen did you use and where there any negative effects?

I was thinking of using a MontBlanc. I think it would be very hard to clean out however Goulet Pens said it was safe. I don't feel 100% with that answer.

Regards,

David

Edited by JesusNeverTappedOut
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Believe Goulet. They have nothing to gain by deceiving you.

I use Nitrogen in a Conid without issue.

Add lightness and simplicate.

 

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It's safe, but may be a little stubborn when it comes to cleaning it out. Like the Diamine sheentastic (or whatever they are called) it is a concentrated ink to create that level of sheen so will have a tendency to dry out on the nib. If you have a pen with an inner sealing cap (such as the Platinum 3776) that should avoid dry out issues. I don't think Nitrogen stains, but I'd double check by reading a few reviews. You don't want it staining the MB ink window.

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Believe Goulet. They have nothing to gain by deceiving you.

I use Nitrogen in a Conid without issue.

 

Karmachanic,

When you clean the pen do you take it apart or just do a flush with cold water until all ink is expelled?

I believe the Conid can be taken apart.

Thanks,

David

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I've been using Organics Studio Nitrogen in my Pilot Metropolitan for the last two months, and I've never had any trouble with, apart from the occasional hard start.

I have cleaned the pen once, and I can assure you, it's going to take 5x the time it takes to clean normal inks, but it can be done.

This is one of those inks that's a 'must-have' if you like fun inks.

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Karmachanic,

When you clean the pen do you take it apart or just do a flush with cold water until all ink is expelled?

I believe the Conid can be taken apart.

Thanks,

David

 

Flush it a couple of times with the syring/piston - room temp water. Then I remove the nib, flush the barrel with water and bulb syringe. Flush the housing/feed/nib with said syringe. Then leave the housing/feed/nib to soak in room temp water for several hours to leach out any residual ink between the top of the nib and the housing.

Add lightness and simplicate.

 

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Flush it a couple of times with the syring/piston - room temp water. Then I remove the nib, flush the barrel with water and bulb syringe. Flush the housing/feed/nib with said syringe. Then leave the housing/feed/nib to soak in room temp water for several hours to leach out any residual ink between the top of the nib and the housing.

 

That's the problem with 149's...you can take them apart like a TWSBI...well you can if you buy the tools...then you have to trust yourself that your not going to crack the "precious" resin. I have a CC pen I might use or buy a Franklin Christoph.

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I've not used Nitrogen, but I've used Walden Pond Blue, which is also more sheen than base color. No issues with any pen, just takes a while to flush out due to the extremely high concentration of the ink. Don't use these inks in piston fillers or other types of fountain pens with filling mechanisms that are difficult to clean out or take significant mechanical wear if you are going to do lots of repeated flushing. Converter-filled or eyedropper pens would be best for these inks.

 

Something to keep in mind for these highly sheening inks--at least Walden Pond Blue--is that they take FOREVER to fully dry in the spots that are highly sheening; even when dried those metallic looking letters can smear with a finger, if the paper is held in such a way that your fingers can touch the writing.

Edited by Intensity

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

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I've not used Nitrogen, but I've used Walden Pond Blue, which is also more sheen than base color. No issues with any pen, just takes a while to flush out due to the extremely high concentration of the ink. Don't use these inks in piston fillers or other types of fountain pens with filling mechanisms that are difficult to clean out or take significant mechanical wear if you are going to do lots of repeated flushing. Converter-filled or eyedropper pens would be best for these inks.

 

Something to keep in mind for these highly sheening inks--at least Walden Pond Blue--is that they take FOREVER to fully dry in the spots that are highly sheening; even when dried those metallic looking letters can smear with a finger, if the paper is held in such a way that your fingers can touch the writing.

 

This sums up these inks very well. In addition to using the ink in cartridge/converter pens, make sure the cap creates an airtight seal or you'll get hard starts. This probably means only screw caps or slip caps that create a great seal (many screw and slip caps don't).

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Pelikan should be ideal as it can be cleaned thoroughly and they seal very well.

I have a sacrificial one for such tasks, no ink has posed an issue yet. Some just take a bit longer to clean.

Edited by 1nkulus

Engineer :

Someone who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data provided by those of questionable knowledge.

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Flush it a couple of times with the syring/piston - room temp water. Then I remove the nib, flush the barrel with water and bulb syringe. Flush the housing/feed/nib with said syringe. Then leave the housing/feed/nib to soak in room temp water for several hours to leach out any residual ink between the top of the nib and the housing.

+1

 

It has worked a charm every time, so far. The same process for new pens too. thumbup.gif

Engineer :

Someone who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data provided by those of questionable knowledge.

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1nkulus, Mulrich, Intensity, and Karmachanic,

I agree with everything you say. I also know about the potential for hard starts and the drying/smearing issues. I also heard if if get a small dried speckle of ink on your hand and your hand get wet the ink gets on everything. In you opinion if you had to do it all over again knowing what you know now...with the ink being high maintenance would you buy it again? Is it really worth it? Or am I better of buying a bottle of Akkerman Shocking Blue...that offers some sheen but is not a novelty ink like this? The problem is this ink really intrigues me...but is it worth it.

Much Respect,

David

Edited by JesusNeverTappedOut
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These inks are, relatively speaking, inexpensive and are a lot of fun. It's true that the ink dries out in the cap/bottle threads a bit, and then when you open and close the bottle, little concentrated specs of it land around the bottle, which can then smear significantly when washed. So I'd recommend to simply either open/close the bottle on a paper towel or on a surface you can wash afterwards. It's really not that bad at all.

