Another Victim Of The Omniflex Nib?

[Eric2018]

Duraflex by Conklin

 

I bought it from Singapore for months already, the pen is wonderful in looking, big size, all black with rose gold details, affordable, and limited edition with individual number engraved on the barrel... Oh wow, you name it, it has it.

 

I finally use the pen days ago, using Iroshuzuku Murasaki-Shikibu (a wonderful purple colour).

I have the pen flushed before using, and yes, within 20 minutes, I regret it. Very disappointed.

 

As mentioned on many forums around, hard start problem appears as frequent as it can and it rails even not pressing hard for some line variations. I could withstand the rail problem as I can use it as a normal pen and not pressing it. But the hard start thing.....uuuuug.

 

T_T

 

The pen needs to break in? or that's the way of the omniflex nib?

or other kind of ink may help?

 

Guys, anything I can do?

Please share your opinions. Thanks

[FarmBoy]

Ive seen several of these omnied to the point the nib is lifting off the feed. A little nib work can put them straight.

Edited October 2, 2018 by FarmBoy

[PurplePlum]

Oh dear, I have a Conklin Duragraph with an omniflex nib arriving today. Fingers crossed it will be okay.

[Eric2018]

Another thing, when on reverse writing, the nib is totally normal every time to provide fine lines without any hard start problem.

 

But it hard start like hell all the time, in nearly word by word basis....

 

omg, this nib is driving me crazy.

 

 

possible to change another fro Conklin?? ( just fear to have another similar hard starter.)

[TSherbs]

I consider Iroshizuku inks dry. Try a wetter ink, also.

[akrohn2010]

I never had a problem with my modern Conklins hard starting when I used their standard nibs - I'd guess the Omniflex is to blame. A replacement #6 nib is always an option too.

[Honeybadgers]

sorry to disappoint you guys but the omniflex is absolute trash. Don't flex it beyond a Medium or broad, or it WILL spring. it's made from garbage pot metal. You also need to make sure the nib tines touch just at the tip on flexible nibs. if the tines have any gap at all at the tip, it'll hard start.

 

It's also possible the polish sucks and it has baby's bottom. These nibs are (bleep).

 

The #5 omniflex is a different story. it's quite firm, but flexes nicely and doesn't seem to suck.

Edited October 2, 2018 by Honeybadgers

[PurplePlum]

What pen does the no5 omniflex nib come on?

 

If I don't get on with the nib and ask the retailer to swap it for another, say a fine or medium, are the non flex nibs okay in your opinion?

[Eric2018]

I never had a problem with my modern Conklins hard starting when I used their standard nibs - I'd guess the Omniflex is to blame. A replacement #6 nib is always an option too.

Hi flyingpenman, Tks for your sharing. It is a good to change the nib as I’m totally frustrated for that Omiflex nib....

 

Which #6 nib I could go for?

I saw Gouletpens selling Edison #6 nib which is quite nice. Is it compatible?

And Cultpens selling a Conklin nib, guess not #6.

 

Any idea?

[Driften]

Hi flyingpenman, Tks for your sharing. It is a good to change the nib as I’m totally frustrated for that Omiflex nib....

 

Which #6 nib I could go for?

I saw Gouletpens selling Edison #6 nib which is quite nice. Is it compatible?

And Cultpens selling a Conklin nib, guess not #6.

 

Any idea?

 

 

You can use #6 Bock or Jowo nibs, but not the nib units. Conklin uses a different thread setup then anybody else. Just pull the nib out of the housing and push in the replacement bare nib.

[Honeybadgers]

What pen does the no5 omniflex nib come on?

 

If I don't get on with the nib and ask the retailer to swap it for another, say a fine or medium, are the non flex nibs okay in your opinion?

 

The non-flex nibs are a LITTLE spotty on the quality control, sometimes they need a little smoothing, but on the whole I find conklin's regular old find nib to be very good. It doesn't have that deliberate feedback tuned into a REALLY good steel nib like faber castell, but they're still good, wet writers and the crescent cutout actually makes them quite bouncy and they can genuinely flex about as far as the omniflex does without springing.

 

I have a conklin fine in my nozac and it's just fine. I have a conklin fine in my monteverde invincia (for some reason after I returned it for work, they sent me an invincia with a conklin nib) and it's great too (though the black coating is chipping off) and a conklin omniflex that came in my all american that I took out and never use.

 

The #5 omniflex comes as an option with the monteverde monza. the monza is a badly made pen, so far no problems with this one, but it's literally just a jinhao 992 and prone to cracking very, very easily, often while sitting in a drawer and not being touched (not kidding)

 

Edited October 3, 2018 by Honeybadgers

[Eric2018]

 

 

You can use #6 Bock or Jowo nibs, but not the nib units. Conklin uses a different thread setup then anybody else. Just pull the nib out of the housing and push in the replacement bare nib.

 

 

 

thanks, Driften,

 

yet it sounds dangerous for me to dissemble things, I may choose to get a normal Conklin stub nib from cult pens.

 

Anyone has experience on the Conklin stub nib? how it performs?

[BaronWulfraed]

The #5 omniflex comes as an option with the monteverde monza. the monza is a badly made pen, so far no problems with this one, but it's literally just a jinhao 992 and prone to cracking very, very easily, often while sitting in a drawer and not being touched (not kidding)

 

Now you tell me!

 

Mine supposedly shipped last night.

 

Granted, I'm not expecting much -- it was just to see what the nib was like, and I wasn't going to pay the higher Conklin prices for a novelty nib (speaking of which, I still have to Dremel the spare nib(s) for the Noodlers -- as the stock "flex" nib feels stiffer than the nib of a Sheaffer Intrigue ) And I have a 15 year old Nozac that needs to have a bent gold nib straightened.

[PurplePlum]

The non-flex nibs are a LITTLE spotty on the quality control, sometimes they need a little smoothing, but on the whole I find conklin's regular old find nib to be very good. It doesn't have that deliberate feedback tuned into a REALLY good steel nib like faber castell, but they're still good, wet writers and the crescent cutout actually makes them quite bouncy and they can genuinely flex about as far as the omniflex does without springing.

 

I have a conklin fine in my nozac and it's just fine. I have a conklin fine in my monteverde invincia (for some reason after I returned it for work, they sent me an invincia with a conklin nib) and it's great too (though the black coating is chipping off) and a conklin omniflex that came in my all american that I took out and never use.

 

The #5 omniflex comes as an option with the monteverde monza. the monza is a badly made pen, so far no problems with this one, but it's literally just a jinhao 992 and prone to cracking very, very easily, often while sitting in a drawer and not being touched (not kidding)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnvwftWhEdQ&t=19s

Thanks Honeybadgers, you gave me lots of info there. My Conklin is still in transit apparently so will get my hands on it soon enough.

[Eric2018]

An update for my "wonderful" Omiflex nib...

 

I just try the nib, after a night being untouched, and I find the HARD START problem is totally disappeared !!!

Now, the nib, doesn't start AT ALL. The HARD START problem is gone, now the problem is........ NO START !!!

(as mentioned before, even now, when in reverse writing, the nib is normal to provide fine lines without delay.... what is the problem it could be??)

[PurplePlum]

Do you have the black nib or the SS one?

 

I ask because if SS you could try putting the nib in a cup and pour over boiling water. Let it sit for a bit the then tryagain.

 

I say this because it worked on a noodlers nib, and I just did it on a TWSBI Eco stub I received in the post today. The Eco is now working properly just a tad on the dry side. It had isssues out of the box though which this solved.

[Eric2018]

I have the black nib.

 

Oh, heat set is also good for plastic feed? and why only SS and not black?

anyway.... I'll try.... as nothing could be worst anymore... lol.

 

Thanks, PurplePlum.

Edited October 3, 2018 by TeeTee

[PurplePlum]

Can the nib not pull out of the section, or is it one piece? I thought it could come out. I wasn’t on about heat setting.

 

I probably wouldn’t boil the black nib personally. Maybe it would be fine I don’t know haven’t tried.

[Eric2018]

I've got no idea what to do for the Omiflex nib, and thinking of buying a stub nib from Goulet.... anyway, Goulet always provides wonderful and informative service and advice, thanks.

 

In front of the desk light, I find out this, would it be the cause of the NO START or HARD START problem?

 

Two tines are far far away, and end up with the ink that cannot be transported to the tip?

anyone any idea????

 

pls help.

 

[jekostas]

I've got no idea what to do for the Omiflex nib, and thinking of buying a stub nib from Goulet.... anyway, Goulet always provides wonderful and informative service and advice, thanks.

 

In front of the desk light, I find out this, would it be the cause of the NO START or HARD START problem?

 

Two tines are far far away, and end up with the ink that cannot be transported to the tip?

anyone any idea????

 

pls help.

 

 

 

Yes, this would certainly explain the nib not writing. For capillary flow to happen, the nib slit needs to taper slightly from the base (or breathing hole) towards the tipping. If you imagine the nib slit as a triangle, it should look like a very long isosceles triangle with the narrowest point at the tipping. If slit is straight, it won't write reliably. If the slit is spread outwards, it won't write at all.

 

You normally see this in instances where the nib has been sprung. Given how crappy Conklin's #6 Omniflex nibs are, it's not that surprising that it's happened to you.

Edited October 4, 2018 by jekostas