 

With that said, I've recently gotten my first bottle of sheening Krishna ink : Vaikhari, and I love it! It does sheen very heavily, especially with my new flexy pen -- FPR Himalaya with Ultraflex nib. The difference between the Krishna ink and Organics Studio formulation seems to be that Krishna has some kind of a thickener agent. The ink does not smear where it sheened, but it also has a slightly gritty texture. You can move your finger along the paper surface and clearly feel the ink lines, especially the sheening areas. It's also not as insanely saturated, while still managing to offer a lot of sheen.

 

I have yet to see the long-term performance of Vaikhari by Krishna--whether it will cling to the feed when washing the pen--but it's still easy enough to dedicate more easily washable pens to it.

 

While Organics Studio takes the sheen to the max, Krishna seems to get you about 70-80% there. If you're after sheen, I recommend trying both. For a darker blue, but with beautiful copper sheen, I have Krishna Christmas Eve on order, and also plan to get green sheening purple Anokhi.

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

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These inks are, relatively speaking, inexpensive and are a lot of fun. It's true that the ink dries out in the cap/bottle threads a bit, and then when you open and close the bottle, little concentrated specs of it land around the bottle, which can then smear significantly when washed. So I'd recommend to simply either open/close the bottle on a paper towel or on a surface you can wash afterwards. It's really not that bad at all.

 

With that said, I've recently gotten my first bottle of sheening Krishna ink : Vaikhari, and I love it! It does sheen very heavily, especially with my new flexy pen -- FPR Himalaya with Ultraflex nib. The difference between the Krishna ink and Organics Studio formulation seems to be that Krishna has some kind of a thickener agent. The ink does not smear where it sheened, but it also has a slightly gritty texture. You can move your finger along the paper surface and clearly feel the ink lines, especially the sheening areas. It's also not as insanely saturated, while still managing to offer a lot of sheen.

 

I have yet to see the long-term performance of Vaikhari by Krishna--whether it will cling to the feed when washing the pen--but it's still easy enough to dedicate more easily washable pens to it.

 

While Organics Studio takes the sheen to the max, Krishna seems to get you about 70-80% there. If you're after sheen, I recommend trying both. For a darker blue, but with beautiful copper sheen, I have Krishna Christmas Eve on order, and also plan to get green sheening purple Anokhi.

 

Did you order the Organics Studio from Vanness Pens. Lisa the owner said is you dilute the ink 8 parts Ink to 1 part distilled water a lot of the problems will go way...it will still sheen...just not as much. You should try a fill like that and see what happens. I have heard of Krishna...I never looked into them...I'll have to do that tonight. Oh...mountainofink.com has good ink reviews. Thanks.

David

Edited by JesusNeverTappedOut
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I think it was Vannes for Organics Studio, close to 2 years ago. Thanks for the pointer about dilution.

 

Krishna is new to the USA market, though already being offered by a few on-line stores, such as PenChalet and InkJournal.com.

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

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Pelikan should be ideal as it can be cleaned thoroughly and they seal very well.

I have a sacrificial one for such tasks, no ink has posed an issue yet. Some just take a bit longer to clean.

The caps on my M800s have a tendency of loosening on their own, especially when in a shirt pocket. I think Sailor caps probably offer the best seal of my pens (others are also good but Sailor is probably the best).

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1nkulus, Mulrich, Intensity, and Karmachanic,

I agree with everything you say. I also know about the potential for hard starts and the drying/smearing issues. I also heard if if get a small dried speckle of ink on your hand and your hand get wet the ink gets on everything. In you opinion if you had to do it all over again knowing what you know now...with the ink being high maintenance would you buy it again? Is it really worth it? Or am I better of buying a bottle of Akkerman Shocking Blue...that offers some sheen but is not a novelty ink like this? The problem is this ink really intrigues me...but is it worth it.

Much Respect,

David

 

There several red sheening blue inks out there. This is the most outrageous. Give it a go. Then try Diamine Maureen. Then try Robert Oster Fire and Ice. Then try Jalur Gemilang. Ohhh, look! Blue inks that colour shade turquoise!. First try.......

 

35 inks later :D

Edited by Karmachanic

Add lightness and simplicate.

 

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There several red sheening blue inks out there. This is the most outrageous. Give it a go. Then try Diamine Maureen. Then try Robert Oster Fire and Ice. Then try Jalur Gemilang. Ohhh, look! Blue inks that colour shade turquoise!. First try.......

 

35 inks later biggrin.png

 

Pretty much the start of every journey down the rabbit hole. laugh.png Soon enough you see yourself as the neighborhood ink supplier.

Hang on, now that you have started out on this journey, why not include pens, pencils and paper too.

 

I am convinced, FPN stands for 'Friendly Pen & Paraphernalia Nuisance'.

Edited by 1nkulus

Engineer :

Someone who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data provided by those of questionable knowledge.

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Fire and Ice is my favorite vibrant tealy blue, but it barely sheens. I would not consider it if a lot of sheen is desired.

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

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Pretty much the start of every journey down the rabbit hole. laugh.png Soon enough you see yourself as the neighborhood ink supplier.

Hang on, now that you have started out on this journey, why not include pens, pencils and paper too.

 

I am convinced, FPN stands for 'Friendly Pen & Paraphernalia Nuisance'.

 

1nkulus...you know I do mine in private...inks come to house...pens come to office...this keeps everyone happy...and everyone off my trail. I really am Breaking Bad...I think really do need help : )

 

I will say this...I do practice restraint now and stick to a the formula that works for me...only took 10 plus years and a big purge.

Edited by JesusNeverTappedOut
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